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I worked in a part 145 engine shop. Tore down over 100 engines, some had rods thrown through cases, many prop strikes, etc Make sure to use compressed air to blow out oil holes in pushrods, they’re often plugged with sludge and starve corresponding rocker shaft of oil A&P/IA
I guess this is a typical cause of full power on cold engine! Consider the first 40 sec there is no lubrification in the valve lifter channels in the upper and outer part. Mike Bush teaches one start < 5° Celsius is 500hour airborne! If oil is warmer than 60° no metal part is touching!
I know this is a older video but first time for me as a a&p who has overhauled many of these Lycoming engines this is the second video I have watched case damage inflicted by improperly separating the case . Read the manual there is a tool to press it apart using wedges will damage the case lucky it was a easy one to get apart . Huge mis information on this teardown .
It most likely was a human induced failure. The lifters used there are solid lifters not hydraulic. Therefore they do not automatically adjust the valve clearance. So if they are not installed with the proper clearance they can have excess load placed on them by the camshaft. Causing stresses inside the lifter. Engines because they are old dont just fail. they technology in these engines are 50s and 60s.
is there a workshop in usa that offers engine owner to overhaul his or her engine and thereafter getting certificate to legally do such overhaul back home ..for me in KL,Malaysia? thx
I am an audio engineer. I can edit the audio of your future videos, and I have never offered that to anyone else. lol.. but you certainly remind me of a younger version of myself and I really did like this video a lot. By the way, I would not buy half of a case for this repair. I would definitely buy both halves because the bearings need to be exactly married and I just wouldn’t trust it. I have never messed with airplane engines before but I have overhauled car engines and I’m just starting to mess with airplanes now. Looking forward to more aircraft Content. Good luck!
My heart skipped a few beats when he removed one half of the crankcase and left the other half unsupported. I could imagine it flopping on the floor with a loud, expensive clang. My old boss would have my guts for that. For starters,
As a backyarder that's been building and tuning engines for 40 years, it never ceases to amaze me how an engine can find a way to destroy itself. I see a solid steel lifter that is supposed to be only under compressive load, have so much side load that it breaks through the case and snaps off. Mind blowing for such a relatively low revving engine.
The amount of dirt in that thing I'm not surprised , I would say the lifter seized and then the cam pushed it any way it could, being old if it had some play in it then it may have locked sideways . But this could be a lubrication issue that had it run a little dry in that part . Chuck bottle of lifter turn up in it It'll be fine.
Thank you for doing this video. I fly an RV9A with this kind of engine, i understand the stick drawing of how an engine works but , seeing you take it apart was really an interesting visualization. Also the casing failing with the lifter that is pretty spooky , did you say how many hours?
I never knew why they did not make these engines water cooled. I look back at my Volks Beetle with that air cooled engine. I overhauled that thing 3 times and I am sure it was because of the heat from being air cooled that killed it.
Instead of TBO - i have seen good evidence for aero engine, oil sample/trend analysis and on condition OH only - most issues happen RIGHT after OH as well.
The horizontally opposed aircraft piston engine is long overdue for reengineering. The heavy rotating mass, torsional flex, ancient aluminum and iron alloys utilized, harmonic resonance, and crank case reinforcement, all need a rethink.
The comment has nothing to do with cost. Inexpensive, or not, Rotax engines use pistons. Read the original comment. My comment still stands. Silly boy.
You should not remove the cylinders that way, always try using a closed wrench (star shaped) first, and remove the pistons immediately when you take off a cylinder, loose pistons can damage the crankcase. Also the recommended order if you are disassembling the engine is to start with the oil sump then accessory housing and only in the end remove the cylinders.
I was cringing the whole time those pistons were just sitting there waiting to hit a ring on the case! I didn't see the Lycoming Overhaul manual at all during the video... that might have helped him with the correct order of disassembly and the proper names for major parts like the accessory case and the oil sump.
