PJm8047 it's a little tight, but you can work between the holes in the k-frame. If you have a leak off the block, it more than likely is the paper gasket between the block and pump, but the O-ring can dry out after a long time and cause the pump to pull air. Although it's rare, I haven't heard about it often.
Would the spring on the throttle lever on the trans help to prevent late shifts? My throttle lever immediately engages with any throttle i'm using a 2 barrel holley sniper and lokar kickdown cable.
I'm no expert, but from my understanding the spring helps the cable to return properly. That's the main issue with most aftermarket setups. This is to help with shifts under normal operation at mid to low rpm. If you are having full throttle late shifts, could be a governor issue or the cable is out of adjustment. Hope this helps!
Thank you for pointing that out! Yes, grade 5 would work as well. The torque on these is pretty low. Without knowing the country of origin of the bolts at my hardware store, I just went stronger to be safe.
In my opinion it was. It does help a little with the distance, nothing crazy, but where the bulbs really help are they brighten everything in front of you.
B-bodies we're all the same from 1966-70 underneath, when 71 and up came around things changed a bit. But I would think this process would be close to the same. As I don't think Chrysler would spend the money to change the unibody floor pan significantly to change the mounting system. I say try it and see if she comes out!
I'm not very big, had to take out the P side bucket seat anyway so I braced myself against the dash after covering the seat bottom with a towel and just pushed with both legs. I was surprised it came out that easy, then the other side was even easier. I'll be taking the armrests out before removing the backseat back. If you've never taken them out before make sure you clean off any rust and put a small amount of lubricant like lithium grease on those hooks on the floor before putting them back in.
I wonder what the implications of the transmission lockdown moving with all throttle movements. The mechanical linkage on original cars doesn’t move that valve (or linkage) until 3/4 to full throttle
Thank you for your comment! The cable has a large amount of adjustment to compensate for this, if you would like to adjust the throw in this way. What I video'd was how I had mine setup as an example. I will reiterate, however, this same setup is sold by a reputable company in the Mopar community with their own special plate to adapt this same cable to the carburetor for 3 times the price. All I did was use this plate for inspiration to come up with my own way of connecting this cable. In addition, this cable was used by Chrysler on the evolution of the 727/904 the 42RH/46RH which still used a similar valve body and the same method of applying pressure to the kickdown lever to control shifts. So if there was an issue of moving the kickdown lever in time with the throttle it would have reared its head here, in my opinion. If someone reading this has concerns, I would reach out to your local transmission shop for professional advice.
@@opietinkers yeah it might be fine. I just know that there is more slack in that old mechanical linkage. Maybe not as much as I initially said. I’m trying to rig one up for a 727 to a gen 3 hemi. With the throttle body still. So I’m just researching stuff
@@re-geargarage I get what you are saying, I played around with the kick-down arm a bit through and the first 1/8th to a 1/4 of travel there is honestly very little resistance. So I doubt the line pressure is fluctuating much with those inputs. Would be interesting to see with a gauge on the transmission though. I just don't have one of those. Also, to point you in some direction for your project I noticed BBK makes a throttle body that does look like it has a kick-down stud on it. It isn't cheap, but may help with your problem. I have also heard of people welding a bracket to their throttle pedals and attaching the trans kick-down there for these sorts of applications. Usually a Lokar style cable is used for these situations because it is easy to mod the cable end that normally attaches to the carburetor to work in this spot. I would also check out the Hemi Half swap on Vice Grip garage. His truck runs a full Hemi swap that I believe is cable, not sensor, controlled, you may find some inspiration there. Good Luck!
