Just an average Joe loving his cycling and telling the world via the medium of RU-vid.
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Perhaps I simply just missed it in you video, but how do I reset the total distance from 9999 to zero? It seems stuck on 9999 total distance and does not automatically turn over again to "0" or "zer0" distance. This is perhaps after owning it 2 years now and it is stuck on 9999 total distance .
I don't have my unit any more so can't help I'm afraid, I would suggest contacting Coospo Customer services who seem to be quite good when I've had a couple of glitches with their products
Didnt even pair the sensors, worthless review. You got it for free and behave like primadonna, if you dont want the product, why even agree to get it...
You are of course entitled to your opinion, however if you paid attention to the review you will hear that I don't have any sensors to pair with it. I agreed to get the product because Coospo asked me to review it even though they knew I was unlikely to use it long term because without navigation it doesn't quite have the feature set I need but when the next version with navigation comes out I would almost certainly keep it - it's got the potential to be a Garmin or Wahoo killer.
I hope to to, when Coospo offered to send me the CS300 they said the '500' would be available soon and they would send it to me once available so hopefully I will receive one - If not I may well buy one anyway to review. If it's as good as the two previous model I reviewed it is likely to very good value for money.
@@CyclingLabs I have CS300 and i have nothing to complain about, so i was wondering how their navigation model will fare. It also has the freeform data feature from BC200, where you can input any data type in any data field of the bike computer, while CS300 doesn't have this feature. I'm truly hoping that coospo will develop even better bike computer with open street map support, i wouldn't mind dropping a 200-300 usd for a unit like that, still cheaper than garmin and i prefer to support chinese companies tbh rather than american.
Use the thin lanyard that comes with GPS units to wrap round your bars, its saved mine many a time when the unit has broken loose from the mount and wants to hit the deck!
You are of course correct - I have never bothered before and its never been a problem. Once bitten, twice shy though, the replacement unit now has the lanyard permanently attached. You live and learn.
I have the same issue with my Giant TCX., even though it does have the rubber grommet mentioned by @wallacedavidg. Thanks @CyclingLabs for the tip, I'll defenitly try it out latter today.
great vid, just got mine its charging, this video helped me a lot changing to MPH also changes the temp to F is there a way to have MPH and C? for temp
ciao una info, come scarichi i dati su STRAVA si vede proprio la mappa del percorso fatto (come se la visualizzassi da Google Maps) o solo il totale chilometrico (in pratica una linea retta con il totale? grazie
Thanks for your review, I am waiting for Coospo to bring out one with a Navigator. I have just bought their rechargeable chest strap which is excellent! No more faffing around with coin batteries that keep running out.
@@CyclingLabs yes indeed. Their is a review of one coospo with a NAV but I can't see it for sale anywhere. GCN won't show you Garmins cos they're in a contract with wahoo which I think has made them very wahoo biased. I suppose the Bryton rider is the compromise but still too expensive for the averagely endowed cyclist
The speed and cadence sensors are sold seperately although I'm informed that the unit should work with any ANT+ compatible sensor. I no longer have the unit so I cannot comment on that though.
They do not come with it. It can be paired with any Ant+ cadence or speed sensor. I got a set of Garmin sensors. Wanted the cadence sensor for my trainer sessions anyway. The speed sensor is kind of redundant, but will allow you to still track speed and distance (for the running total odometer) without a satellite lock. I've got the speed sensor on my road bike but I've also used this on my MTB without it and it has worked fine.
Do you think the topstone being an alloy bike is too harsh/uncomfortable for gravel? I'm debating between this alloy topstone and another entry carbon gravel bike...
I don't find it harsh but I have little frame of reference to be honest as I've only ridden alloy MTBs since the early '90s so maybe I'm just immune / used to it.
Replacement screws can be obtained from Garmin or a watch repair outfit such as Timpsons. If it's the head of the screws try using a different sized screwdriver
I did check Wiggle out first (although I didn't see your vid) and they had nothing on there for less than £40 a pair (and still don't) so I suspect you had some end of line stock or something. I had an Amazon voucher to spend so went that route instead.
@@CyclingLabs I know they are available because I lost the one that came with the bike. When I replaced the drive train after 35,000 k (23,000 mi) the bike was returned to me with a new grommet. Another way is to wrap electrical tape around the brake line. I also covered the exposed bare cables (under the BB) with color matching tape to keep the road dirt and spray from getting into the shift cables.
Yes, I've heard that some models are fitted with Torx screws - they are becoming more common and I use a cheap screwdrivre set from Amazon for low torque applications like this. amzn.to/3mLkHEn
Please tell me whether does auto start, stop and auto backlight work? Is there a competing product that is full automatic? I don't want to interfere with the operation of the device unnecessarily every time I get on the bike. I want the meter permanently on the bike.
BC107 doesn't have auto start, you have to push the middle button to start an activity. auto stop and auto backlight is available, but BC107 backlight is not as smart as BC200, because BC200 has a light sensor.
@@johnyen3620 Thank you for the explanation. Cheaper devices have automatic operation. But unfortunately they are too small and show too little data at the same time and have a small button battery. It is inconvenient to interfere with the operation of the device if you do not want to. It is not necessary to do this with cars, and why then with bicycles.
@@tomazstamcar2734 All these bike computers are not button battery anymore, they are rechargeable lithium battery now, and can be used more than 20 hours on each charge. Also, you can set the bike computer completely on your smartphone, because they are all Bluetooth now. So when you put it on the bike, you just need to push the start and end button. Check the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S9BYaWEh00w.html
I think it's only a bit of thickish paper with the + symbol to help with battery orientation. I'd get hold of some of those sticky dots and put one or two in until you have created enough padding in the lid to stop the battery rattling loose. You could then use a pen to put the + symbol on the sticker to remind you of battery orientation.
I have just spent over 30 minutes and there is absolutely no way to get the battery back in and locked in place, this is designed so poorly I can't believe they released this to the public.
The knack with this is once you have the marks on the cover and case aligned is to gently squeeze them together and then twist the cover in to place. Practising without the battery in place might help.
@@CyclingLabs I have changed the battery many times. This time, I can screw the cap to the lock position. Not a reliable design, seems it wears after a few battery changes and even with applying force from a small screwdriver and pushing down firmly, I can't lock it in place.
@@dansteinbach6296 The lockngn mechanism is crap and pretty damn hard for a fundtion that needs to be repeated hundreds of times. Garmins are absolute shit with all the crap you have to put up with. Not to mention that the actual units have their faults as well. Ive had two garmins now and i am not buying another. I am getting a wahoo next. Screw garmin. The metal casing that sticks to the battery is also something that people screw up if not careful and that means buying a whole new speed sensor if you mess that thing up. Just the whole design seems to be made by people who do not use or even test the product they release.
