I thought they burned out or that you made them 560 amps, but it's just the obese version of the 280 Ah cells, which are fatter but have less energy. 😂
@@WEEKENDER4X4Thanks for your feedback. In regards to being careful due to rapid inflation. Would l be correct in saying, if you set the pressure cutoff, you won’t need to be too careful with the rapid inflation quickly over inflating a bike tyre or anything with a low air volume?
Thanks for doing this experiment. I suspect many would just throw out swollen cells. Obviously they can still be OK, if the terminals are not destroyed by the tight bus bars.
hey mate, thanks for the video. Do you know what the four pins on the actuator are? I am having issue, my driver side's actuator seems to be dead. I am trying to bench test it.
I just randomly came across this video for my late night viewing. Interesting, thank you (and sorry to hear about your losses). I was just wondering if you ever did a video on our BMS? If there's anything I can help with, please let me know. Thanks, Ruben
Nice setup. Did you consider going 24v or 36v? What about solar charge capability? Will there be ventilation ports/fans? You also must insulate all exposed +12V connections to prevent accidental short circuits - very important.
The best thing about Kings is that they have bricks and mortar shops . This helps enormously if you have any warranty problems . Much greater piece of mind than purchasing from some eBay drop shipper at an unknown address.. Ask me how i know.😢
Does any camera works with the garmin overlander as a reverse camera or is there some specific cameras? And if i need a specific camera can you tell me which one?
Hey mate that jvm upgrade just doesn't sound right to me. I noticed you said you've done the springs and Tower bracing well have you considered the actual axle load limits of the patrol
3000VA Victron couldnt run our 2200W hoist, we figured based on calulation we would need around 3700VA but tried anyay as we already have the Victron inverter. I'm wondering if something as budget as this would likey do the job - your thoughts?
@chrisbaker4x4 I would say it's the in rush current required for the initial start of the hoist when under load. To combat this you can get "soft start" ebay parts installed in line which can make you able to run almost any bigger items. Also depends on the size of your battery bank? If it's not able to sustain the voltage the inverter will immediately cut out.
When i got my 4 x 304 Ah EVE cells, i charged it first wired in series with 16A and stopped it when one cell reaches 3,6 V, reduced the current to 3A and secondly stopped when the regarding cell reaches the end voltage again. And finally i charged each cell separate with my RC charger at 10 A and all cells are now balanced and finally i did a load test for calibrating the BMS with connecting a vacuum cleaner through an inverter. I leave my battery bank now for 24h as it and tomorrow evening it is ready for all. Greetings from Vienna, Austria.
@@WEEKENDER4X4 all good haha. I meant like a ground to body or chassis on the car. So like the Victron distributor has a ground connection which I've seen people run a cable from that to the car chassis or body. Doesn't make sense to me as why it's needed.
@newylyf7481 grounding to the body isn't necessary if you have enough cable to run the whole way to the battery negative. If you're on a budget and don't have enough space for fat cables running through the interior to the battery, grounding to the body is fine. As long as your main earth coming off the battery to chassis/body is clean and appropriately sized.
We just bought 4 x 200ah batteries to run our off grid house. Pretty pleased with the. Only need them to last 5 years till we get a much bigger system. But for now kings is good enough
The best part is there's so many supa centres now if anything went wrong in the warranty period you'd get given a new one and then the warranty starts all over again. Can't really beat that.
@perkypat2214 currently running 4 main LED lights in garage, all the chargers for battery tools, computer, eftpos machine, 2180w steamer I use for work on and off, plus heat gun, and also anything else that needs power in the garage. For a while I was running TV and surround sound system aswell but the solar couldn't keep up on rainy days. (This is for my off grid build video of the trailer toolbox setup)
My only concern with the 100ah is that it appears to have pouch cells inside .. where the 120ah has prismatic cells .. So I'm unsure if there would be any real differences in them .. Your imput on that would be most welcome..
Yea pouch cells have a smaller shelf life than the prismatic cells. But so far with the battery I have been testing at my mother's house it's been going strong without issues for over 6months so far. Will do capacity test on it in another 6 months (Not the kings battery) it's a gokwh battery with pouch cells. Basically same construction as the kings ones
Not all the blue tops are the same, the 60ah blue top the short circuit protection is permanent 😂 once they get shorted or anything over 80a the bms cuts off and doesnt recover. So you could say the over current protection is also a fail. I think the bms acts more like a fuse. I decided i still want the one that failed on me recently so ive just ordered a 100a jk bms to put in it this week. The 120a blue tops also seem to be all over the place, i have two that are 4s, 130ah tested. I also have one bought a week earlier of a different batch and its 8 cells in series parallel. Im definitely interested to see whats inside the 60ah, my bet is that its the same cells that are in the 8 cell version of the 120ah i have, but only 4 of them. The 60ah ive had 3 of now and all tested at 65-67ah so they do the job, just a crap bms
Looks like all the blue top lithium’s are reasonably good quality as is your 3000w inverter. Should hit kings up for a discount code for your viewers courtesy of their product testing.
In regards to off grid systems in caravans/vehicles - seeming a live chassis from faulting appliance can kill you without a protective device, using a portable RCVO plugged into the 240v output will protect, but because there's no earth to ground, YOU will be it. This should cause the RCBO to trigger but ut could be too late.. If you installed an earth stake from inverter chasis it was have tripped without you in circuit. Just a friendly reminder to all that 240v is 240v, it's dangerous and without a protective device or ground you're dicing with death
That's actually not correct. In mains power the neutral is earthed - there is no neutral coming into your house so earth is actually the final path of a circuit back to the power station. In a floating system like off grid, earth is not the return path to the source. You can get a shock from the capacitance to earth but you need to touch both active and neutral to be in the circuit. The earth is to stabilise the system in an off grid setup
After watching your reviews on the Kings batteries I bought the 120Ah and 300Ah units and am very happy with their functionality. I recently also bought a 120Ah Rock LiFePO4 and a 24V serial balancer as other channels have shown the possibility of adding different brand batteries in series. Time will tell. Does the cheapy 40A charger actually pump 40A when pushed?
@@WEEKENDER4X4 I was replying to TheRenoir, he has a 120Ah battery from Rock. A company selling on eBay. I’ve been tempted to get one of their 24v batteries but I cant find any real-world reviews of them yet.
This is a very valuable mistake. The public needed this video. I'm glad I found it. I'm in rhe process of building a battery, and people all over the internet just regurgitate myths and methods without real world data. I have some decommissioned Tesla LFP cells that were intentionally slow discharged to 0.50v everyone said the cells were trash, and would never hold a charge. I decided to slow charge at 5v 3.5a until the cells reached 3.4v. they held the charge, and I'm in the process of putting together 7 x 163ah batteries. Real world data is always best.
I have some swollen 105Ah cells (caused by multiple times of deep discharing) - but they are perfoming well too. I take care of my 280Ah cells (i have eve, rept, higee). Eve cells have more than 800 cycles and they are still above 300Ah.
I purchased one of those watt meters from AutoBarn and mine does the same every time I’ve used to to test discharge or charging it stops at 65ah every time and won’t measure anymore than 65ah charge or discharge.
I just use my Victron Shunt now for discharge tests. My 120ah and 300ah king’s batteries have all produced more AH than the stated capacity in my testing.
Do you know how to find the batch number? My 300ah started to bulge up the top and it is slowly losing charge by itself. They have asked for a picture of the batch number on the battery but I can't find it??
