Took a look but I think the angles are off and the wheelbase will be too short. Plus it did not have the Tamiya blue bling. A pair of these blue arms only cost me $6USD.
Which angle is off? The distance from the top/bottom of the knuckle ball joints? YOKY2-08FSCA part number for the for lower adjustable arm. YOKD-156-30AA part number for the light weight lower insert, they have long and short versions of these. YOKY2-08FUIA upper arm that has also has both steel and aluminum inserts for short and wide, for your case I’d recommend the longs and just cut them as needed. For the blue bling, Yokomo did just release their classic blue Limited chassis which is a bit darker than tamiya’s classic teal but is closer to the more modern tamiya blue anodizing, they haven’t announced blue parts yet but they offer these parts in purple, red, and black. Enjoying your development videos, good luck. RC drift has a lot of option parts that might work be fun to explore, overdose leans more towards tamiya standard measurements.
Na-wish ko sa pelikula itong sequel movies 2017 ay mula The Fate of the Furious hanggang Transformers: The Last knight, kasama pa ang Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Men Tell No Tales, maliban ako sa Cars 3, dahil nagsagawa ng 2 Pixar Movies 2017 tulad ng Cars 3 at Coco, ang coco walang sakyan doon sa eksena ang makuha ko, puro music scene lang
Looks terrific. I managed to lower my ride height a little (TT01E) however I did not expect the results. We race on a gym floor, very slippery. I found that the rear was now swinging out a little more on power. Maybe adjust diffs?
Lowering ride height lowers the roll center and makes the car roll more which may make the rear swing out. If this is the case a firmer rear spring will give more rear support and help with on power stability.
I think it's because of the outer double cardan joint and the wheel bearings having to be placed outside of that. There was a shorter design than the double cardan joint being made for RC, but I can't for the life of me remember the name... I just remember it was patented and expensive...
Found it... the RCV by miborg. This would be a much better joint to use to allow you to adjust scrub radius by moving the RCV cup inside of bearings allowing for a really short axle and adjustable scrub.
I am not yet clear on the theory, but so far from my prototypes the one with the center width of the tire closer to the kingpin seems to give faster corner speed and more precise steering. Apart from less tire scrub you can also have longer arms for the same car width.
