If a bit of string on the end of a bit of plastic can scratch your fiber, you need to purchase better fibers. Nearly 10 years in the game and I have yet to scratch or damage a single fiber.
@NearFarMedia Tell that to Raytheon or Northrop Grumman. Licensed avionics technician. Just giving my 2 cents. QC at any airline would have a heart attack if they saw that. Maybe just ignorance on our end, but we are trained to clean with great delicacy when you're dealing with extremely expensive fiber that cannot be repaired.
i actually have an tds 644b with 684 board(the original board has been take a shower on capsfluid and drop the magic smoke) i change it his board and the caps in new boar, but still not working (only turn on and off every second) maybe need to check power supply too
Would you be able to share what connectors are you using (mfg/series) and what particular crimper? I’ve been thinking about getting Japanese crimpers for some common contacts.
It is possible to buy bulk white toner and fill up one’s own old cartridge. For front panels I’ve replaced the Y cartridge with white, getting CMWK capability. The cartridges can be reordered to get good coverage of white on black etc. It just needs some small changes to the postscript file sent to the printer. Why postscript? So you can fully control what’s drawn with what color. Otherwise the Adobe+Windows color management messes it up.
Hi mate! thanks for the video! Just a question, where did you get the PSU schematic? Im struggling for a while to find PSU schematic for TDS380 and 420A. Gday
J'adore, je suis pas au niveau pour en avoir besoin maintenant. Ce que j'aime le plus c'est la somme de travail et les progrès accessibles aux amateurs, fini les boites en pcb, les circuits en l'air, etc. Very professional work. I have seen many power meter on ebay without sensor, so at this time i play with ad8307 and analog voltmeter. Thank for sharing your knowledge
I took apart mine and looks like now they put in there a controller in a SOP package, SMD leds and passives. No power LED. But solder joints are very bad, there is barely any solder, you can see bare copper pads. Also this thing is USB1.1! Max rate 12 Mbit/s. Shameful!
I actually built a Super80 many years ago. Eventually upgraded to CPC464 in '85.... The only item I have of that machine, is the manual... I still use it... Of course, the Amstrad, is now emulated.... and I still use it now and then when I feel nostalgic... Good memories... Thanks for the video!!
You seem to skip over the amplitude settings. In fact, you go from shoving a board back in the machine straight to showing measurements without showing us what you did to get there. The % distortion is variable with amplitude so are you measuring distortion at 3V?... because no one has a clue since you didn't show any of that.
Great tutorial!! My edge brush stopped working. I took it apart and cleaned out some cat hair that had worked into the gears, and it's working great. Thanx!!
thanks for the video, but I need replacement side brush gears. The screw broke off so I need to relace the gear that holds the screw for the side brush.. Do you know if they sell replacement parts ?
Hi, i want to buy this unit to replace bad LED's on TV backlight LED strips. Do you still have the unit? If so, is it still working good? Are you still satisfied with it? Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
Keep an eye out for an HP 6515A power supply - 0~1500 Vdc @ 5 mA - great for reforming and leakage testing of higher voltage electrolytics. I use mine for this regularly - use bench meters to monitor voltage & current, set the PS output to the cap's rated voltage and let it rip.
@@NearFarMedia I also have the little 10 watters (6212, 14, 16 & 18As) that I use for lower voltage caps. The 6212A goes up to 100 V. If you look for that series, make sure you get the even-numbered ones - they are CV/CC - the odd ones (6211, 13, 15 & 17) are only CV.
These are really nice . There are a lot of TG501A,SC503,PG506A units out there with the newer red Lens that would benefit from this service if you had the time to make up the files for them .I certainly would invest in a set of the 3 .for my set . I'm presently looking for a SG504 and will get one for it two ...........Well done!................. these cosmetic projects are just what is needed as there are loads of working but crap looking 500/5000 modules out there .i wonder would PCWAY be able to reproduce the silk screen fronts as well ?PS I just did a couple of TM503 facelifts with your boards. Had a tight squeeze on the Nichicon 4700/63/105 caps I put in leu of the no longer available ones in your BOM. Worked out very well . I dont need the pinouts at the top so just insulated the area with capton below the wider caps.Thanks.
The fronts are OK DIY. Print with a color laser on an adhesive transparent printable label. Cover (“laminate”) with another label. Reuse old scratched up front end or have one laser cut without any legend.
This is not a feather in one's cap, to build such a big ass simple apprentice power supply. Moreover, it contains three bulky transformers and a thick, cumbersome housing. The same result could have been achieved in half an hour by soldering or connecting three 5V and 2x15V plug-in power supplies, and it would have been comparatively tiny with high efficiency to boot. Or is the device to be powered sensitive to the potential noise from switching power supplies? But I must give a huge compliment: The execution is absolutely perfect, beautiful, and solid! It seems that the goal was the construction itself, not just having a power supply.
All been done. 🙂 Depending on the PSU revision, it may have RIFA capacitors or may not (I think the earlier ones usually have them, later ones don't). Definitely worth checking.
I've never damaged a chip from being under UV. Back when these were the only kind of erasable eproms available, I'd have a dozen chips just sitting under UV when debugging as I would make a code change, then program a new chip. The old chip goes back under the light.
For anyone who can't get it to work, specifically, those that are seeing only LED2 turn on, try replacing the red primary coil with a wire with fewer turns. Newer versions of this kit say to use 2-3 turns, but try trimming it down from 3 to 2, and if that still doesn't work, from 2 to 1 turn. I had 3 turns, then cut it down to 1 turn and it worked with no other changes.
That number is just a production batch number, it's not actually a date code. I have purchased a number of verified brand new batteries and the codes were no where near the actual date, some used letters as well as numbers and others would have been in the future..
@@NearFarMedia That's good, thought you'd have to do it over again. I miss when things didn't have to have backup batteries or need a microscope to solder something.
Can you elaborate on the dishwasher part? Just regular cycle with, preferably, no dishes and no detergent? Sounds scary. Can I just clean it with lots of IPA instead?
Does anyone know the original price for one of these scopes? I saw one eBay listing, that had included a handwritten note included, quoting: " $9,999 new purchase price"...
Greetings again from Radelaide , Australia,.a while ago you did a video on repacking a potentiometer with this special Deoxit grease, I forget which video, can any conductive or silicon grease be used also ? Thanks in advance. ✌️
