I just want to share some fun videos taken with my camera. I am a retired mechanical engineer by trade, but will dabble in almost any household, car or bike repair project. And being retired gives me the time to dabble I never had while working "for the man"
for sure carb problem brother, not electrical and like i told you I got some bad *new spark plugs* if that gas tank is not clean and you dont have a fuel filter in place it only take a smidgen of dirt or grit to stop the carbs back up, you can rebuild carbs till your blue in the face and if the gas tank has any grit and grime in it it will stop the carbs up before you can blink your eye, trust me I have struggled with my rusted gas tank for the past 3 to 4 years and even with a fuel filter particles of rust will still get past the filter and stop the carbs up, make sure your tank is crystal clean and install a high quality fuel filter, listen to this, I'm still so concerned that my tank still has rust in it that down low i have a fuel T section that after i ride each day I will turn fuel off from gas tank and then connect to a sperate jug of gas with a separate fuel pump and i will run fresh clean gas through the carbs until I am sure they have fresh gas in them, I'm telling you I have had hell with the gas tank on mine not being clean, it only takes a tiny amount of grit and grime to stop them up, take it from somebody who knows brother, id be willing to bet now that seeing no fuel filter in place on yours and not knowing if the tank is clean or not on yours I would almost bet that they are already stopped up again, your problem is not electrical, it's fuel delivery starting with your fuel pump, run it for a while with the seperate jug of gasoline off to the side and mix in pure carb cleaner with the jug of gas and see if that helps, im trying to help you man and you just dont know how easy it is to stop those carbs up ! ok man try a new fuel pump and run it for a day or so with a seperate fuel jug with cleaner added and see what happens.
I see no fuel fliter but it may have one I cant see and believe it or not I had some bad *new plugs* I had 2 of a new set of four spark plugs that were bad right out of the box
one final note, the fuel pump on my 1993 gsx1100g does not run at all unless your either turning the motor or if its running, if you simply turn the key on and not crank it you will hear no fuel pump noise at all !! I would replace the fuel pump as sure as the sun will rise tomorrow if I were you, very cheap to find out,
see mine dont make all that fuel pump noise and it shouldn't unless the bowls are empty or its a bad fuel pump, have you tried a new pump ? there only 20 dollars on Ebay and Id try one cause the long length of noise yours is making is absolutely not normal, mine makes no nise at all !!!,,, ps, I literally tapped and touched the exhaust pipes on mine before hand to see if they were heating up and yes I burnt myself a time or 2 but that's the way I checked mine,,haha and your bike is bheautiful
My bike never made all that fuel pump noise either. It's part of a safety feature designed into the bike for USA models. I had to make it do that so I could get the carbs filled after the fuel had evaporated in the summer heat here in AZ. Or in this case... after I had serviced the carbs and they were empty. Otherwise the ECU only gives the pump permission to run when it receives a signal that a spark has been sent to the spark plugs. Here are two videos that show how I did that... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-faNsKfr0IEo.html a powerpoint conversion slowing slides every 5 seconds - and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w9WVH0HIG6M.html Actually being used The pump is the original and still works fine.
you are no doubt very book smart on yours Rich and again these bikes like mine and yours are very easy for the carbs to stop up on, if I were you Id start at ground zero and remove the tank and then take the fuel oulet off the bottom of it and put a gallon or so of gas in and and slosh it around and then poor it into a white or light colored 5 gl bucket and see what you get, if theres any grit and gime at all than your carbs are stopping back up, it is amazing how easy they are to stop up, when i realized this fact on mine is when I bought multi high dollar buckets of cleaner and started the 2 year process of letting the tank soak, yours of course want take that long since it is a mcuh better amd newer looking bike , the tank has to be rust free brother, anyway I don't know if you seen my video but I posted one yesterday and each day when I get through riding I "T" into a outlet near the carbs and run it 4 to 5 minutes while being fed from a 2 gl bucket of fresh gas with carb cleaner added, after all the cleaning ive done on my gas tank I still don't trust that there is no tiny tiny rust particles still in the tank, I tried and found another tank on Ebay in almost new condition but was sold before I could buy it, anyway, I know its hard but Id make sure and even feed it gas from a seperate container all together for a few days after doing the carbs again, I even considered buying saddle bags to install a fuel tank in and maybe will still do that someday, and also I probably had 2 or 3 bad "new spark" plugs so look out there and if you have another exhaust pipe not getting hot try another spark plug first cause its hard to believe but I had that happen a couple times in process of doing mine, after and if you start over again leave the tank off and feed from a seperate 2 or 3 gl tank which will make checking a particular spark plug easier if not heating up, its a amzing how often you can get a bad plug among new ones, I start out making sure the gas tank is clean and add new pump and then go from there man.
@@richbinaz even near microscopic particles of rust will eventually stop a carburator up, while you have a the tank valve off make sure the screen covering each outlet is solid with no rips or tare and replace them if you can find them, hard to find
you seem like a skilled mechanic my friend but i did not take the tops off my carbs since I didn't feel it necessary, test them submerged in a suitable container of gas and see how the tubes slide up and down, also I know you know this but the video of the floats your showing thje floats are held in place with the installation of the bow, brother it seems like you have had some bad luck because it truly looks like your more skilled in motorcycle carbs than I am so maybe i got lucky, I have a been a mechanic all my life but not on motorcycle carbs so I was very skeptical mine would even run after wards, like I say the main jet was not in the new kits so I reused the old one and got lucky, I hope you get it going sir and wish the best of luck and the upper diaphragms on yours looked great and I hope mine are the same and they must be to run like a singer sewing machine,,good luck man
Not a mechanic by trade Rick, just had to deal with these things for a long time. During this long drawn out fault finding session (lasted for months) I'm just trying to find out what is wrong this time - as it is different to all the times before, which were due to the carbs flooding for one reason or another. Occasionally it would be plugged idle jets (they are too small) or the floats have failed, the o-rings were bad etc.
man I grit my teeth when I hear that poor starter turning non stop,,please stop doing that,,,lol,,i could rebuild them carbs and make it run like brand new and you wouldnt even need the choke brother and I wish that was my bike
Hi. I ended up rebuilding the carbs multiple times, went down a lot of dead ends. Needed more than just a rebuild kit. Ended up creating a playlist - just don't listen to the starter cranking!! ru-vid.com/group/PLWHom5FLIC6t5rmC7iBQ4wjdpeX2Ji4z0 There should be one more video to come, but I'm waiting for the heat to subside in PHX before I take it out for a proof run. The upcoming video will be about the choke valves allowing fuel to pass, without even being open. Worst carbs ever, they have always been a problem.
@@richbinaz you have a beautiful classic bike there and I adore mine, although pretty mine is not as pretty to look at as yours by no means but Im telling you you would fall in love with the way it runs, idles like a baby and you truly do not even have to choke it unless it is freezing cold which this past winter i kept it cranked and did have to slightly choke it if the temp was below 40 degree's,,,,,, let me ask this or let me tell you this, the next time you take the carbs off have them totally submerged with fresh clean gas and in a container that you can look down the inlet side of the carbs, while submerged take your finger and lift up each tube and feel are there any pressure there and when you release them if they slide back down not slow but slowly, if they have no resistance either way then you have a blow diagram and i don't think they make them anymore, I got lucky with mine and they were still totally intact, they are also a couple of jet screws that go in very hard to find places and it took my buddy at the Honda shop to point them out,, if the diagrams check out ok and if you will totally disassemble the carbs,,turn each jet all the way in and count the turns and then when you replace them turn them to the same amount outward,, I did not take each individual carb loose from each other but I had a container they all fit down in and then i bought 2 gallons of "kim dip" at $40 per gallon, I let them soak 2 or 3 days and then with high pressure air I blew out everything opening I could find and even ran a torch tip cleaner ( you know the round toothpick looking cleaners) through each opening I could find and made sure nothing was stopped up, I reassembled them using what the kit furnished which was a good bit but not the main jet which I had to reluctantly reused, anyway all I had to do was turn the idle down on it but it cranked almost the first 3 or 4 times it turned and truly runs like a brand new motorcycle, I wish I had your carbs in hand so i could look at them and check them cause your going to pay $1200 dollars for a shop to do it, good luck buddy and let me know about the upper diagram's ok, its best not to remove them unless you feel its needed,,, also I have bought a couple extra carb kits for it amd the same as the first cause some day in the future thay may not be available anymore,,,Rick Jasper Alabama
@@snowmangsx1100 Thanks for the reply. I bought the bike back in '93 from a dealer In Tucson, who was using it as a demo model. It's a '91 version & had 60 miles on the clock. So I have had it quite a long time. The diaphragms are still good on the bike, I bought a new one just to check and there was no difference in their operation. There is actually quite a good source of carb parts here store.moto-lab.com/bst36-fuel-system-parts?bst36_mmy=901 Not all are parts are available anymore and in the playlist you see me changing out the needle jets with a Kit from Dynojet. That cured a lot of the flooding problems. The Choke on these carbs is interesting in that it adds it's own separate amount of fuel and air for starting. For example, if the engine was not firing because the mixture was too rich - opening the choke adds enough air to bring the mixture back into the range where it will fire... Very odd, and that is what was happening to my bike.
I just rebuilt the carbs on mine and it runs like brand new , also your gonna burn the starter up on it trying to make it crank , it has a carb problem so dont burn your starter up man,,,all you need is the carbs cleaned and kits put in them, I did mine myself and it runs like it did the day it was sold, I dont even have to choke mine to crank and that is a beautiful bike you have there so please get the crabs built or do it yourself and save your starter, I doubt you can even find a starter for it anymore so please get the carbs built and quit giving that poor starter hell,,beautiful condition bike you have and wish mine looked that good
My one rear drum has a rhythmic spring/ crunch noise when I'm braking under like 15 mph I can hear it go crunch crunch crunch ( slowing as I slow down ) It did this very shortly after putting new rear shoes on it. Iv had it doing this for a few months now and just ignored it but have to drive far and want to make sure it's all good I'll take the drum off tomorrow and check but haven't been able to find any info on what would cause that. Some people say it needs to be adjusted tighter or the drum is out of round ( it's not the backing plate needing lube as I did that)
Crunching is not a good noise. When you put new shoes in, did you put new drums on also? The drums do wear down and if they have a wear ridge on the inside or outside, that can cause noise. Drums from Rockauto are reasonably priced
@@thewalkingrob8840 Backing up or using the handbrake does not make the auto adjuster work. Applying the foot brake does. However, I'm not convinced that the auto adjusters work. I usually have to adjust the gap by hand. This video is for a corolla, but the brakes work the same way ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hzZ7qfZ4u8U.html
Great! It is a good way to balance a wheel - provided the hub spins easily. No need to worry about where the wheel CG is located - except for placement of weights. I ended up with a slightly different method, as my preferred method, which works on multiple pilots and stud patterns. Shows up in this video, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WgjNO2gt3xg.html
Thanks for the comment...Yes you can But as I found out when changing the base materials from soft to hard, the harder the Base and ball materials the better. Which is why I ended up using a 2.5 inch steel ball on a steel plate (+hub centric rings when needed). In the text under this video there is a link to Kia soul tire change. It shows almost everything I've learned during this long learning experience.
I have a 2016 xsr900 which doesn’t have the diagnostic mode. How much do you think I should rotate the APS counterclockwise to achieve the same result? I was reading it should be very minimal, like 1/16th of an inch.
That is inconvenient. At 2:47 in the video, just to the right of where it says "Mirror View", you can see the reflected alignment mark in the mirror, which is quite well hidden otherwise. Hopefully your XSR has that. 2:55 is a good time index too. The paint mark is quite wide and it has moved about 1/2 the width of the thin part of the mark. You can overdo the turning and to be honest, I was watching the numbers on the speedo, not the mark when turning it. Best bet if you don't have a mark, is to scribe one at the starting position and make movements relative to that mark. At least you should be able to return it to the stock position if it starts doing silly things. Good luck
nice Duckbill bar. BTW, to get the first bead on ( at 8:00) your best bet is to put the rim on the ground, position the tyre on, and then stand on it. Moving up and down ny bending your knees usually gets the bead on.
Thanks... The bar is cheap to make too. One of the problems I have is, I've had a knee replacement (why I'm wearing knee pads) It didn't turn out so well, so doing stuff on the floor is out for me. I have seen the "walking on the tire method" in video's, but if it suddenly pops on - like it did in the video, that would be me going for a tumble. I could have put the tool bar in as well, but sometimes the height of the wood hits the second bead, so the tire lever helps. Here I am playing with a silverado 1500 tire. It wouldn't push on either. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gGv5MUxbQ3c.html
Good luck. We got stuck behind a truck hauling a flatbed with quite a few of those giant 1000lb open bags of sand on the back. It was a sand storm. Probably peeled paint off as well.
Well, apparently it is meant to flutter. (Tech answer) Mikuni drilled a couple of big holes in the slide base allowing the vacuum above the diaphragm to build and drop quickly. Some people have done something like this on other carbs as a tuning mod, but Mikuni did it on this one as standard. The result is... The slide flutters like mad at any speed above idle. This causes the needle to rise and fall rapidly thru the needle jet and surprise surprise, wears out the needle jet. They may look round, but they are too big and drown the engine with fuel. There are no more original parts left to be had, so I installed a jet kit from Dynojet. This seemed to fix the over rich fueling issue, but then I discovered another issue with the choke valves not seating properly... Oh I never posted that discovery and fix. Now it's just too hot to go test it here in PHX. I did one run after the choke fix and it seems a bit better. There is some hope.
Very cool setup! I thought about using wood for the duck bill mod as I've not yet tried my hand at welding, but didn't know how it would hold up - thus, leading to my purchase of the attachment I use. Looks like it'd do just fine based on your design here. Also, very interesting idea for the wheel balancer - I'll have to think on that more for my next tire change. I need to get a good laser level anyway for other projects. Anything to find an excuse to get another tool, hah!
With the wooden arm + duckbill tool, there is a slight overturning moment (torque) when running the duckbill around the rim. Your setup with the "lucid autoworks" style design eliminates that moment, so stick with it. I was going for something cheap that anyone with basic woodworking tools could make. I already had the screws, glue and saws, so the only expense was the duckbill and a 2x4. The duckbill slides nicely around alloy rims without scratching too. The laser wheel balancer is my preferred method now, although I can break out a vertical balancer if the hub fits the wheel. You could use the "self levelling laser" on tires in addition to the bubble balancer. Just need a tripod to go with it. The laser is really good at throwing a level line. I think it was designed for people installing wallboard and the like. It beeps when it is outside it's level tolerance zone. I put links into the text under this video if you are interested
I did catch a previous sunset launch from a park, so no trees. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mYXjolX71uk.html Took me while to realize that the gap in the vapor trail was the end of the booster stage and the start of the second stage. This one catches the booster entry burn at about 6:03. The landing burn would be over the horizon. It's amazing how big the exhaust plume is for being 500 miles away
They are??? Good for those people!!! 'cos it works 😁😁😁 and I don't have to go to a tire dealer. I switched the 80mm Crystal ball for a 2.5 inch steel ball with a few plastic hub centric rings and I can do many different wheel hubs now. Corolla to Silverado 1500. Now where is that crystal ball. The feng shui seems to be off a little...
This is my preferred method for wheel balancing now. The 2 1/2 inch steel ball along with hub centric rings is able to cover most of the hub sizes. There are cases where the wheel spokes / hub pilot are closer to the center, they will likely be unstable. Then I would use a vertical method like this one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-du5cTMqpIhY.html Since then, I've heard that trailer hubs don't have grease seals, so they should work with no mods. I have not tried to find one.
Yes it can. I ended up using a steel electrical cover plate along with a steel ball as they are much less likely to break with heavy tires. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gGv5MUxbQ3c.html Silverado 1500 tires 75 lbs It is important for the surface to be FLAT and LEVEL. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WgjNO2gt3xg.html
Just checked and it's 1/2" ID Vinyl. Probably got it from Ace Hardware. They have rolls on the wall and you can buy it by the foot. I see they changed the funnel design, mine has a cap to keep dust out of the top when in storage.
@@richbinaz Thanks! Just got some. Weirdly that funnel is only $7 at oreillys or autozone but $12+ on amazon, so just went to the physical store. Another nice thing I just noticed is that it has a metal screen/filter inside it. I have accidentally seen little bits of debris or even a leaf get kicked up and fall into my funnels before, so that'll help.
Excellent video how much antifreeze did you end up using ? Just wondering how much should I expect to put into the radiator? Should 1 container be enough to fill the reservoir and the radiator or 2. Thanks much.
@@JoseRivera-jw2uj I don't remember the exact amount, sorry. Probably around 1 gallon. I did get the Toyota concentrate and split it 50/50 with distilled water. I keep the old 50/50 bottle around for just such a purpose.
@@JoseRivera-jw2uj Just spotted this video - This guy had a hose failure at 250K & 15-20 years ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UOR2n0fN0G8.html
its your clutch basket bushings mine did the exact same the bushings shrink with the heat and oil over time. if you type in youtube tracer 900 noisey clutch he shows you the cause of it and how to fix it without buyin a new clutch basket / its well worth it. the replacement rubber bushing i bought from hinson. part number cu216 mt 09
Thanks for the info. It has made this noise since day 1 and I'm kind of used to it. Changing the rubber dampers over looks tricky and I don't have the machine tools to do it properly, so I'll just put up with it.
Thank you. It has been a long learning curve and I am actually doing 2 tires today for a Kia Soul. I will try to video everything, capture tips and keep it short (hard). Current best balancing video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JvN4i-qJqMs.html Google translate: Mulțumesc. A fost o curbă lungă de învățare și de fapt fac 2 anvelope astăzi pentru o Kia Soul. Voi încerca să filmez totul, să surprind sfaturi și să o fac scurt (greu). Cel mai bun videoclip actual de echilibrare
@@johndowe6161 I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!
I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!
Yep. Have to figure out how to drain the tank first. Only worked on gravity tanks before... The 1991 Suzuki I have, has a fuel gauge that has never failed - similar float system - just no pump.
I think a change was made to the transmission to add a launch gear some time around the 2018 model year??? This really applies only to the K313 transmission. You most likely have a K120 transmission. From what I can tell, you can only do a drain and fill on that one. No sump pan, it's all cast. Here's a video I found - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZUPyr_JrzSo.html
This one isn't... But I have had one park in front of my driveway and it took 2 weeks to contact someone and get a reply, after I had to search for a phone number on-line. The car rolled off with no warning in about 15 minutes, but If I needed to get a car out... how could I get it moved?? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-St9p4qoJxc0.html Best thing is to print a phone number on the car so that I can contact someone immediately to tell them to move it. It could be that fire/ambulance/police need it moved... but there is no way to contact them.
I got the 80mm glass ball on amazon, but i found out it was to big for the alloy wheel I tried to balance at the end of the video. I ended up getting a 2 1/2 inch steel ball from amazon, which does a better job, specially coupled with a simple steel plate I picked up from home depot. Try this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JvN4i-qJqMs.html There is one downside of the steel ball in that it doesn't fit some of the larger wheels with bigger pilots. To solve that issue, I got some plastic centric rings and was able to use them on a CX5, Kia soul and even 2 together on a Silverado 1500. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gGv5MUxbQ3c.html The centric rings I got were 67mm to 60mm & 78mm to 67.1mm
They were successful and I didn't have to wait 100 years (century plant) for the next flowering, only 7 years. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nrZVDWxEfBc.html Planting them in the ground is the best solution, it allows the hundreds of fine roots to spread out. I have one in a 12" pot that is root bound and just not doing well and probably won't flower. Here's a short video of how I planted one of the bulbils this February ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vfckb6jacEs.html It's actually going into the same spot as a previous one. It's on a drip emitter for watering, so probably getting too much water, but it works. Had one in the front garden that got attacked by a nasty weevil. Had to cut it down early and get rid of it.
I'm not sure if I am understanding you correctly, but this is what I understood and please tell me if I am wrong. To get the correct quantity of fluid inside, we need to do step 11 and 12. Once the D disappears, I shift to park, and wait until it it gives me a solid D. Once that happens, I quickly jump out of my vehicle, and unplug the drain, and let the excess fluid flow out, and once it's almost over, I screw the drain plug back, and whatever fluid is left inside is the correct amount? Let me know if that is correct. Also, I'm concerned that while I go under the vehicle to remove the drain plug, what if it starts flashing D? There won't be any way for me to know? Do I have to be quick to exit my vehicle and drain the excess oil?
Thank you for reading the steps - few do 😸 Almost there - here's a summary written slightly differently... You have the car level within 1 degree... pan back on... level straw in... drain plug in finger tight. You refill the trans with a little bit more FE oil than you measured coming out. (say ~5 qts) You start the car in maintenance mode (steps 11 & 12) The "D" should disappear when the oil is below temp (<35°C) NOW is the time to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain out the excess. Leave it out while you get back to see the dashboard. As soon as the "D" appears, go back under and put the drain plug in. That accounts for any expansion of the oil while the transmission heats up. You now have the correct level and can torque up the drain bolt The D stays on for a 10°C span before it starts to flash (>45°C), so the 1 minute it takes to get back under the car, put the drain plug in and tighten it a little, will fall easily in that time span. This does work - you are almost there! Yes I had to think it thru several times before committing and doing it.
@@richbinaz Hey man, thanks for all the info but I'm just a bit confused. If the D disappears, and thus the oil is below required temp, aren't you supposed to wait until the D is solid before removing the drain plug? Those instructions say to remove it when the D disappears (right away). Most other guides I've read and the Car Care Nut's videos say to ONLY REMOVE the drain plug bolt once the D is solid.
After checking in the service manual, it appears that the flashing fuel gauge means the sending unit has failed somehow and I should be replacing the whole fuel pump unit in the tank. I plan to check the electrical connections first, then see if the sender can be fixed.
It works on most of the larger chips, but eventually the smaller sand sized chips that aren't practical to fill, end up covering the windscreen. Then you just wait for the giant rock to hit the glass.
Haha yup I hear you but I am just staying ahead of the game so none of my very small chips don’t spread or become weaker with the continuous usage of heat and ac
5 gram, or 1/4 oz in my case, is more than good enough for the speeds I'm comfortable with. There is a tollway in Oklahoma with an 85mph speed limit and the tires are smooth as silk at that speed. I now just use the sticky weights too, so I can put them in the wheel CG plane. That avoids dynamic vibration issues.
I think it was me who messaged you, i forgot to make my video public, so i just did it now. I used the same method again today with success, i changed my tyre and didnt bother to balance which caused an annoying wobble over 60mph. I use hard ABS sheet, a ceramic tile or mirror would be a good option.
Yes, great video! Got me inspired, thank you! There were a few problems I came across that I very slowly solved... 1. The ball and the resting surface have to be fairly hard - Now I have a steel ball and plate 2. The CG of the wheel/tire assy must be below the CG of the ball - For stability 3. The resting surface has to be level, to eliminate induced errors 4. For large wheel pilots, use hub centric ring(s) to reduce the pilot down to suit the ball size. The useless bubble balancer is now a paper weight in the shed. The largest tires I have done now were on a GM silverado truck. My sons father in law was complaining the wheel was bouncing up and down at 60mph - so I did a check balance when I took it off. It was way out. previously balanced by a large chain store over here (Discount tire) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gGv5MUxbQ3c.html I had trouble getting the new tire beads to seat, so I forgot to record the balance with new tires on. But the laser balancing worked great. No complaints at freeway/motorway speeds. Saw this later on, after finally getting the tires on. I thought there must be an easier and cheaper way ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cHuyseqOUHw.html I have small inner tubes ready and waiting.
