Hello David, just looked yr video and want to give it a try. However, I cannot find exactly the same products you are using. Not on Amazon either. Maybe because I am in the Netherlands. Can you help me out? Has the packaging been changed maybe? Thanks a lot!
Doesn't posting this video then saying "don't do this send to Canon" defeat the whole purpose of it? This video also only shows a temporary fix that doesn't address the root cause, all this does is make the rubber the dial is made of grip better on its inner circle. For now. Common sense(along w/your finger) should tell you the root cause of the main dial skipping or otherwise working sporadic is caused by this rubber wheel stretching & no longer gripping the internal selector firmly. There's another YT video showing a more proper & permanent fix to shorten/reconnect this dial. But it does require a bit of skill vs. spraying solvent inside your camera. Deliberate or not, it's a shame Canon switched to an expiration date rubber dial from the practically indestructible compsite plastic dial of my 1987 EOS 620 film camera which is still solid as new. It's also a shame Canon seems to have fallen prey to the game of other huge corporations by now making their cameras w/parts clearly not meant to last. They've even gone one step further in that they put service expiration dates on their high-end cameras/lenses. In other words, in 2025 they'll no longer service our 7D MkII & even L lenses so it's definitely a good idea to verify these dates & keep in mind!
Mine got stiffer and stiffer to turn over a pretty short time. my 7d2 shows a bit of the same but nowhere as bad as the 5d4. The wheel’s adjust function seems ok, only this damn stiffness, I feel it may even seize up although thats the gloomy view. ive seen £600 quoted for this job from Canon UK, seems Canon’s approach is to replace the entire top assembly. But Canon has always charged repair prices likely to push the owner towards buying a new camera, as a company theyre very greedy. This fault arises in several of their top models and canon clearly made no attempt to rectify the fault at design stage. if I didnt have a bag of L grade lenses Id jump ship PDQ probably to Sony kit. But cant afford to.
So I just did the same procedure and I found out that it started slipping again after a few days. For me it turned out the rubber dial was slipping on the metal gear under it. I used a dental pick and some super glue. Use the dental pick (or like object) to pull back the rubber dial and get a small ATOM of super glue on a pin head NOT a drop of glue. Touch the metal area under the rubber dial. Release the rubber slowly until it seats back in place. Rotate the dial 180º and do the process again. I can not stress this enough, DO NOT use a drop of glue it will be TOO MUCH. I used a tooth pick and it looked like there was no glue on it. When that is complete rotate the dial and observe that no super glue in between the dial and the body. It WILL make the dial so it will not turn. When you are certain there is no glue between the dial and the body keep rotating the dial a few minutes to make certain the glue is dry and that it didn't freeze the dial from rotating. Here is a link to the video I used. martybugs.net/blog/blog.cgi/gear/bodies/Fixing-Slipping-Main-Dial-On-A-Canon-DSLR.html Actually I used both methods but the method in this video did not last for me. I believe that the spray makes a "temporary" glue and eventually the rubber starts to slip again.
Tried this last night, and it seems to have worked! I suspect that the contact cleaner clears out grease and such that gets between the rubber wheel and the inner, plastic wheel. Great, painless solution! Cheers!
Well, I'll be! I had the same problem with the main dial on my 5D M IV. I followed your instructions very closely and it worked! The dial works like new. Thanks for saving me a lot of money and aggravation. It cost me just over $18 for the two cans and took less than 5 minutes to fix the camera.
Another satisfied customer!! The top dial of my 5D MK IV was very hit and miss…just like described in your video. I got the two products you mentioned at Home Depot today and followed your directions. The first time did not resolve it….so had to do another round. It worked like a charm! For anyone trying this…the spray of the duster after applying the contact cleaner is an important step…I think. It resulted in contact cleaner working its way back out of the top dial opening. Wtihout this step…you might get some “pooling” of the contact cleaner inside the top dial….even though it is quick drying. Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you soooo much !!! I used to apply this kind of fix for other electronic devices, but I didn’t think about using a contact cleaner for my 5d IV dials ! Grip dial and top dial are working perfectly now 👍👍👍
Hint: sometimes the dust blower is enough, I was gonna follow this procedure on my 5D mark III and it fixed the issue with just the dust blower and a few wheel spins. I'd keep the contact cleaner as last resort.
Absolute legend!! I was literally just about to open my 5dmk3 to swap out the dial for another one. Figured I would give this a go first and boom, we're back in business. All working again and only took me 5 minutes! Thanks a lot for this video!
@@jasonhughes3481Thanks for the update! Bought one used with very few clicks a couple of weeks ago and it's starting to skip, very rarely and subtle but it does happen. Waiting for the contact cleaner to arrive, hopefully it fixes it!
Thank you! I was about to take mine apart and put a new dial in and saw this…took the risk and gave it a shot. Worked like a dream and no dramas. Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
You're a life saver. I've been dealing with a skipping dial for 3 years now and was about to sell my 5dm4 until I saw this. Had to do it twice, but it worked!
@@ludovicschmitt I used a syringe filled up with isopropyl alcool. Pay attention to not get hurt with the needle, and remember to remove your battery. I poured the isopropyl alcohol behind the wheel (or in front, I don't remember exactly, I looked how the spare part was made to find the internal contacts used by the gear), putting the slanted part of the needle tip in parallel to the rubber gear. I gently squeezed some isopropyl alcohol and got the gear spin manually back and forth. I then whistled with the air blower to let the isopropyl alcohol evaporate faster. I then put back the battery after being sure everything was dry again.
