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If i have 170000 miles on my 98 4.6 northstar and do this, how long do you think my engine will be good for? (My engine does not currently over heat nor has it ever)
I got one just about the same thing had mice rats get into it they cut almost every wire in the truck spent like $1,500 getting it fixed and still can't drive it, I think they cut a hoe in the fuel line
@@MB031 with the vehicle safely lifted and supported I had a helper shake the wheel side to side as if checking the tierods and I was watching the movement
@@vicarod That fixed the problem? I know another issue is no heat/A/C coming from the front vents, is usually when the vacuum line under the hood goes bad or isn’t connected, but if this helped to fix the issue glad to help.
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair Yeah. I manually moved the door until the actuators are delivered. I think they've been broken a while. It was my neighbors car, and we bought it when he passed for our 16 y/o
Mines doing something similar except it’s not fully seized , it’s just constantly engaged it drives and stops normals but while driving can hear a grinding noise, replacing it today hopefully it’s the slide pins just being dry etc so I can hit them with a wire wheel lube them up and changed the brakes and be done with it 🤷🏽♂️
@@outcome2715 yeah it most likely is the slide pins/caliper bracket, if it continues being an issue next step is checking the brake hose and caliper, cracking the bleeder open would see if the hose is bad if no brake fluid comes out or if it sprays out after pumping it up a little. Not sure your experience level but that’s what I would do
My shifter button is like pressed in and won't release but I can pull the button back out but it's loose. And my key won't turn to off position since it started doing It. Any ideas
@@Meoffjackk01 Common issue with these cars. Can’t come to me at the moment but it’s something to do with the park release with the shifter and that button also, might have a spring in there. Mine had the same issue.
I figured it out after I replaced the plug in it still did it. I looked and the metal piece is bent so it's grabbing on that plastic piece and not letting it come up. I can manually pull it up but it's hard and the key comes out. What is the metal piece called with the plastic piece in it? @@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair yes, I replaced the plug that goes to the solenoid, fixed another problem I had but kinda tied to this problem as well. So I got to looking and it's bent just the tiniest but. It don't take much it must be a tight fit with the plastic being in there. I can manually pull it up with pliers and it lets me take the key out and everything is good. I can put it in drive just fine after I manually reset it but I gotta reset it every time to take the key out. I couldn't find this problem anywhere else they all said change the solenoid, or the plug. Which I did the plug. But I did remember slamming it thing to fix the other problem so I guess I deserve it lol
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair yeah, and that makes sense. I think I'll try to bend it back, seems like an awkward part to ask for lmao not many people probably don't bend these to often
Thank you!! Just got a 2000 el dorado and the hvac is barely blowing out air in my front vents but my back vents are working wonderfully!! Thinking I need to check this now
Let me know how this goes! If not I have a video or two on replacing the blend door actuators, there’s two, usually on the passenger side one behind the glove box and one below it accessible from below
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair hey! Do not YM hvac class today I tested my A/c system and it was fine but you were right! My line snapped in two and also the bigger hose connected to the T fitting was so deteriorated. Replaced all of that and worked wonderfully! So thank you! I found out where to look bc of your video
I've personally witnessed this. Customer mixed green ethylene glycol with dexkill. GM recommended "replace long block, pump, radiator, heater core and all coolant hoses" Customer left their S15 blazer at the shop and said just keep it.
2010 chevy impala, driver side vents not blowing cold like the passenger side until its circulated thru for a few mins. Replaced driver side actuator hoping to fix the issue. Still having the same issue. Any ideas? Any help is most appreciated!
Almost seems like the vent isn’t opening all the way, if it was it would be cold. Either another bad blend door or the switch for the driver side is an issue.
2 styles of engine coolant temperature gauges. Digital, Analog(mostly on Eldorados, Sevilles and Deville Concours). It might be normal for the temperature gauge to fluctuate over half way slightly especially in hot temperatures. What you can do is find out what the actual temperature is with a scan tool of yours doesn’t display in numerical form. I prefer to not see my temp over 228, up to 225 is “normal” but the cooler, the better. Make sure you’re running an OEM thermostat. Make sure the purge line isn’t clogged. Before everything else make sure the coolant is at the proper level, if you have vanishing coolant, make sure if it’s physically leaking on the ground, you repair that first, also think about “why” that failed(failed water pump?) if at idle you rev your engine and the coolant temperature gets hotter rather than cooler you might have a flow issue. Use a block tester/combustion leak test kit to see if your head bolts have failed. Yes head bolts, these engines don’t normally have bad “head gaskets” if your car runs fine but still have orange dexcool coolant. Especially if it’s original, drain it. Remove your thermostat, run straight distilled water + a coolant system flush as directed to flush the coolant system, drain afterwards. I’d refill with clean water again and run again and drain again, then add universal coolant of your choice commonly referred to as “green” coolant or “yellow”. The dexcool is what causes issues because it corrodes between aluminum and iron the worst. If you see white clouds from your exhaust, you’re in for an engine rebuild or swap.
У моей компании есть четыре одинаковых вилочных погрузчика, только у одного остался оригинальный двигатель. Остальные трое находятся на третьем или четвертом двигателе соответственно. Всего одиннадцать грузовиков, и все они были заброшены, пока меня не наняли. 😂 P.S. Google translate, I only know like three words in Russian, hopefully this translates correctly
Im thinking of doing this to my ‘99, it only has 30k miles on it but I don’t want it to end up as a trash car. Was it that bad of a job to do? I’ve only done engine work on large diesels never on a gas motor, and never drilled and tapped head bolts. As of now the car runs fine, with the A/C on it never seems to go above 203 degrees, but with it off at idle it will run up to 222, Im assuming thats normal since the fans don’t kick in until then. Nice to see another one of these surviving out there, hopefully I can join the bulletproof northstar group some day.
Although I went to school for auto repair this was technically my biggest solo job, just watching RU-vid videos. I’ve already driven my car 13,000mi since this repair and no issues. It’s really not bad, lot of info online to consult to. I was surprised because everybody hyped this up as a horrible job and it’s really not
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair I’ll have to look into it, Im assuming you dropped the subframe out instead of trying to lift the engine out? If thats the case I would need to find someone with access to a lift. I would like this engine to survive for decades from now since I dont plan on getting rid of this car anytime soon. Eventually all of these non studded northstars will end up in a garbage pile and there will only be the studded handful left making them rare. The car drives great, sounds great, and so far has treated me well so down the line I’d be willing to put the time and money into it to make it last a lifetime, the way it should have been in 1993.
@@MorbidMansion I pulled my engine out of the top, easier. The spare engine I dropped the subframe at my tech school shop, might have a hard time if the subframe bolts snap in the body. Not bad to do it from the top
Not too bad, best to have an impact for those bolts, battery or electric, by hand tool method will work too. Might be a challenge lining up the bolt holes on the new ones, but it’s possible to do, a jack, hammer and pry bars and screw drivers make it better
Good intentions but the engineers must’ve been drunk not to realize the coolant would’ve caused corrosion with the steel bolts and aluminum, and a half case? Stupid design I’ll agree. Although these are very easy to work on.
How to really know if the manifold failed? Is it visual cues? Because I have a '97 LeSabre with about 55k miles and I just want to be on guard to mitigate any potential catastrophic damage
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