Hey have you figured what the issue is? Mine just started doing this. Used to do it only on cold starts then goes away when warmed up but now it’s always there and goes away when I rev it.
Did you ever find out what the issue was? Mine started to have the same issue. On cold starts it’s dead quiet then 30 seconds later it starts knocking and is more audible from underneath. I checked and tightened my flex plate bolts which I felt did quiet it down but the sound is still there. The sound sort of disappears if I give it throttle. After it’s been driven awhile and the vehicle is fully warmed up the sound is gone but it’s definitely knocking on cold starts because it idles rough when the sound is present.
Sounds EXACTLY like what mine is doing. So far, I haven't found the problem. I'm leaning towards piston slap, which tons of other TJ owners have said they have had for 200k+ miles with no problems. I did put a can of Engine Restorer in with my last oil change, which I don't normally do but thought I would try, and I was AMAZED at how much quieter and smoother the engine ran! I'm not a fan of additives really, but I was seriously blown away by the change in the sound with this stuff.
@@ProVisionColor wait so you’re telling me till this day it still does it and you haven’t had an issue or found the caused? If so I think that’s good news and makes me sleep a little better at night because it sounds just like yours and it doesn’t sound good at all. I’m gonna have to try the engine restore. Do you put it right before an oil change or you put it with a fresh oil change?
@@ProVisionColor hey I bought the can of Engine Restore today and it got rid of the knock. Even after work when I did a cold start there were no ticks or sound. This is the first time since I’ve owned it it didn’t make a sound on a cold start. I’m a little concerned now since this proves that it is an internal issue with me engine. Was it a temporary fix? Did the sound ever return?
Hmmm. It would be really tight. It’s hidden back up in there behind the muffler and the heat shield. I didn’t try to get at it without removing things first, so I can’t say for certain. If you were going to try, I would definitely recommend really getting the car up off the ground so you have room to maneuver. Get it up on a lift if you can. For me, it was just too tight of a space to work in. If you could get it up high enough, you might be able to get it out, but I’ve never seen anyone do it that way. Sorry.
@@ProVisionColor mine is a 2013 xc70 and I lifted it up pretty high last night and took the three screws out and pump would come right out. Only issue for me is I had to break the OEM Oetiker clamps and not sure I will be able to replace them with the special clamp pliers as the clamps and hoses have tight access. Thanks for the video.
@@pgreenx Oh nice! Well done! That's great to know. It would save a ton of time to not have to drop the exhaust and the heat shield. Thanks for letting us know!
I’ve been having this issue with my 4.0 97 6cyl. Swapped transmissions and flex plate and torque converter and it was quite and then it started again. This time I’m just noticing that one motor mount looks way off center then the other and maybe the engine and trans are not perfectly aligned even though they are bolted together could that even be possible. ?
There are dowel pins connecting the transmission housing and engine block together so you cannot misaligned there. It is possible you have a bad motor mount and could replace it, but that is not likely to be the cause of this noise.
Same noise here in an 04 Grand Cherokee (4.0). Same thing, non-existent when cold, noise starts when the engine starts to warm up (oil gets thinner) and then "almost" goes away at operating temp. did you ever identify exactly what the issue was?
Sadly, not yet. It seems like it’s a way more common problem than I thought. With the way it seems to react to oil viscosity and engine temp, a lot of people are leaning towards a lifter issue. You can check out the thread over on wranglertjforum.com about the noise. It’s amazing. One guy solved his issue. Pretty sure he replaced the pistons and rocker arms (piston slap).
@@MrTwitch37 Not yet, sorry. I did try a can of Engine Restorer with my last oil change, and that made a huge difference in the sound. I'm not a big fan of additives, but I thought I would try it, and I'm glad I did!
Dang it is? Mine is doing the same thing I took it to a mechanic and they think it's the rod bearings. How many miles have you driven yours?? Has it gotten worse over the years?@@ProVisionColor
@@efraimperez2726 I checked the main and rod bearings on mine, and they were all in spec, so I’m pretty sure mine is piston slap. I only drive it around town, so it only gets a thousand miles a year. I just tried some Engine Restorer with my last oil change and it is amazing how much quieter it is now. I’m not recommending using that, because every additive has its down sides, but I thought I would try it and see what happened.
4.7 magnum making similar noise. Dropped inspection plate tonight and found cracked flywheel. With the inspection plate off it was loud and very clear that was where the noise was coming. from
Ah! Cracked fly wheel huh? Glad you found the problem! I'm not ruling out a cracked torque converter on mine (it's an automatic), but I can't see any cracks at all on the front side of the disc. I would have to pull the entire transmission to inspect it, and I'm not sure I want to do that. I'm leaning more towards piston slap for mine, or maybe a stuck lifter.
Good question. I don't have much experience with the Baltoro, but from what I can tell they are similar, with the Baltoro having a few more features (like an included day pack and suspension specifically designed for heavy loads). To me, the Baltoro is more appropriate for long haul trips where you are going to be carrying a ton of gear for a long time. The Zulu is not going to have quite as many extras as the Baltoro, but it's lighter and would make more sense for both short and long trips. The Zulu is also less expensive, which is great. Basically, I feel like the Baltoro makes more sense for people who are doing serious long-term trips, but it would be overkill for most people where the extra weight wouldn't make sense. The Zulu is a sturdy pack at a cheaper price that works for overnighters through weeklong trips. Both great packs, I just think the Baltoro is more of a specialized pack, whereas the Zulu is a little more universal.
Had a 92 Cherokee with the 4.0 making the exact same noise come to find out one of the converter bolts had backed out and was tapping the back of the block easy fix
Most likely it's the wrist pins that's causing the bottom end noise, so might as well change the pistons if it comes to that. Take it to a good shop that'll do a good job in changing the wrist pins cause you wouldn't want that noise to start up right after a rebuild. Maybe it's common for these jeeps to have noisy wrist pins, or bottom end cause most mechanics have said that they've never heard a quite 4.0...as long as you don't hear a loud knocking throughout, and the diesel like noise could be from your lifters adjusting from not running with oil for a while.
The manifolds are notorious for cracking and that can also generate some ticking noise. I believe aftermarket replacement is the fix in that case. Factory OPDM can also make some noise, crown makes one with the extra oil passage to help prevent the squeal of death the oem ones get that can destroy your cam gear if left to long.
I had considered a cracked manifold a few years ago, and that may still be the case. Know any way to check and see if a manifold is cracked without taking it off the engine?
The knock can be the piston slapping the bore in a lot of cases, I've seen several videos where the pistons are shown to be the weak point (they crack and will eventually make piston mcnuggets in the oil pan) and considered an inevitable failure over time. Zinc oils seem to help prevent this but if it stops at temp that could be the culprit.
That's what I'm leaning towards. Piston slap seems to be the most likely culprit, especially after talking to the crew over at wranglertjforum.com. There's a thread there about the issue that has a ton of good info from people who have torn their engines apart looking for this dang sound.
Zinc oil helped my engine a lot, didn't have a knock yet but flat tappet engines are meant to have zinc. It will cause the cat to get clogged faster depending on how much oil its burning. The engine runs smoother and should last longer without a rebuild if ya run it soon enough. Diesel oil seems to be the cheap option but there are several classic car oils, additives and I believe high mileage oil has some in it as well.
Thanks. I ran Rotella T6 in it for a while, hoping the zinc in it would help, but I didn't notice any change in the noise. I thought about using a zinc adaptive, but they were SO expensive I opted not to.
I was able to add a universal u bolt hanger to an avaliable threaded hole in the block (i think its different motor mount locations) to keep my manifold bolts from getting loose and the exhaust moving around that was causing some leaking.
Nice job - thanks for posting. I knocked this out in 45 minutes. A couple things... Bosch is the oem supplier for this component. As you mentioned, I believe your was changed because there weren't any hose clamps. I removed the original one from this car - Bosch with crimp type hose clamps. That was the other point - it should have clamps. Again, thanks for posting. It made my life easy. Cheers
Ah! Thanks Dave! That's great to know. I suspected there had to have been hose clamps there originally, it just doesn't make sense not to have them on such big hoses, so thanks for letting me know. Also good to know that Bosch is OEM for this! Glad it helped! Thanks for adding your comments so everyone else can know about the clamps now too!
Nope, not yet. I'm leaning towards the classic 4.0L piston slap issue. Check out the thread over at wranglertjforum.com, tons of info there. Just search for the thread by TheGoblin (that's me), and you will find pages and pages of helpful info from the folks there, even full engine tear-downs. Good luck!
Boox looks like cheap washed out 15 y old kindle, also the white screen on remarkable 2 looks so much better. Its the experience, having a good looking device. I own scribe, but still crave remarkable just because how well designed it is. :D They could simply replace the hardware in remarkable 2 to make it fresh.
I agree with you on the screen. The difference in the screen clarity and brightness (without a light) was extremely noticeable to me. I just couldn't use the Boox without the light turned on, whereas the brightness of the Remarkable was easy to read in almost every situation. Of course, the Remarkable has no option for a light so it doesn't work in dark environments (like reading on a plane at night), but I have only found that to be an issue a small handful of times. And I totally agree on the next Remarkable, lol. Just take what they have and put new guts inside! It's a beautiful machine! Thanks for your thoughts.
Remarkable charging subscriptions has caused me to turn my back on them. I have been looking for a device for a while, and I would have bought a Remarkable 2 if it wasn't for that. I have now just purchased a Boox Tab Mini C. Totally looking forward to it arriving in the mail in a couple days. Subscriptions for every little thing are cancerous and people need to stop allowing companies to get away with it.
Yeah, that's really the one big thing that drives me crazy about Remarkable. Paying for minimal storage is just ridiculous. Offering customers 5 gigs of free storage would cost Remarkable next to nothing, relatively speaking. All the other main manufacturers offer it.
The main reason I got the Boox Nova Air C was so I could use all my e-reader apps on one e-ink device. I got annoyed that I kept having to switch between Kindle and my iPad or Fire tablet to go from reading a Kindle book to a book on Scribd or Open Library or basically any other e-reading app. I find that the Air C's NeoReader does an OK-ish job with comic books in color (less eye strain is a plus). What surprised me was that NeoReader does a really good job when reading and annotating PDFs, using both highlights and handwritten or typed notes. The vertical split screen feature and the marker-like feel of writing on the Boox is great for me. The resolution and colors on the screen are of course not as great as LCD but I don't find them too bothersome since I'm familiar with e-ink (my first Kindle was 2nd gen and I don't remember how I ever survived reading on that thing without a frontlight LOL). Anyway I also think reMarkable is great (my brother has one, and the first time I saw an ad for it I got really excited.) but I think the fact that the Boox can do so many other things is what draws me to it. I no longer need multiple devices to consume content. Instead of needing an iPad, a (smaller) Fire tablet, a Kindle Paperwhite, and a laptop, I am now happy with using just the Boox and my laptop (plus my phone of course).
Thanks a ton for your thoughts on this. Perfect example of knowing what you want and need and making a choice based on that awareness. The Nova Air C really as a great tablet, I liked it a lot, it just didn't fit my use case, whereas the Remarkable did. I think the color screen is such a fantastic idea for annotating pdfs, and I'm glad to hear the Boox works well for you. I'm really hoping Remarkable can take the beautiful tablet they have created and make their next gen version a color screen. That would be fantastic. Thanks again for sharing your real-world thoughts!
We pulled the engine this morning and just started taking it apart piston skirt was in the oil pan. Going to take it all apart and send to machine shop. Rebuilding it!
@@pauljames5960 Oh dang! I'm sorry to hear that! I guess you at least know where your noise was coming from though, lol. All my pistons were intact when I pulled my pan. Good luck with the rebuild!
The boox looks like a cheap plastic device (even though it isn't), the remarkable looks so sleek with the magnetic case, the wrap around cover, the minimalist but clearly well thought out aesthetics, the texture on the screen. It's amazing a 3 year old tablet still doesn't really have a clear competitor, everything seems to be a bit worse than remarkable: scribe has a gap between the pencil and screen and is heftier, some are android so you lose the "focus on writing" benefit, others just don't give you that same feeling of wanting to pick up this beautifully crafted object and use it more - even if they are more practical. There's just something almost magical about this product.
You know? I totally agree with you. No matter which tablet I try, I just keep coming back to the Remarkable 2. As you said, the Remarkable is just slick. It looks and feels nicer than the rest. As far as competition goes, I would have to say that I like the Supernote as next best. It was really nice to write with, but there were just a few usability things that didn't work for me. I love the magnet pencil of the Remarkable, and while the pens of the Supernote are really nice, I didn't like the extra steps of having to remove the pen from the loop, take the lid off the pen, put the lid on the back of the pen, and then write. It's just too easy to grab the magnetic Remarkable pencil and get writing! That may be a small thing to many people, but when you take as many notes as I do, that extra time adds up. Also, I just didn't like the feel of the Supernote as much. The plastic is nice, just not as nice as the Remarkable's metal shell. I do think the Supernote is a better computer though. It's faster and has a few note-taking features that the Remarkable is lacking (table of contents!), but even with those few benefits, I still went with the Remarkable. :)
You asked why there is web browser in onyx? Because people would like to read content without lcd blue light flashing their eyes. I hope that is the future of screens in most devices🤓
Hi friend, were you able to find the solution? I have the same sound between the crankcase and torque converter, I rebuilt my 242 engine 2000km ago and the noise continues, it only makes the noise when idle and goes away when accelerating. Sorry for my English.
After watching this video i'll probably get the Boox. My two main use cases are reading manga (8 inch colour screen and Play Store to download manga apps) and light markup on textbooks (Boox seems to do this well enough) Thank you for the detailed comparison and being upfront about what you're preferences are.
Nice! It definitely sounds like that is the right choice for what you are wanting it for. Manga would be pretty boring on the Remarkable, lol. Good luck. I think you will love it.
I appreciate you doing a comparison video between the two devices. I agree with you that the two devices are aim at different audiences. The nova air c is better as a productivity tablet, while the remarkable is an amazing note-taking tablet. My main issue with your review has to do with the comparison of the pens. I agree with your comparison between the pens but you left out the fact that you have to pay extra to get the remarkable pen( between $79-129 according to the website) versus the pen that comes with the nova air c at no extra charge. You’re essentially comparing a premium pen you ordered from Amazon to the pen that your bank gives out for free. The Boox pen two pro that cost $79 is much better built and does have a much stronger magnet in it. It also has an eraser tool on the back end .I’ve used both boox pens and the difference is night and day. I like your video overall, but I feel that your pen comparison is very misleading and pointless if there is no acknowledgment that you paid extra for one pen and the other comes complimentary with the device.
Yeah, that's a good point about the pens. The Remarkable premium pen is expensive for sure. There's more to it than just just the pens though. The Nova Air C is a way more capable tablet, but that only matters if you actually need those features. The Remarkable 2 is a better writing experience, but that only matters if you mostly just want to write a lot. The point of my review is self awareness, it is to emphasize that buyers need to know what it is they want in a device before purchasing one. For me, the writing feel matters, and the Remarkable 2 is just better at it than the Nova Air C, and that's not just the pen. It's the screen feel, the screen brightness, etc. The Nova Air C is better at a lot of other things, it simply has more features. They aren't easily comparable, hence the point of my video: know what is important to you because that will help you in your buying choice. You could buy the premium Boox pen, but it still won't match the Remarkable writing feel because the feel is more than the pen. And you can download as many updates as Remarkable can release, but the Remarkable will still not feel like the Boox because it's more than just updates.
As I stated at the beginning of my comment, I agree with your overall review and your comments regarding the strengths and weaknesses of each device. I just don’t think it’s fair that your calling out for boox to do better with their pens when it is included with the device, but the remarkable pen that cost $119 more then the boox pen that you compared it with. Now can honestly tell me that it is a fair comparison?
@@rexincognito4638 Dude, what are you going on about? Did you not read my reply? Specifically the part where I said, "Yeah, that's a good point about the pens." But since you seem oddly focused on this, let's look at the actual facts and how they compare to your off-base comment: The Remarkable 2's basic pen is simply better than the Boox's basic pen: better feel and better magnets, and it only costs $378 for a brand new Remarkable 2 with basic pen. It's $399 for the Nova Air C on Amazon (where I bought it) with their basic pen "included," as you call it. The basic Boox package is MORE expensive than the basic Remarkable. Add the premium pen (Marker Plus) and it's only $428 for the Remarkable package. So a whopping $28 more? That's a whole lot different than the $119 you claim. $399 and $428 is a pretty comparable price range. So yeah, I DO think that is a fair comparison. Maybe you should actually be upset that Boox charges more for their basic setup and "includes" a crappy magnet setup with their pen (the pen itself is fine, it's just the magnet I have an issue with). So, it's probably more apropos to say that it's not fair that YOU are calling ME out when you haven't done your homework.
If you shine a super bright flash light, that may be normal. I do very early oil changes and you will see some fine glitter in oil with a very bright flash light.
That is great to hear! Thank you! This was happening with every oil change, and it just didn't seem right to me that it would be from my engine. I wasn't picking up anything with a magnet either. Thanks a ton!
Not yet, sorry man. I'm just living with it for now. Check out this thread over at wranglertjforum, tons of people working on this same issue, lots of great info here: wranglertjforum.com/threads/help-diagnosing-engine-knock.33602/
Still the same for me. Noise is still there, but I'm just living with it for now. Lots of folks with the same issue, but not very many answers. Quite a few have had the noise for 100k+ miles and never had any major problems. Check out this thread to see what others have done: ru-vid.com?event=comments&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbG8wNi1raGxnTnI2WVJkLXpTN3ZhNmFVS0xUUXxBQ3Jtc0tuYndnX0xVTENUcWlNSVMwd1R1LUNPeUxkeVNzUjg4OUZrc0pzSDdzS0VzbHB0VkhBb29RLWtWY2YzaE54WW5iVXhvTXhvVFdEbkE5aFZINXhNenBvdEEtSVg4eE9pXzBsMzZHc0Y4YlN1bXZnVi1law&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwranglertjforum.com%2Fthreads%2Fhelp-diagnosing-engine-knock.33602%2F&stzid=UgwDBMHmmXup8kKxnXV4AaABAg
@@ProVisionColor i bet the flex plate is cracked and cannot be seen from the inspection cover. Im abt to yank the tranny on my xj bc im so sick of this noise. Have had a new flex plate in the garage for like a year. And my noise is 100% coming from the bell housing.
@@alale923 Oh man! Please let me know what you find! I'm leaning towards piston slap, but it totally could be the flex plate. I just haven't wanted to pull the tranny.
@@coyoteduster8919 Nice. Could be any number of things then. Since metal becomes more flexible as it heats up, it still could be piston slap. That's what I'm leaning towards on mine. This piston slaps back and forth while it is cold, but once it heats up and forms better to the cylinder, the slapping clams down.
Hi there. Thank you so much for this review. I bought the same stethoscope and WOW! I like it quite a bit better than the Littmann Master Cardio. Question: Have you noticed that ADC tubing stays softer than Littmann's tubing? I feel like it does. Especially as someone who wears it around my neck most of the time. (I know body chemistry and skin oil has a lot to do with it but all the same...) Have you noticed this as well? I'm definitely an ADC guy now. FOR LIFE!!!
It's amazing, right? I love this scope and I'm super glad you are loving it too! Honestly, I haven't used a Littmann long enough to be able to compare the long-term wear of the rubber, sorry. But I'm with you, ADC guy for life!
my 2.5 94 wrangler has the exact same noise coming from the exact same area. I replaced all my lifters , pushrods and rockers and it didnt change it whatsoever.
Definitely sounds like flexplate rattle. Is it almost non existent when cold? the only real solid way to check and see if that's it is dropping the trans it cracks right around where center plate meets around bolt holes. Super cheap part though.
Sorry, not yet. Leaning towards piston slap. If you head over to wranglertjforum.com, and search the forum for a thread by The Goblin (that's me), you will find an amazing thread full of a ton of good info about this sound. People have even torn their engines apart and posted what they found. Super helpful. Check it out.
