@KentuckyWoodsman yes sir it was a fantastic day. We were hoping to catch some big cats between the dams but just didn't have the time to anchor up for long. Great stretch of river. Thanks for watching!
Gonna tackle section 6 in a couple weeks. Hoping to build on what I learned about the video creation from this one. It's definitely harder than it looks. Thanks for watching!
I own this pistol and it’s been in the safe for nearly 40 years. Bought it from my dad and it has maybe 200 rounds through it over the years. I used it recently in my safety training session for my concealed carry permit. I’d like to use it as concealed carry but having difficulty finding a good carry holster for it. Any suggestions on where I can find a holster for it for both open carry and concealed carry situations?
It's a made in USA 1911 design pistol. I'm sure there's no problem carrying cocked and locked, condition 1. I'm considering buying one this weekend for my CCW.
You sure helped me understand how to do this.. I got one of these a while ago, and shit it first time last week. Great little piece and very accurate!!! Thanks again, great job on the video!
Just got home with the gun. The weapon is supposed to be mid 1970s (post 1976 based on paperwork in the original box) and family history from the previous owner) and the number engraved on the slide and receiver is 97. That didn't make sense when compared to how long the family said they owned the gun. So I wondered if it could be something other than the date of manufacture. Then it hit me that the number could be a bench notation from the factory. In glassmaking a decanter and stopper each have a matching number engraved on them since the bottle and stopper are custom ground to match each other. The stopper from one bottle will not fit another bottle as well. So are there custom milled portions of the slide and the receiver that are milled to match that specific weapon? Slide #97 fits receiver #97 better than any other receiver.
Just about to buy one of these cool old gems this afternoon. Inspecting the gun let me know I'm going to be in for a treat. The gun was so stiff the magazine release wouldn't. I finally got it out and cleared the weapon, but it's been so long since it was put away. I feel like I'm going to have to strip down the slide and receiver to clean and oil everything before I'll be able to trust the weapon to fire reliably. Do you have a video for doing a deeper cleaning on this one. I've stripped down many 1911 style weapons to this level, but not down to the component parts.
Thanks for taking the time to prepare and post these two videos. Part 2 was particularly helpful to me in reassembling this little demon. I'm a bit of a gun enthusiast, and as such, I really like it when I stumble into gun "oddities". That's how I would classify this little pistol. My wife's mother recently passed away, and we found one of these little FI Industries Model D pistols buried deep in her closet. I have to say, it's a fun little trinket to play around with, but it's super finnicky with ammo, jams with almost every bullet type (blunt nose, Defender, hollow point, etc.), so I certainly wouldn't trust my life (or my wife's life) on it. I own some of the finest 1911-type semi-autos ever made, and the truth is, they can ALL be problematic at times, whereas revolvers? Not so much. Yes, they're a tad less concealable, and yes, you get fewer rounds with revolvers, but I've yet to have one jam, I can fire virtually ANY type or brand of ammo with them, and most importantly, I shoot FAR more accurately with them. For example, an 8-shot, Taurus 942M (22 mag), can easily replace this thing, with equal fire power and far greater reliability.
As you may already know, this is made by Star in Spain and based on the Star DK. Also Iver Johnson sold a version of it. Colt was going to make them but backed out of the deal. It is an old design and was really never made for anything other than FMJ ball rounds. I have one that is very rusted and pitted. But inside everything is fine. I bought it just for parts but I have changed my mind and I am keeping the ugly duckling
Just purchased an FI mod D at an auction for $407. It was very dirty so your video was a big help, thanks. Mine is blued not stainless like yours, with silver F I Industries medallions on both grips. Also, my recoil spring is captured on the guide rod, doesn't come off like yours. Mine has a 16 etched on the slide and frame in the same locations as your 78 etching, so that may not be date of manufacture. I use a piece of rod with a rubber mocap to compress the magazine spring and clean inside with a long Q-tip. Now I'm ready to try it out! Thanks again for your help.
The "little ring" as you call it is the toggle that engages the lugs on the barrel into the grooves on underside of the slide to lock the breech when the pistol goes into battery just before firing.
First video I've watched concerning the takedown of the the Ruger 10/22. Looks a little more involved than an AR-15 in terms of springs / parts. Looking forward to watching Part II. Nice vid! Thanks for posting!
Very good. After going to the range with my 4th 10/22, I could not believe the trigger pull. It came out of the box with a 9lb. trigger pull!. Within 15 minutes later I had changed the trigger assembly with a new Volquartsen unit that I had yet to fire. I with a small amount of polishing the replacement I now have the trigger pull down to a comfortable 2 and 1/2 pounds. Now it's time to buy another one. Great kits!! You have it down to a tee.. Great Vid.
+M. Bowman I found this if you wanna give it a go: books.google.com/books?id=YYQC7ukSMKcC&pg=PA426&lpg=PA426&dq=iver+johnson+pony+disassembly&source=bl&ots=PjJa1fbIUE&sig=A-LCbmlwEZu6fuCYmKDToFmI1TA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwif4M321MvLAhUB1B4KHe0DCoAQ6AEIPzAJ#v=onepage&q=iver%20johnson%20pony%20disassembly&f=false
Thank you so much, just received a year 74 model of same pistol today and would not have know that had you not mentioned the engraving. I followed step by step with you(sans the grease) and it looks and feels new. Going to have it inspected before firing but should not be a problem as gun is in very good condition Thank you again, looking forward to getting to the range....
the pins on my reciever holding the trigger assembely wont come out, iv tryed and they just wont budge for me... how would i fix that? because im trying to install the auto bolt release.
I have a Iver Johnson Pony .380 model just like the FI you have although mine is an 80's model.Great instructional video never disassembled one before and this video was a great help.You should do more videos!!
Just did the VQ Target hammer upgrade, with your help. I appreciate you showing the whole thing. You made it very easy for me to do. And the upgrade was WELL worth the $35 I paid. Great bang for the buck. Thanks again.
Great video--wish you had been around twenty years ago when I shot springs all over my living room--LOL Your cheater pins are a great help for those of us with hands like apes.
Just answered my own question. That pin backs up the small spring that sits in the groove to return the firing pin backwards. Things can be a little confusing on your first try at this.
Question. My bolt has a very small additional pin opposite the side of the extractor on the bolt and I gave the bolt a few taps to move the pin out so I could grab it and remove it. When I removed the small pin I heard what sounded like a spring moving forward inside somewhere and now the stupid pin won't go back in. This pin is not even in any of the parts diagrams from the ruger website or the manual it came with. What do I do now?
