You always test for moisture, and you always use a moisture barrier if it is within tolerances. You warranty the product but not the concrete. You need to know what you are getting into before you do one. There are ways to mitigate some of these issues. Not all concretes are created equal. Meaning one pour can be different from one cement to the other. Shot blast or grind to CSP 2 to 3. Acid wash is junk.
Does the moisture test work for brand new concrete with a sealer? Would a moisture mitigating primer help after grinding? It's a brand new construction, so it probably has plastic
They do make these click together squares that look cool. One brand name comes to mind is swisstrax. I think they're expensive, but there's other cheaper alternatives out there that I haven't done too much research. If one square gets damaged, they're easily replaceable, they sit on top of floors like the floating vinyle floors
Mr Stephen's video on showing what is done way before Lose gravel is poured and leveled and then water mixed poured gravel cement is leveled, he's showing that plastic is being laid down before the epoxy enamel is applied ,this makes a hell of lot more sense, it's so dam simple
Well done. I don’t know if you actually used the word primer or not in the video. Adding a low viscosity primer would be other thing I always recommend. Follow those steps any never have a failure. (3 coat system) low viscosity primer, 100% solids intermediate coat, flake, polyaspartic topcoat.
@@brandocommando4459 we completely transformed our business into material sales now. We sold all of our equipment so I can't record any more installations. I would still like to record some videos, most likely it will be other contractors installing the materials though
this information is not accurate. First of all no one is going to turn the job down if the client says we just want you to do it and we won’t hold you liable if anything happens in the future , and, of course, have them sign a document stating those facts . Secondly : I’ve been in the business for 20 years and all you need to do put a 2 part solvent-based vapor barrier epoxy down on the floor after you profile and then clean it. That will serve 2 purposes 1- it prevents moisture from leeching up from the bottom referred to as (hydrostatic pressure ) and it also acts as a primer for the two-part pigmented epoxy to adhere to , and then you always top coat with a two-part polyurethane or Polyaspartic clear coat .Your welcome .
I was coming here to say business must be good for him to be using a husqavarna. But after watching the video I was just looking for this comment 😂 I do eurea/ poly aspartic floor systems
Thanks for reaching out! If you're dealing with moisture in your floor and looking for alternative flooring options, I'd recommend considering one of these three options: interlocking garage floor tiles, epoxy sealers/penetrating sealers, or concrete stain. Floor tiles are easy to install over existing concrete, and they providing a durable and waterproof surface that allows moisture to evaporate. Epoxy sealers or penetrating sealers create a protective barrier against moisture, while still allowing the concrete to breathe. And if you prefer a more decorative option, concrete stain can enhance the appearance of the floor while still allowing moisture to evaporate. Each of these options has its benefits, so it ultimately depends on your specific needs and preferences. Let me know if you have any other questions or need further assistance!
You can still coat but you need to do a moisture vapor barrier coat first. There are 100% solid epoxys that have up to 25lb mvb control. Then you can layout your pigmented base coat + flake, scrape it, then seal with a high-solids polyaspartic coat
Good Job guys!! I'm a residential painting contractor in Denver and want to get into commercial. I used to work for a commercial painting company so i know the in's and outs. if you could offer any advice for someone like me to get Commerical leads, what would it be? Thanks.
Thanks for reaching out! Breaking in to commercial is simple, but it can be hard also. I’d start with picking out a commercial property manager or management company and call them. Ask them how to pursue repaint/maintenance painting projects for them. Then, follow up like crazy. Don’t forget that you need a truckload of insurance. Best of luck!
He doesn't wanna ruin the paint on the top side and is either too lazy to get another ladder or doesn't have one. Meaning he should've started from the bottom
Fine paints of Europe Hollandlac is marine grade. It does require more work on the painters part but you do not need to be certified, just know how to avoid the dust in the finish is the number one thing. It also does not break down as easily as you are saying
Richard, I am sooooo proud of you. All of your hard work is paying off. Congratulations to all of your success AND The Channel 11 building looks AWESOME! Whoop Whoop!
Great question! We generally recommended to remove the painter's tape after the paint partially dries but before it fully dries. This will help to make sure that the tape comes off cleanly without damaging the painted surface or pulling off any paint with it.
@@stephenspainting It damaged the brick, can't breathe, and locks in moisture causing decay. People sandblast brick after graffiti, they don't use repaint to cover it up. It may be ok, you decide.
You are CORRECT! an unexperienced painter could easily damage the brick this way. Brick needs to be properly sealed and cleaned before a job like this, another reason to leave it up to the professionals. Like us. :)
