The shuttle in the Minix can be easy to fix if it clicks and does not fire. This may be down to an gap adjustment on the shutter actuating level. There is a video on how to carry out this adjustment all one ne3ds to do is remove the light absorbing cone behind the lens to expose the adjustment screws, simple to do. I got my Minox EL running in minutes.
The Minox is a lovely design. I found one in a box, so went to the store for batteries and film. Put in the batteries, almost put in the film. I decided to check if the shutter works. Although it made a clicking sound, the shutter wasn't moving. I was so disappointed. It's a satisfying design, and people sing praises of the lens. But mine, in apparent mint condition, doesn't work.
This camera is the 'Ensign Focal Plane' , it was introduced in 1914 and was made by Houghtons Ltd. It was intended for press photographers and was made in two sizes, 1/4- plate and 9 X 12 cm. both were leather covered. The bellows is soft kid skin. The lens was controlled by a lever. The camera featured a pull-out focussing frame with folding hood and ground glass. The shutter was fitted with a braking arrangement which comes into action when the shutter is set for slow speeds. This ensures that the actual exposures coincide more accurately with the indicated speeds on the focal plane shutter, it also comes into action at the time and bulb exposures to check shock and prevent vibration. The camera was sold with either the following lenses; Ensign Anastigmat lens, f/5.5 Series V No 1a, 5 1/4 in in focussing mount, with 3 double plate holders. Ditto, Ensign, f/4.5, series IV, No 1a, 5 1/4 in. Ditto with Zeiss Tessar Anastigmat, f/4.5 series Ic, No 14, 5 1/4 in. Ditto, with Cooke Anastigmat Series II, 5 in, in focussing mount. Ditto, with Aldis Anastigmat, f/4.5 in. Ditto, with Goerz-Dogmar, f/4.5 No. Oa, 5 1/4 in. The price with either the Zeiss and Cooke lens was 13 15 Pounds. Ensign cameras began with George Houghton who in 1834 made a partnership with Antoine Claudet. At the deceasement of Claudet in 1867 the company was named George Houghton & Son, in 1904 this became Houghtons Ltd. which ended in 1926. The name Ensign was registered in 1902. In 1914 Houghtons employed 1.150 people. In 1915 Houghtons explored bussiness interests with William Butcher & Sons Ltd, and in 1926 the two companies merged, becoming Houghton-Butcher (Great Britain) Ltd. it became the largest camera factory in Britain. The horrors of the Great War and the law against 'collaborating with the enemy' precluded any imports from Germany and henceforth Houghton-Butcher proudly registered their cameras were made in Britain. The leather needs to be rubbed in with quality black leather polish. Don't be afraid about setting the shutter, the cloth might be in need of replacement anyway.
An interesting video. The small board with the 32.768 kHz crystal could be an RTC clock, the frequency being that of a clock crystal. The SMD IC is most likely a frequency divider/clock chip. On this side of the circuit board it is more likely for some jumpers for configuration to be found. Possibly grouped together, maybe using 0 ohm SMD resistors or solder blobs.
Hello! I am looking for information about my great-grandfather's camera. It has a plaque that apparently says Ottomar Anschütz, but it doesn't have any kind of button on the sides. Do you know where I can see a catalogue about it?
Have this camera. Bought it for 10 dollars at a flea market. All I needed to do to it was to take off the top and clean the finder. Used it for a couple of years and can attest that the image quality is everything it's made out to be. Then I made the mistake of sending it off to be cleaned and lubed and to have the thing converted to 120 film. Unfortunately the technician was less than adept at his craft. It was returned to me with the rangefinder window crooked and, worse, a badly bent blade in the camera's shutter. I sent it back to be corrected, and for the space of two rolls of film all seemed well. Then the shutter simply died. I believe our intrepid camera technician had over clocked the shutter's spring mechanism in an attempt to overcome the added resistance caused by the damaged shutter blade. Even though he subsequently replaced the bad blade I believe the shutter remained too taught. It sits on a shelf now. Eventually I will send it off to a more qualified technician to have the shutter repaired. It is a magnificent camera. I have several rolls of negatives to prove as much
The FR4 board was manufactured as a single layer PCB for 'cost savings', so the wire jumpers are simply the equivalent vias and traces on the top side. No need to figure them out. I've seen this many times, but never in Sony quality kit. I think this is a knock-off. PS: Sony is notorious for not sharing schematics. PPS: all the important parts are on the other side of the PCB. Shame you didn't share any of it.
Quite possible. Though when looking at the circuit board there was no obvious reason to do these, there was plenty of space to do them with vias and traces. Also an oddity was clearly hand soldered connections.
That crossed my mind, too. Config jumpers tend to be bunched in an easily accessible corner of a board. That PCB just looks like a single sided board that needed jumpers because of space.
I am definitely planning to convert this one to 120 and make videos out of it. I am just still missing quite a lot of information about how the people that used to do it actually managed it. Any viewers out there with a converted medalist?
My personal preference in the compact 35mm field is one which fits in a pants pocket - but "also" uses a long throw focusing adjustment, which then stays put once set. The cameras with the longest focus throw have more marked distance increments for subjects that are close in. I guess if the photographer only uses the f8 or f11 apertures this isn't critical. The Vito IIa has a helical that rotates a 180 degrees from the 1 meter mark to its infinity focus setting. The focus helical on the Rollei 35S rotates 90 degrees. On the highly rated Olympus 35RC focus helical only rotates 45 degrees between infinity and its nearest focus setting. The Rollei 35S offers a happy middle ground with regards to quality feel of its focus helical. I have the older sibling of the Vito IIa, which is the Vito II. An accessory viewfinder like the Kontur or Leitz SBOOI are an absolute necessity on these pre-1957 Voigtlanders, if the photographer wears eye glasses. The later Vitomatics and some Vito B models have a luxurious viewfinder with a 1:1 magnification - which means a larger camera that does not fit in a pants pocket.
Hauskaa, juuri pari viikkoa sitten tutkin samoja raiteita ja ihmettelin, että miksi edistyksellinen sähkörata oli ajettu alas. Ja samalla tavalla aloin tutkia asiaa jopa niin, että vaimo vähän hermostui, kun lomalla vaan tutkin jotain ”hiton vanhoja raiteita”..😝
A nice old piece of equipment. I think I saw a 1961 date on one of the capacitors so this would appear to be towards the end of the production of these.
This camera was designed during World War II by Simmons Bros., makers of Omega enlargers, for an Army contract. However, it took so long that only a small part of the contract was produced before terminated at the end of the war. In the early 1950s, Simmons Bros. sought to recover on what was a failed product by offering it on the open market. This one looks like a post-war version. It was considered ugly and limited in usability in the face of renewed Rolleiflex production and the invasion of Hasselblad into the professional market. By the mid-1950s, the Omega 120 was withdrawn for good. There were enough sold such that you can usually find some for sale on ebay in the range of $200-250, usually in pretty beaten condition. The camera uses a solid Wollensack shutter and a Wollensack lens which is a good four-element Tessar copy. Some ten years after closing this model, Simmons Bros., partnered with Konica to redesign a camera using the unique film advance system and overall design, with much improved the film back and adding interchangeable lenses. This new model, the Koni Omega Rapid and following versions, was hugely successful with pros in spite of its rather high price. After issuing marginal improvements to the camera over some 5 years, Konica sold all the rights, tools, etc., to Mamiya, which continued to made it as the "Rapid Omega 200 or 100" until 1976. Among the later models, the best (most featured and usable) versions are the Koni Rapid M or Rapid Omega 200, the same exact cameras.
The batteries powered the focus lamp which sent beams of light out from the rangefinder for focus in dim light, and also power electric shutter release which was interlocked to special film holders for double exposure prevention, a feature few press cameras had. I think you needed special Kalart film holders for that to work.😊
I bought some new 620 from Chicago, re spooled some. Been thinking about doing the 120 conversion myself since many of the makers are already retired. @@Sennmut
From 1957 through 1960 I lived in Tirrenia on the street that paralleled the tracks between the train station north toward Marina do Pisa. The train ran right in front of our house and it was used regularly. Many Americans who worked In Livorno and at camp Darby lived in Tirrenia. There was a movie studio on the right hand side of the road going from Tirrenia to Camp Darby that was used for the filming of an American TV show I believe called American Foreign Legion in the early 1950s. There was a riding stables on the left side of the road to Camp Darby that housed horses used in Spaghetti Westerns that were filmed there as well. You have uncovered some of the forgotten history of Tirrenia.
It was a great trip! Sorry for looking so tired, I actually wasn't. It turned out later that day, from GPS tracking, that we walked in total 23 kilometers...
Cool! The heavy-duty milled body with dozens of screws is meant to prevent RF from leaking, the attenuator works up to the UHF range. The attenuator came from a 1980s radio telephone test set and its attenuation range goes down to -130dB.
I just got 1 of these radios.can you tell me about the battery's needed to make it work.does it use 1 battery on the left side.and another set of Batts in the middle.thanks fron michigan
Yes, it takes 2 different batteries, 1.5V LT (Eveready No. 950) and 67.5V. HT (Eveready No. 467) I am building the 67.5V battery from an assortment of 9v batteries and attaching them to each other. I finally got myself a workshop and I will soon make more videos about this and other radios I have.
I picked up this camera on a lark (some people think it's an ugly camera, I disagree) and absolutely love it! It's the lightest medium format camera I have, yet is built very solidly, and takes wonderful 6x7 pictures. The ergonomics are great and the operation is very simple and efficient. The only problem my copy is the vertical is off on the rangefinder, but the horizontal works fine. I haven't found out how to adjust the rangefinder yet, if you know how to or know someone who does please let me know!
From memory- Unscrew the two screws that hold the silver label on the front on. This will reveal a screw you can use to adjust the rangefinder. It's likely glued so you may need some force or a drop of solvent to turn it. The best way to adjust it is to take a small piece of ground glass and put the camera at infinity. Make sure infinity actually is in focus, then adjust the rangefinder on a distant object. I'm not sure how to adjust the horizontal vs vertical but this is a good start I hope.
These cameras have so called lean on cassettes. You do not need to slide them into the camera, you just put the bottom of the cassette (or the viewer) on the bottom grove of the camera and than move the rest of the cassette onto the camera, till it clicks shut. The ICA Ideal 225 was the high end portrait format 9x12cm model and sold all over the world. There were also an Ideal 111 for 6x9 cm, a 325 for 10x15 cm, and a 385 for 13x18 cm plates. The more expensive ICA cameras had a square back and a triple instead of double bellow extension, and they were also available made out of teakwood. The Ideal models all were made out of cast aluminum.
Thanks for the video. I was given one of these cameras to restore. It's a barn find, dusty and crusty but the ground glass and bellows are intact. It has a blank sleeve made lens board and I was given two lenses to repair and use. First is a Kodak Ektar 127mm f4.7 with synchro compur T-400 shutter and a Graphflex optar 135mm f4.7 with Rapax shutter T-400. Neither work, slow and sticky. I think just need good servicing.
It rotates also opposite direction for certain shutter speeds but does not seem to always set them. However when rotating according to arrow it works always correctly and keeps on rotating.
Ottomar Anschütz Lissa (Posen) Lissa, actual Leszno, Poland, is where the Anschütz shutters were made, or at least were Ottomar Anschütz was from. Posen is Poznan, now also in Poland. Back then it was Germany, but you know, World Wars... I have a couple of Angos, one 1/4 plate, working and one 1/2 plate not working. Interesting focal plane cameras, but I prefer the American Graflex Auto, simpler shutter and huge reflex cameras
I am currently traveling, but when back home I will check if I have some. Is there anything specific of the shutter you would like to see in the photos?
@@oldtechshack I've recently bought a Deckrullo - the shutter curtains aren't good but the mechanism is working quite well. It needs new curtains, but I'm worried about taking it apart, and generally any tips about how it comes apart. I guess the mechanism comes out in one piece, I'm not sure how risky it is that parts will start flying - or other potential problems.
@@039584850938 Hi, Unfortunately I did not find photos yet... it has been almost 10 years when I repaired this camera. What I remember is that it shares some of the repair problems with Zeiss Contax cameras. Also if I remember correctly the only spring "should" be under the shutter speed dial when opening the cover to the mechanism. An older person who owned a repair shop told me about 20 years ago that repairing this shutter even when new was difficult. If the straps along which the fabrics run are broken.. it needs to be the exact same material and size due to it relying on the friction co-efficienct of the material to function properly. If you can do the repair without removing the fabrics... always better. I used a black fabric paint which makes fabric completely light proof to replace the cracked rubber. Worked very nice... but I cannot find the paint bottles anywhere anymore. I will keep lookin for the photos.
