Hey y'all, I'm SuperGuy KY. I fix, make, & build all sorts of things. Come along for the ride and maybe you will learn a thing or two. I try to publish a new video before the end of every month since they are so detailed, so standby for new content.
As a kid growing up in NKY (Northern Kentucky) I was naturally curious on how things worked. So from both my Kentucky upbringing and natural mechanical curiosity I was always taking things apart to see how they worked, how could I make it better, and how would it fail if I just left it?
These will mostly be DIY videos but also some reviews and my common-sense opinion on how to properly perform some tasks.
If you want to see me try something or my opinion on it, just comment on a video and maybe I will try it out! Don't forget to like a video if it helps you out or subscribe if you'd like to see more!
Hi there, I tried every trick in the book (new school & old school) but this nut refused to budge. The only thing that I could not do, is try to weld a new nut onto the end of the bolt. At the time, I did not own a welder, but I do now.
Hi there! Unfortunately this Civic has been sold and has been crashed twice by it's new owner already.... So sadly I will not be making a valve adjustment video on it. If you'd like me to get a project car and tinker around with it, like some videos & subscribe to help out the channel!
Hi there! Water pumps, just like all other mechanical components on any piece of equipment (cars, boats, tractors, bulldozers, etc.) experience wear & tear on them after so many cycles of use. At 24:59 in the video I spin both the old & then new impeller bearings, they are night and day different on the amount of effort to spin them. One-hundred thousand miles is a good rule of thumb to replace them in my experience, same with serpentine belts. Like & subscribe to help out the channel!
So when you were refilling the radiator with the Honda 50/50 mix, you said to fill the overflow. Did you fill it with Distilled water or the 50/50? Or does it matter?
Yes, it does matter. During the antifreeze/coolant flushes, always re-fill with distilled water. Once you have completed your final flush, then drain all of the distilled water and re-fill both the radiator & the overflow with the Honda 50/50 mix.
Your welcome! I am currently editing the engine oil, trans fluid, brake line bleed, engine air filter & cabin air filter Civic video. Stay tuned for more!
Was reading too lower on the Amperage current return to the battery. I have another video of me swapping the battery out on the Civic as well. Here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fSHJpXSQqbs.htmlsi=Hch2tHVFrrqoLyAu
I concur! But I just changed the filter & it holds ~1/2 quart. So I only poured 9.5 quarts at the end after I re-installed the new lower oil drain pan.
Absolutely! I gave the 3/8" Drive ratchet a few smacks off-camera to make sure it wouldn't leak. The new PPE oil pan is coming soon in my future for my Duramax. It holds an extra quart, for a total of 11. Since it has a flat bottom to it, I'll also be draining all of the dirtiest oil out as well. Here's the link: www.amazon.com/High-Capacity-Aluminum-114052120-Compatible-2011-2016/dp/B07V58GHKG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=HTOWGXMI6FR9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oGROUFIVfsACe-dRPKqT5G8AZsWSst8ekeTFvQgEc3bGjHj071QN20LucGBJIEps.mDpv466nOz01CEo7WARnmwVBZwci2lj8tofK_98COek&dib_tag=se&keywords=114052120&qid=1720237553&sprefix=114052120%2Caps%2C284&sr=8-1
Hi there! Yes, you need to wait until the thermostat opens between each flush, reason being this way you circulate the new fluid/distilled water throughout the entire cooling system, and not just the radiator. This is usually between 10-15 minutes from when you start the vehicle. I was replacing the thermostat & water pump, so I figured I would flush the antifreeze/coolant while I had those parts off. They leak all of the fluid out while replacing them anyway.
Your welcome! The wider parts of the bridjits face away from the driveway. Just like the wider 'apron' portion of the driveway does towards the street. Like the video to help out the channel!
How did you get your overflow tank to get emptied, I filled it up in the beginning and it never went down throughout the process but its filled with the distilled water?
You have to wait until the thermostat opens and all of the distilled water is moving throughout the antifreeze/cooling system. Run the vehicle for about 10-15 minutes and then pop the overflow tank cap before you open the petcock drain valve.
So, if my problem is just the weather seal and that ONLY comes with the glass sunroof/moonroof, then i only need to order the glass sunroof and thats all??? I saw that you had other parts thats why i ask.
Yes. You can re-use the original fasteners & side covers for your sunroof. Just be very very careful so you do not lose them when it comes time to re-install.
Very very helpful vedio. If someone is planning for such heavy maintenance please make sure you have complete tools and replacement part available before starting.❤
So you say always use genuine Honda parts but your alternator is after market. Why? Also you went thru all that trouble, why wouldn't you replace your belt tensioner and your coolant hoses?
Hi there Eddy, if you read the above comments, you’ll find the answer to your questions. Please check out my other Civic videos & more are coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Hi there! The overflow anti-freeze reservoir I think you mean? Once the thermostat opens up, the overflow tank gets mixed with all anti-freeze to flush the system. It is critical to wait for the thermostat to open, to fully flush the internal coolant orifices inside of the engine.
Hi there! I completed that off-camera. During editing, I figured that the video was long enough already, so I just did not include that in the final cut.
My 2014 is at 307k km and everything is original lol I am just going to replace the engine coolant right after finishing this video. I believe that your original alternator will outlast that aftermarket alternator that you put in.
Hi there! I tend to agree that OEM components/parts usually outlast aftermarket and/or remanufactured ones (unless they are poorly designed from the OEM). The windings on the original one had begun to deteriorate (the rotor bearing sounded & felt very crusty as well), so I decided to go ahead and replace it while I had the serpentine belt off for the water pump replacement. I tested the output voltage on the original, and it was ~12.5 Volts, it should be around 13.9 - 14.5 V. Watch my video on the battery replacement to learn how to troubleshoot for that. Here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fSHJpXSQqbs.html #KeepWrenching!
What a great video. Thanks for posting this. I have definitely learned a few things. I haven't had to replace anything major on my 2012 Civic yet and it has 224,000 KM's. Hopefully it last's many more years.
Thank you very much! My goal is to make videos to help both DIY'ers and anyone that would like to gain knowledge on how to work on anything with your hands. Stay tuned for more videos!
Good video , thanks for the information on caring for lawn equipment . Isn't red threadlock for permanent install ? Pipe threads are tapered and don't really need much or any sealant .
Hi there! Red thread-locker is for fasteners that are 'more permanent', than the blue variety. The common theory is, blue for hand tool removeable & red for power tools. I am only doing this job once a year, so I don't want any possibility of that plug shaking loose during the 'jarring and/or banging around' while the machine is in-use. There are zero taper in the threads on that hose plug. It's basically completely square to the point where it bottom's out into a cavity.
wow and i changed my alternator 4 times myself cause they kept giving me messed up ones. i asked my uncle to help me with the tensor cause it is so hard. at the end i put a large metal tube on the wrench to have more lever force and it worked wonders. Tanks for letting that know. the thermostat and water pump has never been changed.
Glad I could help! Using a long pipe with a wrench handle inside of it is a 'trick' that all mechanics learn at some time in their tinkering journey. #KeepWrenching!
Thanks! On this specific video, I didn't see the need to go over torque specs. The only ones that were critical are the 8 mm for the tensioner (I think the torque from Honda is ~41 ft-lbs? Way too high), I tightened it to about 25 ft-lbs and blue Loctite on it so it could be removed in the future. And the bolts that fasten the water pump to the engine, I tightened them to about 20 ft-lbs each. Perhaps Loctite wasn't necessary, but it doesn't hurt and provides peace of mind to whoever did the job.
I'd like to get started on these repairs, but I don't have the money to do them all at once. Which ones would you recommend first? I already do regular oil changes and change my breaks. I've never really done any work in the engine bay other than servicing the battery and checking the fluids
Hi there, if you have been doing the standard engine oil & filter changes. My first question would be, when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? Not flush, change. I don't go over that in this video, but I have A-LOT of additional footage to sort through, so it may be somewhere in there. The very simplest under the hood thing to do, is just to change the air filter. For what I do in this video, it depends on your mileage/use of your Civic, but my guess is the antifreeze/coolant flush (with or without changing the thermostat) is the first thing I would do if I were you. Just be 1000% sure that the engine/coolant system is fully cooled down (has not ran for ~10 hours) before you crack open that radiator cap. Otherwise, you'll be scalded with hot Honda antifreeze.
Hi there! If I was going to be keeping this vehicle for another 100,000 miles, yes I would have done the tensioner, pulleys, spark plugs (changed out off-camera), engine & trans mounts, tie rod bushings, etc. but since it was already sold (pending pickup from new owner and awaiting this work to be completed) the new owner and I decided that the more basic-level of 100K mile service was more appropriate.
Great write up. It’s funny because I would have probably never seized some of the bolts you glued! You’re selling but I would’ve done that dastardly tensioner and idlers while I was at it-corrosion is a thing here. Again, very informative, even if I would slightly do it different. I’m curious if the manuals have a trans filter, I suspect not being gear oil. Would love to see how they’re done.
Thanks for the comment! The buyer did not want to pay the additional ~$150.00 for the tensioner (Honda OEM part # 31170-R0A-025), but I agree, to go ahead and replace it plus the pulley's if you already have the front of the engine taken off. I'm not sure if the manuals have a trans filter, I know that the automatics do. It is a major pain to replace it, I did not tackle that endeavor, since we were selling it. If we were going to keep it for another 100,000 miles, I would have made a video on that as well. It only costs about $35-$40, Honda OEM part # 25430-PLR-003. I usually buy my Honda parts via HondaPartsNow.com, to save from dealer prices.
Hi there! I do not do the trans fluid change in this video, that is on an upcoming one (engine oil & filter change, brake fluid flush, trans fluid change, spark plugs, I think that is it?). I have several in edit currently. The good news is that it is not difficult. Removing the air intake filter and it's plastic case makes the job really easy. I would add a few ounces of AT-205 to help re-condition the main seal against the engine also. That is what I did, it stopped the very slight leak that this Civic had before it went to it's new owner.
@@SuperGuyKY Awesome thank you for that! My 2015 has 180k on it so now I'm toying with the idea of new water pump. Once I get the current issues ironed out that is!
Your welcome! If you are at 180k in mileage, I would recommend checking all major wear items; bushings, ball-joints, wheel bearings, starter solenoid, spark plugs, etc. Just because a component has a large amount of miles on it, does not mean that it has failed/is in need of replacing. Some last longer than others, it just depends on the stresses and loads that they are put under.
Hi there! Can you show me a minute & second mark so I can figure out what you mean? I likely did something off-camera that I forgot to explain or show.
Thanks for making the video. I’m experiencing the same rust issues. Is it necessary to order all the other parts you listed? Or can I just order the sunroof?
Hi there & your welcome! To answer your question, no, you do not have to order all of the parts listed. If you have everything else on your current Civic and they are in good condition, then you can just order the sunroof. Not sure on current pricing, but it was about $400.00 when I bought it back in early summer of 2023. #KeepWrenching
Hi, I have the same laptop and I also need to replace the battery. I have replaced the battery twice in the last 5 years. The last battery was very poor quality and didnt last long. My main worry is that these laptops are old and most of the batteries on sale have been sitting on the shelves for a long time, i.e. they havent been charged for a long time and their longevity is not what it should be. How is your new battery holding on? Im not sure if I should just get a new laptop or replace the battery. (I might even get a new laptop and a new battery). I have had my laptop for 10 years and with an SSD upgrade its still a relatively decent computer. The main issue is that it doesnt provide me with mobility any more.
Hi there. I see what you mean, I had this laptop for about 6 years before I had to replace the battery the first time. That battery only lasted a few months and this one has lasted for over a year now and is still working with holding a full charge for at least 2 hours (fingers crossed). My main issue is that newer laptops do not come with CD-drives any longer, since everything is a digital download now. I guess I am 'old-school' in that way. If I were you, just wait until a great sale comes and get a new laptop, after the third battery, it isn't worth putting more or your time & money into an outdated piece of technology. That's just my thoughts. Good luck!
100,000 miles of wear made the one I was working on very brittle, and I broke it while taking the negative terminal off. So I bought an Amazon generic & the OEM from a Honda dealer. The generic didn't fully complete the safety circuit within the fuse box and the battery light went on & off on my test-drive. So I put the OEM on and it's been off ever since. I have the Honda part # in the description. This is why I always recommend OEM parts, they may be more expensive, but they are worth it in the long run. Otherwise, you will be doing the same job again in the future if you go with a generic. I talk about that at the end of the video.
Do yourself a favor and save all the old parts in a box. My car reached an age that was near impossible to order new parts and because of a maintenance part I could no longer get I had to give up my old reliable car. It pays to save old out of date parts that are no longer available.
I agree! My dad has an El Camino that he bought new back in the 80's, and we always save the old parts when we work on it. The only place we can find any parts of it, are either eBay, or Original Parts Group.
Hi there! I suggested that to the new owner, but he did not want to pay for the extra part. The tensioner part # OEM from Honda for this 2012 Civic is: 31170-R0A-025. Keep wrenching!
