Welcome to The RedShoe, your home for vintage stereo mods and repairs. Watch these videos and learn everything you need to know to keep that vinyl spinning and your vintage equipment purring. Need to install a new belt on your turntable? Scratchy volume control? Need a new needle on your cartridge? We can help you with that! Grab your tools and cleaning supplies, it's time for a 'tune up!'
Mr. the RedShoe, really good videos regarding the SL-B2 turntable! I have this model, purchased in 1980, and it has the same problems, dust over broken at the hinges forever ago and nylon spindle gear cracked two days ago (2.17.24) You’ve shown me everything I need to know to fix my turntable but I can’t find a source for parts. I can’t find a Wildcat 3d Printing anywhere but in the UK. If you could include contact information for Wildcat I’d really appreciate it. Since they have already made the parts once, no doubt Wildcat could quickly replicate them and make a little profit. Thanks.
Hi Redshoe! Amazing video. I'm curious, did you drill out the existing holes on the PCB to fit the new copper wire ends? I have an MX1000 that I'm attempting to do something similar with. Thanks!
REGARDS FROM DOMINICAN REPUBLIC. I HAVE A TECHNICS LS-B3. WHEN THE ARM FALLS WELL THEN THE RETURN DOES IT BEFORE TIME ON THE LAST TRACK, WHEN THE RETURN WORKS WELL THE ARM FALLS FORWARD, IT GOES TO THE SECOND OR THIRD TRACK, PLEASE HELP ME WITH THAT PROBLEM. THANK YOU.
I have an Ortofon MC Tango from about 10 years ago. Still sounds good to me. Before that I had a Nagaoka Stilton, and before that the V15 III, installed in a modified GL 75
Just had this gear crack on my SL-B2. I found some 3D printed replacements on Etsy, but I have seen some older posts that said 3D plastics aren't strong enough for this part. Has anyone done this and have any experience with the durability?
What an excellent instructional video. Many thanks for this it is absolutely spot on. I have just been given back my original SL B2 which I bought new back in 1979. My sister has had it for the last 30 years and was going to throw it away along with my other Technics units, I'm glad she let me know. The turntable has multiple faults one of which is this cracked gear. I need to buy one here in UK as I want to get this working again. The belt was in many pieces and sticky but easy to find a replacement on eBay for that. I'm excited to get this working again fingers crossed. Thanks again
I want to kick myself so hard right now. I saw an amp like this last year at a flea market for 25 dollars but I didn't get it as it was broken from one pair of posts and I did not have a pre out equipped receiver
My question is…. How do you get the receptacle out of the base? They seem to pop in at the factory and don’t see how they come out. I’m moving them to a technics table that came with a rack system. It has no part of the hinge … just the cavity for it on the back of the plinth.
I have a PL-516 with an opportunity I am hoping you can help with. The auto return mechanism works well. However the platter continues to spin and the turntable stay on once the are is returned. I found a little micro-switch that is off while the table is working and turning but when I press it it shut off. However I cannot determine what is supposed to activate it. Any suggestions. I can provide pics. This table is kind of neat as you can have it sitting on its feet and remove a steel cover and have access to all of the mechanical and electrical components. Thanks regardless.
@@theredshoe1315 I'm sorry for your trouble I figured out how to fix it by thinking about some things you showed in your video. I reset this lever that touches a micro switch when you bring the arm all the way over to its resting position. Have a great Friday!
the way you attached the wiring to the end of the post on that banana terminal using that brass sleeve was absolutely BRILLIANT. great work coming up with that method, and i think i speak for everyone when i say THANK YOU for sharing it with us.
Great repair. I see you had the "Auto Class A" turned on. Is there somewhere I can find a detailed explanation to use it or not? I have the little brother, M-60! IT STILL smokes the speakers. I've gone through at least six pairs since I bought my Yamaha gear Overseas in 1986 through the PX & AFFES!
super cool!! any ideas if i have a similiar technics turntable that tonearm keeps returning....if i futz around with things i get it to stay on record but then back to returning on next playthrough..it's been sitting for decades so where do i oil or loosen w deoxit? I'll be careful.
I have a M-85 that has the A speaker terminals broken and unfortunately, the circuit board is too. Would you have a recommendation about glue to repair the board? 2-part epoxy, maybe? Also, where did you find or how did you make (size of material) those brass ferrules? Thanks for this video.
hi mike, thanks for your input. Are you referring to the back side of posts? I left them long so I could trim them for a perfect fit. What aftermarket parts did you buy? Can you send me a link? Thanks
I'm not as skilled as you that would take me along time,you should market that and make some bucks because as you said they are notorious for breaking and there are still alot out there,im bidding on a mx 800u that has the same problem I order 3 sets hopefully those will fit that m 800u also Thanks again
Mine dates back to the end of 1989, but I have the Rega RB 250 arm. Interestingly I had a Shure V15 type III at the time. Currently with an Ortofon basic MC cartridge and NAD pre-amp, which gives the best sound i ever had from it. Only mods are Litz wiring in the arm and an Origin Live mat and oil. It was £249 new, so equivalent to around £1000 today. And apparently is comparable to current tables at that price.
Thanks for the inquiry. I do not have the files I took the part to Wildcat 3D printing in Cherry Valley, Il. They do Cad work and printing. They have a facebook page if you would like to contact them.
I have a chance to get a m-40 amp. Owner says the biding post is broken. Quite confident it has the same issue as yours. Thanks for the ideas. I’m gonna try to repair using the same method
Good luck!, Im here if you get stuck. Thanks much for the kind words, much appreciated. Please join my channel and watch for my upcoming website www.red-shoe.com
@@rajoconnor Hi Randy, I used 12 ga solid copper, and fuerrels are brass tubing I bought at a local hobby shop. The original binding post ues a flat steel attachment to the circuit board inside. I opened the hole a little bit to accommodate the 12 ga wire. i bought the binding posts on Amazon, there are a whole bunch of choices at all price levels and qualities. If you need I can get a diameter on the barss if you need it.
Nice work👍 I have an M80 also that needs some similar work. Not that it's binding posts got busted, but an MX1000u that got shipped to me did and I took the parts from the M80 to repair the MX1000u. Been like this for almost ten years now lol. Might get into that project some day soon. Thanks for the tips and inspiration🍻
Good Job on the video! I recently got a Technics SL-D202 and the cueing mechanism won't go down, I sent it to my repair man and he could do anything for me but offered to exchange it for a Dual cs504. I got the cueing to go down and now it wont go up, it tried to go back to the start but slide across the vynl, I don't know what to do. The fluid has been replaced and I checked the mechanism that makes the arm go down. So now that it is stuck down I turned to you because there are no manuals or videos I have found on this issue. Any advice on this will help.
