Making stuff up as I go along. Learn from my mistakes.
Just me in my garage tinkering with bikes & other random things, but generally making a mess. This is not a 'how to' channel and you should always seek advice of local experts not some dodgy bloke on the internet.
I am not a professional, do not try this at home.
Passing on things I have learnt in the past, hopefully might be of use or entertainment to someone, such as mental patients.
For entertainment purposes only. If you copy me and get hurt or burn your house down don't blame me.
I go by the pronouns what/ever and identify as a 10mm socket...
Disclaimer: I am not a professional mechanic and these videos are for entertainment purposes only. I am not responsible for any loss, damage or personal injury.
Quick note:clutch Centre adjustment should always be made with the cable very, very slack or else you can get the dreaded clicking clutch issue due to over-travel of the mechanism.
Having just finished placing a new stator, clutch and belt drive on a 71 Norton 750, I can see the triumph is similar, however there is a bit more fiddling with the T140. I have a 73 T140 up on the lift and am so glad to see this video of someone doing it in real time. Thanks for taking the time to film it.
I might but I need to see what other horrors are hiding yet and if the budget will stretch that far. Might need a crank regrind and rebore yet, won't know until I've fully stripped and got the bits measured.
I had issues with my rotor rubbing on the stator,....spent hours trying to get 0.2mm clearance, tapping the studs this way and that way....ended up skimming 0.2 out of ID of the stator....that was 1000 km ago....no problems any more.
I'm going to have to buy new stator and rotor so will get a matched pair which should make the alignment a little easier, glad I noticed now and not in the dark at the side of the road in the rain...
Great video! That is a heck of a lot of oil that drained out of the primary. It must have been smoking pretty serious on start up. Also, curious to know what may have caused the stator to rub on the magnet? Can't help but wonder if a bit of swarf from somewhere else may have got between the two surfaces?
I think it was wet dumping a bit… 😂 Looks like the stator had moved after I fitted it, there’s some wiggle room on the studs to give some minor adjustment, I remember it being a complete pain to install a few years ago.
@@bodganeering that makes sense. I didn't realize the stator could be adjusted. Since you' are going to need to replace some parts, maybe this is an opportunity to put a different / electronic ignition system on it.
@MadTinkerman already got electronic fitted and that’s a three phase stator, I fitted a lithium battery which is tiny but put three phase on as the battery needs a stable power supply or it throws a wobbly and butlers into flames. 😂
@@bodganeering Oh that's great that you have an electronic ignition already! I am considering the TriSpark for my '77 T140v as apparently it is a relatively easy install and dynamically adjusts timing to make starting / kicking over, easier. I'll check your channel to see if you have a video on the electronic ignition install.
I haven’t done a vid on the install as I wasn’t trying to be a movie star at the time. If you take a look at Paul Henshaws channel he does a good description of setting up the points system to run well.
I have 1977 T140v and very much enjoyed watching this first engine rebuild video. I'll be watching the others intently as well. I suspect I'll need to do a similar job on my bike in the not too distant future so very much appreciate you taking the time to document the effort. Cheers!
I also have a 77. My rocker boxes leak and you made it look so easy to pop them off and redo the gaskets. Ever thought about using just Hylomar or other anaerobic sealant instead of paper? I’ve always coated my paper gaskets in hylomar until they dry but I’m thinking of trying just hylomar on the valve adjuster covers and giving it a go.
I use Hylomar Blue on the rocket box covers. I flatted them back with a stone so don’t need paper, but I don’t let it dry I fit them straight away. The box base gaskets on this one I originally fitted just the standard gaskets but the Hylomar will be being used when I refit them as they did weep a little. At least with all the leaks we always have fresh oil, every cloud and all that… 😂
@@robthoreson8384 Grease is all you should be using on paper gaskets, or Wellseal at most. Something I was taught 40 years ago. "But, but grease is a lubricant, how can it seal?". The gasket is the sealer and all it needs is something to help bed it in to the opposing faces. Copper gaskets, even new ones should be annealed by heating to bright red. Up to you if you quench them or not. Depends if you're in a hurry but quenching also removes most of the soot. When they punch the shape and the holes in copper, they work harden at the edges
I've never had any major issues with clutches and I'm quite happy with the clutch cable on these, nice and light. However my Suzuki GS has race springs on the clutch and I'm seriously considering a hydraulic clutch on that.
Fantastic clip I have a 1981 gs850g and since I’ve had it for over a year now I have a wee issue . At 5000 rpm about 70 mph it bogs down then I have to feather the throttle back . Idle is good and all ok up to 5000 rpm . I removed the airfilter and it goes above 70 with no problem . Just wondering if you could help please ? Thanks Dave from Scotland
TBH I think you've answered your own question, sounds like your air filter is restricting the air flow at higher revs. What type is it? Stock/pod etc. Has it always had this problem? If the filter is clean and unrestricted then you might need to go up a main jet size or two. I've found shed fault finding is OK but for the best results a Dyno is the best way to go as it will give you a picture of how the induction and exhaust systems are working throughout the rev range.
@@bodganeering Thanks for your info I really appreciate it . Yes it’s a stock filter and it’s been like this since I got the bike . I’ll try a new filter and try and get it booked in to check on a dyno . I haven’t a clue how to change the jet sizes 😀
The earlier workshop manual stated the spindle cap nut torque as 25 lb.ft, which had been carried over from the earlier design forks, so is most likely the reason for the cap being cracked. Your manual has the revised figure of 15 lb.ft which is correct.
Sooo... what's that long plug beside the one that you removed???? 😅 I removed the long one, and gear oil came out. PLEASE tell me I didn't botch something!!
The long plug gives you the correct oil lever. Both out to drain the oil, put the long one back in, fill with oil until you get a dribble coming out then fit the smaller one.
I'm new to British bike world but I just purchased a Bonneville 1977 kinda confused about putting the oil in the crankcase, does that total amount adds to the oil tank ? Any help confused in USA ... Thanks
The engine and the primary are linked by a couple of really small holes, you add the specified amount to the primary to make sure there's oil in there for the first start. The total amount of oil, as far as I know, is the for the tank, crank and primary. As long as its flowing and on the dipstick it'll be fine.
Do youall still make Whitworth wrenches there in the UK? I just bought some from amazon for my four Triumphs and they've got to be ground down to fit on the cylinder holddown nuts. Always enjoy watching how it's done across the pond.
They are still available but mainly online, we stopped using Whitworth in the 1960’s so they are becoming pretty rare. Unless you have really old bikes standard imperial spanners/sockets will fit. Thanks.
im not a Biker more of a Scooterist but gotta say nice looking chop you got there, and cool video thanks for sharing man i picked up a few tips atb from Edinburgh
What were your symptom's of the split seal? Do you know what the diameter of the crank is where it goes into the seal as I think mine may have been ground down. I know that you can fit 20thou undersize seals but I could really do with knowing what the normal diameter is. Thanks for posting the videos they're great.
I’ll be honest I don’t know the size of the seals off the top of my head. Split seals will give you a drop in oil pressure, mine started to come on when the bike was hot and the oil thinned a little allowing it to blow past the seal.
Great job, looks superb..you also clearly have the patience of a saint to do all that masking and detail. I'd have given up days before! Well done.. good video too, I learnt plenty..
I used a 13mm rotary burr to open out the worn hole....many cutting points are better than 2. I then machined a high tensile bush to suit...end result was perfect, no wobble.
@@bodganeering yea those caps collect moisture like nothing else :( its good to tare down the cap and lube up the springs for the latches. The get pretty grotty after a few years :)
Nicely done. Can't wait to see the finished product. I've painted a couple tanks with rattle cans and 2 part clear coat. They came out pretty good. Getting down those line with the tape can be tricky. I tend to eye ball it and then when I'm done all I can see are the imperfections from where I didn't take the time to measure it. : ) The next one I do I'm going to take my time with the lines.
The tape has bit me in the arse, it's contracted overnight and pulled the base coat in a little causing some creases and tears. Not a happy bunny. My own fault for being a little impatient. All will be revealed in the next enthralling instalment... Thanks.
It is better to fit the bearing spacers to the bearings before fitting the bearing as an assembly of bearing with spacer. If you tap in the spacer as shown you are transferring the impact force through the balls to the bearing race. You would have to redesign your tool so that you are tapping the outer race when you insert the bearing assembly. The Triumph workshop manual does advise this.
@@bodganeeringcheers ,I will have a try with the horse riding places.the ones on Amazon and eBay have got tubes and stuff.i really enjoy you’re videos it shows it like it is ,so I will be doing my first oil change on my triumph. I’m 71 in August and a bit wobbly after 2 mini strokes,I part exchanged my 1200 Harley sportster for it as the sportster was very heavy up top. It was a 2005 xl1200r so a rubber mounted one,the triumph by comparison is so light weight. I’ve still got the shovelhead bobber but the weight feels lower down.but not much good for flipping around the country lanes. It’s shit getting old.i now see why Elvis left the building.👍🇬🇧
That bracket is alright for a test piece it would want to be heavier than that piece of thin because the first stuck filter which most do even hand tight that you go to take off it will bend and twist it out of shape Good look with the job...
Great explanation. As a retired clockmaker, I am looking for a Myford. I have always worked with heavy lathes, but now that it has become a hobby I want to switch back to a smaller model. Actually, I have always been in love with a Myford. Just solid and English. greetings from Rotterdam.
I think Myford and Boxford are in the same league for smaller lathes, the VFD and three phase motor on the Myford has been a game changer, gives a lot more control. Thank you.
