Hey, Welcome to my channel! My name is Kyle also known as OMGTeggy. I post all about cars and mainly my 2000 Acura Integra! If you have a Honda or enjoy car videos this is definitely a channel for you! Enjoy the videos and hope to see your feed back in the comments!
That oil leak is most likely coming from your rear main seal. Oil will leak where the transmission and engine meet together. Only reason I say this is because mines leaks on my ‘86 2.9 ranger as well. It’s a cheap seal but a lot of labor to get to and replace
i bought a 86 xl 2wd, single cab long bed, bought it with a locked up motor, rebuilt it, fought ecm problems, and have been making it go every day, just replaced my distributor, it has 113k miles on it, sounds amazing, only thing i am complaining about now is still has abit of hesitation sometimes. but not horrible
Tengo una 2.9 v6 89 extra cab & 4x4 es una buena máquina. Lo único que no me gusta es el sonido de los balancines (track track) sabes como solucionar eso? Te lo agradecería.
I have the same model and use it for doggie accidents. However I found that if you're going to vacuum up a lot of water, take off the shammy filter and just use the foam filter, because once that shammy is saturated the motor can't breath and will shut off.
I’d recommend it but only if you can find the filters. I can’t find any so that’s been a little tough. I know Home Depot sells something similar for the filter
Hey budro, can you give me a quick run down on what I need to do do swap a b20 from b-18? Manual trans. Oil Pump and Crank Sensor ive been told? Did you buy new Pump or how did you do the work around? I have my LS intake I can use. IS there anything else i need to research? Cheers
Hey man, you definitely don't need to swap out the oil pump not sure where you got that info but thats wrong. The crank position sensor is a piece of cake just look up the wiring diagram and you just solder the wires together at the ECU. Intake manifold is different and will need to be swapped from the b18 to the b20. Other than that its pretty much a direct swap. Motor mounts are slighly different as well so you need to use your stock ones. If you run into any problems just hit me up.
@@kys_garage898 Thanks for taking the time to reply. That is just what needed. I actually have an extra ECU laying around so i might look that up. I have had my tegs forever and my 98 finally gave out at 316,000 miles/ Im gonna get a B20 from HMO and hopefully get it back on the road. if you get bored you can check out the few teg vids I have scattered on my channel. You make awesome vids man. Thank you
@@kys_garage898 Hey, I am about to start swapping the B18b1 out for the JDM B20. I have researched the CKF bypass and Im go that route. I had a question. Can I keep the same Crank pulley that comes on the b20 for the swap or do i need to use the LS Crank Pulley? Will the Standard bando Belts fit on the B20 Crank pulley etc. I was just wondering if the same belts i always use will work after the swap. I cant wait to get this engine in! Thanks in advance if you find time to comment.
The ticking was terrible when I used 10w30 Now I use 15w40 diesel oil T6 shell Never really hear the lifter tick until I get off a long high way trip then goes away in a minute
Watch for freeze plugs rusting through and starting to leak antifreeze coolant. Usually starts to leak slowly at first. Not hard to replaced if you can access the leaking one. Or use the better Blue Devil sealer works
One word of caution for anyone that has the extended cab 4 x 4 that has the skid plate that protects the gas tank. Not sure how many models have the skid plate. It’s a nice feature but just one time playing in the mud, that mud cakes in and gets trapped in the frame wedged between the gas tank and above the skid plate, and that mud will never come out of there till the end of time unless you dig it out with as if cleaning teeth. As a result, the steel brake lines are guaranteed to rust through in that location. Guaranteed. I had to replace brake line the hard way without removing the bed. I advise people with the same model ranger to reroute that brake line if they have the bed off for other reasons
I have a 92 Ranger 4x4 basic custom trim package, AM radio, no air conditioning..almost mint condition, Candy apple red 4.0. It’s a rare find them. I love it.
I had the exact same problem!!! I think they might sell them in store but never was able to find it. Home Depot might have something that you can rig up but I’d say that’s the biggest down fall for this product
So it appears you’re missing the nylon bushing that goes on your pin the same pin that the cotter pin goes through there’s supposed to be a nylon bushing I’m searching for that part number do you have any idea what it is ?
i have an aftermarket steering wheel so i just removed the whole abs sensor and wire lol, pulled the windshield wiper container and charcoal container, had some aftermarket horn kit that the previous owner had, pulled that as well, wanted to do the wire tuck but idk if im comfortable with depinning the connectors, most of them are pretty brittle and i see me breaking a few of them
Watching this video back 5 years later because I’m deciding to plastidip my TSX wagon next summer and I remember you did a pretty good job for a beginner so I’m using your video as a reference. Also was the sprayer attached to an air compressor? I actually might just grab a corded powered sprayer from Lowe’s I heard they have a pretty good one
bro howw did you fit this fender roller on the rears? I have the same tool and istg I’ve been here for 2 hours tryna work it, I did the fronts no problem, but the rear fenders it’s too tall for even on the lowest setting? Any advice you can give me cuz mine are a pain in the ass
I vaguely remember to be honest. I think at one point I got pissed off and just started doing it with a rubber mallet. I remember the backs were a pain in the butt.
My 83 ranger has the same problem but it has tons of oil leaks i have a feeling that the pump is clogged because no matter how much oil i put on it it still is super clattery.
I think these engines are just cursed with that ticking sound. But good thing is, I’ve beat the heck out of this thing toeing heavy loads and it’s been one of the most reliable vehicles I’ve had and if this engine ever does blow I’ll definitely do a rebuild.
@@kys_garage898in the last few weeks I discovered i drove 500 miles with probably 1 inch of valve lash and it still made it, so I definitely agree with the durability, i have since resolved that problem but its still a super clattery motor
