Hi, I'm Markous and I love cars! Honda’s are my passion, but I don’t discriminate. Come follow me on this journey filled with fast cars, great friends, and good humor! Sub, Share, and Like...you dont want to miss these shenanigans.
So quick tip from my previous experience, I never do not add boost/power to the car at the track until my 60” is low 1.5 /high 1.4’s. I saw you guys quickly learned that adding boost didn’t help on that 3rd run
@@badboyracing5391 that just a homie helping me try to figure this thing out. My tuner had his hands on the laptop at the first event this summer and got me to my PB. We are gonna go back to that tune at the next event. We’re learning as we go, first time I’ve had a car of this caliber so it’s a lot for me to learn.
@@EKBoosted you are doing great!! What really helped me was a notebook and it might sound silly, but in that notebook I write down each pass that I make weather, track, tire psi, boost psi and of course the time slip numbers and any changes made on each pass that way you know exactly how and why something happened
Need 2nd gear burn outs to get more mph to heat up the slicks. Need to add weight to the front end to keep the front end from lifting. Lastly need to control the spinning and rev higher so when you shift your still in the power band.
First. and just commenting to help the algorithm... i know the importance of that. That all being said, Josh is a fantastic person, his products are unmatched. He even custom bent me a brake kit for the fronts for my car since it is Right hand drive, had them in hand within 48 hours.
How hot was it? The iat’s could possibly have pulled an ungodly amount of timing that it ignited the fuel late in the exhaust and that could spool the turbo over the pressure you want. Also more load on the track will do that. But if it was source to gate and it still did it then that’s weird. Where do you source your boost pressure from?
Boost pressure is sourced from the turbo. The car wasn’t that hot, 160-190 during the passes. The fact it worked with a different gate is the confusing part. They are the same wastegate outside of the color. Maybe blue is just bad luck 😂
@@EKBoosted lmfao maybe, but nah Im talking about intake air temperature. Not coolant temp. If your car sat enough to cool to 160, the iats are usually cooler than that when cruising but sitting and heat soaking they could have been close to that coolant temperature. They could have even been the same. That would pull excessive timing and cause overboost issues. But the gate to source issue is weird. What’s the boost cut?
@@PRZJ91 boost cut was set at 30psi. The intake air temps shouldn’t have been to bad, as it was in the 60s that day. Also, if it was the intake air temp I would imagine I would’ve had the same issue with a different gate.
that's what I was thinking. I burnout in 2nd but my hatch is only making 460whp @ 20#'s. dude got a big tire too, I'm currently running 13x8 on 23" slicks and runs consistent 11.0 turned down @ 16#'s. There's definitely more in his car, just needs to learn how to drive it.
If I wouldn’t have short shifted first on the 11.7 pass or missed 4th on the pass before that, I definitely would’ve been closer to a 10. There’s always next time!
Someone mentioned knowing why you weren't zero... well tour left number was 21, right was 14 total is 35 and 17.5 is what you needed to move it back from 14... you'd of been at 3.5 which would have been close to your intial factory mark... if I'm correct
I think you had the right idea with some aluminum, find the right thickness, bend it to size and should solve your issue, but you might just have a machine or tin shop build it for you. Give me measurements and I can see if my dad can build something and I’ll ship it out😊
Good signs, sucks to do a case swap but at least that’s behind you! Can’t wait for you to fix the overheating issue and watch you on the track! We all wanna see the Full Potential!
I dont know what i did wrong but i cant get mine to work with me at all. I stripped out one of the arms trying to get it bolted together. then noticed it doesn't even mater because the arms had no where to go anyways to i bolts the cap on sealed it all up. and no matter what i do it leaks fuel around the base gasket iv checked everything even replaced the gasket. did you deal with anything with yours or everything go perfect?
@@EKBoosted yeah it’s not the wire holes and I know it’s weird the nuts are cranked down so tight I think if I go any further I’ll break the stud off. I’m pretty patient when it come to auto work but this has to be one of the most frustrating installs I have done
I know this is an old video, but use a small bit and pre-drill the spot welds before using the spot weld bit. It will make your life a lot easier. It keeps the spot weld bit from moving around and you'll break them a lot less
I have a friend the assembly a engine for me and the quench look so low the i dont want to try that engine 😂 still trying t figure out whats wrong there its a b18b with nippon set up 81 mm scotts rods with this inf im gonna do it myself ❤
Sometimes in life we just pay professionals to do our dirty work instead of trying to tackle it ourself. I don’t even do my own oil changes in my truck because I’m just too busy. So having someone else do it saves time, effort and the hassle.
That can be true, but at the same time if I’m going to continue racing civics, learning all I can about the engine and transmission is probably for the best. So I’m on the fence, the more I stare at the transmission the more it makes sense and seems fairly simple. So we’ll see.
