this is great, but it'd be nice to see it from above a bit to see the wheel contacting the part..sure beats my method of tedious, tiny rubber hammer taps while wearing a jeweller's glass ! thanks!
Sorry, it was a last minute decision to give away one of my trade secrets and I just balanced the phone on the top slide, next time, I'll mount it in a better spot !
I’ve had good luck using a heatgun to warm up the black goop, then just twisting the bezel loose. I use 3M black butyl sealant to replace the goop. There’s a video on my channel if you’re interested.
One way is to run the the vehicle til it is low on fuel, then with a multimeter set to Ohms, and tape / crocodile clips or whatever you think works best to connect the multimeter to the fuel sender and preferable with the multimeter in the passenger compartment, ( guage and wizard disconnected. ) get an assistant to write down the resistance every 5 seconds while you fill from the pump at a constant rate . From this you can plot a pretty accurate graph of the resistance on one axis and the time on the other, mark the start, end, 1/4 1/2 and 3/4 times on the axis and that will give you the resistances. Another is to assemble as many fuel cans as possible and siphon out the tank, plot the resitances as before every time you add a fuel can's worth, or if the cans are different sizes, weigh the amount of fuel added each time unitl the tank is full, Again plot this on a graph with the volume or weight along one axis and the resistance on the other. The point I am trying to get across is that you don't need to know the exact amount the tank holds, but you want to be able to plot a graph of the resistance of the sender from empty to full. I hope that makes sense Chris ps, if you know exactly how much fuel the tank holds, then you can take the short cut and just measure the resistance or program the wizard by adding the right amount of fuel before taking a reading or pressing the buttons, However, if you plot the resitance proficle of the semder/tank cmbination as suggested, if anything goes wrong during programming of the wizard, you don't have to mess with the actual fuel again, just refer back to the recorded resistances. C
@@chrishorne4016 Many thanks for the quick reply. I once tried to fill up at a petrol pump whilst taking measurements, but the station manager wasn't happy with me experimenting. I like the idea of measuring resistance over time, as that wouldn't be too obvious.
there is a bit more at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ME_KKCpyJqE.html but I now use a steel rule with a hacksaw slot in it, with the sharp edges removed.. The most important thing is to put a protective layer of paper on the dial to prevent marks Chris
Cheers Ron, It would be a better video but I just banged it out for a customer on my mobile phone with zero preparation, and not wanting to waste a new bezel, the one I used was a bit manky. It works on the 52mm gauges and the weird sizes on some bikes too. Oh, and the hole in the middle is for the tachos with the movable red line pointer!
If its the twist-on type with tabs as shown in the video then it should just push and twist back on. If its the rolled-on bezel type ( not the one in the video) then you need a tool. I couldmake a video of how we do those if you needed it ?
Can you explain how to test a tach on bench, saw your video on hertz but did not understand. 8 cycl 4 stroke. What makes the tach move up to 3000? Thanks
Hi Robert. An 8 cylinder engine fires each cylinder every other stroke ( or revolution of the crankshaft) so every revolution of the crankshaft there will be 4 sparks, at 3000 rpm there will be 3000 / 60 revolutions of the crankshaft every second.. thats 50 revs per second, and with 4 sparks per revolution, there will be 200 sparks per second. 200 per second is 200 Hertz. The circuit detects spark pulses or cycles of a tone just the same so a steady square wave tone of 200 Hz will be the same frequency as an 8 cylinder 4 stroke. so send the 200 hz tone into the circuit and adjust the screw until the needle shows 3000 rpm. The tone can come from an audio file, a signal generator or an app on a phone or PC, as long as its 200 pulses a second, it doesn't matter. does that help ? Chris
Just wanted to say thank you, did it today during lockdown, polished and cleaned and came up a treat. That silicone gunk looked bloody awful. On mine there was a circular rubber ring pressed into the inner bezel so don't be alarmed if one falls out.
The rubber ring is hollow so fairly easy to compress, if anyone loses that rubber ring, a length of insulation from some silicone cable does the job and is a lot easier to find !
The test rig is 50% duty cycle with an amplitude of about 3V, but our conversion board itself can accept anything from 3V to 150V abd is designed to be driven from an alternator "W" terminal as well as a coil / ECU / Hall effect etc. see this page www.spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html
2" stainless pipe, centre box rear box and modified standard suzuki downpipes.. still too loud for comfort. Passes the MOT but fails the noise test at the rack
I would be interested in the tach loop hook ups. What was the amplitude of the 100/200 hertz signal? Does it get fed through a resistor after going through the loop? Trying to get my tach to move on a bench test but using an audio signal generator for the tach loop. I suspect not enough current or possibly wrong waveform?
Hi, this particular tachometer has been modified with our kit to be voltage triggered rather than current triggered, but I understand the issue. the standard current triggered tachometers need several amps through the loop to trigger properly, the voltage is not so much of an issue. We actually make a module that is used by several tachometer repair guys to calibrate the current triggered tachos.. The module produces 2 or 3 amps at about 1 Volt or so.. ( figures from the top of my head, but they are in the ballpark) It will need an input signal of course, but anything over 3V pk-pk will be fine. www.spiyda.com/smiths-rvi-buffer.html
Hi, please email me with your browser details and I will try and replicate.. I just tested using Firefox, Edge and IE and it is working fine, we do know that Chrome on Android requires full registration rather than quick checkout. Chris
We were using Chome/Win 10, with AdBlock Plus turned off for your site. Will try with one of the other browsers instead. In the meantime, placed an order for one (at a higher price) on your eBay listing
We were able to confirm that it seems to be a problem with Chrome, and the Win 10 version of IE. Firefox, Edge, and Opera seem to work just fine. Thanks!
Great gadget. My readings are damn accurate! It can be aquired here: www.ebay.com/itm/Gauge-Matcher-Matches-Gauge-to-sender-fuel-oil-water-temperature-etc-580/251240184459?hash=item3a7f14fa8b:g:0RQAAOSw3WxaAY9O
That's awesome great work my be you should modify these and many more units and sell them .. I'm sure lots of people should be interested. . Just one suggestion instead of having it vacuum components maybe you should modify it as a fume extractor. . Just an idea
The latest mod is a very simple one... I used the cable from a defunct iron ( new irons are only a couple of pounds) cut the iron off, and put a socket to match the plug on the other end.. I now have an extension lead for the soldering irons.. ridiculously useful !
Sadly no, I bought a second one a few weeks ago and it had a fault on the board that controls the air pump. The fault on mine was that it delivered no air or air at full power, the potentiometer working like a switch.. The job I needed it for requires an accurate airflow control. I made a video and sent it to the seller, who refunded. I then bought another which works just fine. If its new, I'd advise contacting the seller for replacement or refund. ps, the original is still working just fine.. and its used almost every day.
Cool Mods, I just won one of these for £25 delivered brand new. I have a BK6000 rework station for the last few years. this has the cartridge soldering iron tips. Since I don't have the Power 8000 yet I'm wondering if the pinout on the soldering iron connector is compatible with the Hakko irons?
I believe so, it certainly matches the cheap replacements and the tips fit fine too. One mod I did since the video may be of interest.. I recycled the cable from an iron that failed by cutting at the iron end and adding an inline socket.. very useful iron extension lead ! By the way, this station is still working well, used for several hours a day for sometimes several hours at a time.
Thanks! Im just planing to do the same in my vertical machine center. I Will need two acelerometers in order to know if the balance is paralel or cross.
They need updating a little Bruce, the videos are still relevant but the latest boards have 4 solder tabs, the changes are covered by the printed instructions.
Cheers, I don't know if its my ears or the way the phone picks up the VFD. but it is hardly audible in real life ! I use this lathe all the time and it still runs ridiculously smoothly and I have used the set up for balancing parts such as driveshafts held in the tapered-scroll 3-jaw Taylor chuck I fitted (and balanced the same way)
Hello, nice work... Can you please help me with wiring accelerometer to BNC adapter for oscilliscope. Do you only use output z-axis with ground??? Thanks Chris
Blimey Chris, it was several years ago now (the video was reposted when I changed accounts), but I still have the bits in a drawer... I kept the set up in case I needed to balance anything else. looking at it, I can see I only connected the z, power and ground connections. Power was from 4 AA batteries.. I'm glad I looked as the batteries have leaked and need to be disposed of ! Chris (-=Spiyda=-)
Hello Blimey Thanks for an quick answer. I will try to do this setup. Balancing with weights will take a lot of time, because I don't know how much weight I need and where to place it. thanks Chris
Thanks for the great video - I have the exact same unit and I'm having a tough time trying to figure out why my pump only runs on full voltage (one speed). The pot on the front face has been tested as working and shows continuity to both AIR VOL2 connections on back board. The triac @ U3 (BTB04) was taken out of circuit and tested ok also with no shorts. It is a mystery indeed. I'll figure it out but figured I'd ask to see if someone had a quick answer...
Can you tell me what voltage feeds the 'air? I own a 952 Gordak! I think 15 VAC (since this is not the bridge rectifier) but await confirmation. Some time ago I removed the membrane since it was just noise and then not air it distributed. The membranes mounted on this desoldering station are really disgusting to say the least. I would like to apply a small Mabuchi RS360SH 3Vdc by inserting a diode schottly appropriate to protect the motor and the classic endurance. Thank you. Hello.
Thank you soooooo much!!! Makes a lot more sense for the display to actually display something useful like yours does! Sent the eBay seller an email and waiting for him to get back to me...
Hey! Very nice little unit you have there! I've been wanting a soldering station for a while now and am looking into buying this one. I have a couple questions for you regarding the quality and such of this unit. Do you still use it and does everything still function well? Is the cord of the soldering iron heat resistant?(I always melt my soldering iron cords!) Thank you so much!
Hi, I use it pretty much every day... and I would definitely reccomend it if you need the hot as well as an iron. I use the hot air as much for heatshrink as anything else. The cord is not heat resistant and I agree, that is a weak point. I don't have a great problem with it as i drape the iron cord over my microscopr when soldering, so the iron cannot come into contact. The other niggle is the quality of the sleeve that hold the iron tips in place.. sometimes the tips jam and need a knock to free then .. But all in all, still impressed !
Hey! Thank you for the quick reply! Have those improvements like the bigger heat sink on the regulator and resistor replacement held up? Sounds like a great unit! I'm getting it! :D
Makerj101 I saw that you had a problem with yours.. I uploaded a vid of what the temperature displays should do when you turn it on.. Power+ 8000 SMD hot air soldering rework station power up.
Hi, Nice video thank you. I have gone for the same one but unfortunately i was sent a 110v version with a 110v transformer inside it. Could i get away with just buying an internal 240v transformer? what would you recommend? Thanks
Hi Jay, thanks, unfortunately it would require switching a load of parts to make a 110V model work on 240V.. for example both the heating elements are driven from the mains, and probably some of the control circuitry has different values. If the supplier was supposed to send one that would work at 240, I would get them to send the right one.. Chris
