Honestly think that's one of the biggest failures I've ever seen .loose tip can't use it ! Go to just pick it up to use !gotta change tip!shit I also have to use a tool to change tip! Besides the fact there's no way you won't shear tips off!!!!!! No matter how you look at it!!!!! TIME IS MONEY🤑💵💰!!!!!!!! and buying this would be a waste of both !!! wonder if they knew the WHEEL was round !!HMMM!!!¡
Am looking to get the best 1/2in. Wireless impact and from torque testing channels and reviews it seems snap-on still has top spot. There is the one inch one-handed ingersoll that puts out more power but I want 1/2in. Meaning I'd have to use an adapter which would lose torque, possibly making it the same as a snap-on 1/2in. If it is heavier and wider and the same torque than a snap-on 1/2in it might not be worth it. For not much more I could get the snap-on 3/4 and adapt that and maybe have a big more torque than a snap-on 1/2in. Still a good product just not #1 it seems. A video testing the snap-on 1/2 and 3/4 wireless impacts(with an adapter to 1/2in on the 3/4in) VS the ingersoll one inch one-handed wireless impact *with the same brand adapter ftom 1in to 1/2in) might put you on top of the one-handed 1/2inch wireless impact game.
Agreed. I’ve had mine for 4 years now and I love it but the rubber around the light is beat to hell. I love the 3/8 stubby. It’ll take off lug nuts. Refuse to buy another cordless tool brand
@@theLovatoFam probably will have less mass punching at the socket with smaller anvil but that's about it. Don't think the tool itself will lose torque it outputs the same amount always.
I need to get Werner Enterprises to buy these for our maintenance shops and tell our techs to actually torque the damn nuts instead of mashing on them with the impact for 5 entire seconds
I’m super skeptical. I’ve been reading tests done that the 119 is still a better value for the tool 🤔 I haven’t been able to put my hands on the 135 yet however. I’m still saving up for at LEAST the 119.
Im watching for the vein orientation. I have a 232b Im rebuilding. I swear it looks like 1 went 1 way the other was different from the 2 I watched go in. Does the bevel go up and step facing down or vice-versa? Can anyone help?
Hello. How much lube/grease to add into the gun through a zirk fitting? Is there such a thing as adding too much grease? Is too much bad for gun or it doesn’t matter? What can happen? Thank you
I fired guys like Mike because he failed to use a torque wrench. Many lazy & sloppy claimed professional mechanics don't use torque wrenches when no one around.
FOr anybody who is curious, the three tools that encompass this lineup are the 31,11, 31,31, and 3151. The only real upgrade/representation of a gen 2 version of the Tool is going to be the 3111. It is a true upgrade for the previous, W 5110 which, was Ingersoll Rands impact driver introduced in the early 2010s. It has the quarter inch hex, brushed motor, electronic brake, and can run off of the compact batteries as well as the extended high capacity battery packs. It also had an LED in front of the trigger. it was built off of the original Mid torque W 51, 50, and 5130 which were the original Mid twerk compact impact wrenches. As the 5110 came out after it had a slight upgrade with the LED light. The original 51,50 and 5130 did not have the LED light. In all honesty, my W 5110 is an overkill kind of tool. It has gotten to the point that I leave it in my tool cart because I have stripped out so many heads I’ve lost count. I barely use the tool anymore because of that habit. When I need to drive and screws I don’t even look at that tool anymore and instead reach for my IQ 12 D 1110 which is the 12 V compact screwdriver. If I need a little bit more torque I will reach for my 12 V W 1110 which is the quarter inch hex impact driver. Lot less torque a lot more control which means no more stripped out heads.
This video is why I bought my 231C. I can not find a good video on the Air Ratchet Wrench 1077XPA. In the "Installation and Lubrication" section of the "Air Ratchet Wrench 107XPA and 1077XPA Product Information" sheet, on page 3, referring to the diagram on page 2, it says: powertools.ingersollrand.com/content/published/api/v1.1/assets/CONTA45DD185C9054112BD8EEC0D0DFBA214/native/80177587ed4d.pdf?channelToken=057b573085b4487ca0ab02fcc3a3a01d 10. Grease - Inject between ratchet housing and yoke to lubricate drive bushing. 11. Grease - Disassemble ratchet head and lubricate components. 12. Grease - Disassemble gearing and lubricate components. powertools.ingersollrand.com/content/published/api/v1.1/assets/CONT5C44FDD138D64B528A2D3E6CBE1FAB28/native/80177595ed3c.pdf?channelToken=057b573085b4487ca0ab02fcc3a3a01d I'm guessing, and I'm only guessing, that the number 46 snap ring pictured on the first page of the "107XPA and 1077XPA Air Ratchet Wrench - Exploded View" diagram needs to come out, and then hopefully the rest of the components will fall out and not need to be forced out with a hammer, in order to grease the ratchet's head. Now shaft number 33 somehow needs to come out as well, but it needs to be spun at the perfect angle in order for 34 and 35 to come out, or 33 will get caught up on number 30 and I'm not sure how to get shaft 33 spun to the optimal angle to be able to get it out without disassembling nut 29, unless it can't be done without taking nut 29 off. Perhaps you can see where it would be really nice if you would make a video showing how to properly disassemble and grease this unit. You did a wonderful job on this 231C video. This video is why I bought my 231C and why each of my children received a 231C as a Christmas present. Please help clear up the fog for those of us who just want to make sure we are properly maintaining our Ingersol Rand pneumatic tools so they last for years to come and we can celebrate the immense build quality and reliability of these tools for many years to come.
