I review micro four thirds cameras, lenses, and portable peripherals with a focus on video features for sports videography, live streaming sports, and sport photography. I share my experiences and tips of using various MFT cameras and effective practical equipment for sport videography as a sole operator using m43 gear.
I just picked up a Sandisk 512GB Extreme card for my Sony Xperia 1V, a test with CPDT Benchmark resulted with: Seq write 31.2 MB/s Seq read 43.8 MB/s Rand write 1.6 MB/s Rand read 4.6 MB/s I'm curious what your results are as I have read Sony caps the speed.
The eyelets on my GH6 allow it to be more securely attached to my camera cage. I really like the CF Express slot. I have a 2 TB card which allows me to record 5.7 K ProRes internally in addition to the 4 K recording on my Ninja V. I did try the external recording via USB but I abandoned that because I do a lot of long recordings and I need the USB-C port to deliver power. I have noticed that, as you said, the dial on the top right can easily be bumped.
@@Sharif_FUNCOLOGY I think you need to access NDI via the Ethernet port as opposed to HDMI. So you need to connect the Zowiebox to an Ethernet cable then access its NDI functions that way.
at 15:38 there is one solution to this, get a sirui monopod, they have a qr release on the feet, so acting as a tabletop tripod to, and the fixing is 3/8 a better connection than an adaptor to 1/4, and for use on a Panasonic GH5 or Sony A7 series mirrorless setup, don't need anything more sturdy, as this is most likely what small rig made it for, or for Olympus and other micro 4/3rd cameras, so no need for counterbalance, just a reasonable drag.
@@RadCameraMan not the P 424, that was the older version, has a ball head on the legs, but is a different style, has a cone collar to lock it straight, what you want is the SVM 145 or SVM 165 they have the sliding collar, and the top plate collet system I was describing, with the P424 style it does some of this, but was a pioneer at it, the first footed monopod, the head comes off, but is a special socket, not a top plate 3/8" thread.
@@RadCameraMan I’m shooting with Osmo pocket ! But now I’m looking forward to get a gh6 or 7 . For my documentary production! Are you selling second hand cameras?
GH5 and GH6 here. Nice comparison you did. I hope GH6 gets 32-bit floating point audio with the XLR2 compatibility as well as additional features via firmware updates. Thank you.
@@Filmmaker809 do you know if the audio is digitised inside the DWM-XLR2 and then transferred to the camera or does the audio come in to the camera from the hotshoe as an analog signal?
@@RadCameraMan I don't know mate. I just know someone told me its in the hardware of ther GH7, so sadly GH5 & GH5s miss out on 32bit float audio. I hope its not true!
Yeah the new autofocus system is actually a huge deal. Autofocus on the GH6 was super bad, I don’t know why the guy said it’s just a small update. The autofocus was the most crippling aspect of the GH6
I think a lot of Panasonic Lumix users tend to use manual focus with mechanical manual focus cinema lenses and those who use single auto-focus won't be affected of the problems with the lack of PDAF for continuous AF.
if the electricity shut down, and you reconnect the box, does it stream again automatically on youtube (rtmp), or, do you have to resart the stream on the box ? thank you
I checked this today and to my surprise if the electricity shut down, and you reconnect the box, it does stream again automatically on youtube (rtmp), so there is no need to restart the stream on the box. I think this is good because if you are powering it with a power bank and change the power bank then the streaming restarts automatically without having to connect to the device with a computer. In fact if you don't change your stream key on youtube then you never need to access the device again (after setting it up the first time) to start live streaming, it becomes plug and play to start the live-streaming. Keep in mind that there are two toggles on the RU-vid Live Stream interface for "Enable auto-start" and "Enable auto-stop" so make sure that "Enable auto-stop" settings on RU-vid is set to off if you don't want your stream to automatically stop when the box is disconnected temporarily. Out of curiosity, how do you intend to use this encoder?
There are 2 versions of the boxes "New Gen ZowieBox and ZowieBox" the New Gen is supposed to have better hardware and costs about 30 dollars more, I assume you did show the older Version ?
To my knowledge there is only one version of this device. Nevertheless, you can see the model name and part number in the video when I held up the sticker label details. So you should be able to verify which one it is. I don't know about the old one but this is the link to the one which I have: amzn.to/4aHDkfp Please let me know how I can check?
Thank you 👍 I also have separate videos for each of these videoheads but the information is repetitive, nevertheless I will leave a link to them in case it is useful: ru-vid.com/group/PL42hO7UHafKverdk2zvmjTySWxrJNp167
Please help me ! I have a Canon 50d. When I use it in manual mode with built-in flash, and a second lateral flash with umbrella, with optic trigger, the image is very dark. If I use built-in flash only, the image is normal. So, when work both flashes, the images are dark. I tried to set flash in second curtain, but without results. I can't understand what happen. Can you tell something ?
Is the camera in manual mode or is the flash in manual mode? If the camera and flash are in manual mode then you should be able to adjust the shutter speed and iso to make the picture bright.
@@RadCameraMan Is camera in manual mode. The flash with optical slave is simple, but years ago I tried this process with a Nikon 6006 (with film) and the images were normal. Also with Fuji finepix S5500, with the same simple flash, the photos were normal.
@simbad-4724 Obviously the camera expects more light than it is being provided with so one solution is to set both the camera and the flash output power manually. That way if you control the shutter speed and iso as well as the power output of the flash then it should be possible to adjust everything manually. If you want some aspects to remain on auto then you may need to adjust exposure compensation on the flash and on the camera because the camera does not have any control over the secondary flash which is being used so it cannot adjust itself to it. If you want me to provide exact step by step guide on the process, please let me know the exact settings you have for: the camera, its flash, and the external flash. I can then replicate the same settings and suggest a solution because without knowing the exact settings it is difficult to provide any help.
@@RadCameraMan Dear Sir, thank you very much for your availability. So, my camera is Canon 50D. I used manual mode for all. Manual focus to avoid preflash. Iso manual mode 200. Speed from 1/125, to 1/20. Aperture from 6.3, to 22. Built in flash with a piece aluminium paper forward to direct flash light toward the ceiling. Second flashes with optical slaves : Danubia FD 900 TT, Suntax, Metz mecablitz 28C-2, Multiblitz (german years 60) All these in manual mode. Sure, these are very old, but I repeat, years ago with Nikon 6006 film camera, I used these flashes, and the photos were good. With Canon I don't understand what happens. The second flashes firing before or after curtains aperture . I tried with many speeds and apertures, but without results. I don't know what to du more.
I mainly record video so I want the video features such as UVC and vertical video which exist in OM-5 as well as improvements to AF and stabilisation. What do you use GND for?
Hi, thanks for the helpful video. Do you know why the histogram on the GH6 always overloads? For me, the bars in the histogram are almost always at the top and the peaks extend beyond that. No matter what you set. Auto or manual - it is always the case that the bars go over the edge in the histogram
@@RadCameraMan Actually upwards. But today I realized that it must be my fault. It stayed well within the range in Auto mode today. But if I change the settings to manual, I always have the deflection at the top that would go even further than with clipping. even if I use the same settings as the camera in auto mode.
@@dre1z3hn The vertical orientation overflowing upwards indicates the quantity of a certain brightness level (color) in number of pixels, so it is fine for this to overflow. If the histogram overflows to the left or right, that is a problem and it means that part of the image are being blown out due to being too bright if it overflows to the right and shadows are being crushed into black if it overflows to the left. So the histogram overflowing upwards is fine, since it is only an indication of how much of a particular brightness level is in your photo. There is nothing wrong with this. Please let me know if I should provide more information or clarify further.
No, definitely not. To my knowledge there is no cage for the OM-5 so I am using an unbranded L-bracket which provides additional mounting holes on the left side for attaching a cold shoe and a grip: amzn.to/4bwfSTx
Thanks, here is a more in-depth video about the E-M5 III camera (in case it is useful) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4uMlapEaIAg.html
Thanks 👍 there is a more detailed video with the AC-5 adapter and the peculiarities around powering the E-M1 III and E-M1X (in case it is useful) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mbck9-qoiN8.html
I'm glad it was useful. In my opinion the E-M5 III is much better overall even though in some areas the E-M10 IV has superior features. In case you want more in-depth information. I have separate videos for each: E-M10 IV: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TKlZQdeysnI.html and the E-M5 III: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4uMlapEaIAg.html and some more comparisons: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WS8teL2Mtns.html
To each his own, I guess. I have the HLD-10 Grip and I like it. It makes balancing the bigger lenses much more comfortable. I will agree the grip on the EM1X was more comfortable. Just plug it in and it charges all the batteries and you are ready to go for a long time. Vertical subjects warrant vertical compositions and the grip makes this much easier.
What is your take on the HLD-10 in comparison to the previous generation HLD-9 grip in terms of ergonomics as well as its portrait grip? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OQe11HxQwAk.html
This is correct. I meant in order to charge the in camera battery externally, it can only be charged via usb since it cannot be physically accessed while the grip is attached.
Agreed, I don't know if you used the HLD-9 grip with previous Olympus cameras but I prefer that one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OQe11HxQwAk.html
I think the compromise on the ergonomics was too much to justify that advantage, although I mainly use smaller wide angle lenses for video recording, so my requirements are different but still in comparison to the previous HLD-9 grip, it doesn't have the same good ergonomics even for large lenses in my opinion: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Je6hF1CpLQ.html
How does the HLD-10 compare to the previous generation HLD-9 grip for vertical shooting for your work? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Je6hF1CpLQ.html
I recommend the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III. It is slightly bigger than the OM-5 but its battery lasts substantially longer and it can be used while plugged into USB-C power. In terms of lens, I recommend the Olympus M.Zuiko Pro 12-45mm F4. This lens covers the necessary range for taking photographs while travelling and it is one of the sharpest lenses of the M.Zuiko Pro series. It is also very small and light (7cm, 254g). The OM-5 is good but its battery runs out quickly and it cannot be used while plugged into USB. So you can charge the OM-5 with USB but you cannot use it at the same time - so either charge or use. Also, the USB port is Micro USB instead of USB-C so if you are travelling I think having a single USB-C cable and adapter is more convenient that carrying different cables for different devices. The E-M10 IV is also good but it is not as "pro" as the other two. So it lacks some features and the stabilisation is not as good as the others. But in terms of size and weight, this is the best Olympus camera.
@@RadCameraMan Thank you for your comprehensive recommendations regarding cameras and lenses. I had considered the OM-D E-M1 Mark III to be an excellent choice; however, unfortunately, it is no longer the latest generation and is difficult to purchase in my country. I may consider the OM-1 as an alternative to the OM-D E-M1 Mark III. Thank you, the Olympus M.Zuiko Pro 12-45mm F4 has been added to my lens wishlist. Also, I appreciate the clear comparison between the OM-5 and the E-M10 IV. The latter particularly impressed me with its tilting monitor, compact size, and lightweight design-it seems like a compact delight that I'm sure I will love. Thank you for your reliable advice on photography gear.
@@PoYinChang It might be worth having a look at the OM-1 videos to make sure none of its shortcomings are a deal breaker for you. ru-vid.com/group/PL42hO7UHafKteBUOYPEaHx-aCtCgk-lyu
Thanks for the info. You´re alright about those disadvantages even most of them aren´t affected me just because I don´t use video mode very often, for example. Anyway the OM System cameras are not professional cameras they´re just advanced toys for amateur photographers. I owned the EM1KII which I really enjoyed it a lot as a macro shooter, great colours, super high focus braketing speed thar was an excellent camera. Now with the OM1 and the 300mm+MC14 I´ve started with bird photography and as a walkn around camera is good enough but far far away for my old trusty Canon 5DMKII in terms of colours, noise etc. The noise on this camera is just terrible you only have to zoom in 100% and even with 400ISO and will see lot of noise like melted pixels, I just hated. The colours for me, like you said are not looking good even compared with the EM1MKII and 12 bits raw it´s just not enough. Lots of computational features and quite a few lenses a bit more lightweight but definitely NOT! Probably i´ll still using the OM1 only for macro but for other styles of shooting clearly not. Best all!!!!!!
The main reason I still use Olympus or OM System cameras is because of its video stabilisation for handheld moving shots otherwise I would just use the Panasonic Lumix GH6 or GH5 II which I use when I am using a tripod or monopod since those have worse stabilisation but better video features.
Canon has removed the 1.0.9 firmware download from their website for the 50D, any solutions? Cant find the firmware anywhere to download it, im currently on 1.0.7. Thanks!
I just checked and it is still available on the official website. Please let me know if the below link doesn't work for you www.canon.co.uk/support/consumer/products/cameras/eos/eos-50d.html?type=firmware
I started doing a weekly coverage of micro four thirds related news and streaming related news because I thought there was some interest, but if you think it is pointless I am more than happy to discontinue it or change the format or its content. Please let me know your suggestions because I don't want to waste my time and put in effort in creating these videos if they are pointless.
I enjoyed your video! I've used Panasonic MFT for 10 years. Last year I went pro with it and formed a business. I needed to buy 3 cameras recently. I never needed the GH6. I liked the G9 II but worried about long form event videos out in the sun, other than that the G9 II is amazing. I needed reliability. I had been using a GH5 II for 2 years. Anyways, I now own 3 GH5 II cameras. I saved money and got the 5 f/0.95 Voigtlander lenses, 10-25, 25-50, etc. Each camera has 2x 512GB Sandisk V30 cards (I don't need 4K All-I), that's 7 and a half hours in 4K24 LongGOP, and each is in a Zacuto GH5 cage. I love the GH5 II. I'd say for most, just buy the GH5 II, put more money into your lenses. And of course you can get the streaking to show up on a GH5 II or any CMOS based camera, but you have to have ridiculously bad settings like aiming at a light source with 12,800 ISO set, so for all practical purposes, the streaking isn't an issue on the GH5 II, that's another reason I went with it. Love the GH6 though, it's just not for an every day videographer. Looking forward to seeing a GH6 II honestly, with the improvements the G9 II brought and maybe a little more.
I agree with your take 100%. The additonal money is better spent on lenses etc. By the way how is the Zacuto cage for the GH5 II. I am considering buying a cage and there are a few options each of which have some advantages and disadvantages. Anything you can share about this cage is appreciated.
@@RadCameraMan My setup on the cage is very simple. I mainly just use it to mount one of those cheap 5 inch external monitors (PortKeys PT6) via Ulanzi Falcam F22 monitor mount. The main reason I have the Zacuto cages is their quality construction and screws. Smallrig cages sometimes loosen up and you have to re tighten them. Once you put the Zacuto cage on, it's not going to loosen up. I simply like the Zacuto brand, I'm not saying it's "the best" cage or anything, though they tend to be among the most expensive. You can attach Falcam F22 top handle and side handle, which will be cheaper than the Zacuto accessories. Honestly, my cage setup is very simple. No follow focus (very annoying when trying to switch lenses). I just sometimes put an Azden SMX-30 mic (or the receiver for the DJI wireless mic) on the cold shoe of the cage, and on the other side, the monitor. That's about it, so these basic needs could be served by almost any cage. I just like Zacuto!
@@RadCameraMan Oh and the matte box I use is the Freewell Eiger with magnetic IR Cut ND filters (ND64, ND32, ND16, ND8, ND4). I stack up to two of these for 2-11 stops of ND. No need for rails or anything. It's a good system, I own one complete set for each camera along with the adapter rings for each lens. I used to own the PolarPro Basecamp with fixed NDs, but that system is expensive to own 3 of them and it will look funny and put some strain on the Leica 12-60, so I sold it. The Freewell Eiger is literally perfect, it's more in the MFT spirit of being smaller. I stopped using VNDs in 2019 due to polarization and the way they mess with colors, I'm over that. Fixed NDs require a little more work but keep your colors more consistent. Also, I don't use mist filters as threshold based glows in post can pretty much achieve the same thing with more control :)
@@BackusCreativeImaging Many thanks for talking through your setup. I will look up those peripherals as well to see if they suit my setup. My requirement for using a cage is to have additional mounting points on top for attaching microphones and a screen. In fact if I was using a camera such as the Sony FX3, I probably wouldn't even need a cage. I hope Panasonic creates a MFT camera with that form factor. I will probably post a video once I buy a cage for the GH5 II and rig up my camera.
@@RadCameraMan The cage does add some bulk, but you'll get used to it in time. I accept it. At first I was going to only get 2 cages and leave another camera bare but I want simplicity so got 3 cages, everything is the same. I also ditched my gimbal and bought the Devin Graham Signature Series Glidecam. It used to be $800 when it came out years ago, but is less than $400 now. Ideal lenses on that would be the Leica 9mm f/1.7, Voigtlander 10.5mm f/0.95, Leica 8-18mm, Laowa 6mm and/or maybe the 10-25mm f/1.7. Overall, the Glidecam is better than a gimbal for me. I've used Panasonic MFT exclusively for 10 years, I don't jump to other systems. I'd never use Sony. You can't remove internal noise reduction in cheaper Sony cameras to the level you can on Panasonic. The $25,000 Sony Burano allows for it but the $6,000+ A1 doesn't ... the GH5 does, from way back in 2017 and at a fraction of the cost. This forces people to use Apple ProRes on Sony for a proper noise profile ... LongGOP recording on Panasonic produces a decent noise profile (when noise is dialed down in camera) so Neat Video can grab onto it to gain another half stop or so in the shadows. I don't like EIS. Sony relies on EIS for smooth handheld footage, which means you can't have motion blur otherwise the electronic stabilization movements will be baked into the motion blur and will look bad. For smooth looking shots on Sony and the 180 degree shutter angle you will pretty much need a gimbal or another form of external stabilization. I'm handheld almost all the time on Panasonic. Panasonic lenses have minimal focus breathing, linear focusing is an option on GH5 II and newer cameras, better internal audio, shutter angle (combined with shutter priority and auto exposure lock it's great for run n gun with variable aperture zooms). Panasonic isn't perfect (HDMI output has more latency than Sony), but overall it's the lenses that matter. Panasonic MFT has plenty of quality options to choose from. If it wasn't for Panasonic, I'd have to settle with Sony and how bad that system is for proper video.
Great work! Thanks for the review. I have a question: do you know if the supersonic wave filter is activated by default or can it be done manually when you think it's needed?
It is activated by default automatically. There is no option to trigger it manually but since that means that it is happening regularly there won't be a need to trigger this manually.
Thanks for the video. Are you still using this camera, and how is the buffer in it? If you take quick successive shots is there any lag with the camera saving the pics to the card?
I still use the E-M10 IV and I find it to be fast enough when taking pictures in quick succession although I use the fastest V90 SD cards that I could find which are substantially more expensive than the older V30 cards even with a smaller capacity. So I am somewhat immune to any potential lag with writing because of the fast SD cards that I use. I think with any camera if the write speed appears to be slow, it is usually because of a slow memory card rather than the limitation of the camera buffer. So I haven't noticed any significant lag when taking pictures but if you are using slow SD cards then it will obviously be an issue. Sometimes when I create demo video for a camera I intentionally use a small and old SD card to highlight certain aspects such as the number of frames remaining or amount of video left in minutes. This is because when I use the larger faster SD cards the camera will not display numbers beyond 9999, so I cannot demonstrate what I intend. Hence if you see anywhere in any of my videos there appears to be a lag, pay attention to the remaining memory storage which you will see is a small number which indicates that I was intentionally using an old slow SD card. 07:13
@@RadCameraMan thank you so much for a very thorough response. It's much appreciated. Reason why I asked is I recently had a Fujifilm XT 30 mark II, and when I took a picture.,sometimes I would get "saving to card", and then you could take another pic...and I had a v90 in the camera. That really bugged me.
@@mden2490 oh yes, I can imagine that would become frustrating. With all Olympus cameras including the E-M10 IV, the worst case scenario is that the shooting speed will slow down once the buffer becomes full. So instead of shooting 15 frames per second, it will become a lower number but you can still hold down the shutter button and the camera will continue to take photos at a slower rate while in the background the camera continues to write the images to the SD card. Nevertheless with a V90 UHS-II SD card, I don't think you will ever encounter any issues.
@@RadCameraMan I wanted to give you and update....I purchased the Olympus E-M10 IV with the Panasonic Lumix 45-150HD lens and the pics are crisp, detailed. The 4/3 system offers the same picture quality as from other cameras I have had, like Sony and fujifilm.
Thank you for the news! I used to own Olympus E-M5 II and E-M1II and I now own OM-1. I have not noticed any issues with S-AF - the camera still focuses lighting fast even in a very dark environment. Naturally, you want some contrast in the spot you are trying to focus on. My understanding is that due to the dramatic increase in the count of focus points in OM-1, the single point covers a smaller portion of the sensor and the object and there may be less information available for the camera to focus on. If this is something users have been issues with, they can try using a bit bigger focus point.
There are two ways to do this. 1. Connect the camera to your laptop using a USB cable and copy the files across. 2. Take out the memory card from the camera and insert it into a memory card reader which is connected to your laptop (assuming you have a compatible memory card reader).
