Natasha Stoppel is a traveling artist exploring the world one drawing at a time. After leaving her corporate job in 2014 she launched Artist Explores the World, a blog and RU-vid channel designed to feature art and travel. Since then she has trail-blazed a creative path into bullet journaling, videography, jewelry making and pyrography. When not working on her new tiny home, she’s focused on turning her experiences into creative works and seeks to inspire others to explore their artistic soul and pursue creative journeys.
I like your videos yes it gives me an idea of what we have at Dollar tree. And I like it that you give us what's good quality and what's not I think that's really cool that you do that
Finding this 6 years later. So many cute designs! I'd love to see all the seasons. I've recently started organizing my journal by the quarter. For each quarter so far, I've had a title page that is seasonal & I have things like book & movie recommendations, goals, favorite seasonal dishes, etc. that I don't need on the daily. I try to carry the general style & color scheme through the months in that quarter - while still doing something unique for each month. Anyway, loved this - thanks for sharing!
I like to draw with ink a lot and laser cutting was just an instrument for tools and usual "art" pieces. THIS is another level, which stunned me a lot. I will give it a try, thanks a lot for Your inspirations and keep up Your work!
Nice to see some dimensional art. I have been experimenting with this layering / shadowbox art for a little while now. It is so much nicer than the generic cookie cutter cutsie stuff we see so much of. Keep up the good work....👌
Just received the Colotit “Patterns” and very pleased. Both my Prismacolor & FC Polychromos color pencils work good. Also tried Neocolor ii wax pastels, theyre ok on this, and light watercolor- i used the Faber Castell Albrecht Durer Watercolor Markers.
Some people are from your country like myself I live in Australia and it’s interesting to see what kind of things you have over there and what you’ll do with them. Also there are a lot of people with disabilities or other problems that are unable to leave the house and it’s nice for them to go with someone that they’ve been watching for awhile that feels like a friend taking them out.
oh my gosh, the bus got completed? Life updates? GIRL. Oh my gosh! I was wondering what was going on since I hadn't seen anything from you for a while.
yeahhhhh. A LOT has happened! BUT I've been living in the bus for almost a year and a half now, it's not fully done to the level I want it to be which is why I never post any photos of it. But I'm living in GA for now, but trying to take small trips when I can. 😊
You kept talking about your Twitch channel… but I couldn’t find the link here on YT for it?!! 🤗 Linkieeeee pleasssse! 🤗 I mean, now I watch more, it’s probably under ArtistExplores…. 😝
You probably know this by know, but that cheaper Winsor and Newton palette is from their Cottman range, which is their student grade line of paints, while the expensive version you bought is from their professional line which is why it's so much more expensive. That being said, the cottman watercolors are actually really good quality for the price and are lightfast which is rare for student grade paints. They are usually the number 1 reccomended watercolors to buy for a beginner to intermediate, so it's still a good reccomendation haha Just figured I'd comment this in case you weren't already aware and for any new viewers so they have accurate information.
Keep it original - when it comes to creating laser-cut fine art, it's important to separate yourself from the generic home decor scene by developing your own designs and avoiding using other people's designs. Think about layers - when creating your piece, think about what layers you will use, how many layers, how thick those layers will be, and how they will fit together. Use negative space to your advantage - consider leaving negative space between layers to create interesting floating shadow effects that interact with the environment. Experiment with different materials - try using different types of wood, acrylic, or even paper to see what kind of effects you can achieve. Test your designs - before committing to a final design, create a test piece to make sure everything fits together correctly and looks the way you want it to. Be patient - laser cutting is a slow process, so be patient and take your time to ensure that everything is cut precisely. Keep your workspace clean - a clean workspace will help ensure that your machine runs smoothly and that your finished pieces look their best. Always be learning - continue to experiment with new techniques and materials, take classes or workshops, and learn from other artists to continue growing as an artist.
Have you considered using a wood sealer on your wood before painting? I use it on my pieces, allowing for a brief window of time to blend my colors. Lovely design.
What brand is your” laser“? I’ve just branched out my “art” to woodburning and came across an article of your “gunpowder “ work. Was curious and looked up your RU-vid video. I like this idea and also interested in “laser” cutting. Love your work!🤗. Where do you purchase this gunpowder? Thank you!
Cuando terminas el proyecto en la ceramica ¿lo tienes hornear para fijarlo? ¿lo tienes que barnizar? son acrílicos al agua y las piezas que se hacen no se pueden lavar. Porfavor espero su respuesta gracias
La taza parece de cerámica y la ha horneado. O igual es porcelana... En otro video he leído que si está esmaltada no se puede pintar, pero esa taza parece que lo está y mira. En cualquier caso hay que dejar secar durante 24h y hornear a unos 150-180º durante 1h para fijar los colores, y luego cuando haya que limpiarlo con cuidado para que dure más tiempo. En el caso de un macetero, una piedra o algo así, imagino que no habrá que hornear... Yo he pintado muchos maceteros y piedras con pinturas acrílicas y lo que he hecho es barnizarlos después. A ver si estreno los rotuladores. Espero haberte ayudado.
Do you find that over time the water color migrates into the wood and it looks faded? That's one of my biggest worries about using wood that is not primed. Also, does the wood warp from the water?
It can fade over time as the wood continues to age, since I'm doing pyrography (which also fades over time) I understand my work will probably out live my life time, and maybe the next, but inevitably will not stand the test of time like a painting on paper or canvas will. There are a large number of factors that effect the fading. The quality of materials used, the type of wood used, the product used to seal the piece, is the piece kept in a dark room or a room with a lot of light? etc. So far I've been painting on wood for 5 years and I seal all my pieces with a lacquer (varnish is actually best but I don't like how it yellows the colors) I have not noticed any fading on my art work EXCEPT when they are left in direct sunlight for long periods of time. My ornaments are not sealed to save on cost and time and those have also not faded either, but the wood does seem to degrade faster on the edges. My wood jewelry however does fade and discolor pretty heavily over MANY wears but this has to do with the wear and tear of jewelry and how often it comes in contact with human body oils. As for warping this REALLY depends on the type of wood and how much water you are using. I've had less issues with warping and more issues with cracking when adding too much water.
I have to laugh because you said you wouldn't recommend using this in an apartment. I'm here to tell ya that A LOT of laser users have them in their apartments.
Hi, Natasha. Great video. I would suggest that you give Titebond 1 a try, as it dries much lighter than Titebond 3. Titebond 3 is intended for applications that are likely to become wet, which I doubt applies to your pieces. I use Titebond 1 for finer woodworking and Titebond 2 or 3 for pieces that are likely to see more heavy use. Cheers.
