Nice video, you could take it simple step further and put in a solar cell (like the ones you can rip out of the solar garden stakes you buy from the dollar store) hooked up to a fet to open and close the connection between the circuit based on light conditions well; this would keep the current drain (although minimal) down during the LEDs off time. And with a little less simpler step you could get rid of the LDR, replace with the solar cell, and in an op amp and you could charge your battery.
lastly a straight forward question eh, i have a 3V-4.5V motor and a power source of 3-4.5V i need an ldr (or anything else that might work) in between this two, to cut the supply to the motor if there is too little light detected.
hey also, i'd like to ask why do i need the rest of the components? can't it just be a simple circuit, a power source connected to an LDR connected to and LED. when you cover the LDR the LED doesn't light and when the LDR is exposed to light the LED does? can that work?
Thank You for your video & explanation. I have had trouble with switching loads from the emitter side of the transistor. I can only get it to work if I connect the emitter to ground and sourcing the negative side of the load. Also, If you switch the resistor/LDR won't it work in reverse (like a photo light outside)? thanks for your demonstration
@justvisiblesilence so what if you have a 12v supply, what resistor would you use? also, if you had 2 LED's connected inline, would the first one waste some of the power before it got to the second?
Beam bots are solar robots that basically take in power from there solar cell and then release it in a movement towards the light. Created by Mark Tilden.
yeah....may be... once i made a light detec. with BC 547...with right polarity...means connection were right with collector and emitter.... so i decided it with 2n3906...i didnt knew its C B E pins...so as i connected, it didnt lit up...so when i put off the lights....it lit.... try .... thats the way... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
