My house has blown in installation where it was blown all the way to the edge, covering any venting. I've tried using a long shovel and a rake but can't reach far enough to clear it out. I'll give this method a try (though I'm afraid the second I take off a soffit cover, a crap ton of insulation is going to fall in my face. Wonder if I can clear it back into the attic using a leaf blower from the outside)
Many times there is blocking put between the rafters on top of the wall plate that stops insulation from pouring out. just seperate a couple pieces of soffit and check it out. Good luck!
I deal with poorly vented attics often. This is the best way.. a wooden dowel or broom stick with one or two screws in the end of it will allow you to reach the insulation from inside the attic and use the same stick to slide the baffles into place. You’re welcome.
Personally It's not about how good you are It's about how much passion and heart you put into playing and It's obvious how much you have put into this. Beautifully done!
Was advised by inspector and energy consultant to install this ones as well in purchased house, cause insulation touched roof and block air movement. Bought a pack, and some extra to cover all roof. Tried to install from inside, with small hot space, insulation dust and sticking nails. Destroyed 4 board, installed 3 in 4 hours.... Now looking for better way to do it...
Yeah mine was full of them too, sticking out about 1/4'' from decking. Having the piece of gutter or 2x4 allows you to pull the front down away from the decking and slide it in without totally catching on the nails. Few tares here and there but no biggy. Worked fairly well. But yeah if you have a tonne of them and they stick out far it's gonna be tough. Maybe get a long thin piece of plastic or tin or something to put in with it (between vent and nails), something that will slide across the bottom of the nails, then pull it out after? I'm sure there is something that could make it easier
Hope you had your ladder tied off. I can’t imagine doing all that rocking and shifting up there and the bottom gives out on that ladder. That would really suck. Too bad you don’t have a person helping in the inside of the attic at the same time that would help as well as someone outside handing you stuff so you don’t have to go up and down and up and up did I mention up and down LOL🆙
Yeah, I don't mind the up and down, all good :) After this one the rest went smooth.. person on the inside would be nice... but pretty crappy for the buddy on the inside!
I might try a 1x2 stapled at top with 3-4 staples instead of tape, then when in place I’ll twist the 1x2 90 degrees fast so the staples break free... ? But , thx for the idea !
These baffles are meant to work with a ridge vent - I'm no pro here but this is my understanding. You can have the gable vents with a ridge vent but it's not as effective at all. The other option if you've ruled out baffle/eve venting are those 'whirlybird' rigs
Thanks for the vid Adam. I had this idea for a week now and came here to see if anyone else had done it. Glad I'm not crazy :) Our house was built in 1970 and the insulation is in good condition..but it's the original type that's itchy as heck. With our 3-12 pitch roof its almost impossible for me to get that close to the soffit from the inside.
so here I am just 3 hours after watching this video and I have already installed 6 baffles. Truth be told I have bungalow.. much easier access to soffits :) I used a sheet of 1/8 fiberboard 22" W and 36" long. I slipped this between the roofing nails and the fiberglass. I then slipped the baffle in between while pushing the fiberglass down and bingo bango! Slip the board out and onto the next. Not saying Adam's way isn't good or that mine is better.. you use what you have on hand and every situation is different. As an extra bonus to doing this from the outside, you can see just how large of area is NOT insulated. You can even see the sill (kinda) and you take take a little extra time to seal the sill and add extra insulation as I did. Winning! ;)
Thanks MaCoeur. If you can't find other baffles that would work, you could use these same baffles and just cut an inch or two off each side so it fits. Not idea but would likely work okay
These baffles are used for both 16" and 24" o.c. rafters. For 16", you break them down the middle (perforation line) and use half for each joist bay. Don't think you could use the gutter hack though.
@@TicoTimeCR Someone just dropped a few similar baffles off for me...I still think I'll have to improvise though, since cutting them in half will eliminate the center channel that would be used to push it into place.
The gutter idea is great. I've got knee walls and need to go up about five feet to get some ventilation and cool the upstairs. Glad to see I can push this stuff through the batt insulation and into the upper area to vent out.
Most modern soffits don't have vents, they use perforated vinyl panels for the whole soffit, so the more baffle vents the better, I say - although there is a formula to figure out the minimum number of baffles needed based on square footage of attic. I would use that formula before going with the 'one baffle per soffit vent' rule.. as you don't know if the previous owner installed the right amount of soffit vents in the first place. One house I owned had wood board covering the soffit with just a couple vents in it. I tore that all down and put perforated vinyl in. They didn't take attic ventilation very seriously 60 years ago.
I have twice the fun on a 2 stroke. Not sure why.. maybe the sound, the smell, the crazy throttle response, all of the above.. but I just don't get as excited about 4stroke bikes
Hm, my manual calls them sub port values - they open to allow exhaust into the kips resonator. Transfer ports connect the crankcase to the cylinder - pumping in fresh fuel mixture on the down stroke.
I'm seriously considering this method when I do my house this year. I noticed you didn't staple the pink baffle to the sides of the trusses and I realize it's nearly impossible to reach that far in. Do you think that will be a problem in future or are you relying on the height of the insulation to keep them up in between the trusses?
I actually went in my attic to staple the upper ends of the vents but found that I didn't need to. If you have a good amount of insulation in the attic, the insulation keeps the vent pressed fairly firm against the roof decking
Thanks man. That's going to help me big time this summer when I do my house. I have those garbage styrofoam ones you had and you're right, they're useless.
@@JoeMama-qk1hl I'm going to let you solve this one for yourself, and leave you with a hint that there are multiple millions of cities/municipalities on the earth. I suppose you would also like to tell me my name can't be Adam, because you know an Adam that lives down your street.
Did you take down an aluminum soffit to get access to the attic? If so, I assume you had to bend the aluminum facia out/down to get the soffit material out. And if so, how did it go bending that aluminum facia back to a 90 degree angle to hold up the soffit? Thanks!
Hi Ann - my soffit was perforated vinyl, not aluminum. I didn't have to bend the fascia metal - I put flat chisel tool (a flat screwdriver may work) between the soffit and the 90 degree bend, then just flexed the metal down and away until that part of the soffit popped out. From there you can just pull at the soffit to get a large piece out.. using your tool to flex the fascia metal away where necessary. You have to use that technique for each piece of soffit. The hardest part is dealing with the nails on the soffit joists .. some soffits are nailed on really well and it can be a major PITA to pry them off.
unburnt oil (spooge) is normal. Too much of it can indicate a problem with jetting.. I would google 'spooge kdxrider.net', you will find everything you need to know.
Hey bud, go to the E-Line site and look for a guard that fits the model of your pipe. For instance, FMF pipes have model numbers and the site says what guards fit what models. You could also email them with the model and they may tell you something that fits. I know they used to make one that fits stock as well as the two fmf pipes available for the kdx. Mine came with the pipe.
Where is this exactly? I’m going to be doing a job in Marysville in two weeks and we’re bringing the bikes... I know they have that track there but we would like to do some trail riding too. You feel like taking us on a tour? We are pretty good riders also...
Hey dude, I'm out of commission for the season, so no tours from me right now. We started here and just explored : www.google.ca/maps/place/45°59'04.2"N+66°35'03.7"W/@45.98449,-66.5865617,608m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m14!1m7!3m6!1s0x4ca41933d83e1d23:0x35c7c49eef83c0a9!2sFredericton,+New+Brunswick+E3A+4A8!3b1!8m2!3d45.9944812!4d-66.579933!3m5!1s0x0:0x0!7e2!8m2!3d45.9844899!4d-66.5843726
No worries man. Thanks for the location! Did you guys just park right by that church? And is it safe to ride out there from cops or other crazies?? Thanks bro!
No worries man. Hey those coordinates you sent me were in Maine LOL. Where is a good place to park and ride from? And is it safe from police and crazy people to ride dirt bikes out there? Thanks for the info man!
I have a 97 kdx200 and I don't really know how to get the kips timing correct. Any helpers you could give me ? At low rpm should the sub valves be open or closed? As of right now they are open at no rpm . I have my cylinder of bcuz my power valve wasn't work at all.
Closed. Meaning that they are not directing exhaust flow out to your pipe, but rather out to the small resonator chamber you have on the LHS of your bike (silver cover with 'KIPS' written on it). Here is an animation. www.justkdx.dirtrider.net/images/kipsvalves.gif
the part that's cooking my brain is how the way you taped it looks like you'd pull the baffle back out. i don't see how it came loose if you taped it over like that
I could have explained that better. The tape rips off the portion of the baffle that it's stuck to. When I pull the gutter out you can see a little 2'' part of the baffle stuck to the tape. So there is nothing really clever about the way I taped it i guess
If I was having this issue with my 98', I would start by cleaning the carb, making sure it's jetted properly, clean air filter, and also verifying that the kips is working (see my video on testing the kips). The kdx changed a lot around 95'. You may want to post this on kdxrider.net to get more specific advice.
Thanks for an technique that should prove helpful to many. In my case, the eaves were already boarded over and the metal outside vents were too small to slip those fragile pink baffles into place without damaging them. Approach the vents from the inside had a different glitch. It was extremely difficult to get close enough to slip those baffles into place and staple them to rafters, particularly given the roofing nails sticking down about an inch. Making matters worse, for part of my attic, a cathedral ceiling left even less space to slip into to get to those eaves. I thought of getting my 12-year-old grand-nephew to do it, but I don't think even he could have fit in. The fix proved so easy, I kicked myself for not thinking of it earlier. Simply staple those baffles to a couple of long 1x2-inch or so lengths of wood. Those two sticks make slipping the baffles into place far easier and there was no need to staple the baffles to the rafters. At the top, I hammered two nails into the rafters and stretched a cord between them to hold the baffle+sticks in place. Since nothing is stapled down, it is also easily adjusted. I went with 8-foot strips of wood and two baffles partly because those baffles do help with directing the flow of hot air upward, but primarily because that meant I was much further out from the eaves and working in a space about 4 feet high. It's worth the few dollars those wood strips cost to avoid the lying across rafters on my belly and those roofing nails.
Great Michael, glad that worked for you. In my previous house, like yours, my eaves were boarded over. I tore the board out (better air flow), installed the baffle vents and put in perforated vinyl soffit. I also found that I didn't have to staple many of the vents to the decking/sheathing from the inside afterwards - if you have a good amount of insulation in the attic, once you press the vent up in, the insulation keeps the vent pressed pretty hard against the decking.
You're right.. it's still foam. It's a better product in every way, however. I've installed them several times in the past and they seem to do the trick.
