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Two years into a 5.6kw solar system on a 2000 sq ft home in Idaho I can say that it covers all of our electrical needs. We typically only use A/C June through August and this is when solar production is highest, producing about 34kwh per day. In winter we use 1/2 as much electricity and our solar panels produce about 1/2 as much energy. This is a pretty good match for our lifestyle.
What type of documentation i need to have in order to probe that my system is operating if I installed myself and not a contractor? What type of documentation i need to have to support the solar tax credit? thanks
was it an off-grid system? did you have to get permits to install it? to claim ITC, you generally only need IRS Form 5695 and Schedule 3 (Form 1040) if it's a home system. but keep the receipts for all of your equipment as a support if the IRS decides to check.
@@a1solarstore not off-grid. i read that the system needs to be operational to claim the credit, what documents is required that is operational? thanks for your comment!
Funny note here. You and Tanya use the word OPINION quite a bit. There is a funny expression about the word "opinion." I humbly suggest you use scientific facts, physics and hard core results to prove your points. That will increase respect that you need to get more business. Also, remember this. National or international averages of occurrences has zero to do with those of us that sometimes suffered without power from 1 day to several weeks with no generator or backup plan. Also, when mentioning let's say Powerwall, make concrete statements not based on what you hear but what you know for a fact. Otherwise, leave all companies out of these scenarios. I want you to win with facts. Hype is weak.
Thank you Tanya. A certain competitor said Tesla uses inferior system parts and configurations. They also have extremely poor customer service. A1 has quite the variety. I think it would be good to make a diagram of parts needed to design a system for let's say a 2,000 square foot home with 1 4 ton central AC unit, 1 refrigerator, 1 freezer, 3 bedrooms, 1 stove, 1 water heater, charging outlet for electric vehicles, efficient lighting throughout, washer, dryer. I think your presentation of up to date technology is very important for those of us that have suffered through loss of power for short times to several days/weeks. I am studying your website. It is a bit frustrating but I will keep looking. I really do not want to spend $1200 to $20,000 for any kind of a generator that needs maintenance and parts.
Point of order: Some solar companies (TIPA, some sellers of CIGS) say "more efficiency" when they mean "more electricity". People love to gleefully "bust" these claims using the actual meaning of solar efficiency, even if that is clearly not what is meant. Read adverts carefully! But take "busts" with a grain of salt too.
My point of order is this is a mini-class with Tanya. So take some notes. Look at the graphs. Start thinking of your own systems. Science and physics always beats opinions. Thank you Tanya. My wife understood this Too!
Could you specify what you mean by 'cracking underneath'? like, when a backsheet break first? it could be strong wind getting under panels and in this case it can be installer's fault (ideally, you want to prevent the wind from getting under array), a weak panel or just a very strong wind. hard to tell just like this
@@a1solarstore Yes, the white back sheet. From the video I saw it was shown that Canadian solar, had issues after a few years of use. The back sheet was cracking and the panels became a hazard.
Where I live, most panels installed are 60 cell, 250 watt poly-crystalline. You can get 72 cell 300 watt panels as well, and I consider that the upper limit. While 96 cell 400 watt panels are available, I don't recommend them. Our biggest threat is snow load. The bigger the panel, the more weight there is piling up on each individual panel. My #1 concern, is the thermal cyclic expansion and contraction of being heated up during the day, then, cooling off at night. The larger the frame size, the more stress caused by expansion and contraction, just as a part of normal operation. I've actually seen large frame panels sag in the heat of the day, as if someone is standing in the middle of one. They go flat once they cool off. there has to be a certain amount of stress on it when that happens, because the flexure is actually similar to a 200 Lb person standing on it. I have not observed that in 60 cell panels.
Interesting observations. Where do you live? we usually deal with monocrystalline panels and a 400-watt mono panel is generally a 60-cell or a 66-cell panel.
@@a1solarstore I live in Northern Utah, where we get 100°F summer days, and get sub-freezing winters, with a lot of snow. Hail storms happen, but they're rare. (though, it only takes one). Also rare, but it happens, are wind storms with gusts approaching 100 MPH. The biggest threats are thermal cyclic stress, and snow load. You're right, your 66 cell, 400 watt monocrystalline panels are not quite as big as my 72 cell Poly's, but slightly larger than our 60 cell Polys. They would work well for us. I picked up my 72 cell Poly's for $135.00 each, which at 300 watts each works out to $0.45 per watt! They're bulky, but, these are the heavy duty solar farm grade panels, weighting 58 Lb each. I have just enough room on my roof, to install all 54 of these old school industrial giants. (each frame 39" wide, 77" tall, 2" thick frames) I will be stringing them 9 panels each, 6 drops, each string on the same plane, each string connected to its own maximum power point tracker.
12 years in and my system is still working great. Here in central British Columbia this week it is going to hit 32c, in winter I see -40c, and thankfully we have only had a few hail storms. I have a 15 panel array that are 270 watt. I use a ground mount system to help with the constant snow removal. If you build your system to the environment you are living in you should do just fine, barring freak storms. I can't imagine ever going back to the grid.
You mean hybrid PV thermal panels? As far as i know, they haven't really taken off. people say they are hard to install and do average job at both heating water and generating electricity.
Technically, you can charge a car battery with solar if you add a charge controller in between - the way i see at least. But the thing is, a car battery is not the same as a deep-cycle battery. deep-cycle battery is meant to be charged and discharged. Car battery provides a quick burst of energy. If you charge and discharge it, it will quickly die out.
With current credits and rebates here In Illinois I can get 3 PW2s installed for about $18K or about $4K LESS than a generator. So we are adding 3 PW2s to our AC coupled Enphase PV system. I’ll leave physical space for a 4th PW2 in the future.
You mean take the heat that panels get under the sun and use it for water heating? It is a thing. There are so-called PVT (photovoltaic thermal) panels. They haven't quite taken off, as far as i know: a bit too complex to set up, a bit too expensive and do an average job both ways: the water is not as hot, and electric production is not as good.
I want to see someone lift those 800 watt panels on to the roof. My 400 bifacial is already 45lbs. Also more powerful doesnt translate to more efficient.
*1000 watts MAXIMUM per square meter at the EQUATOR full on. A solar cell gives 30% absolute max = 300 watts. over 24 hours = 150 max. In real world use barely 50 watts DUE to tilt angle random clouds building and obstructions etc etc..*
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A single PW2 battery cost about $11,500 (plus installation costs). They are rated at 13.5KW. However, if you get them, they are warrantied for 10 years and who knows what a battery will cost then? Already, manufacturers are coming up with batteries to replace Lithium batteries with Sodium, so they could be dirt cheap then!
Well, even if you have claimed Solar Tax Credit for panels already installed, it shouldn't get in the way of getting itc for new ones. "Earlier installations of qualifying property do not affect the availability of the credit for qualifying property in later years. - www.irs.gov/pub/irs-wd/201809003.pdf#page=4 So i'd say, treat these added panels and the labor to install them as a cost of a new system. It would be reasonable to subtract the parts that you have claimed itc for - like an inverter, if you're keeping the old one. oh, and ask your new contractor about it as well.
Would I qualify for the federal tax credit if I pay a 3rd party (Plastiq) with a credit card and then Plastiq issued a check on my behalf to the solar company? Note I am the owner of the panels.
I had a re-roofing done together with the Solar Panel installation, can I use the full price they charged me or do I have to figure out the amount of the Solar Panels alone?
Generally, roofing materials do not qualify for tax credit - unless you have installed solar shingles, tesla roof or something like that. Read more here: www.irs.gov/newsroom/energy-incentives-for-individuals-residential-property-updated-questions-and-answers
When calculating the payback period, do you assume that the same amount of $ could have been invested in a global stocks and shares ETF for the same period (-tax). If not, then you should!
