Are you mounting the shocks on the rig upside down to help minimize oil leakage over time. I’m assuming even with the 4-hole plunger installed the 80 weight oil rebounds in a sufficient amount of time?
Nice job. I just ordered the Gladiator, hasnt arrived yet but already looking at body options. Since that bed is so shallow I thought about possibly gluing some sticks or something to it to give the illusion of a full bed. Otherwise I am thinking about trying the ProLine Ratrod body as its for an e-revo but its the same wheelbase.
Look at buying some of these for my first 1/0 lcg rig. I run a set up very similar on my scx lcg build. And that things a beast lol. Finally getting a 1/10 belly dragger and I can’t wait 😂😂😂😂 and that’s for the info man and your setup is so me I love slow crawling.
Thanks for the kind words! I love getting down and seeing how every little detail moves on a slow crawl. Setup is a major part but the technique makes it an even more satisfying hobby.
Why are you taking the C clip off? You can remove the end link and remove the spring from the other end. The only reason to remove the clip would be to change the damper piston.
Same would go for the lower shocke end, and you risk marring the piston shaft if they are particularly obstinate. That's just how I prefer to do it, doesn't mean other ways are wrong.
This particular one at the time weighed about 10lbs, but this setup has proven to work really well with my heavier rig, that may be pushing 15lbs fully loaded
I recently got a trx4 sport with the same shocks. They are great but I need more height(they droop about or just over halfway). Can I get the springs only somewhere?
Old but gold video 👍🙂 Why did you choose 90 mm and not 100 mm, now you run with a droop setup? Just asking as I'm doing some research for what to buy for my SCX10 3 Gladiator 🙂
@@kenneth_jensen sorry I was rushing to work. I should have elaborated better. So while ride height is movable using various methods such as shock keys and what not in stock placement the 90s seem to be able to sit lower than the 100s which is my preference to keep the COG low. However, I also prefer 90s because of the amount of travel on 100s is just a little longer than what I am shooting for. Again you could tweak 100s to operate much like 90s depending upon spring setup. I usually shoot for the axles to stay as close to the chassis as I can under normal ride circumstances to keep tip over on side hill and steep ascension to a minimum.
@@rctactical5600 that is a good strategy and as I read it, we drive similar. So I have decided to go with the 90mm dual stage Desert Lizard 👍🙂 Thank you so much for your feedback 🙂
I have not but one of the other guys I run do. The Km3s have more surface area for grip on smooth surfaces but the creeper hook the edges of rocks better
I set mine up just like this after watching the video. I have 90mm on a really light gspeed build and 100mm on a heavy trx4 with Rock Pirates shock towers. Both trucks work great! Thanks for the tips!
@@rctactical5600 I have idk how many sets I love them!!! I want try set drav Tech shocks but like 30-40$ more to get a set!!! Dessert lizard needs purple shock bodies hahha and few more colors
I wad actually going to do a video of me stripping the paint and painting them another color, for custom colors. I am a big fan of lizards, but I have heard really good stuff about the Dravtechs as well.
You did the best you could on what Proline completely obliterated on the front with the ridiculous Bumper on this body!! This is the reason I won't buy it for my Gladiator, at the minimum Proline should of designed a large chrome bumper something anything to complete the front!! It looks hideous, you either cut the lexan where they suggest and then your left with no front end ,looks like half the trucks gone or you leave the plastic that's suppose to be removed and try and paint it like you did . You did very good for what it is but Proline should be ashamed and embarrassed not to mention the entire bodies to skinny!! I'm done ,sorry for ranting....
I agree they could have done more with the front end. It sucks they wanted you to cut so much off and everything below it is blank, like you said work with what you can. Thanks for the great comment! Appreciate it!
Hi.. i am currently build the desert lizard shock almost similar setup as yours but with 30wt oil. It seems like it become too stiff where it keeps the axle suck up and did not play. So on uneven surface the tyre will hung up. Is it because i did not bleed it correctly?
It may be because the spring below the plunger is too long or stiff. Usually if not bled correctly the shock with push the rod out, opposite to the situation you are describing. Also make sure there is nothing binding along the movement of the shock, such as when the axle shifts from side to side because of compression of the panhard bar. Let me know once you dig into it if I can help in more detail.
Like all body's, either post, magnets ,velcro whatever you decide !! There all the same, doesn't matter the body its a formed piece of plastic and it's up to you to find the best way to mount it, not real hard to do!!
@@brad2157 hidden body post doesn't matter your Gladiator like mine and everyone else's, also has body mount brackets on the truck, you simply have to buy the post and use the brackets that came on the truck, or use magnets or use velcro or any number of ways to mount them !! aftermarket bodies don't come with instructions on how to mount to every rc truck ever made ,there's litterally Hundreds of of crawlers on the market that wld be impossible ,use your imagination it's not very hard ,and you'll feel better about yourself in the end...💯👍🏼
We left those mounting bracket in place so the bodies can be interchangeable. Then used a bolt to go through the upper post mounts with magnets. Worked pretty well but you still can Lose the body if you crash too hard of course!
On voit presque rien..quand tu montre de petit détail de petite chose..rapproche ta vue..on a pas besoin voir toute ta table..merci comme même pour ton aide
There are two potentials this could have, it could add that little bit more weight down low, and people often do this to keep rhe shock from leaking. I have never had one of these shocks leak however. Another thing to consider if the clearance down below where the shock meets the axle, an upside down shock on the front of some trucks could potentially limit steering angle
