You saved me a trip to the local locksmith. This is the kind of video that we value, no BS, straight to the point and solutions that are practical and work. Thank you! ... 5 Stars
very good , most informative, I like the way that you take your time & measure without rushing it. You are correct to use plenty of tape & as you state, it's cheap. Cut incorrectly & a new worktop required. Tape is a lot cheaper than worktop. well done. 👍👏👋
Try lacquer thinner instead of acetone. Same shelf in the solvents section of any hardware store. Same price if not a little less expensive. Lacquer Thinner has a profound “melting “ effect on ANY dried in paint much much faster than acetone. For those real stubborn tips fill a empty “windex brand “ spray bottle with lacquer thinner, which defies conventional wisdom I know I know but windex bottles are apparently very chemical resistant because I use them specifically for this and they withstand the Lacquer Thinner EVERY TIME. Stick the nozzle of the windex bottle as close as you can to either oriifice on the clogged tip and squeeze away. It will aid you greatly in your quest for unclogging the dried in spray tip
Another reason I prefer metric. But that’s not why I’m here. My sink is a standard 22”x33” double compartment kitchen sink. However, to make the inside lines, where they need to be, means that I don’t have enough clearance for the sink without cutting into the sink base cabinet, without removing the installed backsplash. I’m looking for solutions to this. Obviously, getting a different sink or deeper sink base cabinet would be preferable, however both the sink and countertop were free. I can’t afford to buy new ones. I’m considering inserting 1/2” or 3/4” boards on top of the sink base, to allow me the space to avoid cutting into the sink base cabinet frame. If anyone has another idea, I’d sure appreciate it.
That size sink should fit in a standard 36” base cabinet. Might be a tight squeeze but should fit without cutting into front of cabinet or removing backsplash
