Hello, I have a question about your waterglass/charcoal bowl coat. Is this treatment something you would apply in all cases of chamber char, or is it something you would reserve for more severely damaged chambers? I ask because I have restored (for personal use) some pipes with crazing and small fissures that I have been inclined to cake over with a careful break-in. I tend not to smoke fast or hot, but your video gave me pause. I am a bit embarrassed to admit that before your video I had not made the mental connection between a charred chamber and the strong tendency for previously charred firewood to more readily resume pyrolysis. I would love to hear your thoughts. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
I think I speak for most of us, PLEEEZZZE make more videos! This place that I visit every night, (your channel), has become my Bible and I am ready for more! If I wasn't 57 yes. old I would beg to be your apprentice but that would seem a waste of your time. You have the right idea by teaching many of us via RU-vid and we can all do with it what we will! Thank you so very much! Tom Schoen
I watch, and re-watch a few of your videos every night and it has become an addiction. You do a hell of a job of explaining your art and I thank you! I wonder, who taught you? Please make more videos. Tom Schoen from Hillsboro Oregon
I don't know if you are still answering questions so I will try! I have ordered a tenen cutter and I have a good old American drill press that was my grandfathers, I am not good at math, am I going to hit a brick wall or is there something I can get, like a book to help me? I really appreciate your videos and I love pipes and I have lots of time because I am retired and I am 56 years old. I'm working on pipes, just minor repairs on older pipes I purchased on ebay, and I want to learn. Thank, you for your time! Tom Schoen
hello from Dublin Ireland could you or give me advice on how to date dunhill pipes as I have 3 please help as it is driving me crazy thank you for your videos they are fantastic ☘️👍🧔🏻
I have learned so much from your videos. Thank you so much. I started about a year and a half ago and I now have restored about 100 pipes. It’s all I’ve done really for the past year. I’m revisiting yet again as it all makes more sense each time. Thanks to you I have bought a foredom flex shaft for that slow speed, adjustability and others. So much better than a dremel. I just bought some epoxy and pigment from your other videos. You’ve cost me money and made me money. Lol
Dear George, I'm wondering if there is an already existing insert tool for turning the tenon with a 45-degree chamfer at the base (for Dunhill / Ashton stems)?
Love your videos George, so much to learn for rank amateur hobby pipe restorers like myself! I’ve a basic question on staining a bare stummel. Is there any need to “set” the stain with a dilute shellac coat before applying the carnuba wax, or is that wasted effort? I’m assuming not, as you don’t seem to do it. Is it simply heat set it and on with the wax? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Hey George, your demo videos are awesome and the instructional dialogue you provide is first rate... nothing but 👍 from me. I return to the classroom often depending on the project. I have two similar questions: I acquired an old pipe from a fellow in Israel who knew nothing about it and the only marking on it is a C.A. in an oval. I have searched every resource I know and cannot ID it. However, it is in quite nice shape except for the stem. The stem has a full bend and an odd (to me) kind of bayonet mount and the whole stem is one piece made from bone or more likely horn. It is in fair shape except for some tooth wear and a pit in the top side of the bend (not through, but about 1/32" - 1/16" deep). I'm not sure of how to proceed with filling the pit and reworking the bite marks because of the material. Also, the second stem issue is on a very nice Aldo Velani with a straight stem of Lucite... the button is nearly chewed off on the bottom side. Repair or remake? I don't have much experience working with Lucite. Stay well and thanks, Hal
Hey George, I wish I knew you 45 years ago when I was in the retail pipe business here in New York. You do exactly what I wanted to do back then. ( I'm not saying you are in my age bracket). Your precision is Genius! I am working my way up on your videos from the beginning. Thank you. BTW, you would have made a Genius Saxophone mouthpiece maker.
George, I know the site is named “High-Grade Pipe Repair“, but for someone looking to get started at a hobby level, could you make some recommendations on quality entry-level equipment, I.E.buffers, buffing wheels, variable speed rotary tools, etc. I’ve looked over the site, but I haven’t found such a list. Thanks in advance! Steve
Hello. :) I'm afraid I haven't been involved with hobby level equipment since the "tooling scene" completely changed over to big box stores and Asian suppliers. Anything I might know is long out of date, in other words. Your best bet for info on such stuff would be the Pipemakers Forum. It is for hobbyists as well as pros, and covers everything related to the making of pipes. Highly recommended. www.pipemakersforum.com/forum/
Thanks for the great videos. I have learned a few tricks and when I suddenly think of a question, you generally answer it in the video a few moments later. I enjoyed the hot rod pipe video and the repairing manufacturing mistakes videos particularly. I think that is the sort of information a lot of hobby estate pipe restorers are after in their quest to save a few pipes. Many of these people, like me, can only dream of owning a high end collectable pipe or would rather fix an old pre-loved one to function "better than new". Generally, that sort of thing wouldn't be possible without people like yourself who are willing to pass on their experience in a meaningful way. As others have mentioned, I think that you may have underestimated your appeal to RU-vid viewers - its' a RU-vid cliche, but remind us to to subscribe and like your videos. Thanks again!
Dear George, I'm not sure you already heard about this tool or not! But you may be interested to check it for squaring the shank end. It's a tool that Pen makers use and they called it Barrel Trimmer. www.woodturningz.com/9-Piece-Barrel-Trimmer-Kit www.amazon.com/GHRF-Barrel-Trimmer-Mill-Kits/dp/B07Z3KK78T/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Barrel+Trimmer+Cutter+Kit&qid=1592126045&s=hi&sr=1-3 And also Yu Xuanjie (the Chinese guy who make specialty tools for pipe making) also made something similar to that and Rawcrafted also carries his tools as well rawkrafted.com/tools/drill-bits/carbide-cutter-three-blade-counter-sink-by-yu-xuanjie-1-00-25-4mm-with-3185-8mm-hole/
@@highgradepiperepairrestora3182 Thanks for the video dear Gerorge. I used to use all the methods you've mentioned in that video. I've tried your method with a piece of rod and sandpaper attached to it, It's the best and easiest method for sure. And also I've tried with the pipe stem and using a piece of sandpaper with a whole on it (with a same diameter of the stem tenon), It works for the rough job (but again it make the shank a little bit dome shape), so I need to make it perfectly flat on a perfectly flat surface as you mentioned many times. I use the pin gauge method all the time for the first stage and following by the sandpaper method to make it perfectly dead flat (I mean I don't want to have any light bleed between the joint (especially when I want to make the piece of ebonite ring on the bamboo end, I mean whoever it meets the stem. So it looks like a solid piece when the stem is fit on it)
Hi George, what size taper reamer are you using to modify your airway you used in the hot rod pipe. I looked for them and the sizes are either 4 or 5 mm at the large end? Didn’t know which way you leaned. Thanks 🙏
The only other way that can result in an equally durable fix is to embed a metal ring into the face of the shank that surrounds the tenon. It can't be done in all cases, however, and there are significant risks that depend on the inherent stability/solidity of the wood. If the wood is too soft and/or the procedure is not performed correctly, a "tube" of briar can be extracted cookie-cutter style. Also, the tools required to do it have to be fabricated for each pipe. Finally, there's a limit on how long of a crack can be dealt with. If the inserted metal tube is shorter than the length of the crack it can continue to split from outward pressure when a stem is inserted. Simply gluing a crack shut is possible and sometimes works long term. There are so many variables involved in that method that it's impossible to predict whether such a repair will last five minutes or forever.
Hey George. Wonderful information that you are providing. Amazing experience to share with us. Thanks you. Question. What is the type or brand of rotary tool you use. It’s fantastic. Also do you buy your burrs and bits from any particular company. Thanks again
From what I understand, he has two main rotatory tools. Both from Foredom (I think?), one is High Torque - Low speed. And the other one is normal speed/torque. The slow one is quite useful to cut stem slots, as he demonstrates in one of the videos, with the side-cutting bits.
@@HiRayWilliamJohnson That is correct. One low speed/high torque model, and one high speed reversible model. Their shop "roles" don't overlap much. Be aware when shopping for Foredom rotary tools that eBay is filled to the brim with Chinese counterfeits that work poorly and have a short life. Not recommended.
Hi George. I greatly appreciate your willingness to share your process with others. Your videos are informative and inspiring. My question for you is in regards to your stiff waxing wheel. There are so many different types of wheels out there, I was hoping you would share what material waxing wheel are you using? Cotton flannel, sewn Muslin, how many ply’s and stitch count you find works the best, and possibly where to find it. I greatly appreciate any advice you can provide. Thank you! - Ryan
I have many wheels of different types and use different ones for different tasks, even within the "realm" of waxing. I'm not sure how to answer, in other words. Here's a good source buffs and wheels of all kinds: www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing.html
Fantastic videos. Sorry if you have answered this but where can I buy the odd abrasive cone you used to rough up a vulcanite stem before an epoxy repair? Thanks, tmydosh@gmail.com.
I think your videos are fantastic, The quality of the video and sound is excellent, and you clearly put a lot of thought and effort into teaching the techniques you have developed. Thank you for that! When you have the opportunity I would love to see how you approach the shaping of a saddle stem.
Good evening Sir, I have been following your channel for a while and started to repair pipes too (I have a lot to learn). I brought a sandblast pipe to bare briar, but no way to fix color in it. It seems like fading when it dries. What could I use to obtain a natural finishing? Thank you very much for your help, take care
Hi George. Thanks so much for these videos they really are a treasure chest of jewels. My question is about tenon fitting on standard stems. The problem is wood expands and contracts according to humidity and ambient temperature. You can cut a tenon with perfect fit one day to find it too loose on the next. What is the best way to approach fitting a tenon? If you you've covered this already just point me to the video! Cheers.
In general, higher quality wood is more dimensionally stable, so the problem you describe occurs less often with "name brand" pipes than run of the mill ones. That said, the worst case of instability I've ever seen was a pipe made by a respected top-tier pro who uses only the best briar obtainable. There's really nothing that can be done after the fact---meaning at the repairman level---to change the behavior of a given piece of wood. I've experimented with sealing the mortise with different substances, but never enough to determine if doing so did much good. (statistically Insufficient sample size + many variables = no meaningful conclusion) Regarding tenon fit, make sure that everything's as geometrically "pure" as you can make it, and go for the firm "hydraulic glide" when tuning.
I've thoroughly enjoyed each and every one of your videos. I think you may have underestimated your appeal to a more diverse audience. I'm a pipe smoker, but a carpenter by trade. I limit my pipe crafting to the occasional estate refurbishing and cob modding. But I'm fascinated by observing a master craftsman at work. I also subscribe to channels by master boatbuilders, wagon makers, and a blacksmith. I especially like your hot rod pipe concept. I can relate to that much more than the many hundred dollar collectables.
Thank you very much. Both of the scraper videos were truly a master class in making specialized tools. I will be making both. Thanks for including measurements, I have a HSS blank for my lathe that should work perfectly.
Love the series. One tool/ operation I would like your take on is cleaning the mortice on the stummel. Some pipes I work on have a thick cake of tar that defy alcohol and brushes etc. I’ve seen a variety and of homemade knives and scrapers employed and am curious what you use.
Hi George. Love your series. I was hoping you were going to also remove the carbon from the rim in the cake removal video. The one that was on the far left was a prime candidate. I don’t have any that are that bad but would like to see your approach when tackling such a job. Thanks and best regards.
Just now finished the Hot Rod pipe's first bowl. Everything went exactly as desired/intended/hoped. Effortless draw, intense flavor, stayed lit, and didn't get hot (because the flavor intensity slows your puff rate, I imagine). And the stem is mega-comfortable. Tongues and lips are super sensitive, and a total absence of angularity & sharp edges is something that registers instantly and is subconsciously appreciated the entire time. Such a button will make you wonder why it isn't the industry standard. Overall score on a ten scale? Absolutely a ten. :)
Your hot rod turned out great, George! I think it's absolutely beautiful, including your Dunhill Dozen dots. I guess this means your pipe six times better than a Clarence Mickels, who used two white dots because he said his pipes were twice as good as a Dunhill. I bet it will prove to be among your favorite pipes to smoke.
Great videos! I’m learning a lot! On the torch burn repair video- with that water glass coat, there would be no need for a “bowl coating” of any other kind correct? It was hard to tell in the video but it looked like you got that coating all the way throughout the chamber. Also- there are no safety hazards to using the water glass and heating it up correct? I’m very excited to try this technique!
What the video showed is a technique that splits the difference between truly (i.e. completely & heavily) coating a chamber's walls, and taking no action, relying on luck that it won't continue to burn in the crazed/cracked/charred areas. Technically, the entirety of the chamber's surface is coated, but the undamaged areas are covered by a layer of carbon/waterglass only a few molecules thick. Any burn-damaged areas are filled to level, though, in the same manner as an asphalt patch applied to a roadway chuckhole. The key is the thickness/consistency of the carbon & waterglass mixture. Soft enough to fill the low spots, but thick enough that it doesn't 'soak" into the undamaged areas of wood. The heavy pressure + friction rotation procedure---DO NOT STOP UNTIL THE EXCESS FALLS OUT IN LITTLE BEADS/STRINGS/PILLS---is what makes sure no more waterglass than necessary is applied. Smearing a thick layer around a chamber, stopping, and letting it harden will result in what amounts to an impermeable ceramic lining that can't be removed without significantly enlarging the chamber's diameter via sanding (it soaks into and bonds with wood). That is NOT what you want.
Thank you VERY much for all of your videos. I looked thru all of the comments & don't think this was asked: Can you sequentially number the parts of the vids in a project? Extremely difficult to track.
They are already numbered. :) On the "home page" of this channel click "playlists". Then, when you're on the playlist "master page", click the BOTTOM LINE of text under any of the lists which appear which says "SHOW FULL PLAYLIST". (clicking anything else will start playback) Here's what you'll see: ru-vid.com/group/PLFwwtvtKlXW8w9ytBl8M2h31pTefwsjkd You can then choose to view whatever you like, and keeping track is easy because they're... numbered! (yay!) Plus, on most computers, if you stop watching a video and come back to it later, it will restart where you left off. (I'm sure it's a cookie thing) In addition to that, know that each channel home page has its OWN mini-search engine. Look for a little Sherlock Holmes-style magnifying glass.
Dear George, I've seen pretty much every videos that you've posted on RU-vid, including "Professionally shaping and polishing the button of a pipe stem" which is very informative for me. I've designed and made 5 different style of stem bit (1st || shape [I mean by that flat crease & flat bottom face] - 2nd |) [flat crease & dome/parentheses like shape bottom] - 3rd |( [I think they call it fishtail style] - 4th (( [dome shape crease & fishtail bottom face] - 5th () (dome shape on both parts). I've tested them by holing on my teeth and i found the 5th one is more stable when i grab it with my teeth (I mean it has better grip and less movement etc.)... I would like to know your idea about different styles of bottoms, and also a question of mine: what is the basic/standards of stem bit? my second question is about your video "Ornamental Shank Reconstruction PART 5 -- Airway geometry surprise" : you've spoken about the angel of the airway on that case, i would like to ask what should i do if i want to make a (full) bent shank pipe with an extension? Is it OK to drill the airway and mortise with an angel (but centered where they meets) and also insert a SS tube for reinforce the join, and most important thing that you've mentioned: prevent to hard carbon build up in the airway? Thank You for sharing the tips and your knowledge, Best Regards
Hi Saeed, I 'm not any sort of designer or inventor, just a copier of existing things. I leave deciding what's good and bad about a stem's shape to those who make pipes. I sometimes alter existing stem's to someone's preference in the manner of a clothes tailor, but only on request and when an accompanying pattern/model is provided. As for being able to ream a pipe's airway with a drill bit from end to end, that's an absolute requirement to qualify as a long-lived functional pipe. Any design that cannot be maintained in that way is unacceptable without exception.
@@highgradepiperepairrestora3182 I nearly got it! But i'm still confused! Actually thinking about how to correctly making a bamboo shank pipe blown my mind... I would like to put some links (of bamboo shank or horned shank pipes) that it seems have the same problem that you've mentioned before. I'm pretty sure that there is an angel on the airway of them. we can only ream the airway until we reach the bamboo/horn end of the SS tube... So, making a horn extension bent, or using any curved bamboo (that we can't drill all the way through it from one end) is not acceptable, right? In the other word, I should drill the airway when the extension is attached! www.scandpipes.com/pipes/636-gustavo-cunha---martelo/6220-jatoba/ www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/Doctors/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=322282 www.scandpipes.com/pipes/150-htokutomi/3716-7-knucke-bamboo/ www.scandpipes.com/pipes/499-chris-asteriou/4707-blast-tomato/ p.s. about the last pipe it seems, if we want to ream it with a drill bit, we need to cut through the bamboo's boxwood extension!
@@saeednazarli5117 You've officially left the realm of this channel and entered that of the Pipemaker's Forum. :) There is 16 years worth of discussion about hardcore pipe making, broken down by topic, and all in one place. The best resource of its kind on the planet. Join, and pursue your design questions there. You'll be glad you did. Most of the participants are professionals, and they're always eager to help. www.pipemakersforum.com/forum/
@@highgradepiperepairrestora3182 Dear George, I am sorry for continuing this discussion. I'm going to made an Topic on PMF. But maybe I got your idea in a bad way, so you can correct me in the beginning. Actually I read pretty much every topics about bamboo's on PipeMakersForum . I've re-checked some topics about making bamboo shank pipes on PMF. But never heard about that point. (maybe i was blind about that!). I am making pipes for about three years now (made couple of pipes with bamboos). This is the Tyler Lane's topic about making bamboo's too: pipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_Shanks Actually pipe makers drill the bamboos from two ends half away through to meet in the middle. So, if the bamboo wasn't nearly straight, we'll have an angel there. So we are not able to pass a bit through that even it's not attached to the stummel!
@@saeednazarli5117 Some pipe makers pursue shapes that require KNOWN flaws in functionality to "make happen." They figure that once such a pipe has been sold, what happens isn't their problem anymore. Whether that approach is the result of ignorance, laziness, or apathy is irrelevant, I strongly disagree with it in every case. (As does every high grade pipe maker I've talked to about it.)
was wondering if can do a upclose view of how you match a sandblast pipe by using your foredom tool. plus any other rustication secrets you have. great videos!
I got as close as physical circumstances would allow when texturing that Redbark ODA, and let the camera run for several minutes to show the angles, speeds, and technique used. What's already been posted is the best I can do, in other words. To see more would require seeing the process in person. Unless I'm misunderstanding your request? If so, please describe in greater detail. Thanks.
Great channel. Very good information. I highly recommend keep showing your work sir. On the charred bowl repair. This is the same style pipe makers use for doing there bowl coats so you don't have to break in pipe correct?
Pipe makers use all manner of recipes for bowl coatings, ranging from a waterglass "glass coat" that's effectively a ceramic insert, to grape jelly with a bit of charcoal powder. Many use nothing at all. It's a highly contentious subject. Some smokers don't mind coated bowls, saying that they don't even notice; while others refuse to own a pipe that's been coated. Me? I try to split the difference by using it only as a rescue measure. To stop a charred pipe from getting worse and/or eventually burning through.
Hi George. First and foremost thank you for sharing your knowledge. After watching the "Cosmetically Topping and Refinishing a English Classic" video I couldn't help but think: why not just brass brush the nomenclature stamping prior to sanding the stummel? Its seems like it would alleviate the need to sand over the stamping a second time to remove the brush marks. Also thanks for posting up the waterglass video... You may have just saved one of my old Kaywoodies...
Regarding when to clean out the stamping, as long as it's before staining all should be well. The main thing to avoid is packed-in briar dust "sponging" stain and resulting in a darker-than-its-surroundings nomenclature. When that happens it's like a flag which says "I was refinished! I was refinished!" Needless to say that's NOT what you want. ;-)
Hi George. Amazing info you are sharing here. In the video set titled "Correcting a Pipe's Manufacturing Defects", you mentioned that the hole that was drilled through the stem by the factory was not centered. Are there any cases where it might have been a good idea to center it? I ask because I like your method of turning the stem against a sanding belt using an aircraft bit and hand drill. Is that method used only when making new stems? Have you ever come across an instance where you might have wanted to actually center a badly drilled airway using the drill press and custom vise set up you have? Also, if it is possible to center a badly drilled airway, is it possible to center it on a bent stem? Sorry for the deluge of questions here but this set of videos has me very curious.
I can think of no instance where an off-center draft hole in a stem caused a functional problem, as long as the tenon was large enough in diameter to "handle" it structurally. (Too far off on a thin/small tenon CAN lead to difficulties in some circumstances, though. But that sort of manufacturing error is almost unheard of except with so-called "basket pipes" that aren't cost efficient to repair in any event.) As for how an off-center draft hole could be corrected, I don't think it would be possible in any practical sense. Much easier & less expensive to simply replace it.
Thanks for clarifying this. I tend to work on lower end and mid grade pipes so I can hone my skills before I work on any of the higher grade specimens. I will keep what you said in mind. Looks like it's time for me to practice making stems. Thanks again for sharing your wealth of great information!
I enjoyed the Dunhill error corrections video and would like to see more of the same. Look forward to the next project. I have to recommend Rawkrafted too, Premal has been very helpful and couldn’t be kinder. Thanks for the time and effort into your videos. It’s appreciated
I'm delighted you are enjoying this stuff. Thanks for the feedback. 10-4 on showing more "makeovers". Doing them is satisfying at the most basic level. It's like discovering your workbench is a fantasy super-tool that's part time machine and part alternate reality generator, and has been all along. :)
Some of those old pipes are sort of a time capsule. Taking the time to study one of them, all hand worn with the dents and dings and cake built up. Seems like they can talk if you’re of the mind to listen.
Yes. The surface must be well prepped, and the epoxy itself tinted with pigment designed for the task to achieve a good result, though. Also---when you think you are done mixing, mix some more. Time yourself with a kitchen timer if you have one, and adjust according to temperature (colder = longer). If not thoroughly mixed, epoxies will not completely cure, and you'll have a big-time mess on your hands (nothing will dissolve it, it must be cut away).
You previously showed how to expertly replace a missing piece of shank, doing an excellent job. Would it be possible to replace a missing piece from the upper edge of the bowl (a chunk missing all the way through to the tobacco chamber)? Thanks for the informative videos. Cheers, Frank.
Hi Frank. I see no reason missing bowl wood couldn't be replaced in the same way, as long as long as the adhesive used wouldn't fail from the heat. Extreme temperature metallized epoxy analogues are commonly available, and it's hard to imagine something designed for high temps would outgas when heated. (Meaning produce off flavors). It's worth a try, anyway. If you decide to take a swing at it please report back! :)
Hi George. Thank you for your response. I currently have System Three T-88 epoxy on hand. Do you think this would work? If not, can you recommend a high heat epoxy that might work for this repair? Cheers, Frank.
@@Frankowillo Don't use T-88 for high heat applications. It comes undone around the boiling point of water. There are any number of recipes that will stay solid at much higher temps than a pipe bowl gets, though. I do NOT know if they will adhere well to wood, however. I've never repaired a pipe in that way. You'll have to experiment.
Hello first things first I must say you are a true craftsman I Was wondering if you are taking on new projects, if so I have a GBD collector series poker that needs a new stem my email is hilld777@yahoo.com. Thank you and Happy Holidays
Hi George, love the videos! I have a Dunhill Tanshell bulldog stummel with a crack in the shank. Instead of putting a band on, do you favor the internal repair of a sleeve in the mortise? If so, can you do a video of a cracked shank repair? I can donate my stummel for the project. Mark
Hi, Mark --- I haven't covered banding (internal or external) because of materials requirements. The key to success is having EXACTLY the right size(s) of bands, tubing, and so forth at hand BEFORE starting a project because small dimensional differences have a huge effect on the outcome. That translates into either A) buying several thousand dollars worth of stuff you'll likely never use; or B) trying to "make do" with stuff that's not ideal and/or exactly the right size, virtually assuring failure. Neither situation is something I want to encourage people to get tangled up in.
Hi George, thanks for the detailed videos, the latest is awesome. Was the tenon turned from the rod or is it a delrin tenon? Probably not delrin if you wanted a more authentic stem? Thanks, Mark
Hi Mark. The faceted stem's tenon was integral. Meaning it was turned from the rod. Authenticity is job #1 when working on old classics, and Dunhill has always used integral tenons on all its lines and models.
Hello George. Just binge-watched your latest set of videos with the Dunhill ODA 838, fascinating stuff! I have just one comment, or request, as a Dunhill guy and collector. I'd like to see a full shot of the nomenclature in the final "still" shots.......... These videos are not only very useful for pipe repair guys, but are near pipe-PORN for us Dunhill guys! I own a 1953 838, and from a collector guy standpoint, would have loved to see a nomenclature shot. I know the intent of your series is to showcase the nuts and bolts of your work, but I think these videos would be valuable to collectors too. Just a thought. Thanks- Matt
Hi Matthew -- Excellent idea. I'll do it from here on out, and just added an additional volume to the end of the 838 set of nomenclature stills. (No idea what the stand-alone numeral 9 means, btw)
Hi George, I have a cheap 8"drill press and want to upgrade. Should I look for a floor drill press or will a 13" bench model work for stem drilling and tenon replacement? Thanks in advance, Mark
The drill press "C" shape is an inherently a weak design, and since they must be rigid to work well that requires mass. In a nutshell, bigger & heavier is better. As for the word "work," that depends on what you are trying to do. Making pipes functional again is a very different activity than trying to duplicate their old parts exactly. You best drill press bang-for-the-buck is the surplus/used market. CNC machines now do what humans used to, so human operated commercial-grade industrial machinery is obsolete. Easy to find and inexpensive in many parts of the country. (the catch is usually moving it)
