Can you make a detailed video about this one I just bought this BMW X5 whit the same Engine and I have no idea how to take the engine cover off first time ever that I have a BMW thanks.
If you’re talking about the plastic cover the top main one has four screws. The side covers that cover the plugs has no screws, just pull it and “rip” it out.
Hi Jaden Wease. BMW Spark Plug are 5/8 inch you need to use a 5/8 inch Spark Plug Socket. On the N62 Engines the spark plugs are deep down inside the Cylinder Head so you need to get yourself a 5/8 SWIVEL SPARK PLUG SOCKET WITH THE MAGNET INSIDE OF IT. You can first use the regular 5/8 spark plug socket with the rubber garnet inside of it to loosen the spark plugs, but to get the spark plug out of the hole, you will need the SWIVEL spark plug Socket with the MAGNET INSIDE OF IT, plus an extension. Please watch the video again to see the MAGNETIC SPARK PLUG SOCKET I am talking about. Hope this information help. Please subscribe to me channel.
Hi keante Burks The NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plugs came pre-gapped, they all worked great once I had them installed. The ELECTRODE is very thin so you run the risk of breaking the tip off if you try re-gapping. Please like and subscribe to my channel, thanks
I have a 2008 bmw 650i and I got my whole top end rebuilt with new everything. I’ve been fighting misfire on cylinder 6 for the longest and now it’s bouncing around to different cylinders. I’ve paid bmw too much money to fix it. They even done a compression test. Now they want to charge me to rebuild the whole top end again. Do you have any idea on what could be causing my misfire?
Hi KayohKing I think I have the solution to your misfire problems. BMW HYDRAULIC LIFTERS aka BMW VALVE LIFTERS Your Hydraulic Lifters are not getting enough oil lubrication as to why you’re having a lot of misfires. Each Hydraulic lifter consist of a cylindrical body with an internal piston that protrudes from the top. Whenever pressurized oil enters through a hole in the lifter body and flows into a narrow channel. This oil enters the internal lifter cylinder but flows freely out the other side. When the cam presses down on the lifter piston, it closes the channel. This locks the valve open temporarily, even under high pressure, so that gas can escape the cylinder. When the cam passes its peak, the lifter piston can rise, allowing the oil to flow freely again. In turn, it causes the valve to snap shut, preserving proper engine air pressure. So, the main reason you’re having major misfire in cylinder 6 is because your lifter is NOT BEING COMPRESS FAR ENOUGH during the intake and exhaust cycle. Check to see if the hole in each lifer is clog, hold one of the lifers in your hand then try to compress it, if you’re having problem compressing the lifer then it is failing. Usually, you can reuse the lifer once you clean it. BMW ENGINE VARIABLE TIMING (VVT) SOLENOID aka BMW VANOS The general lack of optimized valve timing from a VANOS issue will contribute to issues like misfiring, rough idle, and poor fuel economy. Check the Vanos for clogs or failure. Lack of oil pressure coming from the Vanos to the cylinder head can cause major misfire. CYLINDER HEAD OIL CHECK VALVE You maybe having a low oil pressure in your cylinder head. Check for failing Cylinder head oil check valves. This pressure relief valve is located in the cylinder head and is responsible for keeping oil in the cylinder head on start up. Over time the pressure relief valve can fail allowing oil to escape the cylinder head back into the oil pan. Pieces of the valve can sometimes be found in the oil filter housing when they fail. HOW TO CHECK THE CYLINDER HEAD OIL CHECK VALVE There are three-cylinder head oil check valve on each bank. Hold the valve in your hand, then block one side of the small hole with one of your fingers, then blow air through the other side of the little hole, you should hear air escaping through the large opening at the bottom of the valve. Next try to blow air through the large opening of the oil check valve, where the plastic is, ( don't block the small holes) you should not be able to blow air through. If air is coming out the two small holes, then the oil check valve fails. If there is no plastic in the large opening of the oil check valve, then you need to replace the valve. Please subscribe to my Channel. Thanks
Did this resolve rmisfire and rough idling issues? which bmw series is this 2004 545i? I am having rough idle and misfire issues only when car is cold in the mornings. When car is warm, runs perfect.
Hi pastmedia. Yes, I do have the 2004 545I N62. Changing the spark plugs and ignition coils did resolve my misfire problem, which was giving me an Increased Emission message display on my IDrive. If you’re still having misfire problem then check for: Fuel Injection Problem. A problem with your fuel injector or its engine control unit can cause a misfire due to a poor balance between the amount of fuel and the amount of air that is used. Also check for: Faulty O2 Oxygen Sensors especially the upstream ones. If you’re are having rough idle problems during cold starts: you may have a Poor EVAP System, check for vacuum leaks, check for a (MAF) Bad Mass Air Flow Sensor or a bad (MAP) Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. Sometimes you will not get a fault code when the MAP or MAF sensors are bad, but the poor air mixture can cause rough idle. The ( MAP) Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is located at the back of the intake manifold, very difficult to reach but is possible to replaced without removing the intake manifold. Also check for Vacuum leak. If you’re still having rough idle problem then check your BMW Secondary Air Injection Check Valve, there are two of these at the back of the intake manifold they might be faulty or clog. Also check your BMW Secondary Air Pump, The BMW Secondary Air Pump work with the BMW Secondary Air Injection Check Valve, check first if the Pump is faulty or bad. The BMW Secondary Air Pump is very easy to replace. The BMW Secondary Air Injection Check Valve is very difficult to reach, it is located below the firewall, you might have to remove the intake manifold to reach then, there is one on each bank. Good luck I hope I offer you some good information to your problems.
@@chrisblackprince5745 I did replace all spark plugs and valve cover gasket, air filter, oil /filter change, All was good for few months, but only issue was a slight rpm movement at idle maybe by 10 or 20, it was not stable or fixed it kept jerking a bit. Now, my RPM is jumping up and then down below 500 at idle, car feels like it going to stall and shakes, then recovers. At restart i m getting service engine/emission dmtl 27cd code, i assume from the rough idle, but once i clear it all is good except for the idle UP/DOWN below 500 in park or neutral. it s doing it more now when car is warm after start up, but before it was when cold mostly... any advice, my mechanic did relearn all data, and put injection cleaner but still not fixed.
@@pastmedia Hi pastmedia I am so sorry that you're still having problems with your BMW. Let me try to give you some ideas, The code 27cd you're getting is relates to the DMTL system. This is the diagnostic module tank leakage fault code. This is a test that is run to check the air tightness of the purge system for the fuel tank and carbon canister. This fault will set when a problem in the system arises. Do a smoke test to see if there is a vacuum leak in the system or if the fuel pump itself may be faulty. The other item may be the purge valve stuck open also contributing to the mixture fault on one of the bank. Check these areas the gas cap, the fuel pump seal, the expansion tank, the pump, the purge valve, the canister and the intake for leaks. Your EVAP system have some form of a leak, try doing a smoke test of the system. I hope this help you.
So my DMTL code is no longer coming up. My RPM idle gage still spikes up and down within 2 minutes of start up and even after car is warmed up but must be in neutral or Park idling. What causes this issue. No check engine lights on dash and OBD scanner shows no error either. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
@@pastmedia Hi pastmedia its good to hear that you no longer have a DMTL 27cd fault code. If your RPM idle gage still spikes up and down within 2 minutes, this could mean that you have a BAD IDLE CONTROL VALVE. The idle control valve communicate with the vehicle's ECU and control airflow when you're idling. So, when wear and tear get to this component, a disruption in information exchange happens. The idle control valve can't function properly, resulting in higher RPMs and fluctuations. you might want to replace or clean idle control valve unit. Symptoms of a bad idle control valve includes the vehicle struggling to start, rough idling, stalling, and backfiring. The good news is that cleaning the idle control valve is simple to do so you can start here first. Your crankshaft position sensor can also cause RPM FLUCTUATIONS so you might want to check your crankshaft position sensor too. Try to watch one of my other video for more information. Here is the link to that video. BMW RUNNING ROUGH, MISFIRE ISSUES, OR HAVING POOR PERFORMANCE ISSUES ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v6C8lXF_NTA.html I hope some of this information help you in getting your BMW running better. Thanks for subscribing to the channel.
Did this resolve rough idling issue? which bmw series is this 2004 545i? I am having rough idle and misfire issues only when car is cold in the mornings. When car is warm, runs perfect.
Hi pastmedia changing the PCV Valve have nothing to do with rough idle or misfire. If you're having Grey smoke from the exhaust: This could be excess oil, or a PCV valve failure. I was just doing a regular maintenance as to why I changed my PCV Valves. Good luck I hope I offer you some good information to your problems. Thanks for watching
@@chrisblackprince5745 Not true. PCV can be split, or hard, reducing its ability to work as intended. Or can be blocked up with gunk, along with the connected CCV pipes. Cleaning these out can fix rough idle/misfire.
Great vid, question, did you have any issues in putting the alternator back in. I have mine out but am having the hardest time putting it back it. it seems like the battery cable is not long enough but I know it is. Just need to know how you angled it in. or if anyone else knows. Much appreciated.
Hi Joe martinez all you need to do is completely removed the radiator fan assembly, you will have lots of room to pull the alternator out after removing all of the bolts, then disconnect the alternator cable. reverse the process to install the new alternator..you need to reconnect the cable at the back of the alternator first before you put the bolts back in...PLEASE REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR FAN ASSEMBLY FIRST...good luck
@@chrisblackprince5745 thanks for the quick response. I have done all the above and not able to wiggle that bad boy back in. I saw how you had the cable sitting on top of the alternator. I might try that and see if I can get it to push back and in. Will let you know.
Hi Joe Martinez if you're still having problems reinstalling your alternator, make sure your new alternator is the correct replacement for your BMW, the bolt holes must be the same as the original alternator. Now after you reconnect the big black alternator cable, you need to reroute the big black cable, the way it was originally. if you look at my video with the original alternator still in place, you will notice that the big black cable is routed to the front, and right above the top of the original alternator. If you're having problems reinstalling your alternator, then you're not routing the big black cable correctly. Please try to remember how the big black alternator cable was routed before you removed the original alternator. The alternator only fit one way, if the cable is routed incorrectly you will have major problem trying to get the alternator back in. Hope this help good luck.
Hello everyone! I would like to inquire about display screen glass itself for BMW E60 2008-2010. Is it available to purchase somewhere? Or it is easier to buy pre-owned whole display and do the repplacement? I have some tiny cracks on the corner of glass and afraid that they will go further. Thus I am trying to find a replacement but found that it's not that easy. Thanks in advance! Have a good day!
Yes, the Radio was still working when the IDRIVE Display went Blank. I could hear music playing on the Radio, I just could not change or see the Radio Station from the IDRIVE Display because the IDRIVE Display was TOTALLY WHITE. I totally lost all function of the IDRIVE Display until I replaced it with another IDRIVE Display. Please know if you can not hear the Radio playing or the CD player playing music, then your Car Communication Computer (CCC ) or (CIC) Car Information Computer maybe bad. I hope I could help you, in answering your question. Good Luck
@@creator2765 Tried the hard reset method, by holding down ( BOTH AT THE SAME TIME) the power button on the radio, and the eject button on the CD Player, for around 10 seconds to see if the Display reset itself. If your IDRIVE have a Navigation System, tried the hard reset method, by holding down (ALL THREE AT THE SAME TIME) the Radio power button and the eject button on the CD Player, and the DVD Player Eject button, for around 10 second to see if the Display reset itself. If nothing change then try to find a used IDRIVE DISPLAY at a junk yard. if that still doesn't work, then have the CCC or CIC unit check. good luck.
