Hello RU-vids! The videos on this channel are not meant to be how-tos or tutorials. They are merely meant to chronicle my journey through various projects. Enjoy....
Nice job on your assembly table. Forget about the mistakes. They are inconsequential and you no doubt learned something from them. And, that's the main thing. Best to you.
I don’t recall what size the drill bit was…I closely matched the holes already in the frame. The idea wasn’t to make the holes larger in diameter but elongate them side to side. As for the screws, I reused the original screws. Hope that helps.
Edit: sorry I thought this question was on another video. I used the screws the client provided, which I think were the original screws from the sewing machine.
Nice build. I enjoy when creators leave in the mistakes. Really makes the average person wanting to try making something for the first time more comfortable with the idea that sometimes, we all mess up.
Nicely done! I could appreciate the conflicting emotions about not getting the centering right. To just move on or redo? I liked your solution! The cutouts make for a nice touch!
Thanks. No i don't. I do sand them with #150 though, just to take some of the roughness off, but far from smooth...in fact i try to keep as much rustic charm (saw marks etc) on them as possible.
Thanks for your project video. I have looked at a few and have decided that yours will come closest to satisfy my upcoming jig. Others used the same slot in the cross member for the clamps to hold the jigs angle and the hold-down clamps both. The separate methods I think will work better for me. Some use the rip fence to hold the jig the proper distance from the blade. We'll see how this works. I still don't know if the miter slot or the rip fence is the better choice. The idea of the zero clearance at the cutting edge is usually only temporary for the miter slot but setting the rip fence precisely every time is usually a unnecessarily tedious process. Joel
@@saschawerks Sennheiser at $129 would be top of the line. Then you have Rode at $71, then you can go all the way down to the generic Chinese brands at about $5 to $7. Yeah, they are that cheap. All of them work, but the cheaper you go, the thinner the wire is, so the strain relief points will eventually fail, plus the cord gets a lot shorter. And they don't sound as good, a little bit "cardboard boxy" if that makes any sense. So it depends if you want something that will last one year, or 20 years. I'd watch a bunch of RU-vid review videos and try a few cheap ones out. If you like them, keep them. If not, send them back and upgrade to the next higher level. That is the best thing about Amazon is the returns are super easy and you can try out dozens of things until you find exactly the right one.
further to my question abt the proportion of the flag, I have another question if you dont mind. Im going to make a flag for my office It will be 12"x24" - how do you determine the size of the maple leaf for the flag.
I took an image of the flag and scaled it to the size that I was making. This can be done a number of ways, depending on how tech savvy you are and what programs you have at your disposal. I don't recall which program I used, might have been sketchup or even just MSPaint. Just for reference, I sell a small, medium and large version of the flag and for the small size I make, which is 22" x 11", the maple leaf measures 8 11/16" tall. Hope that helps.
Glidden premium satin exterior latex in “red geranium” from HD seemed a close match. This size flag is 44” x 22”, I also make them in 28” x 14” and 22” x 11”. I made the stencil myself. Printed it out on paper (over 4 pages for that particular size) , taped the pages together and cut it out and then traced that onto the 1/4” hardboard and then proceeded to cut that out with a jig saw and refined it by sanding until I was happy with it. Hope that answers your questions.
being a canuck and I make signs - I was thinking of making a Canadian Flag for my office. Can you tell me what the proportions of red sections are to the middle white section. Burt
The official ratio is 2 to 1 for overall size. So the flag should be twice as wide as it is tall and the breakdown for the coloured section is 25% red 50% white 25% red of the overall width. Hope that helps.
@@saschawerks thank you for the reply much appreciated when I make one Im going to put my name and regimental number on it and then attach a police insignia on top of the maple leaf
Thanks for your question. With 6 screws from the back. You can see it @ 10:21. EDIT: here's a better view: i.etsystatic.com/26266692/r/il/4f20de/2996552945/il_1140xN.2996552945_amuw.jpg
Wow man, real nice. Is it possible to use wood from a used pallet to do this? Gotta have one of these for my entrance and would love to get rid of some of these pallets in my backyard
Thank you. I don't see why not. The great thing about making anything rustic is that it doesn't have to be perfect. Might just have to adjust the size, depending on how wide the pallet slats are. The official ratio should be 1 to 2...i.e. the flag should be twice as wide as it is high and the red/white/red should be 25%/50%/25% of the width. Hope that helps.
Looks fantastic! A few questions? What type of wood did you use? (1x6?). Where did you get leaf template and what material is your mock up made of? Thanks
Thanks. As mentioned in this video's description above, I sell these flags at my Etsy store: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/saschawerks I make 2 different styles (painted as shown in the video and charred). I offer 2 sizes. A small one (11"x22") and a large one, which is the one shown in the video, 22" x 44". Yes the wood is kiln dried SPF 1x6. The leaf template I made myself. I simply took a Canadian flag, scaled it to the size i wanted and printed out just the leaf (over 4 pages). I then pasted the pages together and cut out the leaf, traced it onto ¼" hardboard and cut it out. Hope that answers all your questions.
