I recently refilled mine and now have an air pocket somewhere so my heat only works when im driving... How did you avoid air pockets? Mine wasnt even a flush, just a refill after it ran below the low line a bit.
Honestly i just did exactly what i did in this video, nothing else. I’ve only had to do this once, i know you can “burp” the system but maybe you should try a full flush just to get out any air. Or check how to burp the system of any air and see which is easier.
Sorry if I missed it. I’m interested in this kit and was wondering if the kit comes with the shorter hoses or if the stock ones were cut. I did catch the part about using the old clamps.
So the hoses that you will reuse are the ones connected to your recirculating valves or blow off valves. Injen sends you the other hoses that connect to the smaller tube areas that connect up top. Hope this helps!
You over filled the coolant lol on the tank there is a low and full once you get the car how it expands and fills to the top be careful unless it’s hot as you made the video 😅
The coolant level was just fine and has been for years now since filming this. After running the car and letting the fluid run through the system, the level dropped and stays between the low and full sign. Thanks for the concern though.
If y’all don’t want to get those air intakes takeda cai are enclosed I put those on my 2020 gt1 awd stinger with the jb4 n hks spark plugs n gfb bovs ,my next thing is the big mouth scoops
lol preciate it man. I’m not sure what year and what kind of civic you have but the exhaust sounds im sure will mostly just come down to engine type, size and whether it’s NA, Turbo or supercharged. But I was definitely caught off guard how well it sounds for a Kia but that 3.3L V6 twin turbo engine does it justice i guess lol
You don’t need to remove the battery, just disconnect the negative wire during install to cut power. 1. It’s just good practice to do and 2. With Stingers, we’ve found it more beneficial to disconnect the battery for 20-30min in general with each power mod to have the ECU reset it’s learned ignition timing corrections (if any)
Sorry but I don't believe in this cold air material, why, because it goes against the principles of proper engine operation. This system will get all the hot air from the engine, we know that it is cool air that the engine needs. Just good for car sound. For me it is a waste of money.
Lol that’s your belief. They’ve already been tested on Stingers who were testing their track times and intake temps. They definitely begin to lower temps, not alone by any crazy amounts, but they still work. I also have front air inlets in my grill that pull in cooler air directly to my filters and from the outside as i drive while the hot air is forced away. Sorry but i don’t believe in your skepticism based on tested facts. Good for attention. For me, your comment was a waste of time.
@@militarized_stingergt2850 He didn't ask for you to believe him. But he does have right to his opinion. But you have to admit that some cai do not work. Of course depending on the setup and vehicle. At least he watched your video and that should get some gratitude not a laugh. I watched your video and enjoyed it. Maybe watching your video was a waste of his time, but he didn't say that. In my opinion.
@@vblic The video i made has nothing to do with opinions of others. It’s a simple instructional install video i made for other Stinger owners that may need help knowing where to start with their installs. I didn’t make the video for views or likes, only to help others. So if someone comments something irrelevant on my video and i laugh at it, that’s between me and that individual and i have every right to laugh at and disagree with him. I don’t cater to anyone’s feelings even if society makes you think you have to. And an actual cold air intake is always beneficial. It’s the short ram air intakes with the filters placed right next to a hot engine with no heat guard that will hurt performance rather than help it. My system, even though it’s not guarded off, is up against the grill with proper air scoops feeding them outside air flowing in to the filters and blowing away a good amount of engine heat. This setup has been tested and proven to work so yes, i will laugh at him.
Should be, they don’t affect your exhaust or anything like that. Just bringing in more air and cooler air for your turbos. Works even better with front grill air scoops too.
CIA Does absolutely nothing as far as performance, just sounds cool. If you really want performance put a set of velosa tech big mouth snorkels on front end and get A set of KN high flow filters for your stock airbox
You’re right, the “CIA” does nothing for car performance. But plenty of proven tests confirm that a CAI most definitely helps performance. I can attest to it myself. Plenty Stinger owners (as well as other car brand owners) have done before and after testing to find CAI’s work as intended. Yes they are good for noise too but you also need to realize to make the most out of ANY bolt on performance, you need a tune to use all of what it offers. I have JA Air Scoops myself and while they help with directing cooler air straight to my filters, they aren’t adding any horsepower like a CAI will. And if you’re gonna mention getting air scoops, you need to finish by getting a properly vented CF hood, not only for weight reduction but to help push out the hit engine air to further prevent heat soak. Nothing wrong with drop in filters, those are great too, but saying CAI does nothing is completely ignorant my guy.
Will this still work if i just remove the switch after starting the car and put the fuse back in. Will it give me some kind of light after i put the fuse back in.
Both are very different exhausts for different needs. If you want your exhaust a little louder than stock but still pretty quiet then get magnaflow. The loudest will be RES, Borla, Ark and MBRP in that order in my opinion. MBRP and magnaflow wont have the rasp at higher RPMS like the others but you could always add a small resonator if you want to stay loud but get rid of the rasp. Borla is also pretty much a muffler delete but with a gutted muffler. But i love the Borla exhaust still after having it for over 2 years now.
@@Chr1sT0fu Sorry, just saw your comment. Most people have reported that a muffler delete was hard to deal with because it created a lot of drone inside the car. Only remedy is to have pipes welded on to reach near the bumper holes then get some aftermarket exhaust tips to put on to help let the noise and vibration escape out the back instead of bouncing around underneath your car.
@@militarized_stingergt2850 That is exactly what I am trying to fix now. The pipes really need to come out all the way so it doesn't drone underneat the car. I am debating on adding tips as well but first going to extend the tips much more because right now it's barely inside and the drone is really unbearable. Going to get this done this coming next week. I really don't want to add a muffler again unless it's absolutely last resort. I really love the way it sounds without mufflers lol. I had them build an axle back from the resonator (still on, not removing that) and it sounds really deep just so good for barely any $. Just need to reduce the drone a good amount and I am good. I also have K&N cold air intakes and man they really help a lot too. This car totally loves just some bolt ones, wakes up!
I don’t see why not. You’d just have to make sure you have that correct fuse in the switch. If the AWD fuse is a 10amp then you would just plug this in and go. But the AWD fuse is in the engine bay so you’d need a much longer switch to run inside the cabin. Or you can keep this switch and switch it off from under the hood every time you want to turn off AWD.
really nice race but it's good that you always give all this information e.g. stag1 ecu blah blah but never how many horsepower the cars have to even understand that a stock m3 competition already has about 130hp more power than the Stinger and the weight ;- ) just as a side note then it's interesting to look and see that the Stinger is really brutal compared to the bmw
Yeah i don’t know how much hp he has right now with his added mods because he hasn’t been on a dyno yet. But i never focus on HP alone anyways. HP alone won’t win you a race, so much more goes into it. And the people who know these cars can hopefully get a good gauge on the power they have based on the general mods in each car. The white Stinger has less bolt on mods than i do and he’s as fast as i am. So it’s good for people to see what they may or may not need to buy for their car. Sometimes all you need is a good tune and good fuel lol
***EDIT TO THE VIDEO!!!*** Switch needs to be in the OFF position to use the boost for launch control. You’ll know if it’s working if you don’t see the launch control ready notification in the dash. Only keep the switch in the ON position when: -Starting the car and -When normal driving
The guy who makes tgem is Tanner Meade. Look up “Boost Launch Harnesses” on FB. Join it then watch for when he makes a post for you to get in on an order. He’s going to post a drop for 10 available ones to order on the 3rd of July.
My switch was in the correct position. The “I” is the “on” position. When i switch it off, the car won’t start unless i switch it in the position it’s in for the video. Also the brake lights don’t activate with the switch off either. And as you can see in the video, i was still building boost and spinning tires with light throttle.
If you look at my MPH on the bottom left, you’ll see we were both at the same speed. I never dropped to any specific gear, i just kept it in drive and hit the kickdown button at 100% throttle to let the car drop to whatever gear it needed to. I’ve done other races with being in 3rd or 4th gear to start out but i like the kickdown button instead. Although now im going to attempt brake boosting with a new mod i just did in my latest video👌🏽
@@user-gy9ub5nd4g Check everything to make sure you don’t have any air leaks or anything. Try and disconnect your negative battery wire for about 10-20min and re connect it to reset your car and see if it was just a glitch. Did you do anything different with your BOV hoses? Did you cap off the bottom holes in the Injen pipes?
I don’t personally with just the intakes. Other have posted in the forums around 10hp gain. A tune is what will take advantage of it most though over stock. Also if anyone is interested in starting with intakes, i highly recommend some big mouth air scoops to help fees in air as you drive through your grill to the intakes because the oem vents are horrible.
Not at all. You can throw any mod at this car, even without a tune (beside primary downpipes) and it will still run perfect👌🏽 I have high flow cat downpipes/midpipes and i needed to finally get a tune when i bought the downpipes. Still no codes👌🏽
I installed everything myself with one of my buddies. It was super easy. Just unbolt the stock exhaust and bolt the new ones on. Saves you a lot of money in labor fees. And i bought my car in MD but i’ve been in WA State the last 2 1/2yrs with the Navy and moving again soon lol
@@butlr732 Basic tool set for just the catback. I also recommend aftermarket exhaust tips as well to get rid of 90% of any drone. But tools are gonna be 15mm socket for the clamps. The rubber hangars are annoying to get off, i used a basic wrench to get leverage and wedge them off (there are 2 hangars for each exhaust). You will need to remove a plate near the center that goes across, there are 3 different size nuts to remove each side (it’s in the video). And remember to keep your oem gaskets to re-use if your exhaust doesn’t come with new ones.
@@fauonthebeat5716 Drone is the loud noise and vibrations that you hear inside the cabin of your car while driving with a loud exhaust. The stock Stinger exhaust pipes end just short of the fake exhaust tips so when you get a louder exhaust, all that sound/vibrations bounces around underneath the car creating an annoying driving experience. What you want is for your exhaust to sound louder on the outside without it annoying your ears on the inside so buying exhaust tips that will connect to your exhaust pipes ensures that the sound/vibration travels all the way to the end of your car so all that sound is behind you instead of underneath you.
Yeah man, install is super easy. Just make sure to line the exhaust up correctly so they aren’t hitting and vibrating in the chrome tips on the end. Best way is to have one person hold it in place how you want it, then have a second person tighten the clamp nice and tight so it doesn’t move👌🏽
Not bad at all. Got louder after i installed the Ultimate Performance high flow cat down pipes/ mid pipe combo. But after installing some carbon fiber exhaust tips and lining the trunk with Dynamat Extreme, virtually all drone is gone. However the downpipes gave it a bit of a “rasp” in the first couple gears if you step on it so im either thinking to ad resonators or completely sell the whole system and buy the RES Titanium Bi-modal turboback exhaust system. But im still really happy with my setup so far.
Just installed the ARK Grip Catback Exhaust today. Sounds really good! Waiting for the ARK Downpipes on backorder. Those are gonna make it really Mad!!
During this video, I did not gap them. HKS plugs come pre gapped to .028. However, i just recently swapped them out after 20k-25k miles because i was having some timing corrections and wanted to see if maybe it was the plugs, only this time i closed the gap on the new HKS plugs to .022 and that pretty much seemed to do the trick. Results will vary from car to car though.
Dielectric grease is an insulator. It is non conductive. It should not be placed on the metal parts. It’s placed on the ceramic portion of the plug to prevent arcing.
