OMG of course theres a bolt there lol why wouldnt there be lol geez i fought that stupid thing for a good hour at least kept prying a nd cracked the damn trim piece while doing it too lol thanks for this i actually really needed to watch this
Hope it works, going to try it out now. I was like oh no I purchase the wrong supprt beam and I'm in the middle of a trying to get to my turbo and. What to do, hope this works out because it would save my day.
Did it ever knock? I’m having some type of head issue on a 07 n51 with 105k, I did a pull to 5-6k rpm and the next thing I know I have misfires on 6,5,4,2 and it’s knocking insanely loud. I don’t get any other codes besides misfires. It sounds like the normal lifter tick except it’s 100x louder, I was thinking it could be a lifter spring, or this. Besides that idk what else could be wrong, I’ve never heard of these engines ever having these types of failures before.
@@freestylette I figured it out ended up being some type of brake cleaner in the intake manifold, getting the spark plugs wet every time I started the car. I pulled it all out, degreased and replaced the gaskets. Everything’s good now
The original and previous owner of my 2012 Lincoln Navigator had the compressor fail and one air shock leaking at the same time. The other three air shocks were not far from needing replacement, so they made the decision to replace the air springs with coll overs. The compressor was removed from the vehicle, the air springs removed and replaced with coil overs and I don't think the air spring solenoids were reconnected, nor the electrical connectors at the air springs. I had test drove the same vehicle with the air ride system and another with the coil over springs and found very little or no ride and handling difference. My vehicle rides great with coil over springs, but there remains just one annoying problem. The in-dash information display shows the message; "Check Air Suspension System" every time the vehicle is started. The message is easily cleared by pressing the Reset button before I start driving, but I'd like to find a way to eliminate the message. Could it be as simple as repositioning and affixing the level sensors at each spring assembly or inserting a jumper into the electrical connectors to trick the system to think the vehicle is at the optimum level and not generate the message? I'm not sure what actually triggers the message to display. Any help from yourself or other commenters would be appreciated.
I'm pretty sure I cover this in the video, but what I did was to leave the leveling sensors installed on the vehicle and fasten them so that they remained in the position of fully aired up suspension. The code was never a problem after that.
@@freestyletteThanks for your reply. I've tried fully contracting and fully extending the sensors and still had the message. I guess I need to find that "sweet spot" somewhere in the middle to prevent the code. I'll re-address the issue in about 6 weeks when the 2 feet of snow is gone and I can get under there. lol.
I’ve learned so much watching these sharpening videos as to why clippers bite. The reason why they bite is because the top moving blade is sticking out too far over the bottom stationary blade DUH🤦🏽 Thank You Man👍🏽🙏🏽❤️
I’m having the exact problem with my son’s BMW, I replaced the sensors and still no start. My mechanic said the engine has no compression just by the speed of the motor when cranking. I don’t know if he even did a proper test now after seeing this video. I’m guessing I’ll try this and hopefully it’s this simple!
Be sure you have proper oil pressure before running the car too much after fixing this issue. Typically this broken bolt is a symptom of low oil pressure due to serpentine belt pieces getting sucked into the crank case. Sounds ridiculous but it happens a lot. I have a video on that as well.
For anyone without an air hose or small air compressor you also use a vacuum cleaner if you have one where air flow can be reversed. Just put a narrow nozzle on the end to focus the air into the crack and you're golden. I used my old Electrolux vacuum. You can also use a bike pump with a straw.
Actually, I have changed this compressor 3 times. The good thing about all this is that it was under warranty. Now I have decided to change to a conventional one. I think it is a very good decision.
Hey I recall the 3 that come out from the passenger side airbag being bigger thab the standard trim screws but you didnt mention the size. Need to find replacements as my gf moved them into storage somewhere when i let her borrow my truck.
So riddle me this batman how the hell does a serpentine belt that's on the outside of the engine end up inside the oil pan? And then getting sucked up into the oil pump pick up ?? It can't happen!
Unfortunately, it very much does happen. Even more frightening is that this is somewhat common on these engines. If your oil filter housing starts leaking a bit, it makes it's way to the belt. At that point the belt begins to slip and break down, eventually coming apart and wrapping strands of itself behind the harmonic balancer. As these windings get tighter, enough pressure builds to force the lower windings through the main shaft seal and bearing and into the crankcase. Once in the crankcase, it's a very simple trip from there into the pick up tube where it quickly clogs up and stops the oil flow into the rest of the engine. Kapow.
Yes, definitely. Suggest you stop running your car until you know what the problem is. This issue causes very low oil pressure which makes it impossible to set proper timing. Improper timing causes very rough idle. Please check into this before you possibly cause damage to your camshafts. Could be something else causing the rough idle, but you should make sure you don't have low oil pressure before driving it anymore.
Hey bro thanks for making this video. I've been looking for something like this, as i'm in the exact same situation; engine ate belt, no start after. It would turn over, but i didn't realize the exhaust came was seized up, and the bolt broke clean off. I actually have a spare n52 head, so i'm thinking to just put the cam from that one onto this one. Is that essentially what you did? Did you have any internal damages? i've been trying compression tests and they are all very low (90ish to about 120psi max). How did you determine valves/pistons were okay? Trying to find out if I need to go further in and replace head gasket, or if the bottom is toast, just replace the whole thing. Thanks again!
I pulled the cam shafts off and restored the damaged one (shared that process in another video. Got a lot of hate, but it's lasted over 10,000 miles now no problem). I checked for valve damage by adding a little bit of fluid in the ports. Since the cam shafts were off, all the valves were closed. Mine were all undamaged so they held the fluid which I then soaked up with rags.
Yeah, crazy, right?? What happens is that the serpentine belt usually starts slipping because of a leak in the oil filter housing up top. Because the belt is oily, it doesn't squeak like normal so it goes unnoticed. As the belt slips, it begins to deteriorate and eventually comes apart. As it comes apart, the internal strings begin to wrap around and behind the harmonic balancer which is turning on the main crankshaft. As these pieces wrap more and more between the harmonic balancer and the block, serious pressure begins to build, eventually forcing the serpentine belt pieces through the main seal and into the crankcase. Pretty much a nightmare.
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Only one comment....... Your approach with working with the Control Arm is WAY Better than others who take off about 3 different parts, Plus the brake. I followed your approach - Step-By-Step,, ....But,,, I didn't have to take off the Caliper. Once that Control Arm iis completely undone, you can get the old shock out and the new one in with no problem - just watch it a little closely, but otherwise..... BEST APPROACH I'VE SEEN! I would Highly recommend it! OH - An Impact Gun makes it REAL Easy. Thank You for the video!
Thank you so much for making this video! The info you provided made this job so easy for my '13 King Ranch EL 4x4. Btw, I reconnected my little rods for the leveling switches and it hasn't thrown me any warnings.
I think it's hilarious on the comments how people are watching a how-to video but commenting on how to do it better like why are you watching a fucking RU-vid video on how to sharpen blades if you know how to do it better than the guy trying to show you?