In this channel, you'll tag along with me as build things like trailers and trucks, Hot Rods, Custom wiring harnesses etc. There is no limit to what I'll get into in the shop. Hope you enjoy! Please consider supporting us simply by buying us a coffee. www.buymeacoffee.com/Frontpagefab
Howdy there, did you say you had that power steering pump bracket custom made? I need something like that. I was going with a front engine accessory serpentine kit from cvf racing, and unfortunately, their power steering pump bracket is so low that before I can get the pump on, it hits the top of my steering gear. 😅 I'd rather not convert to electric power steering if i can help it so did you make that bracket yourself, or did you pay a shop to do that?
As much as I hated hated the air ride on my 2022 ram 1500 limited, I absolutely love the factory rear air.. the bags are huge and work amazing. Pulling 12500 and the drop doesn’t sag 1/4”. Plus factory control over he bags with leveling or letting all air out of the bags
@@xGR1MxREAPERx factory air ride will probably be on my next truck. Since doing this video, I added the air wireless one system. It sure beats carrying an air tank all the time.
LOL great catch.. When I was ready to buy back in early 2020, Ram had about 8 grand in rebates, and a family friend retired from Chrysler, so he got me a friends and family discount which netted an additional $1500. Ford had nothing for rebates and couldn't/wouldn't get close to the price of the Ram. I decided I'd rather have the $9500 in my pocket more then I wanted the Ford, so I bought a RAM..
I am in the process of replacing the 3.0 and the automatic, in my 2000 Ranger, with a Holley carb 302 and a T5 5 speed out of an 86 Mustang & no air - other than the management of the engine/auto trans, what else runs through the computer and how much of the computer do I really need to retain anymore? I need it to start and run like an old Ford - I also need to worry about all exterior lights, heater, dash board, gauges, horn, charging system and things like that - thanks
Sounds like a fun project. I don't have experience with the newer stuff. You might have an issue with the speedometer and fuel pump going through the computer. I don't think the other electrical things you mentioned go through the computer. If you replace the OEM gauge cluster with aftermarket, then the computer is not used at all. Head over to www.therangerstation.com/ for your research. facebook.com/groups/223037006075044/ is another one.
Thanks for watching Christian. Interesting. If you look at the first 5 pictures in the link in my description, the brackets match what I showed in the video. The brackets in the 6th picture match Air lift 57345 shown in this link. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFRZWO/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=I4L5pnxgov
I can't see how all the people that gave you good comments could here what was being said. I watch YT vids with my TV and your volume control sucks between the actual voice volume and that loud music. I turn the volume up to here what you're saying and them the loud music comes in and I have to turn the volume down so the music isn't blaring through out the house. Also you should wear a microphone of some sort so your volume stays the same all the time. Sorry for giving you an unhappy comment.
First off, thanks for watching the video. If you notice about 13 minutes in, I am wearing a wireless mic. I purchased it during the making of the video. I am upgrading the video/audio equipment as I can afford to. Also, I find it interesting that out of 12,000 views, you are the first one to complain about the volume.
@@Frontpagefab Hmm...Sorry to upset you...I understand the cost of equipment and there is a significant difference between the beginning and the later audio. That microphone that your using needs to be returned...not good...and get rid of the music, I'd rather watch an hour long vid with no fast forward and listen to every word said instead of listening to music during fast forward. Ask James Condon the Generator Repair Guy...now he has good audio and vids.
@@Frontpagefab bought back my high school ranger from my younger brother. he was going to sell it and I just gave him back what he gave me for it. I dont need it for a daily. So I will be looking at the yards for a donor car. Thanks for your videos they help me understand what im getting into haha.
I Have a 2017 Hustler Raptor . No SD , No XD, Fastrack , Just a Raptor ! 23 HP Kawasaki ! And Honestly Besides keeping the oil Changed and Air Filter Blown Out I Hadn't done anything But Pump the tires up and Mow,, about 6 acres worth ! But recently The Deck belt , Drive belt was constantly getting chewed up , or breaking or flying off ! and the Hydro's were getting weak ! and their not " Serviceable" or able to Change the Fluid ,,,, Well That's BS ! With Very little outta pocket cash , I jacked it up , Removed Both Hydro Pumps , Put the worst on my shop table and Opened it up ! Took A LOT of Pictures Cleaned it out , replaced a few O rings , Made all the Gaskets in Both Pumps , Filled with New Rotella Hydro 40W , Replaced all the old Broken Brackets with the kit you Used , Straightened , welded , fixed , New belts , Complete rebuild and reinforced the whole deck , Spindles , Took The Plastic shields of the bearing , drilled and Tapped for grease zerks , Blades , Tubes ! And I've got Better than Brand new Mower for about $400.00 for everything ! Love it !
Thank you, My wife and I used to use rakes, and make piles all over the yard. Now I use this and am done in a fraction of the time. You can see it in action here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6T6CIRNd4eg.html
Yes it put the shifter back a couple of inches it work great with bucket seats and it put the shifter next to the seat if you want the shifter in the stock spot you can put a s10 tellshaft housing on the transmission another problem is if you run a 4.10 gear first gear is almost useless but on lift kit needed if you want to run a 5 speed manual
If you had used a t5 or trimic the bell housing is removable and gives you more room the Trans. You are trying to install the bell housing is not removable
Thank you for the info. The bolts on the T5 or trimec trans are on the outside which does make that part of the install easier. However, from everything I have read on the internet, the shifter is further back and can interfere with the seats, also getting the slave cylinder set up correct is a pain. The M5Od is a straight forward install, once you know how to manuver past the non removable cross member. Having said all that, the T5 is probably a better transmission for higher hp engines.
Thanks for watching. I will try to get a video of it in action. We just finished rolling my dad's yard and mine and it performed great. I didn't notice it cutting into the yard, but I also didn't fill it with water because it actually worked well without the water.
Howdy! I have a question. Did you reuse the stock y pipe that connected the catalytic converters to the stock headers? I'm in the middle of a 302 swap in my 94 ranger.
@@Frontpagefab Thanks for the reply. I was actually asking about the custom exhaust. I have the same v8 swap headers you have, but I didn't know if you make & welded your own exhaust system or if you reused some of the stock piping.
Were you in high range on the hydro? If so, next year try it in low range. That 20hp diesel shouldn't bog that bad with a 14" bottom. You might try a depth gauge wheel too. Also make sure plow is running level in furrow, too much tilt forward and they will pull much harder. A properly adjusted moldboard plow doesn't take a ton of HP to pull unless the ground is real wet. The general rule is to set the depth at half the width or slightly more. Your 14" bottom will work best at no deeper than 7 to 8". My 1970 General Electric garden tractor only has a 1.5HP 36 volt traction motor and i can pull a 10" Brinly about 5 to 6" deep in sod and about 7" deep in previous garden ground without the amp meter going past the medium zone. I have run it to 8" deep once just to show off that it could pull it and it did but it worked the tractor noticably harder as the stated working depth for that plow as per Brinly is 6".
Hello and thanks for watching. Yes, it was in low range. There are a few problems going on with this plow. The biggest problem is someone took a 2 bottom and converted it to a one bottom. When they did this they used the back moldboard instead of the front, so the side to side alignment isn't right. The second is when they did the conversion, they flipped the alignment cam rather then re drilling the mounting holes so I can't get the moldboard aligned the way it should be. The other issue is with the tractor itself. The 3 pt doesn't have a position stop to lower it to the same place every time. I am going to send this one down the road at the next auction and keep looking for a better unit. Someday, I'd like to get a 40-50hp tractor and a proper 2-3 bottom plow.
@@jeremydavis2595 For sure. We have been gardening for as far back as I can remember (and I am going on 59). I am looking to expand our gardening to start doing the farmers market thing for a semi retirement gig.
What about getting a more narrow tiller for weed control, reason being is that corn grows roots in every direction so you essentially removed at least half of the roots. So what happens now is the corn for around a week or so is not growing, but it is repairing the center roots. Try to imagine any plant, say for instance a tree. They produce tons of roots and in all directions and depths. So the roots in approximately the top two inches try to soak up any water but it doesn't feed the plant, it uses the water to get stronger roots branching out in every direction, these are the roots that provide plant stability, so a gust of wind doesn't knock the whole section down. Below is the next set of roots, from around two & a half inches to around six inches deep, these are where the plant gets it's nutrients. Then on corn you will have one or sometimes several "tap" roots. These grow essentially straight down and are looking for continuous water supply. I'm not sure at what depth you are tilling but the plant now has almost all of it's roots intertwined in each other and staying in the row itself. So now instead of each plant having room in between the rows to stretch out, each plant is in direct competition with every other plant. That's why when we plant hundreds of acres of seed corn 🌽 we generally plant on 30 inch rows, and very few of us ever use a mechanical cultivator. If we damage the roots then there is a direct line to lower yields. I hope this helps you, and you have more sweet corn then ever before!!!🚜🌽🧺🧺
I had the same issue with the brackets on top, and I even followed their directions! Did it ever “flatten out” over time? I’m considering just leaving the top brackets off.
@@Frontpagefab I ended up loosening the middle bolts, adding the brackets in on top, tightening the bolts on those and then tightening the middle bolts back again. Here's to hoping no problems with that method!
So, are you going to take it apart and put it back together right? You have the receiver tube inside the cargo area, instead of underneath it. Oopsie! I guess you could have a big cooler play a game of see-saw in it, the way it is now. Mine is still fine after using it on maybe 100 days over the course of the last 7 years. It's a workhorse for something that's almost free.
Thanks for the tip! I ordered it through work. They cut and deliver what I need to the plant. I have another project in the works , so I’ll check with you guys on that.
I really like how you added the seal strip explained around 16:10 Do you know what the name brand of that stuff is? Was wanting to use the same method for my build. 🙂
I will look in the shop tomorrow to see if I have any left, but I am pretty sure it's just adhiesive backed rubber weatherstrip that I got at Autozone.
Yes it would if I could find one with a cat. 1 hitch. Actually this plow would work great, if the person that converted it to a one bottom had done it right.
Howdy! I know this has been a while back, but I have a few questions regarding this build. As fas as the engine mound adapter brackets, I ordered the same kit you did from trans-dapt. The bolt holes that secure the brackets to the crossmember are slotted, so where abouts did you position them? As far forward as possible, or did you have to take measurements and position each one differently? Also, as far as the ac box, did you hold your heat gun in one spot for a while or did you move the gun all around the area of the ac box? I'm in the process of putting a 302 in my ford ranger and I'm using your videos as a reference as I'm doing it. 😁
Hello and thanks for watching. I left those plates loose until I got the motor and transmission set in and the transmission cross member installed. I found that leaving them loose, let me slide the motor forward a bit to create a little more room to get the transmission input shaft past the pressure plate fingers. Regarding the A/c box, I moved the heat gun around to heat up a bigger area, then used a PH8A filter to massage the plastic. Also, look at the shape of the valve covers. This design worked better then the ones that have straight walls. One other tidbit I think I mentioned in (maybe) the summary video is that using a 1 or 2 inch body lift will make things way easier. I didn't use a body lift on this one, but will for sure if I every do another v8 swap.
Thanks for your video. I use a standard rotation timing cover with the GMB High Performance Water Pump 125-1560P which is reverse flow with outlet on the driver side. It has the "circular" holes in the backing plate which is supposed to work with either a reverse or standard flow timing cover. The timing cover's D-shaped openings are indeed a pain to match up especially if you are trying to use a reverse flow WP on a standard flow TC. You may note that the expensive Edelbrock 8840 reverse flow WP also uses a backing plate with circular (not D-shaped) holes.
Thieves. I’ve bought 7 drive belts because of this bracket issue. They finally have a recall and I can get brackets put on but have to pay $500 for labor. Hate this company, stuck with this mower.
Very Nice job overall, your welds are functional but not pretty. If your using flux-core, don't weld vertically, only weld horizontal, this will greatly improve your weld appearance🙂... BTW your a very good machinist.
