Really appreciate your effort in making this video. I happen to come across it because I am doing the same job. Wondering if I can pull that shaft without removing the bell housing off the engine? If I pull the seals and snap rings can I just pull the shaft out?
The outer seal was mounted correctly and not upside down in the first place. the way it ha been fitted in this video is incorrect , if / when the bellows fail any water will go to the bearings
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
Hey Eddie i came across your vids today and i'm enjoying your Lancer rebuild. i Also have a '73. Midnight Blue! I bought it this summer from a gentleman in MI. He and his dad restored it 8 years ago. Although the motor and Volvo drive is original and has been rebuilt, its pretty slow. 25 cruise/30 top. i was wondering what you powered yours with?
you might have the wrong prop on her... tell me what you have on engine size, is it a sturn drive or inboard? maybe I can help. I put in a Very low hours mercruiser 5.7L but I rebuilt it myself and now instead of 260hp I have around 390hp with a Volvo Penta aq290a duo prop. she going to run fast.I also have a 454 block that i'm going to put in her later on I have a lot of Volvo penta outdrive parts if you need anything, I have 2- 270 drives 3- 280 drives and one extra 290 duo prop drive its a labor of love brother. send me a pic of your boat. at Coastalmaintenance1@gmail.com i'd love to see it...
hi great video. I have a question I have a 1991 Larson san marino 26ft boat. its got a 350 chevy engine with a Volvo Penta 290 outdrive. the gimble bearing has exploded. can the gimble bearing be replaced from the back of the boat by removing the outdrive? please let me know . thank you.
@@halfwayhousegarage2959 It depends which bellhousing you got, there's one with 2 bearings and this one in the video with just 1 bearing, the one with 2 bearings you need to take the engine out. Because the outer bearing you take out the direction against the sterndrive. The inner bearing you take out in the direction towards the engine!
Im going to start completing it soon meaning the end of hurricane season. I live in south florida. love to see your boat send me a pic Coastalmaintenance1@gmail.com
These are nothing more than Industry Standard bearings, and can be purchased from any good bearing supplier. Double bearing PDS requires a 6026 and a 6007. Single bearing PDS requires a 6206-2RS sealed bearing. No Chinese bearings.... use US, Japanese or German, etc.
@@eddiegiovanniello4346 how can i send you pics? Email? what about the mainstringers ... are they made from wood or is it just laminate filled wth some pu foam???
Just found your videosand really enjoying them, does the Awlgrip manufacture kinda give you guide lines of what PSI to spray these primers and paints at?? YESSS boatworks today is a freaking awsome channel indeed, I just found him a couple days ago.
Rule of thumb on your spray gun never go over 20 lb I tend to keep mine around 13 lb to 15lbs also before you spray pull the trigger back a hair just to get air out put your hand in front of your gun going closer slow where the air is coming as soon as you feel a wall of air on your hand that's the distance that gun should be to what your painting
@@eddiegiovanniello4346 awesome thanks for the tip, Do you have any good videos you can share with me from others you have learned on youtube or is your background in painting? I did look you up on facebook and the pictures there of this paint job was freaking unbelievable of how much of shine you got, no paint booth just under a tent in the back yard, absolutely amazing the quality you can get.
Guys....it's a good video. Stop arguing the toss over terminology. It's shaped like a bell. Every couple of years I strip this and change the bearings / seals etc. I always forget which way the shaft comes out. For or aft and belting the shaft the wrong way is going to be expensive. It's a good clear video which reminds us of what's going on in there. Thanks very much
The later GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the single bearing PDS) does not require engine removal. You will remove the transmission only..... not the entire stern drive. The earlier GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the double bearing PDS) does require engine removal in order to gain access to the front of the PDS. The flywheel covers for the Ford 335 series engines will be a single bearing PDS w/ the pilot nose. Again, you will remove the transmission only for this work.
So can you change these without pulling out the engine and flywheel cover? Can it be accessed from the leg by pulling out the upper drive and uni joint bellow?
ya hey thanks you put on a good show mine I took the snap ring out and drove out the seal undamaged (dead blow and block of wood) took a few taps don't hit it hard no corrosion in mine ya the seal numbers on yours would and bearing #'s on yours woulda been interesting sometimes those housings are savable with the bearing numbers rusted off and thanks for this video
FYI.... this component is a Flywheel Cover..... ( Bellhousing in the automotive world ) Also, this is NOT a 290 Flywheel Cover! The 290 Flywheel Cover was equipped with a Double Bearing PDS, and also a grease port for lubricating these bearings in the future. The 290 Flywheel Cover will accept the GM 153 tooth flywheel and the small Volvo Penta flywheel only. The one being shown is a later model single bearing PDS Flywheel Cover that accepts the 168 tooth flywheel. Most likely from a SP-C or DP-C drive. The shaft that he shows us is a PDS.... (primary drive shaft) He is also showing a 6206 bearing, of which is an open bearing. However, this F/C is not equipped with a grease port, so a 6206-2RS sealed bearing must be used. At 3:13 into the video he shows the AFT seal. Since this Flywheel Cover does not offer a grease port, the AFT seal can be installed in the conventional direction. However, for any F/C that offers serviceable PDS bearings, the AFT seal will install in the "non-conventional" direction to ensure that it may breach excessive grease gun pressure and/or volume. Use a good high pressure bearing grease. The Marine grease is inferior for this purpose. Just a heads up and FYI for you guys .
Eddie, all due respect to you and no offense intended........ this Volvo Penta part is a "Flywheel Cover". Bellhousing is an Automotive term. The GM V-8 engine flywheel cover for the 290 stern drive dates back earlier. One change that was made would be that the AFT end PDS splines changed from course to fine. The 290 F/C will house a 153 tooth ring gear flywheel ONLY. The F/C shown in the video is a later unit (not a 290). It will house both the 153 and 168 tooth ring gear flywheel.
A 290 Volvo Penta bellhousing only has one bearing a 280-270-260 has two bearings unless you have a small diameter flywheel for the older 350 5.7 liter engines this bellhousing is for a pre Vortec and Vortec engines 1996 and up till they ended the series and came out with the SX
Good info I’m working on one now and I used the chisel by mistake so wish I’d seen this first. I’m actually making a video also..... What kind of boat are you working on? I’ve got a 1996 24 Albemarle.
Only the V6 and V8 bell housings that take the 14 inch flywheel have the single bearing assembly which makes the job a piece of cake........The other bell housings that take the 12 inch flywheel has two sets of bearings. I'm surprised you didn't show the removal of the bearing from the shaft.......A press comes in very handy on that one. All snap rings go in before the last seal is installed. Not sure if you have recently heard but the reason some people install that last outer seal backwards is there are some online chat forums that recommend doing so to help stop water from getting in better opposed to the conventional installation method. The trim cylinders seals are set up that way which is probably why that recommendation came up. Doesn't matter either way as replacing the bellow once it shows signs of age keeps the assembly nice and try. Once water gets in the u-joints are the first to be attacked and if those come apart due to neglect it could wipe out the bell housing.
fin screenname marine grease is very important, it resists moisture so it won't break down especially when that shaft is spinning at a extremely fast rate it heats up and when that happens it creates moisture that's why its important to use a hi-temp marine grease
Hey buddy yeh its a labor of love but it will be worth it oh and yes you can fit a big block easy in this boat just make sure your outdrive can handle it,, ill post more videos on the reconstruction in going to do the painting and the floor next.. if you any suggestions or ideas im all eyes
Eddie Giovanniello I've done a floor and a paint job. (Imron) here's a link to the floor project www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1232449869/Work+continues+-+New+Floor Here's a windshield resto project www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1264855941/Assembly+of+Windshields Eric
