Join me as I indulge my passion for mucking about with cars. This channel is as much for me to remember how something came apart so that I have a fighting chance of putting it back together again but if it helps someone else then thats a bonus. It's a warts and all channel so mistakes will be shown as well as the successes. Thanks for looking, Chris :-)
When I rebuild a Stag engine, (had mine 31 years, done 330,000 kms in it, from 93 to 99 was my only/everyday car); I usually put the heads on in the car, as I find that easier. Engine goes in easier with the heads off as well/more clearance. Each to their own, but works for me. I have two short studs with screwdriver ends that go into the lower "short bolt" holes that locate the head gasket and the head will then locate on. Get the rest of the head bolts in, then undo those studs with screwdriver. I pulled out the ridiculous orig studs the first time I had my heads off (first year I had my car) and took a week to get them out, as corroded in. Lots of soaking with penetrene. I have probably disassembled half a dozen Stag engines, some were beyond saving (well, heads stuck in place, got them all off, but a couple beyond repair) but most came off, but some took forever and major drama to remove, but those studs just are NOT worth the hassle. I replaced mine with high tensile socket/allen head bolts, been in there since 1993, ALWAYS come straight off. Best thing I ever did. As said below, fit and torque one head, then fit inlet manifold, then fit other head. It's a juggling act, but always worked for me. And I have had a couple of inlet manifolds on mine with various intake combinations as experiments. It is back to std (orig CD's) now. Although first thing I did was put helicoils in all 12 inlet manifold bolt holes in the head. Nothing worse than last bolt (always the last one!!!) starts to "feel loose/never tighten" so you know it is stripped. Don't risk it, put helicoils in = never a problem. Good video though.
It's very dangerous to lift a P5B leaving the rear axle unsupported. Old rubber rear Y bushes can suddenly break away resulting in the whole very heavy running gear crashing down😮 The front calipers are OE Girling.
Its so nice to see the old school ancillaries, so much better than the single use, plastic crap we see on the cars of today. Thanks for keeping this stuff alive.
I have built a few Stag engines. You fit & torque 1 cylinder head. You then loosly fit the 2nd head. Then the inlet manifold is fitted & torqued to both heads before finaly tightening the 2nd head. erly crushes the inlet manifold in place. To remove the inlet you have ti 1st slacken 1 cylinder head.
Hi Chris, A massive piece of advise, you’ve had the crank re ground, have you had it Nitrided or at least tuftrided? The Stag crank is not a cast item like most cars, it is made of steel and factory Nitrided to give a case hardening, this gets ground off. As these are classic and hence old cars, modern engineering companies may not know and not harden the journals, you then assemble and carefully run in and in a thousand miles or less your crank is trashed. Please double and treble check with your engineer it could save your rebuilt and expensive engine. 👍
Hi I think your channel is great ,Thank-you. Can you do an instuctional video on the instalation of a new Distributor on my Triiumph V8 engine ,to include posiotion of Rota Arm. At TDC. Kind Regards.Barrie.
A major problem with the Triumph Stag was extremely poor airflow through the radiator. You can fit a double core radiator and it still overheats. The solution is air outlets behind the wheel arches. It’s definitely not factory original but you’ll now get air flowing through the radiator.
Interested in the head gaskets you use. Making some good progress with your build. I've had 8 months reliable motoring out of my present stag, even with the Australian summer heat it never overheated, I've only had ignition problems which are sorted now, theirs a lot of truth about using them as my engine sounded like an old biscuit tin when I got it, but now sounds really good, also going to convert the the canister oil filter to spin on in the near future. Cheers
Yep watch with interest, when we look at the engine quite simple ,, built with care should last for years , built motors recent and worked on them in the day , no problems , the very early stags had dodgy cooling expansion bottle via the rad cap , thanks for sharing look forward to next episode !
Haha, 'a really good fit without using sealant as it would have come out of the factory'. I love the Stag I have one) but I'm pretty sure a really good fit is better than the factory managed
Yep splendid , there's no stag engine build filmed yet so it is welcomed, when we had them in the garages we jet washed all the oilways and head oilways blow air dryed then pre filled with engine oil , we part fitted the manifold first and front cover then tightening the head bolts down with good gaskets , DESPITE what you hear we never had any problems , retorq head after 1000 miles , and maintain there afterwards , thanks for sharing,
@@Horsleyclassics hiya, I brought the glue, but my Stag is locked away in its Carcoon, just waiting for better weather to get it out, then I’ll have a go at gluing the split in the dash
Hi the rings twist until the tabs align with the gaps in the rim, however they may need some help due to the old seals and in my case a bit of rust and I used a screw driver to gently scrape and pry the tabs up a little
thanks for your video. It helped me well. There are 4 holes on the front side, 3 are used for the bracket. Can you tell what the 4th is meant for? (it's been a while since I took it off the car and I don't remember. I also don't see any indication on the parts book or the workshop manual...
Thanks for the video mate. I'm waiting for my ignitor 2 and coil to arrive after the piranha failed. I bought an after market distributor and that has also failed ! Problem is I'm in Australia and luckily found a pertronix supplier in Melbourne. I was going to fit points and condenser but electronic fit once and drive. I had a piranha on my last stag in the UK before emigrating and it never gave me problems compared to the twin point base plate troubles. Cheers looking forward to seeing more content on your engine construction.
With the ignition off the rod should move easily, if it’s stuck then try to free it up by doing what I did, just keep going with lube until t moves freely, if you can’t get it to free up then the vanes will be the issue, turbo off time I’m afraid 😧
@@Horsleyclassics thanks very much for the reply I am dreading doing the turbo 😭 will anything free up the veins ? I was going to drill a very small hole in it and try spray in a cleaner, then drive a grub screw into the hole or something like that, don’t know if I’ve space though, I’d try anything rather than do the turbo 😩
@@Horsleyclassics I ended up removing the oil feed banjo bolt, and very gently with a long flat head and a hammer I gently tapped it back keeping it sprayed with spray oil, and pulling it back with a long pick with a hook on it,eventually it came free and then it would allow me do it’s sweep with the ignition on and off, driving fine now with loads of power thank god, I put in two stroke oil into the diesel last night, the lads on the LR forms swear by it to keep the veins lubed, thanks again for the help 🤞
Nice set of Videos - next one you do it might improve things if the camera was Nearer / Above the Assembly Area to see in detail how it is Reassembled. Just a small observation
Thanks DebNeil, yes I agree, however the good thing is you can zoom in on youtube now, I think its more when using an ipad or tablet that you can do this.
Put the oil at the top of cylinder, keep the tool constantly and consistently moving too. First video I've seen on here in awhile that shows someone doing this 100% correct. Nice job.
