Spot on about putting 21mm bolt in first. I bought the moog parts. IMO I think to save urself headache and fight replace the sway bar clamps and bolts. After fighting that first 18mm one I just cut them and replaced them only you have to get the parts from ford. Thanks for excellent video!
Pinned by Keep It Simple Idea Guy @keepitsimpleideaguy8676 any idea what the part numbers are on the 2 rear bolts that hold the control arm as well as the sway bar mount? Mine were all corroded from michigan winters (thank god they didn't break but I definitely do not want to re-use the 4 bolts.
The first attempt failed due to lack of patience. Second attempt worked great! Set the soldering iron to 600 F / 315 C for PLA and cut filament on a slant. Thanks. BTW I have a drawer full of useless gadgets.
Thanks for posting this. I have been looking for an inexpensive way to splice filament for ages and this is by far the best I have seen. It took me a few tries to get it right, but once I did it was easy. I spliced 5 rolls of filament together last night alone and there is enough tubing in this pack to last me almost a life time at the rate I print stuff. This is great! Thanks for sharing.
This is GREAT ! Wasted $10 on that metal gadget. A one inch piece of that silicon tubing should be included with every roll of filament and a link to this video!
Genius! Worked first try for me also after trying several other methods without success. I combined 8 partial spools into one today! The tubing I used was 1/16" x 3/32".
I've tried this and it works well except that the joint becomes very hard and won't always pass through the extruder, leading to interrupted prints. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a solution?
Saw this video and thought I would give it a go... Ordered the 1.6mm ID - 3.2mm OD (1/16 ID - 1/8 OD imperial) silcone tubing and tried it out... Worked every time, first attempt, without any post prep... Using a 'jet flame' lighter as I didn't have a soldering iron to hand, but worked just as well... Thanks for the video!
How about applying some oil or heat-resistant silicone grease to the filament? This would make it easier to thread from both sides and you could possibly pull out the connected part without cutting it open. I would also prefer a cheap heat gun for warming up. The dealer with the capital A sells such devices for as little as 10 - 15 Dollars/Euros.
You don't want oil or silicone grease all over the filament thats going through your extruder. Also nobody wants to sit there sliding a tiny piece of tubing off a long piece of filament they just joined. To save that little piece of tube.
@@bowl1820 Well, the lubricant can also be wiped off again after fusing. I agree with you about pulling through. Stupid idea, sorry 🙄 It's still a waste of material (silicone tube), but even better than throwing away unused filament.
Cool! How did you coordinate the machine movement with the time lapse? It looks like the print head never moves, but the bed slowly lowers during the time lapse sequence.
Had this code come up and found your video. Worked perfect after cleaning the wire harness as you described. Appreciate you making this video. Thumbs up applied.