Good video, thanks. But My only question is regarding which primer to use, do you just use a regular large rifle primer or do you need a "Berdan" primer? Thanks
You need a berdan primer. And also there are different sizes of berdan primers, more so than regular boxer primers. Problem is right now, Russia and Ukraine make most of the world's berdan primers and due to sanctions and the war, there are no new supplies coming in. So you are left to buy on the secondary market for now, if you can find them.
@@wanneroo7106 Interesting, thanks. Yeah I felt dumb asking that, kind of expected that all primers were the same and it was just the flash holes that differed. And that is why we ask questions now isn't it. Thanks dude
Yes it shouldn’t be doing that. I had that issue earlier this year and took it to the local Toro dealer and turned out some cable got out of adjustment. Once he fixed that I was back in business. I’ll be covering that in my update video. Mines working great just did a big trim job around a bunch of rock walls
Yes, I researched it further. I have been mega busy this year and just took it to the dealer without looking into it, but looks like it's in the owners manual and is user serviceable, so I'll be including this in the video coming up.
Well, for new app presses slap a little valve lapping compound on the sliding parts for a faster break in. Once it's free float a dab of mother billet polish and running it some more will top it off and run smooth as silk. There's also a tension screw on the side to adjust free float.
It's funny how many hacks all of us have come up with to make this press work well. Overall once mine wore in it was pretty good. I used it extensively for a while and prepped so much brass I still have bins of it and hence haven't used it for at least a year or more. But surely this fall will get it going again.
@@wanneroo7106 I've come to realize that pretty much anything mechanical related to guns that moves, lapping compound and polishing seems to always make it work better.....except eyeballs and aiming, hadn't figured out that one yet 😁
Well long story on that one. I think Rubbermaid took over the Sonic Scrubber here in the USA. I am actually using Rubbermaid microfiber refill pads in this vid. Here is the Amazon link for the Rubbermaid Scrubber Ultimate kit: amzn.to/4cVG8XL The Sonic Scrubber brand is still sold in the UK and Japan and on occasion a few bits and bobs will be sold here on Amazon USA right here: amzn.to/45YWAEa I love the Sonic Scrubber, my original power unit broke after 20 years of use, so I got a new one a few years ago and still use some of the original attachments too.
Both work pretty good. I have done some testing with them on my channel. Check out my long form videos. I am gradually testing out all available small pistol primers with the same exact load to see how they all test and work and am posting the videos as I make them(which will probably take over a year in total). Coming up I have the primers from Argentina, some Federal Gold Medal Match, Sellier & Belliot, etc.
My way is very close to your way. Thx for the video. I only do load-develoment in a single-stage-press - but when I have a load to-go-with I go to the ap press. But I do it in 3 stages: Stage 1 - punch out the primer, I do alot of brass with only primer-punchout. Stage 2: I do brass-reset/prime and in Stage 3 I do: flair/powder/powder-check/bullet-seat/Lee-factory-crimp
I do so many YT reloading projects at times that I usually have to stick with one press during the whole project as the other presses are jammed up with other projects. Now that I have more shop space I am looking at adding another press or two to ease the burden.
About every 5000 rounds of so I find it is worthwhile to take the shell plate off, clean up any mess, lube everything if needed, replace the spring and so on. The press in the end functions better over the long term in my opinion.
There are several powders that are exactly the same. I noticed that making a spreadsheet of every load I can find in books and on manufacturer websites. The modern reloading book shows exactly the same data for 110 and 296. IMR 4227 and another powder are the same too, but I forget what the other one is off the top of my head.
Cabelas has gotten better. I just visited the houston location Sunday and they had rows of powder, bullets, equipment, brass, etc. I found everything I had on my list in one stop. Academy had the Hornady sonic cleaner on sale and it cleaned my dirty range brass (shot through a suppressor so extra dirty) in 15 mins. I also threw my baffles in there and they look brand new!
I think the shortages are pretty much over at this point and I am seeing a lot of sales. Especially as we head into late summer 2024 I think there will be some great sales coming down the pike.
I just started reloading 300 blackout. Your videos will be extremely useful. One question: I have seen multiple sources from powder manufacturers that they are using small rifle ,magnum primers, especially for loads designed for short barrels. The thought is the primer delivers a stronger ignition of the powder, helping to ensure as much is burned as possible in the short barrel. I picked up 1,000 CCI 450 SRM primers for the same price as CCI 410 and plan to just use those for all of my loads. My barrel is 6.5”. Have you tried the 450’s?
Yes, the thing is we are essentially using magnum pistol powders and I find a magnum type primer just works better. I did try regular small rifle primers on my 150g Hornady load and they worked OK but I had to up the powder charge to get the same velocity. I just stick with the CCI #41s because they work well.
Does the bait ooze out in extreme heat conditions? I plan on using this outside in a shaded area but the temps still rise into the 110-117 range during the day time high. Just wondering if the bait will liquify and run out of the machine and make a mess.
I don't know for sure as I never have temps that high. If you are concerned my suggestion is to use a drier bait in a little basket they have that screws in. I have used peanuts, cashews, dried cherries worked well one time, etc. or a mix and match. I will leave a little nibble on the tray and then if they eat that they look up and go oh there's more and bang. I found though that type of bait went stale quicker so I would replace it more frequently.
Thanks, I aquired 1 of these in a bunch of reloading gear. You explained it well. I have never used 1 like this as I always had the hand type. I'm over 60 now and my hands are not as strong as they were. I'll get it out the box and see if it came with all the parts.
Well the cool thing about this tool is there really isn't much in the way of parts except for the primer tubes and the primer rods for large and small primers, plus you will need a regular shellholder for whatever cartridge you are priming. It's a very simple tool. For mounting I recommend the RCBS accessory plate, it just makes it easy to mount to a wood bench. RCBS has all the parts in case you need them and as far as I know will ship to Australia.
you cant do the hole reloading process in once. You need to split it up in: 1: depriming/rezising - priming - flaring 2. powder - powdercheck - bulletseating - factory-crimp then it will work smoothly 😉
Yes. Please update with more tips and tricks. I ended up getting the earthquake only because it was available locally. I needed to start now and not wait another week to 10 days. I will also try some of your strings which I'll order tonight. Thanks again for your vids.
we went from a john deere gator diesel to a used kubota rtv 900 diesel , 2005 model year have to change rear axles since has 1700 hrs on it but with diesel not too worried , the head has been changed thus far seems to be good, i like the hydro trans and not a belt - going down a hill seems to be stable
Yes, that is one great thing about the Kubota 900 is going down hills, I certainly miss that ability compared to the Can Am. I think probably in most cases that diesel motor will outlive everything else on the vehicle. I never did have any problem with the hydrostatic transmission that I can recall.
I put tons of stock into it, because that is how I will shoot it all the time. I think it's quite nice when folks use a ransom rest and it's nice to know that data of what the gun and ammo will do on it's own but the reality is it's not always practical in cost, time of setup, filming, editing, etc. I have aimed with all of my content to keep it somewhat practical, relatable and reasonable in what a regular person would be doing or be able to do.
Thanks for taking the time to review the mower/trimmer. Also, thanks for your comments on the different lines you used. Question: Why did you pick the toro over the other brands? I'm looking and hard to get a read on the reviews. They all say theirs is great. I'm about to order one very soon and appreciate your review and tips. Thanks.
I am backed up on videos but am working on a 2024 update video for the Trimmer Mower and what I have learned and experienced with it since I dropped the original video and some tweaks I made. Why did I get it? I've had a great experience with a regular Toro lawn mower. Probably the best mower I have owned or used for a long time. Cost was factor, along with size and weight. 70 pounds I can lift and transport around the farm. I have a big DR Brush Mower and it's so big, it almost requires it's own logistics operation to support it and as a result I rarely use it, unfortunately. The Toro, it does have some limitations though, it's not a brush hog and a few other things. I just used mine tonight to clean up along a rock wall, which it excels at.
@@wanneroo7106 i just happen to know what a 380 will do to somebody from experiance. they are not the weakling some people think they are is where i came up with that
firing direction is road side very dangerous. when i was in Army S.Korea , there was accident bullets fired over the little mountain and hit car and people.
This is at an established range with a safe backstop shooting down into the ground with safety rules and a safety officer. We don’t do anything unsafe.
The lead is a bit tougher to get to run in a 1911 that’s a fat little bullet and they grip a bit on the tip for the 3 points of contact. But if u size em and seat em the right depth their pretty good
Majority of tips and what not that you see regarding using flitz on pistol feed ramps and internals is to not use sand paper, I think the most aggressive thing I’ve seen suggested is a paper towel lol.
Ended up buying some polishing tips and mother's mag and aluminum polish, polished it, cleaned n oiled it, took it the range. Shot smooth as butter . Thanks for the reply man