I am a professional portrait/commercial photographer in Little Rock Arkansas. With the advent of HDSLR's I have become fascinated with video again. RU-vid provides me a great way to begin my journey from still images to video. I will share knowledge about photography through reviews and tutorials and hopefully learn more myself in the process.
If memory serves correct they do not, this is something that I believe was added to Sony cameras released in about 2017 and onward. Both the A6000 and A5100 were released in 2014.
Which camera do you have? Nikon made two versions of this, the WU-1A and WU-1B. If you have a D3200 the WU-1B won't fit... the WU-1B is for the D600/D610.
@@JeremySmithPhotography it has the port for it but because it is not positioned correctly nothing of that shape will fit. I will have to have it repaired. Thanks for your vid though. It really helped. I was going mad trying to make it fit. Cheers buddy
I made the mistake of buying the newest version of this lens. Nikon decided to switch the positions of the zoom and focus rings. This makes it difficult to shoot field sports, where the photographer must quickly zoom in and out as the action moves away and toward the camera.
I agree, even Nikon's latest Z 70-200 f/2.8 S has the zoom ring on the front. This is one of the many reasons why I no longer use Nikon as my primary system.
I already connected through the internet but I'd rather connect directly to the camera and phone. How can I go back and connect just the camera and phone without the internet? Also when you take a picture how are you able to instantly upload it to say Facebook or Instagram? One last question, how come the internet connection disconnect so quickly when you don't take pictures for a minute or two I have to keep reconnecting to the internet. Thanks for making this video.
Месяц назад
Me habria gustado un resumen, para saltar las pruebas técnicas y quedar con una impresión general. Pero muchas gracias por todo el trabajo.
Месяц назад
Gracias, siempre tengo que volver a ver cómo funcionan estas cosas. :( jejeje
Neil van Niekerk whose image I showed in the video made a blog post that outlines everything you need. 😃 neilvn.com/tangents/finding-a-solution-for-poor-low-light-auto-focus-with-mirrorless-cameras/
Mic sounds good but there’s a large static sound in the background. I can’t seem to get rid of it using the zve10. The volume is set to 1 and still hear it so loud
Hi Jeremy, many thanks for this informative presentation. I might have missed it, but I'm wondering how is the rolling shutter in 4k40 fps with the 1.2 crop factor. Is it as pronounced as 8k24 or 4k24fps? Many thanks.
@@JeremySmithPhotography I take it that if the Sony a1 & a9III don't autofocus in low light as good as the Z6III, my guess is that the Sony a7IV won't autofocus that well in low light either?
Stellar review and thank you Jeremy. I'd like to ask a favour. I think your AF test showing the Z6III's focus acquisition in low light is fantastic, and you're one of the few that's actually tested this properly. Would you be able to take shots too and see the hit rate? I'm asking because I've heard that sometimes cameras may lock on focus in low light, but then you take the picture and the focus is slightly off. The Z6 III looks confident, so I think the hit rate will still be good in low light, but I'd be interested in this comparison with the A1/A9III if time permits it for you. Thanks again for this video.
NO Mirrorless camera does that if you know what you’re doing. If you can’t see your exposure is probably off and you can prove this by turning off the view that applies the settings to the viewfinder. As for DSLRs, if you try that with many DSLR lenses with an Aperture greater than F/5.6 it will do the same thing. The Z6 III just has a setting that turns that off if you’re using flash.
This video isn’t about being able to see an accurate representation of the exposure (exposure simulation). It’s about how the camera does focus tracking at small apertures in low light. If you turn off exposure simulation on a Nikon, Sony, or Fuji mirrorless camera the aperture will remain wide open like on a DSLR… but ONLY if you are using AF-S (SINGLE SERVO) focus. That’s not what this video is about… here we are specifically speaking about how the Z6III is able to do focus TRACKING in low light at small apertures. Focus tracking means we aren’t using AF-S, we are using AF-C (CONTINUOUS) focus. When using AF-C with exposure simulation turned off Nikon, Sony, and Fuji mirrorless cameras DO NOT remain at a wide aperture like a DSLR, they stop down just as shown here. This is why those of us who are experienced know this issue very well and understand just how big a leap forward the Z6III is in this area. 😉
Great video. I love my Z6 III. I was taking photos of my little niece running around in a park sprinkler, and the camera locked onto her eye, even when she was behind the sprinkler spray. My Z6 II probably would have switched focus to the water spray.
Nikon does it by not stopping the lens down until you take the photo. I'll need to take a look at my Z6III but on my recently sold Z6 it would close the aperture down to about f/5.6 then the blades would not move anymore as you stop down. When you take the photo the aperture would stop down to take the photo.
@@livejames9374 The biggest difference is that despite maintaining f/5.6 an older camera like the Z6II will struggle under these conditions... interestingly enough so does the Z8 and Z9. I feel a follow-up video coming. 😃
With a DSLR you can use your flash - even with firing disabled - AF asist light to nail focus in pitch black light conditions. And unlike walking around with a huge LED light to light everything up, it remains unnoticable for the people you're trying to capture - on a wedding dance floor for example. Resulting in great candid photos. Therefore, DSLR lowlight (with flash AF light) will always be even more reliable than mirrorless. I miss that feature on my Z6III. I don't understand nobody is selling a flash with the same capability, but adapted to mirrorless. Even a laser grid or beam of green light might help. The Z6III is obviously better than my Z6II. But it's not as good than my old D750 & SB-910 combo with AF assist light. The resuslt is, more overshooting to compensate. So more photos to dig through later.
Good and interesting test, thank you! I just tried this 1/60, f/8, ISO64000 with my years old Canon R6 and it tracks the face effortlessly too. The unsuccess of the Sony is somehow logical - it focuses down to -4EV only. Canon R6 to -6.5, Nikon Z6III to -10EV. On the other hand, shooting at that extremely high ISOs while having stopped down to a very dim f/8 makes zero sense. If you want to show the environment, use wider FL for deeper DoF at wide apertures. I always combine UWA f/2.8 zoom with sub f/1.8 primes in the standard to short telephoto range.
Canon's Dual Pixel CMOS AF tech is interesting and works differently than every other manufacturer. While Canon hasn't been too keen on elaborating on many details one thing I know is that Canon's don't exhibit the same aperture change before capture discussed here. One thing is obvious; all the camera manufacturers are working to improve this aspect of mirrorless cameras. I totally agree, the settings used here are are for demonstration purposes a "torture test" of sorts. In real-world shooting I too try to shoot at wider focal lengths to help maximize DOF without having to stop down as far. Notice my settings on the real-world photo at 1:23... 1/80th at F/5.6, ISO 4000, and 21mm. 😃
I don't think the Z cameras actually stop down past 5.6 until the shutter is depressed and the photo is taken. I believe this is a parameter of the Z cameras for just this reason. -PD
Interesting, I will test more. 😃 In my testing other Z cameras struggle just as much or more than the Sony's I compared to in this test (including the Z8 and Z9).
@@JeremySmithPhotography Yeah that is interesting - Nikon may have added additional tech in addition to the 5.6 stop down maximum for this camera - either way Nikon is killing it!
I plan on selling my z6 II next year and buying this camera. I may have another wedding to pay for next year so it depends on a lot of different things. I have the z8 so it's not like I really have to have the z6 III. I just want it. From my understanding, it has a dual gain ISO. From 100 to 800 it prioritizes for dynamic range because the noise isn't really that bad. Nothing that software can't clear up easily. From 800 on up it prioritizes the noise to keep it lower. I think that's because it's not a bsi sensor. Sometimes I shoot milky way photos at ISO 6400 so I do want to see some tests at that range. I'll be watching for some of the RU-vidrs to put out videos testing it out at night. I do like the flip out screen. I have one on my Canon T6s. It comes in handy when you are in a place where you can't stand behind the camera. I've set up right beside a creek where there was a steep drop off of at least 5 feet. There was no place to stand. I just flipped the screen out so I could see it. It works great for when you have to set the camera down low or in the corner of a room. I wish it had a screen like Sony has that works both ways. Combine the one from the z8 with the one on the z6 III. Best of both. But they're trying to keep the price down.
This is going to be a game changer for events with flash on low light. Can you replicate these tests with a flash? Would it make any difference from what you showed here? This is awesome finding so far and for my work it will be an awesome advantage
The Z6 is quite a step down compared to the Sony A1/A9III benchmarks I used in this test and the Z6III is better still. Long story short you will see a HUGE difference!
The key here is to pay close attention to the exposure settings used, keep in mind what you are seeing during the test is a screen recording from the camera. At 5:04 I show what kind of exposure you would get under "more favorable" (brighter) lighting conditions. At 5:36 that darker result is not because of an exposure change. Notice that I did not change camera settings; we stay at ISO 800, F/4, 1/60th. When I say "first of all lets make it properly dark in here" I turn off the main light to simulate extreme low-light conditions. This is to illustrate just how dark the subject became relative to where we started. Again; we are still at the same settings and we are 3+ stops underexposed. While things are still 3+ stops underexposed I make things even worse by stopping down to F/8 (since how the camera focuses when stopped down is the topic of this video). To compensate for the change in aperture AND the ambient light being reduced the ISO is raised to 64,000. Under the test conditions 1/60th and F/8 at ISO 64,000 ISO would be the same exposure as 1/60th and F/2.8 at ISO 8,000, or 1/60th and F/2 at ISO 4,000. If translated to settings I would actually use during an event we arrive at 1/250th and F/1.4 at ISO 8,000. Put simply, despite the scene appearing bright for the sake of this video presentation it was properly dark. 😃
@@JeremySmithPhotography Thank you. I am a beginner enthusiast photographer and just learning. I appreciate your time to educate me. I have a Z6ii and still learning how to use it. Do you think I should upgrade to Z6iii if money is not an issue, or something else?
That was my first thought too, to my surprise it isn't simulating! Note my title at 2:39; I will continue to investigate... I want to know how Nikon did it. I am impressed! 😃
Hello, from ur experience, I wanted to ask u about bokeh comparison in sigma 85mm f1.4 lens on both apsc and full frame, which camera will result in more bokeh? I know that full frame is better in bokeh but considering the compression we get from the crop factor on apsc in the 85mm distance will that result in more bokeh than using it in full frame body?
Hello! This is a very good question and it's something I actually plan to make a more detailed video about in the future... while bokeh specifically refers to the look of the out of focus parts of an image I assume you are thinking of getting a more blurred background (shallower depth of field). Depth of field is affected by three things; aperture, focal length, and subject distance. A wider aperture, longer focal length, or closer subject distance all result in shallower DOF. The reason we see shallower DOF on full-frame is because at a given subject distance we are able to use a longer focal length to attain the same framing. If we use a longer focal length lens on an APS-C camera we have to back up from our subject to keep the frame the same which in turn creates deeper DOF (less blurred background)... remember further subject distance means deeper DOF. As far as "compression" is concerned; you are right, you will see more of this effect with the 85mm lens on an APS-C camera. "Compression" as it's often called is really due to a change in perspective, anytime the photographer is further from the subject it will create the illusion that the background is closer to the subject or more "compressed". Keep in mind though this does not make DOF shallower... Short answer: If you back up from the subject to maintain the same framing on the APS-C cam the background will appear closer to the subject than it would on FF but won't be as blurred. This is of course assuming that you are shooting at the same aperture on both cameras. 😃 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7cjAj2ckMVM.html
I will be shooting a macro lens for a macro subject, and my lens focus limiter has only two positions, FULL and LIMIT, without any distances (Tokina ATX-i f2.8 100mm macro FF) - and now I'm a little confused (it's ME not you) - should the switch be on FULL or LIMIT? Many thanks from your new subscriber!
Thanks for the subscription! The limit switch on that lens works a bit differently, if memory serves correct when you switch it to limit it will hold the focus in the range where you currently have the lens focused. For example if you are focused between Infinity and 0.38m and go to limit it will stay in that range... if you are focused between 0.36 and 0.3m and select limit it will hold focus in that range.
Hi there, great video, but I didn’t hear the new option “Var. Shutter” in the same menu where “Anti-Flicker Shoot” is. This works against banding in still and movie modes, as well as in “Shutter Priority” and “Manual Mode”. Moreover it is stated Variable shutter mode works better than old Anti-flicker mode. Could you please check on that, as your video sounds deceiving in the Banding matter! :)
I might post a separate video about this in the future... first of all the variable shutter option isn't new, it's been around since the A9II. The only difference is that the A7RV can automatically set the variable shutter speed based on the frequency of the light source. On older camera models like the A9II this had to be dialed in manually. Variable shutter speed is used for higher frequency light sources such as LED's whereas the anti-flicker shoot is used for lower frequency light sources such as fluorescence. Variable shutter speed setting or not you will get banding in silent mode with the A7RV when shooting at higher shutter speeds due to the slower readout speed of the sensor.
35mm is my favorite focal length so I spent the extra money to get the GM. I have the Sigma 50mm f1.4 DG DN and it is a stellar optic, it is also really close the gm performance especially since the Sigma 50mm has linear motors.
