Hey all! Welcome to my channel that contains all things RogueSphere. I dabble in many different things and I always apply my RogueSphere insignia to it! I have posted here a story I wrote years ago and re-created in animated format. This came out my RogueSphere Studios. I also sculpt art dolls which came out of RogueSphere Creations. Also, you can see the bikes I make and refurbish at RogueSphere Cyclery. So as you can see, this is my world which is all things RogueSphere! Where will it stop? Who knows....until then enjoy! Poppashango
@0Stella Thank You! The guy who bought it just came to look at it. He asked if he could take it for a spin and was gone for while. I started getting a little worried but he came around the corner eventually. He said, "My wife is going to kill me" and handed me the money. Lol.
Long shot that you'll see this since it's an older video, but looking for the product you used for your dash kit.. I absolutely can not find one for mine to do something similar to this... Any help would be appreciated
The kit I used was the Scosche TA2076B 2007 Toyota FJ ISO/Double Din with Pocket Kit. I checked on Amazon and it says it's no longer available. So I went to Crutchfield where I purchased it and saw the Metra 95-8202 Dash Kit. That kit would work for a single unit that fits in a double din slot. ZBut if you are trying to install two units like I did, I don't think it would work because it doesn't have the sides which I modified to hold both units. I did a few searches but it seems like you would have to modify a universal unfortunately.
For what it's worth, the various air-gap solutions presume the problem is water left in the outflow tubing outside the basement. The actual problem as stated is water left in the standing pipe before it exits the basement wall. The simplest solution remains removing the check valve. But if you really want to only drain the top portion of the standing pipe without recirculating large amounts of water during the pump cycle, then severely limit the diameter of the bleeder tube to something the size of a weep hole, like 3/16" - ¼".
Why has no one pointed out that the initial high-volume discharge through the internal drain tube is back flow from the pump pressure... negating the benefits of leaving the check valve in place.
I did think of that when I designed the system. But I found that the pressure and volume of water being forced outside was far greater than the back flow into the tank. Far more water was expelled. The evidence of that is that once the float had dropped far enough to turn the pump off, the back flow was not enough water to trip the float again. You can hear the pump has stopped and how long it takes to bring the water to level with the inner piping. Fortunately, I found the sweet spot with my measurement below the ground level outside. Going higher would risk another plug. Going lower would put even more water back into the tank and trigger the pump to cycle at a greater rate. It was literally 1 part spark of an idea, 1 part 1 part experimental, and 1 part desperation. Lol. Thanks for your thoughts.
I think in your case that is probably true. You have a long length of standing pipe... maybe 20-30 feet? Back-of-the-napkin math for a ½" bleeder *inside* a 1.5" outflow pipe (which reduces the effective outflow diameter to 1.4142") indicates you pump ~12.5% more water than necessary during the pump cycle. Assuming a 5gal sump -- or more specifically, 5 gals between float top to float bottom -- this works out to the volume of water in ~92" of 1.5" pipe (1.4142" effective). It also makes your pump cycle ~89% efficient. By comparison, if you had to pump all 20-30 feet of standing water each cycle, that's 1.8 to 2.7 gals extra, or 36.5 to 54% excess water, and pump efficiency drops to 73.25% or 64.5%, respectively. It's important for others to note the efficiency gain (compared to removing the check valve) is a function of outflow pipe diameter, bleeder diameter, sump capacity (float on to float off), and outflow pipe length that retains water. As an example, for your pipe dimensions and assumed sump capacity of 5 gal, then an outflow pipe with 92" of standing water is break-even: less than 92" (7' 8") there's no benefit. Increase the sump capacity to 10 gal, and the outflow pipe break-even length increases to 184" (15' 4") . Reducing the bleeder hose to ¼" changes these break even points dramatically, and brings your pump cycle back to 97% efficient: excess water: ~2.8% break even at 3gal (my current setup): 12.25" 5gal: 20.5" 10gal: 41" Just to complete the comparison, a 3/16" bleeder... excess water: ~1.6% pump efficiency: 98.4% break even at 3g: 7" 5g: 11.75" 10g: 23.5" And of course, if the standing outflow water equals the sump size, removing the check valve is a no-go, and you have to add some kind of bleeder: 3g: ~32.5 feet 5g: ~54.5 feet 10g: ~109 feet (These lengths are for a 1.5" pipe with no bleeder hose reducing the capacity) Of course all these numbers change depending on the outflow pipe diameter, but 1.5" seems like the largest pipe residential sump pumps are likely to use.
Hello sir, this is a great review. I am going to be purchasing a Yamaha Raider next spring and I loved those large odin bags in my last motorcycle but didn’t know how they were gonna be on the Raider. This video helped me so much and I am definitely getting those saddlebags again as well as the easy bracket system. Thanks so much.
I'm glad helped. If I can ask which sensors did you use? I purchased some from Amazon but they are not working right. Thinking I have to get oem, but they are so expensive.
Hey bro i know this is an old old video!! But could you tell me where you got the saddle bags, the batwings and the back rest!? Just got a bike and would like to make it a more cruiser friendly bike for my son and me
Hey body, outstanding video. Now I understand how it works. Do you know how to find out which sensor is the bad one? They’re very pricey to replace both…
I've gone 6 hours ok on it...just a little saddle sore...I have considered an Ultimate Seat for longer rides....but have pulled the trigger yet. At one point I was just going to give it up for a Transcontinental....I just love my Raider too much....so the seat it is...and I am working on modifying a quick release Harley tour pack on the Raider too.
How far back into the house does it need to be? If you have access to the top, could you install an upside down p-trap inside the house just before it exits?
Based on your video I went out and got one! It’s a fine little machine and cuts exceptionally well. I got rid of my self propelled Toro gas mower as my lawn isn’t huge. I’m super happy with it.
Is this fix still working? This is a problem I never thought of and accidently designed into my now dual sump pit. My horizontal discharge pipe is 7 feet long with a 1.5" drop per foot. so NO water is left in the horizontal pipe. I live in northern NH.
Good Day! We sold the house last October, but I NEVER had an issue since I set this up. So I consider this a success. Sure there will always be naysayers but proof is in the pudding and I never had another frozen plug. Interesting side note: when we sold the house the inspector looked at the setup and mentioned it looked different. I "explained" it prevented frozen plugs at the outlet outside and he said "great!" and never mentioned it again. The horizontal pipe with a slant is a great idea. It did not occur to me at the time. 👍
Good Day! The quick release kit is part #55004 and the bags are the Yamaha Raider Odin Large bags. There is no part number for them you have to drill down to them after choosing by bike, in my case the Raider . They are still holding up since posting this review! Thanks for the props!
Thanks for your inspiring video! Your Sump pump could not have burst your pipe. Most Sump pumps only create about 8 to 10 PSI (25’ of head), this is at a dead head or shut-off condition. Your rubber connection cannot withstand any real pressure, but it doesn’t have to, because your pump isn’t capable of it. The location of your Sump pump confuses me. I’m In The Chicago are in the U.S. and here all our Sump pumps are in the basement, in a corner, right next to an outside wall. The pump discharge line goes up vertically about 7 to 8’ and horizontally (by the rafters) about 3’ and you’re outside. No piping is in floors or walls. A tee can be added to the pipe where you suggest and a smaller tubing can be attached and you’re done. In my case i will add a valve in-line by the tee and will only open this valve when temperaturę goes below 15 degrees Farenheit. Your idea & How you did it Is great! Thanks.....Jim
Just a thought, simple as it may sound for your situation. If you go back to the original rubber clamp joint, drill a very small hole in it halfway along it's length, reinstall, and make sure it points downwards. (Put a mark on the top 180 degrees from the hole, so you can see it facing up.) When the pump is in operation, there will be a small but pressured stream of water from the hole, but the beauty of this is, the entire floor and wall cavity section of pipe will drain back into the sump to prevent freezing, but so gradually it should not stress the pump. Best of luck with all of this.
