Thanks! There are a number of things that can help tone that down. I would try these . . . 1) Try maxing out your LSD. All 60's and work your way down in sets of 10. LSD has become much more sensitive since the latest patches. Higher numbers create a bit of understeer when shifting from acceleration to braking. But, it makes the cars behavior from the transition more predictable. Give it a whirl at all 60's and see how you feel about it. Then work your way down in the numbers. LSD Initial torque is a constant, 60 would be like 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is at any given time. This setting is quite deceptive. At 60 it would give 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is. But, at 30, it will only give you 50% of whatever your acceleration and braking are and slowly introduce you to the max number that your acceleration and braking are. LSD Acceleration is how even the driving tires share power when you are ON throttle. 60 would be like an old school posi' and have the tires locked and spinning at the same time with power. Great for putting down power, but bad for cornering as the inside tire would be spinning as fast as the outside tire and can create the car to slip and lose traction. LSD Braking evens it all out. This is noticable anytime you are off throttle and/or braking. Higher numbers keep the differential locked ( both tires spinning equally ) so when slowing down, the car is more predictable. Lower numbers here will unlock it and give you a bit of snap oversteer. Like I said, try them all maxed out and work your way down starting with Acceleration, Then Braking, and lastly do Initial Torque. 2) Front Dampeners will help snap oversteer from slowing down. Whatever your rear is set to, raise the front dampeners by 5 and if you need it more controlled, do another set of 5. 3) Height. The game has become really sensitive to body height. The cars do not like to be bottomed out. While not true for all cars, it's generally a good rule of thumb to run 10-20 more height than the lowest body height you can use. 4) Too much front downforce can cause this as well. You can try lowering it in increments of 20 to see if it makes it feel better. Good luck and happy tuning!

@@prtcountersteer oh my god. Not just a quick reply but a detailed one too. Thank you. I will give that all a try tomorrow. ( I’ve just been psvr2ing it for last couple hours so it’s wifey time now). I’m not a top driver but I like taking rubbish cars and pumping them up to compete against more modern higher power cars. This is going to help. 👍🏻

@@crazywrx1 Anytime! Go give the Wife some love and enjoy the rest of your day!

Thanks! You still using that old Charger for Watkins?

@@prtcountersteer yea I did think about building something else for the last race but I don't know what to do 😆

Charger would probably do all right here! Looks awesome!

@@joshuastanlick6217 Good math. Now, how can you explain this in a simpler fashion so that everyone else can understand? While it would appear there may be a simple explanation for gears in Gran Turismo 7, there is not. A simple number crunch is not good enough as there are too many variables. Drivetrain, aspiration, where the torque band is at, and so on. You have to gear for the best instance for your car. Some newer cars come within the game and IRL came with a lot of gears for the automatics, but when you really get on them , they skip gears. Even within the game, so many gears on some of these vehicles lose speed due to shifting too much. It's not foreign to me to take a 8-10 speed and turn it into a 5-6 speed to be able to maximize traction at any given time without the need to shuffle through gears. Great theory tho'!

@@prtcountersteer That's a good question! In all honesty, beyond encouraging people to play with the values in my formula: 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷Desired_1stGear))÷Scale_Factor)×((1+Increment_Factor))) to see what kind of results it can produce for them, I'm not sure how to clarify things further. I figured this out by trial and error, and messing with the calculus behind the simple algebra to prove the concept. I could provide the higher level work behind the final formula but I think that goes in the opposite direction of what most people might understand, but I can certainly go in-depth if you would like. Other than all that, people can use one of the provided gear sets that I calculated using 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷Scale_Factor)×((−1+Increment_Factor))) and see how that works out before implementing more organic approaches like you've covered in your video here. But yeah, just messing with the numbers in my formula or starting out with one of the sets that I've already calculated would go a long way towards grasping the underlying mechanics behind optimizing gear scaling and could help with understanding the logic behind the math. I do understand it isn't super intuitive on the face of it, so I could make a little video with examples to see if that helps others understand. If you have any suggestions or questions I'd love to hear them, as I am writing a paper with all the raw technics and calculus I used to proof the concept and other geeky stuff that makes your car go brrrr. Thanks for the reply!

@@prtcountersteer Here are those templates again: 10-speed 1=3.00 2=2.40 3=2.00 4=1.71 5=1.50 6=1.33 7=1.20 8=1.09 9=1.00 10=0.92 9-speed 1=3.00 2=2.33 3=1.91 4=1.62 5=1.40 6=1.24 7=1.11 8=1.00 9=0.91 8-speed 1=3.00 2=2.25 3=1.80 4=1.50 5=1.29 6=1.13 7=1.00 8=0.90 7-speed 1=3.00 2=2.14 3=1.67 4=1.36 5=1.15 6=1.00 7=0.88 6-speed 1=3.00 2=2.00 3=1.50 4=1.20 5=1.00 6=0.86 5-speed 1=3.00 2=1.80 3=1.29 4=1.00 5=0.82 4-speed 1=3.00 2=1.50 3=1.00 4=0.75 3-speed 1=3.00 2=1.00 3=0.60

@@prtcountersteer The Stanlick formula: Gear Ratio = 1 ÷ (1 - ((1 - (1 ÷ Point of Convergence)) ÷ Convergence Factor) • (Final Term)) Explanation: • Point of Convergence: This represents the desired 1st gear ratio upon which all other ratios will converge. It sets the foundation for the exponential progression of subsequent gear ratios. • Step-Length: Calculated as Number of Gears - 1, or (N - 1), is the amount of steps between the Point of Convergence and the remainder of the steps, or in this case, gears. For a 10-speed you would have 9 steps, for a 9-speed it would be 8 steps, for an 8-speed it'd be 7 steps, and so on; just be sure that the difference between the Final Term Floor and the Convergence Factor is always equal to (N - 1). • Convergence Factor: This controls how quickly all steps (or gear ratios) converge towards the final step (or ratio) that is at the Nth step (or gear). It's closely tied to the Number of Gears (N) and the desired Overdrive because: Convergence Factor + / - (+ / - Final Term Floor) = N - 1. The Convergence Factor is always minus a (negative Final Term Floor value), and plus any (positive Final Term Floor value). The Convergence Factor must be reduced or increased according to whatever value the Final Term Floor is to follow the rule N-1 = Step Length, which ensures that the Step Length is constant. • Final Term: This term is incremented for each gear, starting from the highest (final) gear and adding +1 to it for each preceding gear. Its floor value determines the Drive Level. A Drive Level of 0 = no Overdrive (1.00 : 1.00 top gear) whereas negative values for Drive Level such as -1 will produce levels of Overdrive. The opposite is true for values > 1, yielding more Torque Multiplication closer to the Nth ratio and producing Underdrive. • Final Term Ceiling is what ensures that the first gear ratio is achieved when it matches the Convergence Factor. This means that if you add 1 to a Final Term of -1: (-1 + 1) and make it zero, you'll get 1.00 : 1.00 as an output from the formula. If you add 1 again, it produces a number that is > 1.00. If you continue to increase the Final Term incrementally by 1, by the time it equals the given Convergence Factor, the formula will produce the desired first gear ratio that was set as your Point of Convergence. Example: • Using 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1)) for a 10-speed transmission, it will produce the following ratios from 1st to 10th gear (rounded to the nearest hundredth): 3.00, 2.40, 2.00, 1.71, 1.50, 1.33, 1.20, 1.09, 1.00, and 0.92. • The reason it has 8 as the Convergence Factor is because it is for a 10-speed gearbox wherein there are 9 steps between the given ratio of first gear and the resulting ratio of last gear, so (9 + -1) = a Final Term Ceiling of 8, and that ceiling (8 - -1) = 9, which preserves the Step Length of 9 for a 10-speed. Whenever the Final Term matches the Convergence Factor, the result will always = Point of Convergence, which is in this case 3.00 at 1st gear. • Of course, if you keep the Point of Convergence at 3.00 but lower the Final Term Floor to something that is < -1, say -2 or even -3, it will produce several levels of Overdrive and will create a more gradual progression both converging to the Point of Convergence and diverging towards the Nth gear. The opposite of this is true if you want less overdrive and desire a final gear of 1.00:1.00. Just make the Final Term Floor = 0, and the step length of N-1 for a 10-speed that is 9 would be seen as the Point of Convergence because (9 + 0) = 9. Key Principles & Advantages: • Exponential Scaling: The formula generates gear ratios that follow an exponential decay pattern where going in the direction further from the Point of Convergence there is progressively less delta between consecutive ratios (convergence). This results in a "wider" ratio spread amongst the lower gears, prioritizing torque at lower speeds, and each gear above the previous becomes progressively closer on the delta between consecutive ratios (divergence) as they get closer to the Nth gear. Obviously, given the sheer number of gears and the other parameters in the formula, you can scale exactly how steep this exponential decay (convergence towards Point of Convergence and divergence towards the Nth gear) is and exactly how gradual or sudden it is to get the set of ratios that best suits your needs and vehicle using pure algebra. This is a mathematically precise way to take advantage of the nature of geometric exponential feedback loops, that yields numerically perfect and scalably balanced ratio spreads with zero guesswork beyond the input of initial values. • Adaptable Convergence and Divergence: The Step Length adjusts dynamically based on the number of gears and desired Overdrive as determined by the Final Term Floor, ensuring seamless integration across various transmission setups. • Precise Overdrive Control: The Final Term Floor value allows for precise control over the top gear's overdrive level, enabling customization for specific tracks and racing strategies. • Consistent Step Length: The formula maintains a consistent step length (N - 1) between gear ratios, ensuring a balanced and predictable progression for smoother shifts and improved driver control. Ratio Spreads from 10 to 3-speed • Here is a series of charts for a 10-speed all the way down to a 3-speed. I chose a first gear of 3.00 : 1.00 as it is a median between 4.00 : 1.00 and 2.00 : 1.00, and I adjusted the Final Term Floor to -1 to apply a single level of overdrive to all of the spreads. Of course, you can manipulate these values at will to make your own charts. • The formula used for these ratio spreads is as follows: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷Step Length)×(−1)) and here are the results: 10-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)) 1=3.00 (8) 2=2.40 (7) 3=2.00 (6) 4=1.71 (5) 5=1.50 (4) 6=1.33 (3) 7=1.20 (2) 8=1.09 (1) 9=1.00 (0) 10=0.92 (-1) 9-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷7)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)) 1=3.00 (7) 2=2.33 (6) 3=1.91 (5) 4=1.62 (4) 5=1.40 (3) 6=1.24 (2) 7=1.11 (1) 8=1.00 (0) 9=0.91 (-1) 8-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷6)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6)) 1=3.00 (6) 2=2.25 (5) 3=1.80 (4) 4=1.50 (3) 5=1.29 (2) 6=1.13 (1) 7=1.00 (0) 8=0.90 (-1) 7-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷5)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5)) 1=3.00 (5) 2=2.14 (4) 3=1.67 (3) 4=1.36 (2) 5=1.15 (1) 6=1.00 (0) 7=0.88 (-1) 6-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷4)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4)) 1=3.00 (4) 2=2.00 (3) 3=1.50 (2) 4=1.20 (1) 5=1.00 (0) 6=0.86 (-1) 5-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷3)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3)) 1=3.00 (3) 2=1.80 (2) 3=1.29 (1) 4=1.00 (0) 5=0.82 (-1) 4-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷2)×(−1, 0, 1, 2)) 1=3.00 (2) 2=1.50 (1) 3=1.00 (0) 4=0.75 (-1) 3-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷1)×(−1, 0, 1)) 1=3.00 (1) 2=1.00 (0) 3=0.60 (-1)

This season is going to be hype! I will try to Livestream it from my side.

Hehe, it's a very weird bug.

No, do not use traction control when doing gears. You can use it afterwards if you need it, but this eliminates most of the need for it as this will give you the best acceleration for traction.

@@prtcountersteerThnx alot! This video and the other tuning-guide (made simple) one are the 2 best videos that I’ve come across regarding tuning on GT! Short and straight to the point.

Name looks familiar! Probably!

Thanks. This is just from a bunch of random videos. Show me the one you are talking about sometime! I'm not against other people sending me their great finishes, too. 😁

escort with the jump is my fav

@@Zephyr_GT Ron and I were going at it! I took a risk and almost banged out because of not LoL, I watched the replay on that one, he actually won and let off at the end but it still gave it to me. Weird bug!

All in good fun! 😺

It's a blast if you want it to be. 😁

GT7's tuning IS far from realistic. I tried the same thing and tried other guides and they made it overly complicated. Glad it's helped give you some direction and go out and have fun exploring different options!

@@prtcountersteer just annoying I found this and in 2 weeks they’re changing the physics again.

@@markygti138 I know. I am wondering what they will be doing as well. Hopefully a better tire model. The cars could do much better than they currently are. Either way, it's good to brush up on it, it will make it easier to adapt when the time comes.

@@prtcountersteer so the World Series guys have tested it and said it’s suspension changes but given the cars will now use Michelin tyres I wonder if they have some real world data to use for new tyre models?

@markygti138 I assume they will. The suspension has been understeering badly for a few patches now, but it's the tire model I feel that is lacking. Who knows! I will probably do a video of the update and the changes I feel and others feel. PRT has almost 30 members and we are a tuning group who experiment with everything in a myriad of different racing seasons. I'm sure we would figure out what they changed. This was the previous patch updates, not mentioned, but what we had found out . . . Patch V1.31 Updates - Braking feels better, but the cars now want to brake in a straight line. With that said. A slight tap of the brakes on a corner helps the front drop and give a bit more angle. - Hand Brake is really improved and you can hold onto it much longer now as long if you have shifted the body weight before hand. - Tire grip is not as good as it use to be. - Need more throttle control to get the cars to hook up coming out of corners. You will spin the hell out of your tires now. - Rear downforce now increases understeer even more. Downforce in general is not as affective as it once was and some cars even had their numbers lowered for applicable downforce. - Toe is more sensitive to changes now, lower numbers is probably best. - Natural Frequency is softer in general now and I notice a lot of cars are now bottoming out against the fenders and killing any turn radius you had before. - Anti-Roll Bar is more sensitive to changes now and has a more dramatic affect on how the car's body rolls. - LSD settings have been altered and will GREATLY affect your initial turn in on corners. You don't need as high numbers, especially on Acceleration and Braking. *Food for thought: All the cars are driving different and they wont be driving like they use to. Don't try to tune it to extremes to get back to how it use to be, you will only be spinning out. I recommend trying a car you haven't driven and tuning it. It will help with learning how the game is now. I think possibly not running the roll cage and body Rigidity may help recover some turning ability without hindering the car and giving a crazy amount of 'rebound' ( when the car snaps away from you ). Lowering all dampening should give more pivot to the car. Softer natural frequency helps. Transmission gearing need to be made longer in the first 2-3 gears to compensate for the lack of traction this update. --------------------------------- Patch v1.30: Camber is starting to have negative affects. Can run it 0.00 and be better off. Another physics change with weight shifting now makes the cars more dramatic. Braking balance has changed and become more touchy. --------------------------------- Patch v1.27: - Cars now have even more steering angle which increases oversteer. - Steering wheel adapter functions better. - Camber now has increased, more realistic, effect! - Roll Cage updated again; higher level roll cages add even more stiffness to car instead of all of them having the same value. - Weight balance between acceleration and braking more pronounced. Believe they are trying to force more straight line braking. --------------------------------- Patch v1.25: - Roll Cage now makes the car stiffer/flatter around corners which eliminates some body roll thus inducing understeer. - Chassis Rigidity also does the same and is more pronounced this patch. ---------------------------------

Thanks! A lot of people have never seen the original. 😁

You stretch a lot of things Jeff. I don't know if your religion would allow me to say. 😁 Great job as usual. You're not the same racer you were in the S2K vs BRZ series. You've become an animal that we have learned to respect. We may have butted heads in some things, but you showed true and I respect you for that. You're formidable no matter the odds these days. You have grown a lot and you will always have MY respect. ❤️

@@prtcountersteer Thank you very much!

Anytime! Good luck on your tuning. 😁

Anytime! Hope it helps and have fun tuning. 😊

Is there a way to join all of you racing?

Yes, you can find our group on Facebook. Just search "PRT".

Awesome! This is going to be fun! ❤️

*Gasp!* He is great! How do you know him mini-Shadow! 😮

@@prtcountersteer He's my father, he showed me your videos recently!

@@minishadow0407 Ohhh! He is one of the fastest drivers I have ever met!

@minishadow0407 you go and ask that shadow character if he can hear that sound. The sound of curb sneaking up behind him to take the lead so hard and leave him in a daze asking for "just 1 more race."

psssh... Just keep drinking that kool-aid son...LOL!🤣

I think you couldn't make it? We were going at it! Blue was boxing me in! I was fighting for my life! But, this was some top notch racing with multiple positions being exchanged and there was never really a break in any of it!

Nice! If I label these as 4K, that's the top quality I can do! Bet it looked good! Today's race we will be in lobbies together. You may see me. 😼

It's an honor to race you, NZer! That was some on the edge of the seat racing with no real moments to relax. Us three kept changing up positions and not taking any of each other out. You don't see that kind of racing too much in GT7! It was very interesting to see with the different cars, different tunes, how it all played out. I did enjoy the 282 HP / 2,000 lbs minimum "Street Wars" series!

Anytime! Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions. Happy tuning!

Haha, great to hear! Keep on exploring and you will be able to do even further combinations! Some cars make so much power, you have to stretch 2nd and sometimes 3rd further to the right to find some bite! Some cars just don't bite well, but taming that throttle control helps so much. Happy tuning and have fun! 😁

Averages on most straights in the game between low and high downforce is about 13 MPH. Not worth it in my opinion. That time will easily be made up in corners on most tracks. But, you have to test that and find out for yourself. 😁

@@prtcountersteer are you from PA?

@@TecraTube Yup.

Thanks! Hope it helps! Let me know how it goes and happy tuning!

Hope it helps! You will probably have to bog down first gear a good bit on the civic and bog down with a long second gear spread, but it should do good!

No, it sold.

@@prtcountersteer Dangit. Do you happen to know where I might find a similar vehicle for sale?

@@werewolffamguy8597 I don't think there will be another that is similar. My friend Steve purchased this and re-did the entire car. It came out in top condition before he had sold it. It was definitely a looker!

@@prtcountersteer Ah, well. I suppose I'll have to keep chasing them! Thanks for your time 🙂

@werewolffamguy8597 Good luck in your search!

We are in a group party chat while playing the game together.

That's a good way to do it. During this time, I was tuning for a race on Grand Valley Highway. 😁

Welcome to the game! It has so many different things you can do with your car. I tried to make it as simple as possible. Hope it helps and have fun! If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

@@prtcountersteer it's an 86 grb rally. My first laps were 221. Xxx at the trial mountain. By the time I finished I was at 205.772.

@@prtcountersteer I actually do have a question. I didn't realize till I was all done that I had forgot to add my high power turbo. So I added it on and re arranged the gear ratios. Slight tweaking on the downforce. I haven't been back to trial mountain but the car seems fine. Going forward. Should I do suspension and all that with the mods off the car or would you recommend having them on?

@@danburch8880 Wow, that's a HUGE improvement! Great job! As far as the parts, put them on first then adjust the car.

@@prtcountersteer 👍thanks!

Haha, gaming can be fun! Especially when getting into the finer details of Turismos car tuning! Happy to have helped, if you have any other questions - feel free to ask! Go get him and have fun racing! 😁

Thanks! You can do it with any tires and car modifications.

@@prtcountersteer you suggest modifying completely the suspension and then try it out and do adjustments, or for example; modifying the height and test it right away.

Yes, do one row at a time until you get a better understanding of what is happening with the car. This is a good way to "feel" it out. Once you get how it affects the car, you can do it anyway you want and it will be faster.

@@prtcountersteer thank you so much, my car is 100% better now!!

Thanks. Red Nation coming!!

Ah, that's weird. Maybe it has something to do with how iPhone saves the picture formats. Either way, glad it worked for you! If you find a solution to the iPhone way, I am all ears!

Ah, I know you! Glad it worked out, text is pretty easy! I will do a video on images sometime as that takes a bit more gusto. I'm not good at actual art making but getting stuff to work, I can do that!

Thanks! The full race is on RU-vid, I made a huge mistake 1st lap and it all came down to that last corner. I took a chance hooking to curb to throw the car through the corner faster. 🤤

Thanks! This one was surprising! The other driver and I were about equal in terms of skill, but he had the track knowledge over me and it showed. He had much cleaner lines then I, but I knew my Mustang better than he did. Still, after that mistake on 1st lap, you could see me limit testing 2nd lap, I caught up a bit but it wasn't enough so I took a gamble 3rd lap on hooking the tires into that groove to throw me around the corner.

I totally forgot about this and was clearing out my folders and re-read what he was saying . . . Man, it steamed me right up with how full of BS he is. Next time, I'll try to put a warning LoL 😂

@prtcountersteer ya what a dummy. literally when I jumped in with u and realized my single player tunes weren't working, I had some of the pranis guys tunes and tried em with u all and meh.. u guys showed me adjustments and whooped his mediocre tunes butt... Never looked back at his page🤷‍♂️. I'd love to see that original post and let that dude knew how ignorant he is. literally almost everyone in PRT can say "dude change this" just by watching my car and like magic it starts turning around🤷‍♂️

Thank you! Your videos are getting better and better! Keep at it! 😁

Thanks for this non-profit. 😊

It's a touchy car. Really likes higher numbers on the LSD and 50/50 weight ballast.

@@prtcountersteer like 60 on acceleration and brake?

@@georgevasilopoulos5359 Try maxed out 60 throughout all of it. What makes LSD tuning tricky is, it greatly influences how the car is, so you sort of have to make adjustments for the suspension to compensate. What issue are you having with yours? This is me in a random race online with mine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w3UXwgqIBGE.htmlsi=HPtIruPBK1jncPAd

@@prtcountersteer I can't exactly tell what issue but at least it drives better than before. I'm gonna max them out in a little bit.

@@prtcountersteer Ok I maxed the diff things out. I think it drives better now.

Yes, you are. You either have the drive or you don't. It's fantastic to do!