I have trail cam video's and pics of it being used. I don't know how (or if you can even do it) to put a video in the comments.

I guess you could PM me and I could send them that way

There's all sorts of cool stuff you can do. Thanks for your input

Glad you liked it. Thanks

Build it out of a metal barrel and you'll be very pleased with it.

Only thing I can say is, got to be level. If you used a toilet flange into a "T" and same amount of pipe out both sides of the "T", then should flow evenly to both sides. If it's letting more go out a particular side, try tilting it more to the other side. Even if it makes it unlevel. Don't worry maybe so much about how level it is vs getting it to flow out both feeding tubes. Good luck

I always take some busted blocks to put under my legs to level the feeder. Also, when I build the feeder now, I use the metal barrel with removable lid. Makes it a little heavier, but works better

@@dalewalker2379 The only issue with metal barrels is that the sweat. Any condensation in the air inside the barrel collects on the inside of the metal barrel due to the temperature difference inside vs outside. Condensation mold. But you’re right, its more sturdier than plastic.

I disagree. Think about a table....a four legged table is sturdier than a three. But really depends on how wide of a base you have

True if you are working on perfectly flat ground. Don't have flat ground in most places

Well, the feeder keeps a pile of corn out on the ground, so it's there for any animal to eat. Nothing you can do about that. But it's been my experience that the racoons hit it pretty aggressive at first (i guess because it's a new food source to them and they just found it, so they don't know how long it'll last) and then after a month or so, they tend to visit the feeder, but not stay as long as in the beginning. I feel they start to trust it's gonna be there and therefore, tend not to abuse it. But of course, they do come and feed regularly.

Thanks. Still have mine in the woods still tiday

Thanks and your welcome

You were probably looking at schedule 40 pipe. You CAN BUILD this feeder for around $60. That's including buying the barrel, bolts, tubing, legs ect. A complete build can be done for around $60

CHRIS, THE FEEDERS IN THIS VIDEO, I BUILT THEM IN 2016. I JUST BUILT 4 MORE ABOUT A MONTH AGO AND IT COSTED ME AROUND $60 EACH. I THINK YOU NEED TO REPRICE THE STUFF

Yea I believe it was schedule 40 what kind did you use. I got the barrel and I can get thr bolts I just need the pvc pipe and Fittings and the 2x4 I'll check again cause I really want one of these

I got just regular 4 inch PVC pipe. It's white. I've even perfected the build some. Instead of the legs being 5 foot (needing 4- 2x4x8's), you can put 4 foot legs (2- 2x4x8's). In turn, that will make the feeder shorter. So instead of putting a 45' elbow on the end of the feeding tube for the deer to eat out of, just cut it with a sawsall level to the ground and to where it is about 3 inches off the ground. It will put a pile out on the ground about the size of a dinner plate. As the deer eat, it'll just keep letting a little out. So by doing this, you DON'T have to purchase the following: 2-45's, 2-2x4x8's. Saves a little more money. I did some like this because I had some mature bucks that wouldn't eat out of the 45' elbow but would eat off the ground.... weird.

@@dalewalker2379 CHRIS EVERSOLE GO TO MY FACEBOOK AND I'VE POSTED PICS OF BOTH FEEDERS. YOU CAN LOOK AT THE PICS AND DECIDE WHICH YOU LIKE BETTER.

As the deer eat the corn, it will continually fall through. When it gets about empty, there will be some left in the bottom that doesn't make it over to the T to go out (about 10-15 pds.). I rake it over and let it fall through before refilling the feeder. Not a big deal. Thanks

If you want to spend the extra money, you can buy a funnel that goes in the bottom and it will funnel it all out and will be completely empty. I just choose not to use one. Thanks

HOPE YOU HAVE A LOT OF SUCCESS WITH YOUR FEEDER

If they're empty and you have 40 m.p.h. plus wind, they could possibly turn over. In 3 years now, I had one to turn over empty. But it was sitting at the edge of an open field and we had something like 40 m p.h. wind with 50 gusts. So what I do now is place a rock on top of the feeder for extra weight. I've not had any problems since I did that. When there's corn in them, they won't turn over. I even had a 100 lb. Bear climb up the side of one and get on top of it and it didn't turn over. There was about 250 lb. Of corn in it at that time.

I would drill holes in the legs and hammer rebar through into the ground

Thanks. I appreciate it

YEAH, YOU COULD DO THAT, BUT WOULD MAKE MOVING THE FEEDER IN THE FUTURE A BIT MORE OF A JOB. YOU COULD COME UP ON EACH LEG ABOUT 8-12 INCHES AND DRILL A 45 DEGREE HOLE FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THEN DRIVE A PIECE OF REBAR FROM INSIDE OUT INTO THE GROUND FOR STRENGTH AND STABILITY.

YOUR VERY WELCOME. THAT'S WHY I MADE THE VIDEO. WHEN I WAS WANTING TO BUILD A GRAVITY FEEDER, I COULDN'T FIND BUT A FEW VIDEO'S THAT HELPED ME AND GOT ME STARTED IN THAT DIRECTION. I CREATED MY FEEDER FROM THAT FOUNDATION.

I APPRECIATE IT. I BASICALLY JUST RESEARCHED WHAT WAS MOST POPULAR AND THEN DID MY OWN TESTS ON SEEING HOW WELL THE FEED FELL AND SO FORTH. I HAVE MADE SOME CHANGES TO A FEW OF MINE BECAUSE I'M A DEER HUNTER . I SHORTENED THE LEGS TO WHERE THE FEEDING TUBE ALMOST TOUCHED THE GROUND. THEN I REMOVED THE '45 ON THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE. I NOTICED THAT I HAD SOME VERY LARGE MATURE BUCKS THAT WOULD NOT EAT FROM THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE. THEY WERE JUST TOO CAUTIOUS. THEY'D STAY BACK AND LET OTHER DEER EAT AND THEN COME UP AFTER THEY WERE FINISHED AND EAT WHAT WAS SPILLED ON THE GROUND. I NOTICED THAT THEY WOULD RATHER EAT OFF THE GROUND VS PUTTING THEIR MOUTH IN A TUBE. SINCE I SHORTENED THEM, THE BIGGER BUCKS WILL WALK RIGHT UP AND EAT NOW. I NEEDED FOR THEM TO BE COMFORTABLE AT THE FEEDERS AND NOT BE NERVOUS. NOW YOUNGER BUCKS AND DOES EAT OUT OF IT FINE, BUT THE BIG ONE'S IS WHAT I'M INTERESTED IN. BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR FEEDER BUILD. THANKS AGAIN

Alfonso Quinonez the legs (2x4's) are 5 foot long. The barrel is 3 foot off the ground. So the legs are mounted 2 foot on to the barrel.

WADE CARRAHER IT WAS NEITHER. IT WAS THE PLAIN WHITE PVC

THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK

JUSTIN, I DON'T KNOW HOW THICK THE RUBBER MATTING IS THAT I USED. I JUST TOLD THE GUY AT TRACTOR SUPPLY WHAT I WAS WANTING TO DO AND HE SUGGESTED THE RUBBER MATTING. HE CUT IT FOR ME IN 6 INCH WIDTHS AND IT WAS EASY TO BEND AROUND THE LID. MINE WENT THRU ONE WHOLE SPRING, SUMMER AND WINTER AND AS FAR AS THE MATTING ITSELF, IT HELD UP FINE AND WOULD OF HELP UP FOR A LONG TIME. BUT THE PROBLEM IS SQUIRRELS. NOT THAT THEY'RE TRYING TO GET INTO THE BARREL FOR THE FEED, CAUSE THERE'S PLENTY THAT IS AVAILABLE OUT THE FEEDING TUBES. PROBLEM WITH THE SQUIRRELS IS THAT THEY JUST LIKE TO CHEW ON THINGS. THEY NEVER BOTHERED THE BARREL OR THE FEEDING TUBES, THEY CHEWED ON THE RUBBER MATTING. I HAD TO REPLACE IT THE FOLLOWING SPRING WHICH WAS EASY TO DO. JUST TOOK MORE MATTING IN THE WOODS WITH MY CORDLESS DRILL, BACKED OUT THE SCREWS AND RE-ENSTALLED THE NEW MATTIING. I DIDN'T WANT TO HAVE TO GO THRU THIS EVERY YEAR, SO I CUT PLYWOOD CIRCLES ABOUT 2 INCHES BIGGER THAN MY BARREL. THAT WAY THERE'S MORE THAN ENOUGH OVERHAND ALL THE WAY AROUND. NO RAIN CAN GO UP UNDERNEATH AND INTO THE BARREL WITH THAT MUCH OVER HANG (IT'D HAVE TO BE RAINING SIDEWAYS). THEN I DRILLED A SMALL HOLE IN THE PLYWOOD LID ON BOTH SIDES SO I COULD ATTACH THE BUNGIE CORD....SINCE I DIDN'T HAVE THE ORIGINAL BARREL LID ANY MORE. ON MINE, IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE PLYWOOD LID AFTER IT'S ON THE BARREL, YOU CAN SEE SOME SMALL "CRACKS" OR "WAVEY OPENINGS" HERE AND THERE BECAUSE I DIDN'T CUT THE LID OFF THE BARREL PERFECTLY STRAIGHT/ROUND. THAT'S WHY I CUT THE PLYWOOD LID LARGER TO MAKE SURE THAT I HAD MORE THAN ENOUGH FOR OVERHANG TO STILL GIVE THOSE OPENINGS SHELTER. I DID THE NEW LIDS IN APRIL 2017 AND NOW IT'S DECEMBER 2017 (8 MONTHS LATER) AND HAD NO PROBLEMS AT ALL WITH MOISTURE IN MY FEED AND I ELIMINATED THE SQUIRREL PROBLEM. AS A ADDED MEASURE JUST IN CASE MY BUNGIE CORD WERE TO BREAK BEFORE I CHECKED THE FEEDER AGAIN, I PUT A BIG ROCK ON TOP SO THAT THE SQUIRRELS AND COONS COULDN'T SLIDE MY WOOD LID OFF. OF COURSE I PAINTED THE PLYWOOD LID TO MAKE IT MORE UNIFORMED TO THE BARREL AND ALSO PAINTING WILL HELP PROTECT THE WOOD AGAINST THE WEATHER. IF YOU HAVE READ ANY OF THE OTHER POSTS, I PUT ONE ON HERE SAYING THAT A METAL BARREL WITH A REMOVEABLE LID WILL WORK BEST IF YOU CAN BE OK WITH THE EXTRA ADDED WEIGHT OF THE FEEDER. THE EXTRA WEIGHT MIGHT BE A PROBLEM IF YOUR HAVING TO CARRY IT ANY TO WHERE YOUR GONNA SET IT UP. BUT MOST PEOPLE NOW DAYS HAVE 4-WHEELERS OR SIDE-BY-SIDES AND THAT WON'T BE A PROBLEM. SO, I'VE GOT 3 PLASTIC BARREL FEEDERS WITH PLYWOOD LIDS NOW (AND THEY ARE GIVING ME NO PROBLEMS IN ANY WAY) AND ONE METAL BARREL FEEDER THAT HAS NEVER GIVEN ME ANY PROBLEMS FROM DAY ONE OF PUTTING IT OUT. I WAS THINKING ABOUT PUTTING MY CELL PHONE NUMBER ON HERE SO IF ANYONE WANTED TO TEXT ME, I COULD TEXT BACK PICS....DO YOU THINK I SHOULD?

Dale Walker thanks for the speedy reply. I think I have a good idea what you are talking about doing... I wouldn't put your number out here online, there's a lot of peta crazy people out here who troll hunting videos just to harass people in the comments, if they had your number you would probably be getting calls 24/7!

tburda823 thanks. I appreciate it.

Thanks. I appreciate it.

NOPE, NOT AT ALL. DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT'S ONLY 3 FEET OFF THE GROUND AND THE LEGS GO 2/3 OF THE WAY UP ON THE BARREL....THAT GIVES IT STABILITY. WHEN THERE'S FEED IN IT, IT GIVES IT A GOOD "CENTER OF GRAVITY". IF YOUR CONCERNED ABOUT IT FALLING, YOU CAN DO THIS INSTEAD.....I HAD TO BUILD ONE LIKE THIS CAUSE I HAD A BIG BUCK THAT DIDN'T LIKE EATING OUT OF THE '45 ELBOW AT THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE. 1.) DON'T PUT THE '45 ON THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE. 2.) AT THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE, CUT IT AT AN ANGLE TO MAKE IT FLUSH WITH THE GROUND. 3.) SHORTEN THE LEGS TO DROP THE FEEDER DOWN TO WHERE THE FEEDING TUBE WILL BE ABOUT AN INCH OFF THE GROUND. THIS WORKS JUST AS WELL. THE FEED WILL FALL TILL IT MAKES A SMALL PILE ON THE GROUND AND THEN IT'LL STOP. IF YOU RAKE THE FEED AWAY FROM THE FEEDING TUBE (OR WHEN A DEER EATS IT), MORE WILL FALL TILL THE PILE IS REESTABLISHED,. YOU'D THINK THAT IT WOULD JUST KEEP FALLING, BUT IT WON'T. THAT LITTLE PILE CREATES ENOUGH BLOCKAGE THAT IT STOPS. WANT A BIGGER PILE, JUST GET THE END OF THE FEEDING TUBE HIGHER OFF THE GROUND.....SAY 2-3 INCHES. IN OTHER WORDS, THE HIGHER UP OFF THE GROUND THAT THE FEEDING TUBE IS, IT'LL PUT OUT MORE FEED. TOO HIGH OFF THE GROND AND IT'LL PUT OUT WAY TOO MUCH. IT'S AMAZING HOW THAT LITTLE PILE AT THE END WILL STOP 350 LBS. OF FEED FROM DUMPING OUT. THANKS, DALE

SINCE YOUR POST AND MY COMMENT 10 MONTHS AGO, I'VE GOTTEN PICS OF A CUB BEAR WEIGHING APPROX. 75 LBS. AND HE CLIMBED ON TOP OF IT AND IS STANDING ON TOP OF IT AND IT NEVER TURNED OVER LOL.

thank you....i appreciate it.

THANKS. I APPRECIATE IT.