Yeah, it's different. Wfc is based off of a quantum effect (collapsing based on observation). It _can_ produce more spatially coherent results at the expense of _potentially_ more complex constraints definitions.
have you seen this guy ? he made his crucibles out of Silicon Carbide with water glass. ru-vid.comHbK4c3SSyQs?si=vrkV9YUcI8qACS0l. Does this metod count as sintering? i want to try his method.
hey man, im currently doing an internship at a research company on a project about virtualfoundry's filamet. I mentioned your microwave experiments and now that has become my official auxilary goal, It's really interesting! I do have a slight question about general microwave sintering, do you often have trouble with hot spots? Because as far as i've seen your crucible apears to be stationary and the spinning part is crucial to something in a microwave warming evenly so im wondering if your results could improve if you somehow get the crucible to spin in there
Hey cool and good luck 👍 For the current microwaves I use part of the protocol is a manual rotation by a quarter turn throughout the cycle but I'm building out a new setup that will allow for the rotation if desired. The problem is thermal shock to the spinning tray causes it to blow up and the component that locks into the tray is made of plastic and melts. Not unsolvable by any means but tbh, I've gotten good results without having the const rotation so it hasn't been a huge priority of mine just yet. If you want to try it out a bare minimum setup could just be a layer of ceramic wool on the glass tray that the crucible can sit on
@mergeads well a full scale helmet would need a much larger crucible made and a lot more care in sintering (and a lot more filament). I'm not an expert in _old Templar helmets_ but.. asking chat gpt says they'd weigh about 2 to 3 kg's (for steel). So doing the conversions it'd probably weigh about 1.5 or so kg in titanium. The filament cost is about $830 per 0.5 kg for titanium, and assuming a near perfect process and set of tooling (custom crucible creation, consumables, power etc...) it'd probably cost _at least_ $3k to do it
sorry for the late reply during my last delivery I got stuck in hurricane Beryl yeah hey man I highly highly appreciate your help with all this stuff, your experiments, ..ah man, just imagine if you pull this off and get a workflow going for this kinda thing, literal level 4 body-armor for like 7.50$ per kilogram and literally all you need is a microwave and some metal flakes. Holy fuck
Really cool way of making a substance like that. Beautiful. I’ve been looking for a way to mix graphene into things for a kind of selenium-free solar cell I’ve been playing with that just uses conductive metal and graphite as its base. The semiconductor properties here may actually help
Add about 1% of aluminum or titanium powder to it then bake then microwave. The metal content helps to absorb the microwave energy better and allows the grains to grow togther. It worked rather well for making rocket nozzles for bigger hobby rockets.❤
Thanks for the great video! I wonder if a home-sintered brick could be used as a machine tool on a lathe or if the sintering just isn't strong enough? I'd be very interested to see what would happen if you ran your puck on a hardened steel file and how much the file and puck would get scratched.
wow holy shit you did it! I am so curious to how it stacks up hardness and strength and, ballistics-wise compared to mainstream industrial silicon-carbide! If this actually has vaguely professional-grade quality then you will've quite possibly revolutionized body-armor technology forever in a small obscure way. We're talking 150$ SiC ESAPI plates diy'd for like 7.50$ per kilogram (I did the math 😆). I mean, kinda far-fetched, but so was probably everything in the beginning ey? I find your work fascinating highball
@bearcatdog858 definitely need more tests and a good way to benchmark but I'm pretty happy with how things are looking 😄 Next steps I'll be adjusting some sinter cycle things to compare samples amongst each other. I don't have anything to really compare it to but if things start looking like _"it could stop a bullet_" I'll try to arrange some _testing_
Importantly it would offer weight savings over a standard SiC plate,. There are questions that must be asked as while true the graphitic content will reduce weight, it is unclear it can do so while simultaneously offering improved energy dispersion at the point of impact. The graphitic content is in non-oxidised non-functionalised state, sometimes tailoring the flakes by way of adding functional groups nets superior results albeit at increased cost.
@@Mr-Highball fascinating! Hey I could test em against up to 7.62x39 if you ever want, I could make some samples myself via your specifications or you could mail me some samples and I could take em out back with an ar15 and an sks n stuff. I think we'd want the samples to be at least 1 inch thick like most esapi plates though for an even comparison
It's interesting, the obvious application is body armour. When I tested an older version of the graphite in this video we managed to stop 7.62x51 FMJ with graphitic reinforced polyurethane but not convincingly so, since the round penned 20mm's into a 25mm thick plastic plate. It was much more comfortable with 5.56x45 and 5.45x39 rounds. In regards to a graphitic reinforced carbide form of armour then probably it could stop at least one tungsten core or tipped armoured piercing round, the trade-off is increased weight but that's the price you pay for being in such an horrendous threat environment.
What are you using for the arc sintering? What's the admix to make it a composite? It'd be nice to find out if this process can make a good ballistic hardface.
@sumguysr same microwaves for arc sintering but adding _arc media_ (ie. Flake metal foils / carbon / flux if any (in this case no flux)) It's SiC / AL / exfoliated graphite blend and yes the thought here was for ballistics if I could get some good results
@@Mr-Highball I wonder how that composite might change if you put it in a hydraulic press before you sinter it. The best vibration damping material developed right now is cement milled with exfoliated graphite then placed under 3000psi before it's impregnated with water. The exfoliated graphite forms a network of flexible graphite containing the cement crystals.
@sumguysr it would be interesting to compare, but I don't have access to one right now. I'm sure adding pressure would ultimately lead to a stronger part but for now I'll just have to see what's the _best I can get_ in my garage 😄
I want to make very specific sculpted 3D shapes from this material involving lots of curvatures and fine detail. Does the cintering process mess up fine detail on the part alittle bit?
@bringer-of-change the big thing to account for is shrinkage that occurs during sintering, but if that's done then no, the details should be preserved quite well
heeeeey 😆! I wouldn't happen ro have anything to do with this sudden silicon-carbide experiment for the firss time in multiple months afer like 4 hours after our conversation about it on reddit ey 😁? (I'm "farhead" or whatever it's called 😂)
@@Mr-Highball hey I finally got the time to watch the video, that's neat, if I'm understanding correctly you're using ice as part of a composite binder, wow imagine how cheap that'd be. Yeah I can't wait to see what kinda crazy shit you pull off with this stuff, like I said I was absolutely floored when I saw your videos of literally sintering silicon-carbide with a MICROWAVE 😂, people told me nothing but a 10,000$ refractory could do it
Really depends on the type of printer you're looking at getting. If you're going the _virtual foundry_ filament approach then a regular kiln would do (or if you're feeling adventurous) then a microwave would work. The regular kiln approach though is by far more approachable right now since it's very well documented by the vendor
This is just a demonstration part to let me Guage my success / failure. I'll be using these and test Cubes until I'm pretty happy and then go for a more functional test
Hey Ive had an idea for a while if you want to test it, basically weld a pouch ("spot" but in a line like the plastic bag sealers) out of stainless, and have an all steel valve that you can use to suck the air out in a vacuum chamber. if you seal the parts inside it then purge the pouch, you should totally avoid oxidation and allow a much cleaner sinter.
Howdy, thanks for the idea (and it sounds like it would work). The main issue is _life expectancy_ of the container. For lower temp sinters a stainless container would work a lot longer but I tried a similar approach where I placed a component, a sealable steel container (with lid) into a zip lock bag. Then, I flooded the bag with inert gas and sealed the bag. After some time of sitting, I sealed the part inside of the container _without_ opening the bag ensuring inert atmosphere is sealed within the container. When I was ready I transferred the container to the kiln and proceeded with sinter. This worked about 3 times until the container carberuized and blew a hole out the side 😅 I think including a sacrificial amount of carbon along side the co trainer in the kiln would perhaps have lengthened the life expectancy (to reduce oxidation on the container itself)
oh it would be disposable. stainless foil. it would be great if we could design a stainless vacuum-pressure valve that could survive sintering temps. the issue is that copper/brass gaskets would melt at temp
@sharxbyte 👍 Another thing I've been meaning to try but would require the brown to be removed from ballast, would be applying a layer of high temp stop paint to parts to prevent oxidation. I just always get a little uneasy when it comes to steps that involve handling / moving brown parts because I'd get sad if they crumble on me
So I'm using the term _pre-sinter_ for a secondary stage _after_ debind. * stage 1 - debind * stage 2 - pre-sinter gets up to sintering temp fairly rapidly and then brought down to ambient (in this case ~2hr cycle). Part is removed from ballast and cleaned up * stage 3 - arc sinter is a _very rapid_ stage in fresh ballast and using arc medium to form very high temp plasma (~6 minutes) The point of the pre-sinter (at least what my thought /observations) is to set the form and shape with _some_ strength to allow for cleanup and handling. Then, the arc sinter rapidly heats and densifies the part. All experimental, so totally subject to change, but this appears to be beneficial after my past tests
@@Mr-Highball Thanks for the response. Are you using traditional Kiln method for de-binding? I'm getting a kiln soon and will be using ceramic filamet around my bronze filamet to hold shape while sintering the bronze bellow the ceramic sinter temp hopefully without ballast.
@OMY005 np, and for the most part I am using a traditional kiln for the debind just becsuse it's a lot easier and hassle free. Debinding can be done in the microwave though in case others don't have a regular kiln
Thanks, the main reason is for safety due to the rapid heating (the glass below the crucible has a tendency to well... explode). I have a to-do to try and get the rotating glass insulated properly and working but there's another component that does the _spinning_ and it's made of plastic which melts really easily, so I'd need to probably print something out of glass or make an alumina version
This is amazing-- the world owes creators like you a huge amount! This is an amazing time for fabrication in general and I can't wait to see your progress
Thanks I'll look into it. Do you know if it's airtight once applied? Any coating I'd have to do would need to be done to the green part prior to debind
@@Mr-Highball I think most of their solvent based products would not be airtight, certainly their BN spray. I'm sure some of their binder products are. They have every imaginable combination, if you need something specific I'm sure they'll let you know pretty quickly in email.
hi, I want to make metal parts. but metal filament is too expensive for me. my question is, can I metal cast mechanical parts for combination, or it will be hard to the details.
So my side experiment is using a water based binder, metal powder and freezing the mixture in a mold (which can have very fine details). It needs more work... but the idea is that it could be a safer way to _cast_ metals since there's no pouring liquid metal and very repeatable since the molds are reusable
