My entire life I've been a major DIY enthusiast, who happens to work in an office day-to-day!
As a family we have bought a 1930's semi which needs a lot of modernising, updating and fixing. We have recently done a loft conversion and are starting a ground floor extension and two storey side extension.
Subscribe to see progress updates of the build, as well as "how-to" style videos and tips.
I'm binge watching your videos but don't want to cheat and look ahead...just wondering how you were planning to get to the party wall to finish it with all that bamboo and the hedgerow there?
In Australia we are still stuck with single glazed windows or spend AU$25-50k on replacing with double glazing (the cost of replacing one’s bathroom or a mid range secondhand car) and triple glazing isn’t even an option 😭😭😭
Hello, I have a horizontal pipe as well. Do you think I can still install a wall hung Grohe? Can you share link for the 90 degree bend pipe from wherr you bought it? Also, which Grohe frame is this?
I am writing to express my dissatisfaction with the recent flooring installation in my home. People need to know what and oft does occur. The 2 man team 1st installed a 1/4" subfloor, securing it with an excessive number of staples to lessen numerous squeaks in an old 1933 home. But the staples were not sufficiently embedded, leading to a less than satisfactory finish on the top surface of the subfloor which translated to my expensive Karndean vinyl flooring. The result was a top visible surface marred by hundreds possibly thousands of staple imprints, some of which are easily seen from the top, because they actually hammered on top of the finished vinyl floor HARD for any and all raised staples... instead of taking the time to lift the flexible vinyl plank, hammer, then relay the plank so as not to damage it. They also glued the entire floor because that is what they said is best even though only the outside perimeter is required. The financial implications of this project were significant. The flooring cost $4300, and the new subfloor added another $800. With labor costs included, the total expenditure was approximately $9300. To add to the frustration, the supplier ordered an incorrect stair nose, ($60.00) which was incompatible with this Karndean Loose lay & I learned a stair nose is not even made for this style later after calling Karndean. I had to insist on a refund for this error from the inept supplier separate from the 2 flooring "experts". Regrettably, the lack of care and attention to detail extended beyond the flooring. The two-man team left my freshly painted walls damaged with countless (100's) handprints, gouges, dents, and black marks. This required additional work on my part to rectify once they had finally left. Despite the challenges, I felt fortunate to have even found someone to undertake the flooring installation, given the current shortage of skilled labor. However, the experience has left me disillusioned. The reality of home renovations, as I have discovered, is far removed from the transformations depicted on popular television shows like HGTV. While I considered reporting these issues to the Better Business Bureau, I decided against it to avoid further complications. Instead, I have chosen to accept the situation and move forward. However, I find it difficult to recommend any renovation services based on my experience. The industry appears to be dominated by individuals who lack professionalism and respect for their clients’ homes. Whether it’s due to substance abuse, lack of experience, or sheer greed, the quality of work leaves much to be desired. As customers, we seem to be at the mercy of these individuals who are well aware of their leverage in the current market. In conclusion, I hope my experience serves as a cautionary tale for others considering similar projects. It’s crucial to thoroughly vet potential contractors and demand the highest standards of workmanship and professionalism. But if you become desperate as I did... 🙄
Starter watching your channel recently. Great info and great effort. You probably now it by now but to save working time on Chem resin is to wrap the tip in cling film which will stop the air getting into it and won’t set hard so quick 👍🏼
This is why in my 1890's house I've had lime render and plaster on the external hall wall.. plasterboard would just be a nightmare as it's just utterly out.Poor bathroom installer ignored me and insisted on all plasterboard ( not just the shower) and it almost broke the guy. I AM going to plasterboard the ' lean to' because I've run out of cash so thanks for this as it helps me see it's possible
Incorrect. The problem was a leaking pipe, which we fixed by replacing it with plastic. We haven't finished the job yet, that is true, but we weren't going to dig up the whole drive in order to do that yet, not until we redo the whole driveway.
I designed and manufacture this valve, its available in Black / White / Grey / and Olive Grey. Its available in both and internal version and an external version which has a fly screen.
We are allowed to because that is the case in our area... it's not always the case though, so you need to speak to whichever company is responsible for your waste water
Just come across this video as currently searching some options for plasterboarding our oak stair case! … desperate to see how you finished the awkward corner bit under the stairs, have you any photos/videos pleaseeeee?! 😂
Oh it is very tricky! I don't have any resources for you yet, but will try to describe it...! You need to use strips of batten/wood to span across the corner bits, as much as you can, to provide something to attach chicken mesh to. You ultimately want to create a form web that the plaster can stick to, so doing a few layers of mesh going in opposite directions, which are stapled in place to hold them steady. It's also worth putting some insulation under the battens and mesh, to reduce noise! Best of luck 🤞
12mm cement board/render carrier board. Normally the sheets come in standard 8'-4' sheets (2440x1220 in metric). Often they will have little polystyrene balls in them to reduce weight and increase insulation value.
Hi there great video. Can I ask you a question please? If you surveyed a possible customers bathroom for a tray, how do you find out which way the joists are running etc?
It can be very hard if there is flooring down covering the original boards, but there are often clues (screw heads, nails etc. running in the same direction). Also, if it's a terraced or semi detached house, the joists typically run front to back, because they are set into the brick work, and noise and fire could travel along the joists to the neighbours property if they ran the other way. In all other instances, the joists generally run in whichever direction is the shortest span. Floorboards always run perpendicular to joists. I hope that helps, and it's not any one set rule sadly, every builder does it slightly differently! Best of luck.
I had a soil vent pipe going up into my roof and out ceiling but had a bathroom renovation done and the plumber removed the pipe - cut it to a short length capped it and boxed it in. Since then I was noticing my washing machine not draining properly and dishwasher not rinsing. A different plumber said he thinks it’s because the air is getting trapped which would have normally escaped via the soil pipe?
Yes that could be a slight clogging in the drains...it could all be linked - without enough airflow, bits may get blocked, which leads to more gurgling.
I have 11sq metre area of patio that needs repointing. Would appreciate recommendation of quickest and easiest way of doing it please. I am not concerned that it lasts for many years just that it looks better now.
Very interesting because my memories of my father doing some bits in the 60s or 70s was a very messy job with sticky wet stuff all over. I have a vast patio area most of which needs redoing - sigh.....
Just a question on when you said the intumescent strip needs to be on the fire side. That’s fine when the door opens into the garage however if there is a step down into the garage the door needs to pull towards you as there is a step / trip hazard. The strip is then not on the fire side, but I can see the logic for both , not sure if there is a right or wrong ?
Hmmm good point - honestly not sure...it's conventional for doors to open into a room, so that you aren't having to walk backwards before walking forwards into a room, so I just followed that 🤔
