I’ve been here for about 12 years now. Really, why’s that? Did you grow up in Ireland or England? To be honest, I’m trying to get out of London and more into the county country side over here!!

Have a load of them but rarely use them!! You know how it goes…we use these things when it becomes a problem 👍🏽

😂 same country as you by the looks of it 😂 good old Ireland boy 🇮🇪

@@KeepitBigBore great stuff brother haha I am mad into these engine swaps and I’ll live through your videos until I pull the trigger myself 😅 I’m looking into this swap for a Land Rover 80

🤣 you should go for it, you’ll have it done before you know it makes it a completely different machine. Caught many o people off guard over here in London 😂 If I were to do it again I’d go with the newer m57N’s and a bmw transmission, possibly 6 speed auto or preferably 8 speed both would ideally have to be the 4 wheel drive transmissions as the available adaptors bolt up to them a lot better than the 2 wheel drive transmissions.

@@KeepitBigBore yeah I am gonna go for the 8hp AWD transmission as it’ll make it a nicer daily, nice videos brother, keep em coming, cook to see a mixed Irish lad doing exactly what I’m into haha, niche market for it

Thankyou very much. Best of luck with it, will be a beauty once done!! You’re into my videos and I’m into yours, the similarities go beyond land rovers!! Definitely without a doubt a lot of truth behind what you’re talking about!! I’ll keep in touch on Instagram 👍🏽👍🏽

Thankyou very much mate, yes it’s surprising how much a spring pass or even a few spring passes can remove. It’s hard to demonstrate to people who may not have much experience in machining just how hard it can be to remove that final 0.005mm. @14:25 I had to do a spring pass a couple of times to hit the final dimension. Thanks for your comment!!

Thank you!

Thank you mate. Unfortunately, the Land Rover is sold. The only project I’m focusing on right now is my unimog restoration which may not be as popular as the m57 swaps.. only time will tell!!

Hi mate, this one uses a cable with a small lever which I normally mount on the clutch lever side. It’s a short lever that tucks away nicely beside the stop button. You could mount the small lever anywhere you want really. Puts button ones can be used also. I don’t do too many these days but I charged in the region of GBP £125 for the last one I done. Kind Regards Martin

@@KeepitBigBore ok. Sounds good. I'll think about it. Mike

It’s worth noting as well that some people have used the little push button decompressors on the side of the cylinder head on these bikes, I tried to avoid it purely because I wanted to keep people’s fingers out of the hot fins but it’s That type would be a LOT cheaper to do as it’s just simply drilled and tapped with no welding so it comes down to what people prefer. All that being said, there’s a good chance you’ll find someone in Australia to this for you as the shipping involved from you to me and back would be crazy.

I agree, you hit the nail on the head! Growing up I was always told that 1) stick is the stronger than mug with the right man on the stinger. 2) mig is the fastest and still strong enough for anything most of us will weld and if you need more strength put another pass on it. 3) tig is the most versatile, cleanest and on par or stronger than stick but also the slowest. Stick welding is hugely underrated like you said, I can rock up and quickly weld together old rusty tubes like this without setting up gas bottles or worrying about wind, cleanliness a clean area to set up the wire feeder or mig welder. I am really impressed with the little machine. It’s back in my workshop at the moment and set up with argoshield and a 0.6mm wire for doing the body work and doors on this machine, loving it so far!!

Thankyou very much!! Will do 👌🏽

😂😂 same, I’m actually looking forward to cutting out the rust and welding in the new panels. Will be my first time doing body work other than welding sheets over rust to stop a draft 😂 I seen some cab tilting brackets a while ago alright and I’m definitely going to do something to make this cab easier and safer to tilt in future, I might not make the original brackets unless they’re already a good design? I never checked to be honest, I’ll have a look in the next video and see what type of filter is in there, I assumed and have been thinking this whole time it was an oil filter.

@@KeepitBigBore lol steering over rust 🤣 was that a landy by any chance 🤪. Just make sure the box section that runs round the bottom of the cab is sound, that’s is structural box lol. There’s 2 types of tilt brackets, one is a bit of flat steel with a bolt on the end (bit nice but easier to explain) and the other that yours should have are like a clamp… funny enough I’ve a set still 🤦‍♂️ I could be wrong but looks a big air and can’t remember what air mushroom you have. It’s been 7yrs since I’ve looked at one😆. Paper ones are usually on snowblowers over here or stuff that’s not in dusty environments

The box section underneath is all sound, it’s structurally a very sound cab in fairness. I’ll probably take the liberty to add some bits to it as well as I’m sure there will be other things I’ll want in or on the cab in future. I’ve never been one to restore things to factory spec, some people hate when you deviate or change anything when restoring but I like to add things and modernise where possible. Basically it’s just the front wings/corners, the rear wall and floors! Famous last words eh 😬😬

@@KeepitBigBore 😆 unfortunately I like my stuff original or a sleeper lol. If you do take some stuff off, keep it if it’s not screwed… the money in that mog with be rebuilt engine and she’s an early mog. I’m glad the cabs decent, usually the crap gets in between the skin and the box and destroys it all🤦‍♂️

Sorry man, I never got back to you about this! I don’t think there is much on it that will come off but I will definitely keep it. I’ll try remember to do a good Waldrons off the cab in the next body work video and show you the bottom!

That’s actually really nice to hear 🥹

Hi mate, Thankyou for very much. So the bronze I have used isn’t a phosphorus bronze it’s LG2 bronze. The original factory bushings seem to be some form of leaded bronze also but I can’t say for sure. What I can say is the custom made bushing that was in that rod from the previous rebuilder was the only one of all 6 that was still within spec, all others had become oval due to combustion. That was most definitely an off the shelf bronze and I’m fairly confident it was leaded instead of phosphorus. The “feel” I got from boring the LG2 bronze in comparison to the factory bushings also gave me the impression that the LG2 would withstand a lot more abuse than the “sheet rolled” factory bushings. At the end of the day however, it’s all theoretical until this engine has been put through its paces 😂 only time will tell for sure. I wanted to try the lg2 bronze as I’ve heard of it being used for custom small end bushings and bushings in general before, I could have just ordered a new rod for £100 but I’d never get a solid confirmation on whether or not the LG2. Is a good material (that’s my experimental side).

@KeepitBigBore Oh i see pal. Im sure youll be fine then by the sounds of it. Its a low stressed engine anyway isnt it. Keep up the good work. 👍

That was the other thing as well, I wouldn’t do it on someone else’s engine or any high performance engine of my own. ….. not until I see how this one performs at least 😬 Thankyou for commenting 👍🏽👍🏽

No reason why it won’t! I can’t say if the ecu is exactly the same or not but I know the engine is pretty much identical to the 306d1 (cast iron block) it’s just a Land Rover badge on it

Well if this isn’t smoke free when I’m done it’s going in the skip 🤣

I miss the old girl, she used to do a nice boost dump when shifting gears 🤦🏽‍♂️ They really are great machines land rovers, if I had the space I’d buy a series 3 as they are ULEZ compliant, I’d make that one at least 450bhp as I got the engine and transmission on the bench in the workshop already 🤣 I used to love seeing people get cause out by my defender, the angry ones were the best 😂 most people would just pull up beside me and ask me what I’ve done to it 😛

@@KeepitBigBore yeah you can’t get much more from a td5 than 350 and that’s after plenty of playing with stuff. Once had a chav car pull up next to me, windows down and music up. I blipped the throttle and the passenger was looking round to see what it was… there’s me in a hicap with fibreglass truck man and trailer with mower on the back🤣🤣 then I set off 😆 4 wheel spin 🤣🤣

Really, I didn’t know they could put out that kind of power! I heard a lot of rally guys still use the td5, is that true. Lot of people said to me they would never swap their TD5’s for an M57!! 😂😂 it’s when they get angry and won’t look at you at the next set of lights that cracks me up 😂😂

@@KeepitBigBore yeah theywill do it but how much time you have fixing it 🤷‍♂️. A lad I knew was about 300 if I remember right but he used to eat clutches or the ones he got were either on or off. 200-250 is the most on the original setup but again, not sure how much it’ll do before you have problems. Haha yeah I know what you mean! Had a bmw driver, roof down, wife in the passenger seat tried pushing in at the end of a dual carriageway. Closer and closer he got before he had to turn the other way. Wife swang her head to give me a gob full but looked straight into my door, then had to look up at me 🤣🤣me with shades on with half a smile as she went red 🤣🤣

Hello mate are you asking about the 2x seals on the crank? If so then you can manage to get them out and back in without splitting the case

I didn't know it was on ebay, I found it on Marketplace, viewed it 3 times as I knew it was going to need a good bit of work. I never looked at the pump too much to be honest it was enough to operate the cherry picker at idle. There is no PTO on it but they guy I bought it from had a 2 speed box on the bench in his workshop and didn't know about it so I've agreed to buy that too. The cherry picker is run off the standard hydraulics but I can see myself adding a bigger mid mounted, PTO driven one in the future, I don't think I'll ever need a rear PTO, maybe a front one and just a maybe at that.

@@KeepitBigBore to be fair, it might have been market place, I’ve been looking at soo many I loose where they are sometimes lol. You won’t notice the difference if you’ve never driven one but they are worth having a tweak to about 100-115 hp. Then again I had 150hp🫣😆 but she was more than tweaked. An underbelly pto were designed to run low engine revs, high gearing for the likes of a cherry picker. If you put the 2 speed box on look at putting both shafts on, makes her more desirable if it’s sold… as well as linkage and front din plate 😆

According to the engine code on this one it should be 81kw/108hp, I'm not sure if it's the original engine. I was looking at putting a decent hydraulic pump on this for powering attachments such as generator and an old lincoln welder that I have in mind. Bear in mind I have no space for storing these attachments so everything has to be as compact as possible. Was the 150hp a 406 as well? I hear of people claiming the 406 cant be "turboed" due to space restrictions but looking at mine I'm sure I could squeeze one in somehow. 😂 I doubt I'll put the rear shaft on, maybe the front at most. I'm more interested in removing the cherry picker and adding a HIAB, as this is something I would use for heavy equipment repairs, fabricating and house rennovations. Basically, this machine should do everything I cant do out of my "fitters" van.

@@KeepitBigBore 108hp?!? Ooo this is getting interesting! Are you sure it’s a 406 and not a 416? From what I’ve found out there’s only 36, 406s built with over 100hp. The 416s seemed to have a higher hp. Something niggles me that the arm mogs were 110hp but can’t just remember. The hole world of mogs is complicated and never 2 the same😆 I’m still learning my self! If you can, send me the first 6 digits of the chassis number… should start 406!

@@KeepitBigBore oh forgot about my old girl 😆 she had rebuilt modified om352 with no turbo. She was 2 inch lifted with oversized tyres. If you search unimog u900 406 120 off road there’s a video of her when my mate owner her. Try and listen to the engine not over the crap music😆 its also on a video Arthur Ibbetts had on there fb site. The lad that owned “the black beast” as she was known is a bit of a 406 guru. He said he’s only ever seen 1 with a proper merc fitted turbo and manifold but he doesn’t know what it was off. Problem you have is the length pipes and loss of pressure from them. It would have bragging rights but for speed and power you don’t but a 406😆

At that time 4 years ago I had one that needed fixing up as I couldn’t afford to buy a proper one. I’m lucky enough today to have one now though.

🤣 I love the tools I have in fairness, all old and built to last, I complain about lack of space but it is a nice cozy workshop at the end of the day I guess !! Thankyou very much, it’s great to hear this!!

Sold to the next guy who was a Land Rover trader who sold on to someone else, but long story short, it’s not with me any more unfortunately. London emissions regs forced me to get rid of it as It doesn’t meet new ULEZ standards! The 5.7L unimog does though…🤔

Thankyou very much!!

I know mate. Long story, the M57 defender is now gone, used it as a daily for the last few years but unfortunately it has to go. I explained a little bit in the next video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-36zKItdaA58.htmlsi=5ki-oUXk2fXjo8A3

The defender was made in 1990 but this is a 1973 so is considered a historic vehicle. Anything older than 1984 can be registered as a historical vehicle…..i hope 😂

@@KeepitBigBore I forgot about that mines 1989 so not long to wait lol

Not too long no 😂

@@KeepitBigBore and I've got a nice lively X5 engine to go in on auto box

@@graham-martin5847 😂😂 there won’t be a defender left that’s not m57. It makes such a huge difference to the defender. Have you had the chance to drive one with an m57 yet?

I hope it is, there is no going back for me now. I’ve put too much in to it! It HAS to be ULEZ compliant now 😂 could put an om352 generator on the back, put a Tesla motor on the transmission and say it identifies as an EV…. I know it’s crazy, when you see how much we all get scr***d you can’t un see it 🤦🏽‍♂️

@@KeepitBigBore there's an idea mate you could say the 6 cylinder diesel beast is to charge the ev battery I'm sure they won't flick an eye lid over it 🤣😂

This video isn’t the best but I’ve made the first video about reconditioning the connecting rods which is now on the channel. Thanks for your comment!

Lol don't do videos you wouldn't understand my Geordie accent anyway lol plus all the swearing it would just be full of beeps

🤬😂

I know mate, not a place for hobbies that require open space! Thankyou very much 👍🏽👍🏽

😂 if only it were 15 years older. You got the nail on the head, it’s all a bit of a scheme! God willing, one day I will build another one yes and go all out on it. Thankyou very much for your comment 👍🏽

Hello, most people claim to have no issue with squishbands in the IT490 but you'll still hear of people doing it. I'd like to see some pictures of yours if you don't mind. I'm on facebook and instagram as keep it big bore if you want to talk more.

I've had to sell my land rover, It was holding up fine while I had it. If I were to do another I would definitely use the 6 speed bmw manual, 6hp ZF auto or 8hp ZF auto. Nothing wrong with the R380 but parts for the BMW transmissions/adaptors were impossible to come by at the time of doing my conversion.

The sequence is just opposite, I always tighten to half torque all round and then do full torque tightening the opposite nut every time instead of moving around clockwise or counterclockwise. I wouldn't worry too much, it's hard to go wrong with these small heads. I took the torque specs from the manual, I can't remember off the top of my head as every engine I do is different!

I appreciate your time and knowledge- I know it's valuable- kl def use that method- awesome video very informative and straight to the point

They are!! I have a lot of loose ends to tie up at the moment, once I’m done I intend to make a few trips back up there again 😬

You can use A bmw 6 speed manual or the original Land Rover transmission 👍🏽

Hi mate, you can buy this from “house of torque” “Mw machines” and more, have a look on their website and Facebook page and reach out to them as I don’t sell this product myself 👍🏽

@@KeepitBigBore thank you sir !!!!!!!!

Hi mate, she’s holding up just fine!! The only thing I would do different is make a custom fork shaft for the p38 bell housing as the original one I’m sure has twisted a bit which meant I had to make a custom push rod for the slave cylinder which had to be a bit longer. Other than that she’s holding up just fine, I’ve done about 40k miles in it now and I haven’t been easy on it 😂

Hi I am fitting one of these engines in a discovery 1 I have kept the fuel pump from the tank and from under the passenger floor will the engine run with just the under floor pump or do I need to fit both pumps thanks Richard.

I’m still running mine with just the underfloor/inline pump and I’ve no issues 👍🏽

Hi mate. You could definitely run it. I don’t know of any kits for that transmission but an easy way to do it would be to run a prop shaft directly to the rear diff and just leave it as 2wd 👍🏽

Hi mate, Thankyou very much!! I haven’t done a thing to mine! It spins a wheel every time I put the boot down and I haven’t had any issues yet. My diffs have a lot of play and have been whining bad since I bought it as well. So I’d imagine a healthy diff would have no issues with a simple remapped m57 👍🏽

Hi mate, I used a p38 dual mass fly wheel and a custom clutch from clutchfix Uk, give them a call, they’ve made so many by now that they know exactly what you need 👍🏽

Hi mate, Sorry for my late response. As far as I know, that engine will be the m57306d1 so it’s the same as mine. So you could also go down the route of a p38 bell housing, use the original rr transmission and make an adaptor if you can or you could find a bmw zf6-53dz HGA transmission and get yourself a great manual set up!! Either way, I’m nearly certain it’s a 306d1 you got 👍🏽 Land Rover and bikes always go well together….Pure testosterone 🤣

@@KeepitBigBore Thanks mate - Yes I ran the L322 VIN through and it is a M57306D1. I have investigated a bit further and apparently the e46 M57Nd2 is also a perfect fit, using the MWMachines adaptor plate and clutch. I am pretty sold on using the standard R380 box and transfer case as this will cut down on cost and complexity. I realise that the R380 @380 nm rating might be a bit of a weak point, but I wont be thrashing the car so I think I should be OK. Same with clutch. The M57306D1 is rated at around 171hp and 390nm torque, and the M57ND2 is around 201hp and 410nm, but apparently the ND2 is a much better unit. Maybe I could derate it a bit?

For me personally, if I were going to stick with the r380 then I would use the p38 bell housing. The only downside is a heavier clutch pedal and a weak clutch fork shaft in the bell housing. It’s very easy to fit a separate and small brake servo unit to reduce the weight of the clutch pedal. Coupled with a p38 dmf and clutch clutch you’ll have yourself a 600nm capable set up. The r380 obviously still being the weak point. The way I like to look at the engines are 306d1, 306d2(m57n), 306d3(m57n2) etc The e46 330d came with both n and n2 as far as I know. The cast iron version is the m57n and has the same bell housing pattern as the 306d1. The only reason the m57n’s would be considered better units is for their “tuneability”. You can’t get any more reliable than a 306d1. My 306d1 is remapped to 240bhp in the e39, it now has a straight through 3” pipe, egr delete etc so it’s possibly somewhere around 250bhp and 450-500nm and my r380 is holding up just fine! I’ve pulled away from many l200’s, rangers, td5’s etc so I don’t go east on it 🤣🤣 The p38 bell housing may even save you a little more again. If you use the p38 you got to buy a custom clutch. If you use the bmw 6 speed manual you have to buy an lt230 adaptor. Best thing to do is price up all your options and let prices and availability decide for you. It’s the sole reason I’m running the p38 set up 👍🏽

Hi mate, Thankyou very much!! So most of the sensors you need will be attached to the engine apart from a pre supply pressure sensor which may be in the fuel filter unit. If you are buying a complete car you will be able to clearly see where everything is when you remove the engine. Just make sure you have connected all the ground points and it should run on a test bench just as in my “first start” video 👍🏽👍🏽

Apologies for my late response also. I’ve been struggling to spend the time I’d like to spend on RU-vid !!