I gave you a thumbs up, but there are two things that at least need to be addressed that are missing and/or incorrect. First thing, spray at the beginning the calipers with brake cleaner, and as you go along taking them apart. Have some cardboards under them to absorb the dirty asbestos that is going to drip down to the floor. The second thing, remove the brake reservoir cap, gave rags around it for any over spill. When pushing in the pistons, pressure will make the oil go back to the reservoir, and not as he says, by placing a C-clamp to prevent the other piston from going out. He is lucky no damage occur from a blown seal, line, etc. Just remove that cap, no need to clamp the other piston. And a fan, lot of ventilation, try not to breathe any of that dust, not healthy at all. Besides the above, it is a good video, I followed it to change mine. I also did the rears, recommend taking pictures as you go, the rears have these clips that if you don't pay attention, will be tricky to mount them back.
97-06 LS motor can be done with intake on, if you use a universal socket and extensions and small hands. But the Gen IV motor is ridiculous. I worked at a Chevy dealer 5 years, so removing the intake manifold is not scary for me. Much easier to just remove the intake manifold. You need a tool to remove the quick connect fuel line. The only real trick is completely removing the intake bolts. One is hard to see. The intake easily lifts up with the bolts out. But if the bolts stay in, getting it out from under the cowl is rough, due to the tight clearance. Then, the oil sending unit is super easy to remove, and so is the screen, with a curvy pick.
Hey MdzAutomotive - thanks for the excellent and timely video! I'm doing the very same thing tomorrow, so this gives me more confidence. Excellent video quality, showing all the necessary details close up with great lighting. Also appreciate your calm and thorough explanations ... easy to follow!! Two thumbs up!! Did you have to do anything special with adjusting the emergency brake pads? Thanks!
I did not do anything in particular with the e-brake pads. All I did was get a soft wire brush in there and loosen up some dirt, brake dust, and rust and spray it with brake parts cleaner. I did not have access to compressed air but if you do it wouldnt hurt to blow the debris away. Good luck with your project and im confident you will do an excellent job!🙂↕️
Thanks a bunch for your video. It was a lot of help. I was able to get mine done only removing the solenoid line. I used a sensor socket,swivel,a long extension with a socket wrench and a little help from a finger ratchet to hand tighten the sensor after I got it on. And for removing the filter I used a wood screw that I had laying around and it worked perfectly I had no issues getting that filter out. Thanks again
Brother thats a total wast of money, the 3UR-FE is port injected and the flow of fuel over the valves keeps everything clean, and as a result of that a catch can isn't really beneficial unless you environmentally worried about burning that oil. Every year we see completely stock 3UR-FE engines roll over 1 million miles without a catch can.
If you have a lot of miles do it the long way so you can change out the intake gaskets and valley pan gasket. It kills a bunch of jobs doing it the long way.
really good vid. schowing everything without a bunch of crappy music the way it should be. step-by-srep. they wanted $10 more for screen. I'm original owner 250,000 so know ioil changed as should. the socket $13 bucks. as you showed they're not that tight and install is only 15 ft.lbs. thanks for showing how to unhook holes for more room oh yeah has always and still does idle at 40 psi. 4.8l cast iron blocks are really great motors.
Im glad you liked it. And yea sometimes the neighbors play music and you can hear it in the background of some of my videos but I cant really do anything about that😅
I have watched several of these. What about tying a long piece of string to the oil pressure sensor and also to your flex adapter. Nothing wose than dropping the new part down in there somewhere lioosing your fkex drive or extension etc. You always take a razor knife to cut them loose after its safe to do so😮
Thanks for the heads up on the correct socket. I’m going to replace the oil pressure sensor on a 2007 suburban soon. I probably would have broken something before o figured out why one of my “regular’ sockets would fit.
Thanks for vid helped me find a good solution. The chinese ones work on the back and u should swap original from back out to the front and deploy chinese ones at the back worked for me today
I used a seat cushion from a travel trailer dinette seat. The black plastic cover is held on by one 8mm screw. It's a captive screw, so, it will not come completely out. It keeps you from losing it. Once removed, you pull the cover towards you to the front of the truck. It has two tabs that hold it at the back and the screw in the front top. Then I put the cushion over the intake manifold. I used a step stool and got myself pulled all the way towards the firewall and laid on it. You need to get as far as possible to be able to reach it easily. It's not bad this way. Laying across the engine. I cleaned as much dirt around the sensor as possible before removal. This way when installing the new one you don't get dirt in the open hole. The best tool for the long sensors like my 2001 3500 dually 8.1liter uses, is to spend the $47-$50 at Harbor Freight Tools and get their oxygen sensor tool kit. It has 2 sockets that fit the long GM sensors. It makes life so much easier. One socket is 1-1/16" and the other is 27mm which is pretty much the same exact size. The sockets like the one in this video won't work on the long sensor. The long sensor has only one wire pin connection it uses the engine block ground for the other connection. With that said, you don't want to use Teflon tape on the threads or you'll insulate the electrical connection and won't have continuity. It will be like the sensor isn't plugged in. The new sensor has some red pipe dope on the threads. I don't think it needs a crush washer, as I didn't have one on the old one and the new part didn't come with one. The threads appear to be tapered pipe threads and I think are metric threads.
It did for me because I upgraded to the z71 coils as well as 1/2" spacers. If you get the same coils and no spacers you will maintain the same ride height..
It does not😪 I made my mount out of a small piece of aluminum sheet metal and bent it 90degrees and drilled some holes and mounted it how you saw in the video. Universal oil catch can discount: addw1.refr.cc/mendez
The problem with those "cold air intake" filter assembly's is that the filter is not sealed off from the hot air under the hood. It has to be sealed off completely to the cold ram air like the stock box is. It makes a big difference. On "LSXMATT" RU-vid site he shows how he built his to have the k&N filter and a intake tube but still have the filter box sealed to the ram cold air source so no hot air from under hood gets in.
