Nice work Mate!! I've got a 64 & a 72 Roadster both need the floor pans replaced. I've seen several other videos but yours shows me not only what to do but HOW to do it. Thank You!!!
Thank you kind sir, it’s always nice when you find that your work has helped others, progress has been slow over here with the weather and other things keeping me busy, hope to get back to it soon, good luck with your rebuild. Regards, Steve.
It’s nice to know I’m helping people, good luck with your restoration, I’m about seven years into mine and the way I work it’ll be another seven! But it’s a hobby and gives me something to do when I’ve got nothing to do 🤨
I did the exact same operation on my evoque from 18 today... It dosent feel right to weld on a car from 2018, Realy poor quality 🙄 Dont know if the environment here in Sweden makes it worse, but obviously more people have the same issue.... 🙄🤦
I’ve never had a new car and don’t expect used cars to be without faults so I’ve repaired faults all my driving life, it’s part of the game so live with it and enjoy the learning process and if you can pass on what you’ve learned, good luck Steve…….
If you read the comments on this post you see I’ve addressed this problem before, so you’ve got three choices, buy another radio, buy a replacement screen or live with it? There is of course another option get another car, which I have done, see my videos on the Evoque.
Yes! I have a maxim I believe in ( if it works don’t fix it ) and if it goes in the future I’ll fix it then, if you can weld get a MIG welder and if you can’t weld buy one and and learn, MIG welding is the easiest and will save you thousands over the years ( I’m sure my cat could mig weld if I bothered to teach him) or take it to an exhaust garage and tell them exactly what you want them to do, someone on the internet said Land Rover wanted £2500 to replace the whole DPF box, good luck.
If yours has the same problem then I imagine that any competent garage or exhaust shop could tackle the job for a fraction of LR prices and they will have a car lift, thanks anyway, Steve.
@@steviecuz2396 cheers for that, getting the shield bashed back into shape, then getting welded back on, and two large jubilee clips so it doesnt fall off again!!!
It won’t fit in my sandblasting box and this way cost nothing, plus I think it would be difficult to get inside with a blaster, turned out ok in the end?
@@steviecuz2396 ok I was just wondering if buying one of those portable ones would be worth it. But then I would have to get a hood and a respirator or something.
@@jerryp2433 I made my own small parts sand blaster which keeps all the silica dust ( which is highly toxic, this is why they’ve stopped using it in shot blasting and use grit instead ) inside the box, there are lots of RU-vid videos how to make one and doesn’t cost the earth.
I am are redoing the front suspension on my 72 MGB and presently contemplating the right approach for the front crossmember. Thank you for taking the time to post this video. it seems like the toughest part was the preparation and painting of the inside of the crossmember. Are there any details you can share on the wire wheels and brush (ie coarseness) as well as total prep time and total paint time? Love the home made sandblaster!
Thanks Maggie, I don’t really keep a check on the job times, just do a bit when I feel in the mood for getting my hands dirty, the wire wheel is a 100mm medium one flexible enough to pop through the awkward opening at the entrance of the crossmember welded onto a steel curtain rod about 10mm diameter 50cm long, the bent brush was ideal for painting the inside just fiddly but it’s done now, I do the videos partly to help others and to help me remember how it all goes back together and as a record for if and when I sell the MGB, good luck with yours, more doing and less contemplating?
Hi Phil, I’ve not got that far yet but nearly, I’ve seen sets of what’s called sway bar poly bushes and there are drop link bushes in the kit on Amazon, there are two sizes of anti roll bar so pick the one you want, I haven’t looked on moss Europe’s website but I’m sure they’ll have something to suit.
I have the same problem on my E90 330Xi. In the summer the display fades on a hot sunny day. Should I just grab another radio from another car, or replace the display?
A second hand radio might have the same problem only to be discovered when the car is warm? A new screen is the obvious answer and fitting it is a simple job for a competent D.I.Y.er but with the chip crisis in china they are expensive.
Not sure which bit you mean? In further videos I’ve renewed the upright edge but the underside edge seems ok on mine, I’ll have a better look when I take the heater box out, it’s a hidden area and I’m sure it holds many surprises,
Unfortunately not, I got a bag of ice and the screen came back to life but I think it’s too far gone, I’m going to have to bite the bullet and buy a screen, they look easy enough to fit but since the Chinese chip shortage the price has gone crazy, it might be easier to get a second hand radio but will it have the same problem?…
@@steviecuz2396 have you tried taking the screen off and putting it in the freezer for a few days? Also, you can heatsink it by adding a thin copper plate between the screen to take the heat off.
@@steviecuz2396 I have same issue but my lcd fading is worse than your one. I've bought a second older cd73 2005. I will be transferring the screen over and will try to fix the problematic screen. The screen is not soldered on, it's actually two ribbons. U just need to disconnect that but it's isn't the connection that is the problem. It's just the quality of the liquid or some sort of mechanism in the lcd that moves the liquid around. I'll try putting it in the freezer lol
I’ve come across a further problem, with drilling the holes in the vent the hot air in the winter is now forested onto the radio so it blanks out even on cold days! Honestly you couldn’t write it!
I was planning to plug it with polyurethane sealer, if I get access to remove it when the wing is fitted to re-Waxoyl the sill again in a year or two, we’ll see later.
Do you have to use self tapping screws to hold in place? Can't you just use some weight plates or something? I'm not sure if I want to create a hole that I have to plug weld.
They are Tex screws that have a hexagon head and fit into a magnetic driver (see episode 12) and are very easy to fit and remove, yes they do leave a small hole but you are there with your welder so it’s no biggie to fill a few more holes and for me it was very important to close all the gaps to enable easier welding of the full underside, you can’t really rely on weights to do this efficiently. Good luck!
That was such a fun job when I did it. Everything came apart pretty easy and no need for a spring compressor. A lot easier than the mid engine mount, that sucked.
Had to laugh, my 67 Gt is in exactly the same state-even down to the dented underside panel below the radiator. I've been watching your channel and it's helped me no end. Floor pans, cills etc. I think mine is even the same colour!
Glad to hear I’ve been of assistance, lots of cleaning, I have a small shot blast handheld gun so I’ll try it on the shocks and callipers, maybe the crossmember, getting colder here in Liverpool but plodding on.
I was just watching your brake calliper video, that Waxoyl is pretty thick so I think it will push most liquids through it, I think the nozzle is a bit blocked I’ll look at it, I have still the crossmember to do and then on to the brakes.
@Stevie Cuz cool let me know if you can it may be something I will get a hold of and throw some transmission fluid in it. For the caliper video if you rebuild them the seals have different sides, so watch how the old ones come out. Not sure if I mentioned it in that video.
Great videos. Where did you learn your skills? Impressed with your rebuild of the leaf spring mount in a previous video. This car was Swiss cheese when you started!
Thanks Simon, I’m an (old fashioned) time served fabricator/welder and have always had a curiosity of how things work and will attempt to repair anything, messed a lot of stuff up but learned along the way, always fixed my own cars, even sprayed a few with varying results, every days a school day!
@@steviecuz2396 I'm taking the same approach. Need to see what my engine and gearbox are like one it's on the road. I'm convinced my overdrive won't work! I really fancy an mx5 gearbox but that makes me think I should just fit an Mazda engine as well.
@@stuwhite2337 Ford Sierra 5 speed boxes were popular and cheap at one time. Better ratios too. I've sorted out the electrics on mine whilst it was out on the floor, open circuit 3rd/top lockout switch which I've changed. All else looks ok. Time will tell. Keep up the good work Stevie, its looking good, a credit to you. Good luck.
Nice progress Stevie! It seems (excuse the pun) to be coming together quite nicely. Have you chosen a pint color when all is done or keeping the original? Getting cold up in Canada here so my little G is parked and covered although have boot carpet coming and a few other smallish projects. Peace and health to you and yours
I’m of a mind to keep it the same colour as the original paint, mineral blue, I used to think it was a bit drab but I’ve seen some nice examples and it saves the paperwork for changing the colour at the DVLA Swansea (Wales) where all of GB vehicle records are kept, I’m in a good place at the moment and am ploughing through the work, hope to get the front crossmember refurbished and back on the car before it gets too cold here, hope you and yours are keeping well, Steve…