Ive heard from horticulturists that this is mostly a myth. It has a slight chance of maybe affecting seedlings, but even then theres not much research to prove it.
What about in a hedgerow bed? I have 60 masaki shrubs along the front yard between a fence and logs separating the hedge row and the lawn. Is it going to harm the masaki shrubs, which are about chest high? I also have 50 large bags of this stuff that I've already picked up from the store.
Thanks for the explanation, I have a driveway and yard where large transport trucks come though on a regular basis that turn around and back up etc. I also have a lot of water running through and washout from the angle on the yard. What holds up best for that? 1/2"?
Ridiculous statement, all mulch has chemicals and dyes that plants rather not be around.. Cedar is the best wood to keep bugs away, bugs eat your plants and gardens,.. use cedar mulch! If you are worried about the dyes, find organic cedar mulch which isn't dyed (but may not looks as "Pretty" but your plants will thank you for it). Then put up a concrete barrier, because all the chemicals your neighbors are using, are just blowing over to your house! ... so many idiots in the world lying to people. Nothing will be perfect, unless you have a few acres of land on all four sides of your property, that can't be affected by the rest of the world. You also better live in a toxic-free air state... because pollutants from big to small cities, just pollute everything. It's such a joke to see these big cities build gardens in the middle of buildings, traffic, factories, and all the POLLUTION! LOL
What is the chemical referred to in this article? What scientific research backs up the statement that "cedar exudes a chemical that plant roots don't like"?
The 3/4" to dust limestone gravel that you call "road base" is typically called "Crusher Run" in the South by most of the people who sell it. It's different from straight 3/4" (usually called #57 limestone) as it has dust in it. I've found that Crusher Run only works well when the base below it is good. If you have sand or "prairie soil" that is not stable, I use a compacted base of red clay gravel at least 6" thick, usually 12" thick, then put Crusher Run down, but if the soil is just slightly bad, I compact the natural in-situ soil, then lay a thicker 1-1/2" limestone gravel which is usually called "Railroad Rock", but it's stone, not rock. Note that rock like "river rock" is also sold as "#57" & neither it nor "pea gravel" are suitable for driveways as they don't compact well. Also note that the people who sell raw materials are not the smartest people in the world & many of them use different terms for the same materials, so whoever you talk to, make sure you explain the consistency you want & its use before you order, and even better, take a trip to the yard or pit to inspect it. Also only buy from sellers who weigh their trucks & provide a receipt showing the actual weight to the 100th of a ton, like 26.52 tons, which is a typical 20-yd load in the old terminology. In most cases, the "pit" is a misnomer as it's usually just a yard where it's being held by a retailer when it's carted in from a pit they bought it from. Most of the stone in my state comes from one area --- Calera, AL, as it's the southernmost pit, so it serves all of Central & South Alabama being the closest to those areas.
Hey I was wondering if you could help me. I have a gravel driveway. It's not crusher run, and it's not railroad rock, it's inbetween. Sort of the size of a gumball. It's falling apart and it's only one-two inches thick. I don't know what to buy to fix this. Do I need to remove all of it? Or can I just put something ontop. I want it to be done right the first time around, so I'm willing to listen to any options.
@@shellykind If it's a gray limestone, you can add 3/4" Crusher Run to it and it will bind the 2 together. If it's a river rock like pea gravel, i.e., a yellowish brown color mix like what they add to concrete or what you see in rock garden beds, it won't ever compact, and you need to remove it & start over. A full 20-ton (appx 27-ton) load of 3/4" Crusher Run spread 4" thick at 10' wide will cover appx 162 linear feet of driveway. That costs $600 in my area, but it depends on how close you are to the pit & the market rate in your area. You then compact it to 3" thick. The best machine is a smooth roller, but a decent-sized bulldozer or even a large backhoe will do in a pinch to get compaction. You can also go the hard route & rent a jumping jack tamper from your local equipment rental store, and it will work, but it's a tough job to tamp that much area; they wear out the toughest guys by the end of the day.
What do you think of the honey comb like depot ground grid on a slope that my crush n run tends to get wash out and spread out to stabilize the new crush n run ? Thanks .
@@WilliamStewart1 Sorry, just now seeing this post 3 years later. I've never used crushed granite as we don't have that product in our area. I built a home for a customer in what looked like white beach sand like you'd see 200 miles south at Panama City Beach, and the geotech engineer who did the soils report for the foundation said it was pulverized granite which happened 82 million years ago when a meteor hit in that area. But I use granite countertops exclusively in my homes.
