Dumb question. I guess like anything do peloquins go bad? I just put one in and played in the dirt and snow this year and had what “felt” like amazing traction. Now I’m wondering.
Hi! Long trem Vanagon owner here-30 years. Very good technique for solving that issue. I can relate-I had the same issue with my 2.5 that I ran in my Westy for 11 years. It had good compression but used a qt every 1k to 1.5k mi. I now believe it is just an issue with that particular engine. Mine was a 2009. Apparently, they all used some oil. I switched to an EG33 (6 cyl, for those that don't know) several years ago, and it uses no oil-amazing!
Great vid. I just put a peloquin in my 2WD Auto 91 vanagon and playing in the snow this year made a huge difference. Also went back country this summer. Went to places I would have normally got stuck. Highly reccomend
From what I've heard the peloquins works best when already in motion. Would you be able to try it in motion (say 4-5mph) on some slippery gravel and have a friend film? Thanks in advance if you do!👍
Not sure why you would want to jack on the engine mount--bad idea to start with. As a 30 year Vanagon owner, and retired master mechanic, you should only jack on the jacking points or the cross member in the back. Or you may get bending or flexing of the frame and body. Van was not designed for that. Just saying.
I don’t think you get the point of the vid. Tom is showing the deflexion of the body panel when jacking under the engine mount. The direction of deflection is the point of interest .
Thanks for the great explanation. My son's 2006 Forester engine (with manual trans) did NOT have the guide installed, so I figured the engine was a replacement that had originally been installed with an automatic. We did install a guide on it, just to be sure. Your video explains the issue perfectly. He never had a problem, but it surely could have been.
Subaru started fitting the cam belt guides in MY98, on manual models only (at least, in European model Subaru's). They changed the design of the oil pump at the same time (for manual and auto models), adding the two bosses that the cam belt guide screws in to. So to fit a cam belt guide to an earlier engine, you'd need to fit the later oil pump. But to fit one to an MT88 or later engine from an auto when being sued in a manual application, you just screw the guide on to the existing pump. Be super careful if taking the crank position sensor out to check for the presence of a cam belt guide. The stainless steel sensors are very probe to corroding the surrounding aluminium, trapping them in the bore. When the screw is removed, the top of the sensor often moves a little bit, encouraging you that it's loose, so just needs prying a little. When the stainless sensor housing is trapped in the casting by corrosion, this movement is not the sensor moving in the casting, but the plastic senser internals moving in the stainless casing. Prying at it, even lightly, can break the top off an otherwise good sensor.
Replaced my timing belt today on a 2012 STI hatch and was wondering what the guides were for. It had them over the crank as well as over the right exhaust cam pulley and left intake cam pulley. I used a thin piece of cardboard to set the gap between belt and guides. Is there a special tool for adjusting the gap?
you have lockers and peloquin ? how is the normal road driving with the peloquin in the front ? I have standard rear locker, and was thinking to put a Peloquin inthe front. Any suggestions ?
I never feel anything from the front Peloquin, no effect on the steering whatsoever. Absolutely "nothing" is felt. I have a front locker and know what steering is becomes when fully locked. I thought that maybe I wouldn't have to lock the rear as often with two Peloquins. But honestly I can't say it makes a $1500 difference. And locking the rear is substantial, as you likely know. It must be limiting the slip a little, but if you want my advice, I say look at your $1500 and think of something else. Peloquin is pretty "open". Absolutely "nothing" is felt.
Thanks mate, I always knew some clever engineer will sort this problem. I run a vw AFN engine on my syncro gearbox and everybody told my the torque will eat the 4th gear up. Now, that is solved! Thanks again
Cooling and cleanliness will increase the capacity of the gearbox, but probably not by a lot. That TDi is going to beat hard on the gearbox. I’d use a DMF for sure. Driving style has a lot to do with it too. The only real solution is bigger gears, shafts, bearings which are not available. This helps some, but you still gotta “go easy”.😊😊
Agree, the carpets are fully synthetic and quite thin, they can be cleaned amazingly well when out of the vehicle. The seat covers also be cleaned and repaired once the hogrings holding them onto the frame are popped off.
I looked at the samba post for information and I’m currently setting up a similar system with the bmw cooler and pump. And now I stumbled upon your video. Confirming my thought on a easy “clean” Setup without extensive modifications on the gearbox. Thanks a lot 🤩
