Welcome to my channel! My name is Adam Martin and I own a small business that repairs and restores antique/classic cars. My specialty is GM stuff pre-72, mostly Buick, but I will work on anything. I use this channel to upload random videos of cars I'm working on, completed jobs, or the occasional rant or issue I have when working on a particular project. Really exciting stuff...
My 69 eldo has dragging front brakes New calipers, pistons move freely, new rebuilt Delco Moraine booster master matched combination from reputable Cadillac restoration company I busted the master off the booster and it was definitely touching , I'd not actually pushing against it.. Do you know if those rods are adjustable? Can I washer the master? Or it needs to be inserted inside the female cup of the booster? So close!!!! Thank you Great video btw
My dad had one, same color. I believe he said he put a 409 in it because he needed more. lol!!! He always regretted selling that car. He had some old road runners too. One of which I had me a little campfire on the back floorboard with some matches I found under the seat. Made a hole in the carpet and i wore a sore ass fer about a month from the whoopin I got. I was only about 6 but I learned not to play with fire.
Ive installed matching booster and master cylinder which came with the same hardware you have shown. Bled brakes and it still wont start braking until bottom of the pedal. Do they not make adjustable pushrod pins for these units? Im fairly certain my gap is too big, have no idea how i can close that . Iv even had a lower hole drilled into the pedal arm for longer travel still no luck. Any fixes?
email me a photo of the pushrod, and one of the back of the master cylinder. Did you bench bleed the master before installing? adam@antiqueautomotiveservice.com
@@antiqueautomotiveservice yea its all been done by me and shop. Drilled lower hold in pedal, helped alittle but not great. Im thinking last option is shave down the longer pushrod pin to a better length with the spacer. Unless you can think of any other options or fixes. I put something temp spacing in the master cylinder and it stops like a champ just need permanent and safe solution.
I’m still waiting for my “barn find” to turn up but I haven’t given up hope , yet . I’m getting too old to deal with it but I’m not too old yet . I’m a Mopar guy so if anyone has something they want to sell ………..
A strong spring on the other end pulls the shaft out of position. GM's fault was using solder to hold it together. The spring is stronger than the solder. To relieve the tension and keep the shaft centered when releasing the solder is difficult. When the cylinder is put upright on a surface the shaft sticks out about a 16th of and inch past the speed cup. It would wobble slightly. A dealer in southern Missouri dealership forced GM to take new units off the assembly line to replace failing units on sold cars in 1954. Done many of them. The copper piece is called a speed cup. Make sure to clean out all the shavings. Remember, NO graphite on ANYthing!
Man what a find. That thing's actually in really good shape. That color is gorgeous too. Repaint that exact color, I would; fix the mechanical and other cosmetic issues and woe!
I’ve had this scenario happen a few times now. A lot of times they will say they only take cash app and Apple Pay. and then their story changes about what payment methods they accept, which accounts to send the payment to, etc. I unfortunately had this happened to me the other day and thankfully, I used the credit card so the chances of me getting my money back or a lot higher than it would’ve been if I had paid cash. It was the same sort of scenario where I told them what parts I needed they gave me a price. I was good to go and I’ve done this before in the past with other parts have not had a problem but lately within the past year or so, this sort of scam tactic has become more and more common. It’s really sad that we live in a world where these sorts of problems are becoming so common
Thought this was about trim removal tips why are we stuck listening about this car n it's replacement bumpers n all the other bullshit we don't care about the history or any of that shit absolutely nothing just get to the point and ur channel would gain so many more followers but ur bearing monolog I will cut u jokes suck get to the point please! U loose so many views cause u don't cut to the chase! Not trying to be a pric but seriously just get to the point and fast in ur videos
Best: clean shiny original zero miles perfect. Second best: clean original with a history 3rd best: repainted mostly original nice honest car 4th best: totally restored just like new concourse car 5th best: tired old original car that was just washed 6th best: worn out original that needs to be cleaned and painted 7th best: worn out original that is far gone enough that it needs everything 8th best: thrashed mostly original but with a colorful past and lots of rust 9th best: damaged but complete needs rust repairs and full rest 10th best: rusted out pile of molested junk that's missing lots and is really only valuable for the Vin 11th best: wadded up pile of incompleye twisted metal with no reason to save. No way that washing something ever knocks off value. SMH
Thanks much, Adam-- I've owned 1970 Buicks for 35+ years and could NOT remember how to get that latch off! Appreciate you! Also, enjoyed meeting you in the lead-up to the big Buick show in Spokane last summer. (Bluesky on V8 Buick) Hope you had a great time and a good trip home.
Soooooo, the elephant in the room is this. What does one do with 510ft/lbs of torque? From what I understand, if one were to apply prodigious throttle at the right time, at least one rear tire would be annihilated quickly. Being a Stage 1 car, I’m pretty sure it’s got the Positraction differential. So we will need to see proof of that. Hint. Hint.
A power washer has its place, and so does a pressure regulator. All of the stickers on the car could have been destroyed easily. Especially on the breather cover where it’s brittle from heat cycles. Not to mention the chrome plating on a breather cover is not the same as on a bumper. And the plastic lenses. Ouch, they were screaming for mercy. Why didn’t he go ahead and do the door panels with the power wash as well? I mean, I get it, but these things are literally once in a lifetime. Then again, what belongs to someone else is just that, someone else’s decisions to make as well. Nice job on the interior though. Nice job everywhere. Just. Damn. Easy baby. That thing is 55 years old and deserves every bit of respect it can hold onto. There I go again. With my opinion. What is it they say, opinions are like rectums, everybody’s gonna grab their ankles and wink sooner or later! No. That’s not it. Wait, opinions are like rectums, everyone should just keep them to themselves. Yeah, that the cliche. Nailed it. About that torque number.
It sounds like you have a spacer stuck in the master cylinder. Some manufacturers will use a spacer in lieu of providing longer push rod. The spacer utilizes the short pushrod like the one shown in the booster here. And the spacer will be installed in the deep cup of the master. But it will just fall out if you let it.
How does removing dirt, mouse droppings and a rotten vinyl top reduce the value of the car by 50%? The only thing I cringed at was using the knife to cut the vinyl top around the window moldings. Those moldings should have been removed so all of the roof covering could be gotten to and completely removed. That car should be refinished only where the rust and missing paint affected the body panels. A really competent restorer could match the paint with no difficulty. And as was said by others, the roof would look very good finished in white. That's a very desirable, original Buick GS, and it deserves first-class treatment.
Cascade Blue is right, My parent's friends had a 71 Electra Limited in the same color combo, my parents had the 71 Olds 98 LS in the same color and combo. they always bought The Buick we had the Oldsmobile. we had a green 77 98 Regency, they had a green 77 Buick Electra Limited, we had a gold 66 Vista Cruiser, they had the 66 Buick sportwagon.. It was a joke among their friends by the 1980's My parents and the other couple turned 50, and here in The South, if you were a GM person when you turned 50 you bought a Cadillac, which they did. but my parent's enjoyed their Oldsmobiles so they bought the bestlooking GM sedan of the 80's the 84 Olds 98 Brougham. it was nicer than their friend's SDV. anyhow that was the last Olds they owned, and after GM dropped Olds, no one in my extended family owns a GM product.
At the end of WW2 mechanics came home and started Souping up their cars. Manufacturers decided to get in on the market and that's how we got all these muscle cars. With that said, I don't care if it's numbers matching or 40yrs of patina. If the car looks good, drives good, and knocks your socks then 👍🏻 So take a picture of it dirty then turn it into a looker 😁
Why can’t it be soft washed not pressure washed? I never understood that. Seems like pressure can damage more and trust me these old cars are leaking water inside of it and possibly trunk area too
It leaked everywhere. There was no saving rubber parts etc. I'm very aware of when I should and shouldn't use a power washer. This car would leak everywhere if it merely rained on it.
It was a poor attempt at a joke by washing the barn dust off. Cars seem to go for stupid money if they are labeled "barn finds" and the original dust is left on them. It's ludicrous.
I had the exact car in the 80's same state too, with foglights behind the grill, thought it might have been my old one but mine till I saw the white interior., mine was blue ( if memory serves) I have bought and sold a bunch of muscle cars but that is the one I miss most.
People do not realize how bad the finish was on the cars of this era. In my youth I was a Mopar guy and had a lot of original paint Mopars from the early 70's. The paint and build quality was pretty bad back then. Original paint Mopars had paint runs all over the place and the decals were more often than not crooked. It is obvious that the manufacturers were cranking cars out as fast as they could and quality was not a high priority. You could not sell a car like that today.
