I'm from Wales in the UK and love tinkering with all things mechanical and electrical. Making some videos to share what I've been doing, hope you enjoy and find them helpful! My day (or night) job is live event production and design but the workshop is where I can relax without all those pressures. My current project is a Royal Enfield Meteor 350 Bobber / Scrambler / Zombie Squasher
Okay so here goes.. Build the bullet seat over the low ride seat and remove the back end of the bullet seat. Kind of detachable like the Supermeteor rear seat with the key 😂 Now theres a challenge
Great video as always Glyn. I may be a bit biased because I have a Bullet, but I prefer the look of the Bullet seat on Rusty. I think it fits in with the aesthetic quite well.
Wow ..what a lovely day... Beautiful scenery... views background 😍... Nice RE Classic 👌 Iam first time seeing that classic colour is it coustomed colour 👍 Single seat is the best choice 👍 White wall Tyre super vintage look❤ Iam the proud owner of the Royal Enfield Classic 500cc Desert Storm ✌️❤ from Fortkochi (India) Nice video 👍❤️
Evening Glyn from Quiberon 😊 on holiday, must admit it does look comfy, and looks “how can I say” complete on the bike poss as it fills that gap left by the original in the rain will the tank and mudguards continue to rust or am I an idiot 😳the oe seat cover looked pretty good on the original seat, i do find the original very comfortable though, and the original shows off your mods more 🤣 ….. Pete🇫🇷
Well I have just removed the upgraded Classic touring seats on my Halcyon Green Classic 350 after watching your last video and purchased the identical Bullet touring seat. After fitting the first ride was a revelation now a total joy to ride like sitting on a sofa, but even better at a stop your feet are closer to the ground due to the narrower front and sloping sides of the seat compares to the straight sides of the Classic touring seat ! So I now have a Classic/Bullet, thanks Glyn for the inspiration. On a side note I will not be going back to the Classic touring seats, but then I have never removed the rear seat in two and a half years that I have owned my Classic 😊
That sounds ace Peter. Maybe Bullet style is the real magic and I saw it looks good with the green in your pictures on the UK Facebook group 👍 Enjoy your comfy riding 💪
Yay!! speeded up ratcheting is my new favourite. I'm sure you could figure out a way of skilfully removing/hacking off the pillion section of the Bullet seat🤣👍
I love the bike with the Bullet seat. It is most certainly comfortable and You created a very personal Bullet / Classic machine. I changed my saddle last year for the touring seats on the 350 ( much more comfortable than the genuine ones in my opinion) and if I'd have known what I know now - because of You, Glyn - I would have gone for the Bullet touring seat.Perfect and it makes the bike look gorgeous and grown up. Form follows function.
I've got one of those on my Meteor (playlist about that bike in other videos) and that's a step up from the Classic seat again - thicker and a little bigger - but still nothing like the Bullet seats👍
@@franckturpin210 I had the touring seats on my Classic but can tell you having now also fitted the Bullet touring seat on my Classic, the comfort and for me looks are on a whole other level. As they say though looks are subjective but the comfort you can feel instantly, I have had my bike for two and a half years and the touring seats for the last 18 months. I am more than grateful to Glyn making me realise the Bullet seat was a strait swap for the Classic seats.
I think the standard seat looks better. Imo, But the bullet seat looks more comfortable. So I would keep both and use both for whatever kind of ride your doing at the time. Takes minutes to swap over. If I was going camping or touring the bullet seat makes sense. If I was going to work or a bimble I put the standard seat on. 😉
For me, on looks alone, the single seat wins hands down. Incidentally, how do you wash your bike with the rust effect paint applied? Doesn't it all wash off? And, the finnish looks very dry and dusty, doesn't it come off onto your clothes etc? Stunning looking machine by the way.😊
@GlynOC I think it blends in nicely with the rest of the bikes black stuff. Balancing the over all look out. Probably a more practical colour too. So go for light brown 😆
@@davidrawlings3460 They may or may not be on the way 🐇They're from Motea who are European and send when they feel like it so we'll to wait and see. Oh and it's now winter apparently so whoopee
A newbie question :I hope there will be two valves in the top inlet and outlet but in the video I could see you have checked clearance for only one valve? is that fine ?
I did both but the editing was a bit awkward and I know what you mean, I should have said that it was the other valve as they look the same pretty much! Well spotted 👍
Black for me. Problem is…. You know what they say “once you go black…. Then you just have some black bags and that’s fine”, something like that anyway.
I know what you mean, I wouldn't usually have thought of black but they look quite demure (which is fashionable at the moment apparently) and with a bit of wax on the canvas they might look even better, or not 🤪
I rebuilt the link rod using 2 M6 rose joints, a length of M6 threaded rod cut to length (~65mm), 2 nuts to lock the rose joints to the threaded rod, and 2 stainless steel lock nuts+washers for fixing the link rod. All for about 11 euros. The rose joint just about clears the foot rest mount as it sits behind the lever so that the rod does not need to be offset. It's already a big improvement and there is a lot less free play! Next I'm going to tackle the bushing.
@@GlynOC My maths is no better but I would guess it would exert a torque equal to the mass of the pole times half its length, assuming it's the same diameter along its whole length. I like your channel btw.
@@GlynOC I just weighed a steel rod then perched one end of it on the scales and the other end on a block at the same height as the scales. The scales read almost exactly half, so it seems my guess was about right. Thanks for motivating me to test the equation!
Good stuff Glyn, only thing is, when you push a fork leg up through the "mount" at the top hole, is there a click or something for it to say it has reached the desired height? or do you guess the amount it sticks above the hole say? or even to get the hole top level with the stay? (not sure how to put it?) simply how far up does the fork go? does it need to stop at an exact position? (are you going to replace the grease that was on the shiny bit of the fork?)
Hello again! No, there's no positive location for it, you just make sure they're flush with the top of the yoke. On the Interceptor they poke through about an inch so would probably need a measuring tape for that to make sure they're correct. The Classic can only go in until it hits the yoke so no ambiguity there. I sprayed some oil up inside before they were covered, but I ought to check in case there's anything nasty going on👍
Great video. Thinking about throwing some 14" apes on mine. I will have to watch your other videos. Hopefully there is one on your rear fender assembly. Cheers. Edit: about how much play you have with the clutch and brake cables? Like how much extra length?
Hello! Yes, there is certainly one on the fender with measurements if you want to copy it too. The bars I put on are a little lower but wider so the slack seemed to be the same so that all worked out. If you're in the UK I might have some cables for apes available soon. Thanks for watching👍
Good job on the polishing! What I noticed when polishing my sprocket cover is the after 1200grid sanding, the paste (+polysteher aquarium filter fleece which does not dry out the paste oil) grinds away the 1200grid very well. Wax and felt disc makes it shine and smooth but leaves mechanical micro scratches and commandant7 +old cotton shirt makes mirror but the shirt makes little scratches as well. I have NTX on order but I fear this is a downgrade.spend about 8hrs on this cover testing what is worth living... It is very hard to get this casings to a real mirror shine and altough it is a mirror finish it will not get to a chromed state scratch free for now... I have not found how to get there yet. very fingerprint sensitive! However, to maintain the mirror finish I would like might be too labour intensive and I am reconsidering to have them chromed and then ceramic coating.
I think you're right, there's a ceiling to how smooth and bright you can get this alloy although it does get very shiny doesn't it. I can't get rid of the tiny micro scratches either. Once you stand back it's all nice though👍
@@GlynOC Just got me the NTX from Halfords along with their Protecton polishing cloth. This is a strong felt like cloth hard to tear but easy on the scissors. It is a day and night difference the microscratches are gone. I do see the alu moulding structure now and a micro orange skin. This is the mirror finish one can achieve I guess but you have to take into account aluminium will have a darker shine and not as clear as chrome. But this surface seems ready for chroming if desired and it's a once in a life time polishing job by then... Not sure how to deal with my engine parts tough, mine has 1200km on it now not sure if I should take her apart for polishing or chroming and I am only using a small bike lift which could be unconvenient. Protecton polishing cloth works quite well for me! Regards, Erik
I popped in Halfords today and they've got loads of cloths and wasn't sure which one you got! What colour is it? I haven't touched mine since I finished it and they need a going over to remove some spots and water marks so better do that before it gets difficult and I lose heart👍
